Harry Potter Studio Tours - 2027

 Tickets are now available through December, 2027. This is one of our favorite experiences when you've overloaded on London. It does require a bit of planning, but it's not difficult. If you've visited London a time or two and are a fan of things Harry Potter, this should be in your wheelhouse.

Read my previous post for fairly detailed instructions on how to get to Watford Junction/Leavesden from London.

Harry Potter 25th Anniversary

 

On May 7th Warner Brothers Studios - Leavesden, will introduce a new program celebrating the 25th Anniversary of the release of Harry Potter and the Philosipher's Stone.

Enjoy a new show explaining the secrets of sound effects, as well as demonstrations of the magic used to film quiddich matches and other flying scenes in the series. You'll also be able to experience Wizard's Chess on the same scale that Harry, Ron, and Hermione played before Quirrel met his demise.

As I've previously reported, this tour is one of the best entertainment-based presentations I've ever experienced. If you have plans to be anywhere close to the metro London area, I strongly suggest making time to catch a train to Watford Junction to visit the studios at Leavesden.

Reminder - tickets must be booked prior to your arrival!

Full details on the First Year at Hogwarts can be found here.

In die Schweiz gehen

24 March, 2025

(Going to Switzerland)

"The" message

It all started innocently enough, a simple text exchange one summer afternoon. The idea took root over the next couple of weeks, an itinerary was selected and deposits made. In the blink of an eye we were looking at flight arrangements and hotels, travel insurance, annual weather trends, and things to do before and after the cruise.

This was monumental for us. We'd been together almost 40 years and had never vacationed with anyone other than family for more than two or three days at a time. The idea of taking a trip to Europe with good friends for three weeks was equally exciting and scary. 

Julia and I have known each other since fifth grade at Tileston School, two years longer than I've known my wife (who I met in seventh grade.) The three of us graduated high school together, then Brent and I were at NCSU at the same time, but never met. Careers and growing families kept us separated until our late 30's when we reconnected while planning a class reunion. Since then our friendship has grown far beyond anything I might have imagined. Together we've seen children married, grandchildren born, parents die, and been incredible support systems in times of life-threatening illness. We all communicate incredibly well. Always kind, but open and honest – often discovering that we were thinking the same thing before the conversation even started. Our concerns ended up being mutual, and discussing them at the outset obviated them entirely.

To the Airport!

Planning gives me great satisfaction. Assembling an itinerary and organizing the specifics of what's going on when provides a dopamine release. I'm pretty sure it's related to a primitive urge to make lists. Assembling lists from lists provided by others and then editing them down to a master itinerary was pure bliss.

We studied flights of every permutation we could conceive. Multiple departure cities, arrival cities, dates (on both ends) – you name it, we probably considered it. Ultimately we booked an itinerary that had both of us departing home within an hour of each other and meeting at JFK to continue the trip, ultimately arriving in Basel (not Zurich) BUT with an eight hour layover in London. Considering the tickets were Business Class for 57,500 miles and $22.70 in fees each, the time investment in London (which came with lounge access) was trivial. More direct/time efficient itineraries were double the miles and 20x the fees. 

As the saying goes "No plan survives first contact with the enemy" and our plans were not immune. A couple of weeks before departure I was informed that our flights had been changed and we'd miss the connection in JFK, putting us in London several hours behind Brent & Julia. 

After several hours unsuccessfully wrangling the American Airlines website ("You can make changes on our website" was never a less accurate statement.) I ended up on the phone, which was only slightly less painful. Ultimately we wer re-booked to London via Charlotte, with a slightly earlier departure from home, arriving at Heathrow just ten minutes later than our original flight.

Other than a small glitch at check-in (the phone rep I spoke with did not, as she stated "have everything fixed") which was handled quickly and efficiently by the agent with a short phone call, our flights were uncomplicated and service was excellent.

The Admiral's Club in Charlotte was packed, but we secured comfortable seats to wait out our two hour layover before heading to our gate for boarding. We departed in a rain shower and enjoyed a mostly-smooth flight all the way to London.

Everyone even managed a bit of sleep.

Amsterdam to London

Not actually Eddie

    Arrival and disembarkation from our Baltic cruise in Amsterdam was, to borrow a phrase, "quick and painless." If I were forced to lodge a complaint it would only be for the space and comfort on the bus for the transfer from pier to airport. The shore-side staff was polite and efficient, luggage was handled with minimal effort, and directions and signage for the transfer were well-placed and clearly presented.

    Our flight to Heathrow from Schiphol didn't present any challenges, and Eddie Manning had someone waiting for us at arrivals to whisk us away to The Harrington. While trying to avoid the appearance of sloth, I don't know any other way to say that the check-in process was quick and painless, just as it has been each and every time we've arrived.

Pricey, but so good!

    After getting organized and freshening up we made our way to Burger & Lobster for a late lunch/early dinner (of course I had the lobster roll, I find it nearly impossible to order anything else!) This time we tried the Knightsbridge location in Harvey Nichols. After eating at no less than four locations, the only difference between any of them is the decor and the geography. (Which, obviously, is what you would expect.)

    A quick tube ride and a short walk found us back at The Hereford Arms for a couple of beers before calling it a day. While the day wasn't particularly long, the last night of a cruise rarely results in satisfying sleep, and we had been moving steadily since early in the morning. After a couple of Guinnesses we decided to turn in, since we had a full day planned for Monday.

Baltic Cruise - Copenhagen to Amsterdam

8 August - Cruising the Baltic

After departing Stockholm we enjoyed a quiet night at sea. Early in the cruise our headwaiter chose to complain to our table in a rather gratuitous manner.  While we weren't the catalyst for his diatribe, those at our table who were the focus of his unnecessary outburst were quite uncomfortable. I reached out to Royal Caribbean that evening and the next morning I had a request from the Restaurant Manager for a meeting. We shared a coffee and had an excellent conversation as I explained that my concern was the display of behavior from a member of management that I'd never experienced in over 20 cruises, which indicated to me that perhaps this individual was facing a situation that he wasn't handling well and needed some support. The result of that conversation was a complimentary visit to Chops, which is how we spent our evening. While I'm partial to the steaks I cook at home, the staff at Chops is a good bit nicer than having to rely on self-service.

