Sitka

 28 July, 2026

Crescent Bay, Sitka

Based on our research prior to the trip, this was probably going to be our best bet to see whales. While they hadn't been reported in large numbers, there were sightings over the previous several days, so we were hopeful - but didn't have an idea of what we might see. Our excursion boat was docked within a stone's throw of our ship, so access was easy. The slope of the pier transitions was manageable, and they were fairly new and in excellent repair. (I'd guess no more than a season or two old, but have nothing to estimate against.) Our whale watching boat was staffed by Captain Greg and mates Abby and Jacob. They were all three professional, polite, helpful, and informative to a fault. Their cautions were firm, but well delivered, and their information meaningful while avoiding ephemera just to fill empty space. The boat was only a season old, and absolutely impeccable. Binoculars were available for use if you didn't have your own, and the seats were more comfortable than expected while still being space-efficient. Yes, you pay a slight premium for the cruise-affiliated excursion, but in this case it was definitely worth the price of admission.

Bald Eagle Family

We started out with an established Bald Eagle nest. I only had my phone to shoot photos with, which is not
a mistake I'll repeat on our next trip, but I still managed a few nice shots of the parents leaving the nest to hunt for food and a decent shot of the nest, although making out the youngsters is difficult. 

Our next stop was an area well known as a rafting-up spot for Sea Otters. Again, my lack of photography gear vexed me. In addition to a large group we were able to observe a mother with a pup. When they need to dive for food the mothers will wrap the pups in kelp leaves for insulation and leave them floating on the surface, then return and gather them up to restore their body heat and share their catch. When not hunting and eating the otters spend most of their time floating on their backs, watching the world go by.

Juvenile Humpback

As we were leaving the otters a few whale spouts were observed, so the captain started moving the boat in their general direction. Other viewing boats were in the area and everyone maintained a loose formation with engines at idle as we scanned for more evidence of our cetacean friends. We were rewarded with a quick glimpse of a hump here and a fluke there, when suddenly a calf breached the surface, launching himself in the air, spinning onto her back, and landing with a splash. This was repeated several times over the next thirty minutes or so, and I was lucky enough to catch several images. It was as if she knew there was an audience and decided to practice his crowd-pleasing talents for a live audience.

This was the moment that I crossed the line from thinking whales were "neat" to becoming infatuated with them. I want to see more of them, in more environments, doing more things. Humpbacks have always been "meh" in the past, but after seeing them (relatively) "up close" they may just be my favorite. Belugas are adorable, and Orcas are incredible, but Humpbacks are fascinating.

After returning to the pier we queued up for the shuttle to downtown Sitka. This service was exceptionally well organized and ran smoothly. A short bus ride delivered us to the Visitor's Center, which is a short walk from the center of town. There are abundant shops and small restaurants to attract your attention. The hospitality is as we discovered all over Alaska - friendly and inviting, despite the number of ill-behaved tourists they deal with on a seasonal basis. Yes, Alaska is still the USA, but it's not like anywhere else in the USA. Adopt the attitude that you're visiting a foreign land and need to adapt to the local customs and you'll have an absolute blast - try to force things to fit your image of the world and you will experience friction.

When we were all "walked out" we hopped back on the shuttle and returned to the docks, where we had an "interesting" lunch at a crab restaurant that didn't have any crab rolls (a bit perplexing!) and steamed crab prices that obviously carried a "tourist surcharge" (most of us opted for fish & chips, which were quite lacking in comparison to the Ketchikan version) - but their seafood chowder was amazing and the Salmon Berry Lemonade was addictive enough to be classified as a controlled substance in most places.

We made our way back to the ship to get off our feet for a while and ended up at the Windjammer for a light dinner, still partially full from lunch. We had reservations for Spectra's Cabaret, which is first-come, first-served on seating, so we wanted to make sure we arrived in a timely fashion - after seeing The Book on Odyssey our expectations were high.

Sitka Sunset (no filter!)

Unfortunately, our expectations were not met. While the performers gave it their all, and there was
certainly effort and investment to support the production, there was no discernible story line detectable. I would imagine that some mind-altering substances, hallucinogenics to be precise, might enhance the experience, but otherwise I struggle to provide any level of endorsement. The Book (on Odyssey) is quirky and can be difficult to track at times (at least the first time you see it) - but there is a common thread that is easy to identify. Spectra's Cabaret just seems like an abstract journey filled with entropy.

We returned to the Tiki Bar for a bit of martini-medication before heading to our cabins. Skagway is next, and it promised to be another full day of Alaskan adventure.