9 August - Copenhagen, Denmark 

Rosenborg Castle

Looking for an overview of a new city, we chose the Hop-On-Hop-Off bus to survey Copenhagen. The route provided several opportunities to "Hop Off" and walk several blocks before a "Hop On" to get closer to another area. Our first stop provided a pleasant walk through the gardens and grounds of Rosenborg Castle. Entry lines were quite long, so we didn't take a tour of the castle or see the crown jewels due to the limited amount of time we had in-port. We were able to enjoy the sculptures and gardens, which were in full bloom. The longest part of our walk was along a shaded esplanade and there was just enough breeze to make the park benches exceptionally tempting. I'm certain a conveniently placed hammock would have been irresistible. The weather was spectacular and a bit warmer than expected, so after our walk through the gardens we located a grocery store on Google Maps along our route to the next bus stop. We ventured through a generally tidy residential area, located the store without incident, and navigated a successful beverage purchase without use of English (or Danish, for that matter!) thanks to a large digital cash-register display. 

Nyhavn

Sufficiently rehydrated, we continued on to Nyhavn, which fulfilled the promise of a bustling tourist area. The sidewalks were filled with restaurant seating, overlooked by friendly and attentive servers. Umbrellas and tents provided ample shade for a comfortable meal. Nyhavn was once a bustling port and the commercial center of the city. The colorful buildings and boat-filled canal remain as the backdrop of a bustling modern commercial center, albeit focused on tourism and restaurants instead of the import and export of goods.

Lunch

For reasons unknown, I was overcome with a strong urge to try a traditional Danish lunch ofcured/smoked/pickled fish. This was even more unusual considering I'm not known as an "adventurous" eater, but none the less I held course and ordered a sampler platter of sorts, consisting of several types of fish with an assortment of cheeses, breads, picked vegetables, and crackers. Some of the fish selections were a bit challenging in both texture and flavor profile, but everything was, from a technical standpoint "good." (This distinction is important to me, as I make an effort to distinguish between things I don't care for and things that are truly "bad.") The experience was interesting, even enlightening, but not one I think I'll ever repeat. A delightful local beer, rich and malty, definitely improved the overall dining experience.

After we finished our lunch we walked a few blocks to a Ho-Ho stop, cutting off a loop of the tour, to make our way back to the ship. Our bus ride took us past Christiana, a district established by squatters on an abandoned military base in 1971. The area first gained notoriety as the center for open cannabis trade along "Pusher Street" – which was only recently shut down by residents with the assistance of law enforcement after a surge in gang violence. It was getting late in the day so we opted to stay on the bus and just observe from a distance, but the aroma of the "Green Light District" was quite noticeable, even at a distance. The ride back to the port was relaxing, thanks to having ample time, comfortable temperatures, and smooth roads. Just down from the ship we visited the iconic Little Mermaid statue. The initial impression is a bit underwhelming, but after having a moment to take it all in, the elegant simplicity of the sculpture really brings it to life. In my opinion this is definitely one site that should be on your "must see" list when in Copenhagen.

The Little Mermaid

8/10 - Cruising

North Sea

Leaving Copenhagen we headed north, towards the North Sea. We woke to some rather "nautical" conditions, which persisted until late in the day. The pool was a whirlpool and the solarium deck was awash with water splashing out. A few brave(?) souls ventured a swim throughout the day, at the risk of life and limb. 

We spent the day at a table in the Solarium, sipping drinks, reading, napping, listening to music, and snacking while we watched the world roll by.

Late afternoon was occupied with the worst part of any cruise, the packing. Somehow we managed to get everything in suitcases and, miraculously, kept them all under the airline limits!

Deserted Dining

The dining room was a ghost town in the evening, thanks to the sea conditions. With the light load of diners the staff was milling about for most of the meal and many had tables reset for the next meal.

We enjoyed a great meal, with as much as we wanted of whatever we wanted, served by staff who were nearly dedicated to our table.

As is our tradition on the last night of a cruise we found a spot in a lounge with good music and enjoyed our last drinks. 

Without any idea of what to expect at disembarkation the next morning we turned in early and put our suitcases in the hallway.

8/11 - Disembark

Our flight from Amsterdam to London was late enough that we opted for the RCCL provided airport shuttle. One last breakfast in the dining room (Eggs Benedict, in case you were curious) and we were off the ship, luggage collected, and on the bus in a matter of a few minutes. 

To Amsterdam

Had we known at the time that it would be the last "big trip" for such a long time we might have done some things a bit differently, but I can't imagine what that might be.

As the flights worked out it made more sense for us to fly round-trip to London, with a separate round-trip  from London to Amsterdam for the cruise. We departed July 25 on our way to London, arriving the morning of the 26th. Based on the brief nature of our London stopover we opted to stay at the Hilton Heathrow - Terminal 5.

Our flights were pleasantly uneventful and we managed a fair bit of rest despite our economy seats. The food was unremarkable, which is to say it wasn't horrible, nor was it worthy of praise. We passed through immigration without incident and made our usual stop at M&S Simply Food for a "useful" snack to help fill the gaps created by schedule fluctuations.

We stumbled our way to the hotel shuttle (The Hotel Hoppa) and were whisked off to the Hilton in quick order. Check-in was seamless and we were quickly in our room, showered, and down for a nap.

Dinner that evening was with our good friends, the Fergusons, at one of our London favorites, The White Horse (aka The Sloaney Pony to locals.)

Transport from the Hilton to Parson's Green was a bit more convoluted than anticipated. 

The shuttle from the hotel back to the terminal, where we could hop on the Piccadilly Line, took longer than expected, then the District Line from Earl's Court to Parson's Green was experiencing delays. Rather than wait out the delays we headed to the curb and I ordered an Uber to cover the last leg of the trip.

While I have no recollection of what I ate, I can say that if it was at the White Horse it was, at worst, quite good. More than likely it was excellent. The company, as always, was excellent, and I enjoyed a few pints of proper ale.

We stayed entirely too late, anchored by good conversation with wonderful people, yet the night ended much too soon. Still suffering from jet lag we made our way back to Heathrow, where we discovered the shuttle was no longer running, and ended up springing for a cab ride since the route was far from pedestrian-friendly. We collapsed in to bed and slept fairly soundly, given the disruptions of time-zone bingo.

The next morning, 27 July, we grabbed a satisfactory full English breakfast in the hotel restaurant before heading back to the terminal to catch our flight to Amsterdam.

Check-in with British Airways for the final leg of our journey to Amsterdam was the epitome of British efficiency, as was our security screening. There was a short delay for boarding at the gate, but otherwise the trip was uneventful and we arrived in Amsterdam within a few minutes of our published arrival time.

We arrived at the Hilton Doubletree mid-afternoon to discover a lobby littered with suitcases and what appeared to be a couple of large tour groups waiting for rooms. A promise from the desk clerk that our room would be ready quickly, and we'd be alerted with a text, sent us off to the hotel restaurant for a snack and a beverage. Time waiting was well-spent investigating potential dinner venues. After well over an hour with no update on our room I returned to the hotel desk and was met with sincere apologies and a room key.

Another short Uber ride had us at the door of Bickers aan de Werf, without even a hint of a reservation.

The proprietor was kind and incredibly accommodating, offering us a delightful table overlooking the water and bringing us noshes and water while we perused the menu.

We chose two different fish dishes and a ridiculously tasty and equally affordable bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. We proceeded to have a relaxing evening under cool, clear skies, watching boat traffic pass by.  The summer months, combined with the northern latitudes, provide an extended twilight that seemed to help with the time zone adjustment. 

July 28: A surprisingly sound night's sleep had us up and about, ready to explore the city. We completely missed the mark on tickets for the Anne Frank Huis, so we sought out other highlights to enjoy, with stroopwafels high on the list!

As is the case with most of us who don't live in bicycle-centric communities, there was an initial learning curve concerning the "weird sidewalks and paths" which was short and, thankfully, incident free. Having visited Munich a few times previously we weren't oblivious - it's just one of those things you don't think of until you hear the distinctive "ring-ring" warning of an approaching bicycle. A quick leap to the safety of the sidewalk (from the bike path you were strolling down in your ignorant bliss) is a reminder that you're not in Kansas any more, and resets your awareness. For the duration of your stay you become expert at pedestrian/bicycle etiquette and even assist the occasional clueless tourist in navigating the system.

Since we were in Amsterdam it was obvious that we needed to search out the local delicacy, and we wanted to find the "best of the best" if we were going to indulge ourselves. We googled (it's a verb to me) where to go, we asked locals, and, as we closed in on our intended destination, we asked anyone walking past holding a wrapper with a "dazed and glazed" expression if it was, in fact, the best stroopwafel they ever tasted.

vanWonderen is a small, cramped corner shop that offers different sizes, an assortment of toppings, and not much other than the most delicate and delicious pastries I've ever tasted.

Each wafer-thin stroopwafel is freshly cooked, then sliced in half longitudinally using some form of ancient magic and a blade honed by dwarven metalsmiths. After making this impossible slice the cut sides are coated with your choice of spread (caramel is traditional) and then dipped and coated with toppings, if you like. I opted for the traditional simplicity of a plan stroopwafel with caramel spread. Lourie opted for a bit of chocolate topping with a sprinkling of chopped nuts. Both were absolutely delicious!

We spent the rest of the day walking the canals, looking at shops, and enjoying the incredible weather before heading back to the hotel and getting dressed for dinner. When I started researching things to do in Amsterdam I read a snippet about a small restaurant that held a Michelin Star. As I discovered more about the restaurant I learned that the chef's philosophy was that good food should not be outrageously expensive, it should be attainable by those of average means. A recent review describes Restaurant LaStage perfectly; 

"This cosy restaurant is the destination for unpretentious food where simplicity is turned into a marvel."

We were greeted by a delightful hostess and led to a table at the center rail of the balcony, overlooking the entirety of the modestly-sized dining room and just above the kitchen. Our server introduced herself and inquired about food allergies and aversions. We opted for the tasting menu, which was modified for Lourie to accommodate the dietary restrictions imposed by her transplant status, with the wine pairings. 

We proceeded to have an absolutely stunning meal with an assortment of wines I had only read about prior to this evening. The ingredients were as unfamiliar as the wines, but even the most startling presentations were tasty, if not amazing. After nearly three hours we reached the end of the menu; sated, impressed, and thoroughly stunned by the creativity and quality we just experienced. With an eight course tasting menu priced at €125 and complete wine pairings at about €100 (pours are generous, and if you find one to be a particular favorite a polite request will almost certainly deliver an additional glass) it is an absolute bargain. 

The service was impeccable, the meal was elegant, and the atmosphere was relaxed and unpretentious. If you consider yourself a foodie of any degree and are planning a trip to Amsterdam I highly recommend a visit. It's an opportunity to expand your culinary scope in a highly-rated restaurant without breaking the bank.

On our last day in Amsterdam we enjoyed a nice breakfast at the hotel, then enjoyed a casual stroll to the embarkation point for our canal cruise. Our cruise with Flagship Amsterdam docked just in front of the Anne Frank Huis, making it easy to locate. The cost was about €20 per person, and they offered a bar on the boat with a la carte pricing.

The guides were friendly and informative, providing insights and knowledge without making it seem as if you were on a floating lecture. I'm ashamed to admit that I don't recall the details and trivia they shared. When we return in 2025 I fully intend to repeat the tour and make a few notes to go along with my photos.

We grabbed a quick bite for dinner and spent the evening re-packing in preparation of joining the cruise ship the next morning.

On 30 July we took an Uber to the cruise terminal, just a few blocks away, and experienced one of the most efficient boarding processes ever. In almost 30 years of cruising this was the first time we ever "walked on" to a ship. From curbside to setting foot on the ship was less than 15 minutes. While taking a cruise out of Amsterdam is a bit of a production, the process itself could not be simpler!

2017 New Years Eve Fireworks in London

Tickets for the 2017 New Years Eve Fireworks in London are now on sale!

The only way to enter one of the riverside viewing areas is to have tickets. Check out the details at www.london.gov.uk/nye - tickets are £10 each and individuals may purchase a maximum of four. If you're planning to visit London for New Year's it is well worth the effort required. Make sure you select to pick up your tickets at the Trafalgar Square booth if you don't have a UK address for mail delivery, as there is no guarantee that you'll receive them via mail in the USA prior to your departure.

Breaking News - Oct 14 - Fireworks on the Thames!

Tickets for the 2016 New Years Eve Fireworks in London went on sale October 21. I'm still receiving emails, so it would appear that tickets are still available, but I wouldn't expect them to last much longer! The only way to enter one of the riverside viewing areas is to have tickets. Check out the details at www.london.gov.uk/nye - tickets are £10 each and individuals may purchase a maximum of four. If you're planning to visit London for New Year's it is well worth the effort required. Make sure you select to pick up your tickets at the Trafalgar Square booth if you don't have a UK address for mail delivery, as there is no guarantee that you'll receive them via mail in the USA prior to your departure.

Sort of a Holiday, but don't tell!

Our son graduated from college in the spring and intends to attend law school next year. With undergraduate degrees in Political Science and German he's considering various options for future employment, from corporate attorney to diplomatic/government service. Having recognized that there are countless numbers of people who apply to law school immediately after earning undergraduate degrees he began to seek out a program that would strengthen his credentials and provide some separation from the average applicant. He located a program in London and is now working towards an MA in International Relations.

Of course, being good parents, we couldn't just pack up a couple of suitcases and send him off on his own. We "needed" to make sure he was settled in properly, so we accompanied him across the pond as any good parents would. (In case you were wondering, this is where it would be proper for you to applaud our sacrifice.)

He applied and was accepted during the winter, so I started investigating travel options around mid-
April. Airfares were a bit more expensive than last fall, which I found curious, so I adopted a wait-and-see approach, checking various sites approximately weekly. Pricing remained fairly stagnant, then the Brexit vote happened and the prices on Virgin Atlantic fell significantly. This was the first time I considered Virgin for air travel, but it definitely won't be the last, more on that later.

I quickly consulted calendars and schedules, did the usual calculus of airfare pricing vs. the cost of an additional night or two, factored in some adjustment time prior to check-in at school, allowed for tracking down items that it simply didn't make sense to try and transport, such as dishes and cooking utensils, checked the opening times for a few attractions, consulted local friends, determined reasonable travel dates, outlined a plan, and booked our flights.

Having been to London several times prior we opted to rent a flat for this trip in the Kensington/Chelsea area. We've stayed in the neighborhood in the past and have friends who live nearby, so it made a lot of sense for us this trip since we'd be in town for over a week. The convenience of being able to fix breakfast ourselves as well as the occasional dinner after a long day can shave a significant amount from your food expenditures. An assortment of dining options in the neighborhood provide variety for unsettled appetites as well as choices to help keep budgets under control.

Hauling everything for a year took a bit of luggage, so I made arrangements with our favorite and ever-reliable car service, Eddie Manning, for our airport transfers. Unless you're traveling as a couple with very little luggage Eddie Manning is the best value I've ever found, especially when you're trying to navigate after an overnight flight.

Packing was reasonably methodical, with considered thought given to what was likely to be needed to survive a year in the remote wilderness of metropolitan London. How many suits? How many ties? Which shirts will make the cut and which ones will be left behind to languish in the closet for the year?

After an adventure in obtaining his student visa (which you can read about here) departure day arrived and we set out on yet another grand adventure. I will say, the new International terminal in Atlanta is as nice as I've visited and a pleasant place to start your journey abroad.

Hopping the Pond

22 December, 2015

We began our segment of an extended family vacation "today."  My Mom and younger sister departed for London a few days prior, now my family is going to join her and my older sister and her extended family will be arriving December 27. By a stroke of luck (and perhaps an anomaly created by the USAir-American Airlines merger) our overseas flight was PHL-LHR with a 10am departure and a 10pm arrival. Unfortunately it appears that this flight no longer exists on the schedule (or perhaps it's only offered on a seasonal basis.) In any case, arriving in the evening after a day of travel is much more enjoyable than arriving in the morning without being able to figure out which way is up. After clearing immigration and customs we stopped in at the M&S Simply Food to grab sandwiches instead of leaving to chance what we might be able to locate between the airport and the flat. Our ever-reliable and efficient driver, Eddie Manning, was waiting for us in the arrivals area and in short order had everything loaded in his van and we were on our way.

There are a few situations that I strongly recommend that you consider a car service for your airport transfer, assuming you're staying in London proper.

• You have a group larger than three. (A single van is more affordable than two taxis.)
• Your accommodations in London are not within a short walk of Paddington Station. (Heathrow Express is fairly convenient, but if you need a taxi on the other end the savings will likely evaporate.)
• Your luggage amounts to more than a single suitcase and personal item for each person. (Taxis have limited space and wrestling things aboard the train can be a challenge.)

These are just some of the most obvious situations. In our case we would have needed at least two taxis at approximately £60 each. Even with a modest fee for an additional errand before meeting us at the airport our quoted rate for a luxury van reflected a savings for a significantly higher level of service. When you consider that you also get to enjoy the company of an informed and knowledgable local during the drive you simply can't go wrong. Eddie delivered us to the flat, helped unload and placed all the luggage in the lobby of the flat.

Oh, the flat. What a stunning property in an absolutely phenomenal location! It took a good bit of searching to find, and a fair amount of effort to book, but it was definitely worth it in the long run. 9 Hertford Street is in the middle of Shepherd's Market, just a few minutes walk from the Green Park underground station one way and they Hyde Park station the other. Hard Rock Cafe London is just around the corner and there are several pubs and restaurants within just a couple of blocks of the front door. A convenience store is nearby for beverages and light snacks with Tesco Express and M&S Food just a little further. There's even a Sainsbury about seven blocks away where you can buy nearly anything you might need. It is just across Green Park from Buckingham Palace and a reasonable walk from other sites such as Westminster Abbey, the Banqueting House, and the Churchill War Rooms. Shopping is, at most, a short cab or tube ride away. Regent and Oxford Streets in one direction, Harrods in the other. They offer several single bedroom units and a single three bedroom unit. The three bedroom unit is an excellent value, assuming you will fill the bed space. We found it to be less expensive than a luxury hotel and only slightly more expensive than moderately priced hotels. When the savings are factored in for being able to prepare breakfasts and having snacks at hand I calculate, at worst, a break-even proposition when compared to moderate hotels. The amount of space is staggering, especially by London standards. Satellite television, WiFi and central HVAC are icing on the cake. The property management staff are as good as you'll ever find and provide exceptional service in every aspect imaginable. If you're in the market for luxury accommodation I give this property my highest endorsement. When you visit their website and look at the photographs rest assured that there isn't any trickery involved, they are a true representation of the property. It is truly magnificent.

First Day in London!

23 December, 2015

The late evening arrival the night before makes this morning much more civilized. While I completely understand the logistic advantages of overnight (redeye) flight schedules there is much to be said for traveling during your normal waking hours and arriving at a time that somewhat matches a "normal" bedtime.  The bread, butter, and jam we requested for the flat gives us a bit of something to eat before heading out to shop for additional provisions. Visiting the Borough Market is always an experience and this time we have a kitchen so we can purchase more than just a nibble here and a nibble there. Getting there is straightforward, take either the Northern or Jubilee lines on the Underground to the London Bridge station and look for the exit signs directing you to Borough Market. When you emerge at street level look for additional signage (you should be in front of a Nat West Bank on Southwark St, nearly at the corner of Stoney St. - go right on Stoney St. and you're at the edge of the market.)

                   

The market is a seemingly endless array of sensory overload. Some stalls are cooking ready-to-eat dishes for the lunch crowd that descends on a daily basis. Those not offering dishes are quick to provide samples that obviously pay huge dividends in the sales that result. The vast majority of products are artisanal or boutique production and the extra care and personal touch is apparent in the flavors, textures, and aromas that float before you. (Did I mention sensory overload?) By all means you should peruse the lunch vendors and have a bite to eat. Filling your belly will help somewhat to temper your urge to buy some of everything you sample. My personal preference are the Scotch Eggs, which I've found under the green tents that back up to the Southwark Cathedral. They are cooked on-site and served hot and fresh with greens and a bit of dressing. While I'm not a medical professional I'll guess that your cardiologist wouldn't recommend a steady diet of boiled egg cooked in a deep-fried meatball, but I don't think that a slight indulgence on an occasional basis is any more detrimental long-term than any number of other things that you're likely to consume more regularly.
My daughter says the noodle dishes (of somewhat nebulous Far-Eastern origin) are excellent as well.

In a rare stroke of brilliance we planned a flexible dinner, not knowing quite how jet lag was going to play in to the day. Burger & Lobster (which recently hopped the pond and opened a location in New York City) was an inspired choice. We had a bit of a wait (mitigated by their text-alert system) but it was completely manageable thanks to being just around the corner from the Kings Arms in Shepherd's Market, where we found pints and conversation with locals to pass the time. I've said it before and I'll probably say it many times in the future, but there's nothing quite like spending time in a British pub. Topics ranged from football (soccer) to the current Presidential election cycle. First hand reports indicate that the British think Trump is an absolute nut job, so if you're in need of an independent opinion, there you have it. When we were seated for dinner the first surprise was that there is no food menu. You are given a drink menu with a wide selection (and a full bar is available) but the food consists of three entrees: Burger, Grilled Lobster, and Lobster Roll. Everything is served with fries and a salad. I'll dispense with the suspenseful build up and just spill the beans up-front. Everything was well-prepared and delicious. Our party of six ended up with two of each entree and no one left anything on their plate. I will say that wrestling with the grilled lobster is probably the most challenging thing you'll face in London, but the burger and the lobster roll will have you reaching for additional napkins, so they're not without their own risks. It is definitely a place we'll return to in the future, as there's much to be said for a simple menu done well when traveling.

Merry Christmas!

25 December, 2015

We started the day with a traditional "Full English" breakfast cooked in the flat; eggs, bacon, sausages, baked beans, grilled tomato, mushrooms and toast. In the spirit of holiday excess we augmented this with bagels & lox as well as scones with jam and clotted cream. Round it out with tea, coffee, and juice to complete the morning feast.

Afterwards we opened gifts and a few small Christmas Crackers. We drew names and everyone went shopping on Christmas Eve so that we'd have small gifts to exchange. After opening our creatively-wrapped gifts we played games for a while and watched Christmas movies (A Christmas Story, of course!) on DVD from the laptop which was connected to the television with an HDMI cable I carry in my computer bag. We had reservations late in the afternoon for dinner at a well-reviewed gastro-pub just a few blocks away.

The Only Running Footman (Update: in early 2016 the pub was closed and has since reopened under the name The Footman) provided an outstanding traditional English Christmas dinner. The Pre Fixe menu had enough variety to satisfy any taste and all six of us were able to find something that suited us. A nice selection of beers and ciders were also available to complement the meal and the service was attentive and well-paced, especially given the demands presented by a multi-course meal being served to a full house. Every place setting included a large Christmas cracker and there were mince pies to savor even after dessert was served. All of us were ready for someone to carry us down stairs and roll us home after the meal. We understand that the head chef from the The Only Running Footman was installed at its sister pub, the Portman, just a short distance away across Oxford Street. We'll have to pay it a visit on our next trip across the pond and report back. As best I can tell from the postings on FaceBook it appears that the Footman was forced to close in some part due to issues pertaining to the lease on the property. It was in the center of Mayfair just off Berkeley Square so I suspect the landlord was demanding a significant rent increase. 

The rest of the evening was spent in a food coma, somewhat tempered by a raucous game of Cards Against Humanity and a few libations to help the digestive process along. While it was definitely a Christmas day much different than any other we have ever experienced it was quite enjoyable and a pleasant change of pace. We certainly missed the routine of our usual visits to extended family, but the variety was fun. It has certainly opened the door to future variations on established family traditions.

Monday, Monday

28 December, 2015
My daughter and I started the day with a jog around Green Park. It was clear and crisp morning and we found the cold air a bit harsh on our throats. Even with turtlenecks and mouth coverings we struggled to maintain a cadence so our run ended up being a modified jog/walk/jog/walk. I'm not much of a runner, but I do enjoy it, so i must admit that getting up and out early was a little exciting. When we returned to the flat a shower and a cup of tea put everything to rights and we rousted the rest of the family.

Divide and conquer was the order of the day. One group went to the National Gallery and the other to the Churchill War Rooms. The National Gallery (with the adjacent National Portrait Gallery) is certainly worth your time if you're a fan of art. I would place it behind the "Big Three" sites in London (The Tower of London, Wesminster Abbey, and St Paul's Cathedral) but on par with the Banqueting House, Churchill War Rooms, Royal Mews, Royal Observatory and other locations. Plan to devote at least a half day for the National Gallery, and that will give you an opportunity to skim the high points. A whole day is really needed to begin to do it justice. There is a nice cafe with views of Trafalgar Square where you can have lunch and recharge.

Over all the years that I've been visiting London I've never visited the Churchill War Rooms until this trip. I only became aware of them about ten years ago and this is the first opportunity I've had to visit them. The spaces are a bit cramped, but if you have any interest in the European theater during WWII it's well worth dealing with rubbing elbows and getting bumped around a bit. With modern air handling equipment the space is quite pleasant, but it doesn't take much imagination to visualize what it would have been like crammed full of people, filled with cigar and cigarette smoke, and with less than optimal hygiene facilities. In addition to the War Rooms, many of which are just as they were left when the war ended, there is the Churchill Museum. Plan on about 3 hours to explore the War Rooms. We spent an additional 30-45 minutes hitting the high points of the Churchill Museum but would have spent more had I been aware of how comprehensive it was. Under the circumstances our schedule didn't afford that luxury. We walked to and from the War Rooms through Green Park to St. James' park from our flat in Shepherd's Market. It was a gorgeous day and the resident birds were numerous and entertaining.

We stopped for a quick pint at Shepherd's Tavern on the way to the flat. The structure was built in 1735 by Edward Shepherd and originally served as a butter shop. No one is quite sure of the date it converted to a pub, but we're glad the decision was made. Butter is good, but if forced to choose between the two beer is going to win out every time.

Dinner was an extended family affair (17 of us) at The Stafford to celebrate my Mother's upcoming 70th birthday. If you're headed to London and want to bathe in luxury with staff to cater to your every whim and fancy then The Stafford is highly recommended. My parents have been guests there over the past 30 years and the location is as exceptional as the service.

No Agenda

29 December, 2015

We've been in London for almost a week, but it doesn't feel quite like that with the holidays mixed in. I'm cursed with a rather large head, so it is generally accepted that I can't walk in a hat shop and find anything that fits me. I figured that if I had a chance anywhere on the planet Lock & Co (founded 1676) would be the place. I wasn't disappointed. My first thought was to find a nice, warm, cap of some description. A basic hat that I could wear most every day. I was as giddy as a school girl to

Lock & Co

walk in and find a stack of hats in my size, and even a few a size larger! This was unheard of! 

I can't tell you how many times I've won bets with friends by going to stores and betting that they didn't have a hat to fit me. Most mass-market manufacturers max out at US size 7 3/4 and I wear a 7 7/8 or an 8, depending upon the manufacturer. Being able to actually choose from several styles and materials was unlike anything I had ever experienced. I ended up selecting an Oslo Tweed cap (a traditional "driving cap" with hidden ear flaps.) While I haven't had occasion to deploy the ear flaps yet, I can say that the hat is well fitted and stays on my head even in a rather strong breeze. On a whim I asked about fedoras. I was quickly informed that they had several styles and colors in my size. I nearly fainted. I ended up with a navy blue (nearly black) fedora that fits as if it were made for me. The staff at Lock & Co are helpful, knowledgeable, and stand ready to assist you with your hat selection. They hold Royal Warrants from both the Duke of Edinburgh

Some of the inventory (5-6 hats per box)

(Prince Phillip) and the Prince of Wales (Prince Charles) so you can shop there with confidence. given their proximity to St James' Palace it's not difficult to visualize Prince Charles walking up the street to go pick up a recent order. (I have no idea if that would ever happen, but it's an entertaining through, none the less.) They're on St. James' Street, between Piccadilly and St. James' Palace, just a block up from Pall Mall. Check out some of the older hats they have on display above the till, some of them date from the 1800's. These are hats of classic style and timeless design, meant to last a lifetime with proper care. They are made by hand and will fit you perfectly. You're making an investment in your wardrobe, not purchasing a souvenir. This is one of those places where homework pays off if you're in the market for a hat. Having an idea of what they offer and the various price points will keep you from getting flustered, especially if the shop is busy. They do have sales between Christmas and New Year's, so keep an eye out then for some nice bargains.

A couple of blocks up from Lock & Co you'll find Davidoff at the corner of St James' and Jermyn St. If you're looking for cigars, pipes, walking sticks, or maybe some particularly rare Scotch, then stop in here. My Mother purchased a cane from them years ago and every time she brings it back in they replace the tip, tighten the head, and buff out any dings that may have appeared. As tends to be typical in London (and I know it gets a bit redundant, even cliche') the staff here are simply nice people that are a joy to interact with.  Lunch was a quick sandwich at Patisserie Valerie, at the corner of Piccadilly and St James'. Don't let the decor or any clutter fool you (if they get outrageously busy they'll stack up dirty dishes in order to get tables cleared and new customers seated) their kitchen produces some tasty offerings. Things do tend to move fast, so being prepared will serve everyone well. Openly demonstrating to the staff that you're willing to go with the flow a bit will pay dividends, as they tend to get more than their fair share of high maintenance customers. A smile and a nod will go a long way.

Just down Jermyn St, just across from the statue of Beau Brummel (as referenced by Billy Joel in It's Still Rock-N-Roll To Me) is a shop that I visit every time I come to London. Taylor of Old Bond Street is a gentleman's shop and they have, simply put, the best shaving products I've ever used. There's nothing quite like a shave with brush-applied cream and alcohol-free aftershave to finish it

off. A container of shave cream lasts me months and months and I've been using the same (mid-range) shaving brush for going on 4 years now with modest signs of wear. Once you figure out what you like it is easy and affordable to order additional product on-line. I still make a point of visiting when we're in town in order to see if there are any new products available.

Dinner tonight was at Spaghetti House. A London chain that looks a bit institutional from the street but serves some solid basic Italian along with a respectable wine list, nice coffees and good desserts. The best thing about Spaghetti House is that you don't need to book a table in advance (assuming a party of 4-6)  and the second-best thing is that you can feed a family of four for about £70, which is downright reasonable by London standards. On the way back to the flat we stopped in at Kings Arms on White Horse Street for a couple of pints before calling it an evening. A typical British pub with a good selection of cask ales and a neighborhood crowd ready to discuss the topic of the day, which tends to lean heavily towards rugby or football (soccer) until they figure out you're American, then they want to know what the hell is going on with the Presidential election.

Wednesday in London

30 December, 2015

Windsor Castle - Spring 2014

Wednesday was a divide and conquer day. The kids went out to Windsor for a tour with our dear friend Henrietta Ferguson. We first met her on a visit to London in 2007 when she took us on a "Harry Potter" tour of Oxford. She is a licensed Blue Badge Guide and an absolute delight to work with. Over the years we have also visited Blenheim Palace, Hever Castle and Chiddingstone, The Tower of London, Lambeth Palace, and Westminster Abbey. From small, intimate family groups to an entourage that warrants a motor coach she has you covered. You'll not only learn about what you're seeing, you'll also learn how it relates to other things you may have seen or heard of. Make no mistake, a day spent with Henrietta will be one to remember. Her quick wit and local wisdom accent her encyclopedic knowledge of all things historical, making a game of "stump the guide" most ungratifying.

J Smith & Sons

My wife had a few specific places she wanted to go shopping, so that's how we spent the day. We started with a trip to James Smith & Sons, an establishment that has been in business just under 200 years. As we weren't in the market for any riding crops, whips, life preservers, or swordsticks our shopping was limited to umbrellas. This shop has been on her radar for almost ten years and on the eighth trip we finally managed a visit. Their craftsmanship and detail is simply stunning. If you're looking for a functional keepsake and have occasion to use an umbrella with some frequency then consider investing in one of theirs. With proper care it will last several lifetimes and (heaven forbid) they can repair it for you if needed. Full disclosure - we noticed the "no photos" sign a bit late and offered our apologies to the gentleman who was assisting us. He said not to worry, so here we are. As I had already invested in a nice hat (details forthcoming in another post) I did not consider an umbrella for myself, but I may consider one on a later trip.

Beautiful Umbrellas

After our finishing up at James Smith & Sons we headed to my wife's absolute favorite store in all of London, LIBERTY! My first memory of Liberty of London is from my first trip to the UK when I was fourteen. I purchased a couple of cashmere scarves that I still have and use as often as the weather allows. Unfortunately Liberty hasn't offered those scarves for some many years so I've had to shop elsewhere. If you've never enjoyed the luxury of a fine cashmere scarf tucked around your neck on a cold day you're missing something. It is truly one of life's simple pleasures. But I digress, this is not about my previous trips. 

This trip was about one thing and one thing only - fabric for quilting. As you'll recall from my post on Edinburgh, my wife is an avid quilter and her Christmas present this year was a trip to Liberty to buy fabric. And buy fabric she did! Yards and yards of amazing fabrics that will eventually reappear in quilts, bags, and wall hangings of various description. Some of it will be stored away for some time to come, waiting for just the right project. Think of it as a bottle of fine wine that you hold back, waiting until the time to enjoy it is just right. This isn't fabric to be used capriciously, it is meant to be savored and used judiciously. While my wife perused and selected fabrics I wandered out the back door of Liberty and passed the time at Shakespeare's Head with a few pints and a useful plate of bangers and mash for lunch. I made my way back to Liberty to see things across the finish line, which still took a bit of time. After all was said and done we stopped in the cafe at Liberty for a pot of tea before heading back to the flat to meet the kids and hear about their day in Windsor.

Indian food (commonly referred to as simply "curry" in the UK) is as pervasive there as Mexican food is in the USA. In London you'll find that Masala Zone has several locations. We've now eaten at the Bayswater and Soho restaurants and both were quite good in my somewhat limited experience. The wait staff is pleasant and helpful, portions are generous, the menu is varied and prices are reasonable. Definitely book your table in advance as they are quite popular and availability may be limited at times.

New Year's in London

A Night to Remember!

Fireworks over the London Eye

My wife had fireworks on the Thames as a bucket list item, so the stakes were high. I've mentioned doing your homework to prepare for the trip and this is a prime example of how that pays off. In years past access to the viewing area was on a first-come, first-served basis, which obviously resulted in outrageous crowds and all the issues that go along with them. A couple of years ago the Mayor of London decided to make it a ticketed event with proceeds benefitting a non-profit. This year it was UNICEF, I'm not sure who it was last year. The first step was figuring out how to order tickets, and the initial answer was "not yet." I signed up for a mailing list on the Mayor of London website and eventually received an email notification telling me that they would go on sale October 2 at noon, GMT. Since I was going to be in Tennessee that day it meant that I needed to be awake with browser open by 6am, ready to go. There were only a couple of snags, the first being that we were a party of six, possibly eight, and they limit each customer to only four tickets. So I purchased four and my son purchased four. Making two online purchases back-to-back on an overseas website will make most credit card fraud detection algorithms go haywire, so have two cards at hand. The only other issue is ticket pick-up. They will mail them to you in the USA, but depending upon your travel plans you may not be home when they are delivered. Not to worry, you can pick them up at the ticket booth in Trafalgar Square a couple of days prior to the event. We had tickets in the Blue area, immediately adjacent to the Houses of Parliament and just west of the London Eye. Everyone tends to bunch up as close to the river as possible, leaving ample open space in the street. Make sure there isn't a tree or streetlamp obstructing your view of the sky and you're in good shape.

Pay attention to all the information you can find about transportation and access to the venue. The only people we saw who had any problems were the ones who thought the rules applied to everyone else. Getting to the viewing area is pretty seamless (assuming you selected an area somewhat adjacent to your lodgings,) To get home you should be prepared for a walk. We were staying in Shepherd's Market and it was a manageable walk from our viewing area. Yes, it was late and yes, we were tired, but the experience was more than enough to keep us going until we got home. Take something to entertain yourselves (we played Heads Up! on our phones) and, again, follow the rules. You will go through a security checkpoint and you will not be allowed to keep any contraband they discover. You will be rewarded with one of the most amazing fireworks displays you will ever see.

We had New Year's Eve lunch with friends from London at The White Horse on Parson's Green. It offers a range of seating options (we were a group of nine) and has an excellent menu as well as an outstanding selection of beers and ciders to choose from. If you're not sure what to try just have a chat with one of the fine folk behind the bar and they can either describe what they have available or match something to your tastes if you tell them what you like. They also have a complete selection of spirits and a respectable wine list, on the off-chance that beer isn't your first choice. Why beer wouldn't be someone's first choice is beyond me, but there you have it. We stayed until they booted us out to begin preparing for the evening festivities, but frankly I could have easily sat there and enjoyed the company until midnight. The White Horse is just a short walk south from the Parson's Green tube stop and well worth whatever effort is required to get there from anywhere in London. 

New Year's Day was also spent with friends. We had lunch at Belgo Centraal in Covent Garden. A Belgian-themed restaurant with several locations in London, each just a bit different than the other. Specializing in mussels, which are amazing, their menu has a bit of everything and ought to satisfy most any appetite. 

After lunch we went over to Regent Street, which had crowds rivaling the fireworks display on the Thames the night before. As we had a couple of youngsters with us that gave us a convenient excuse to stroll through Hemley's (you never know when you might find something of interest to older children...) Eventually we found a spot for afternoon coffee and took the opportunity to chat a bit more before calling it a day and heading home.

Leaving London

6 January, 2016

We took the train from Edinburgh to London and had Eddie Manning pick us up from King's Cross to take us to the Hilton at Heathrow Terminal 4 by way of the Stafford.  We first used Eddie in 2007 when we arrived in London via Gatwick with two of our pre-teen children. We didn't think the Gatwick Express to Victoria and subsequent cab or tube ride held much promise, so we opted to spend a bit more to help ease the transition after an overnight flight in from the states. While we haven't used Eddie every trip we do not hesitate to engage his services any time they will eliminate hassle without blowing our budget. In other words, this won't be the last time you see his name on this blog.

While in Edinburgh we identified a particular Scotch we were interested in taking home, knowing it wasn't readily available in the states. The gentlemen at Royal Mile Whisky confirmed that it was available in their London location, so Eddie stopped by there on our way to the Stafford and we liberated a bottle of Balblair '03 to bring home. After a brief stop at the Stafford to retrieve the excess bags we left there while we visited Edinburgh, Eddie delivered us quickly and safely to Heathrow for our final night in the UK. We decided that staying at the airport would make our departure a bit easier and I took advantage of my Hilton Honors membership and booked award rooms for the night. While the rooms are a bit small by U.S. standards they were spotless and comfortable. We had a tasty dinner at the Italian restaurant and topped everything off with a couple of farewell beers before calling it a night.

7 January, 2016

While this hotel is connected to Terminal 4 via a walkway and you can reach all the other terminals from there using the train system I caution against that if you're flying out of any other terminal with more than a single suitcase and light carry-on per person. You'll also want to make sure you have ample time to transit from the hotel to your destination terminal. We were flying from Terminal 3 and had six bags for four people, plus carry-ons. Factor in our 10 a.m. flight and some mobility issues and walking would have created a hassle not worth saving a few dollars and spoiling the end of a fantastic holiday. So, we arranged a taxi and then used the Heathrow luggage porter to get everything to the ticket counter. The American Airlines agents were quite efficient and helped with the logistics of dealing with the VAT refund desk. This process has changed a bit from our last trip. Formerly you needed to show up with the goods you were claiming VAT refund at-hand in case the agents wanted to inspect them. Now it seems that you just need your paperwork in order and they'll handle the rest. While you do pay a large percentage of your VAT in commissions to the companies for processing the refunds on your behalf, getting something back is far better than getting nothing. It does take several weeks for the refund to appear on your bank statements, but I've never had an issue receiving my refund.

Security at Heathrow is as efficient as any airport I've ever traveled through (TSA could take lessons, for sure) and we were on our way to the gate with minimal delay. Your gate at Heathrow can be quite a trek, so I advise against spending too much time in the duty-free area unless you have an exorbitant amount of time before your flight. You'll be asked for your boarding pass and passport just before your gate, so keep them in a convenient place. You'll also need them when you board, so don't put everything away permanently until you're on the plane.

Our flight from Heathrow to Charlotte was without incident, save a small mishap going back through security. A short layover and a final short flight and we were home!