Cruising - Day One

 25 July, 2026

"Orca Song"

As is my custom, I was up and about for coffee fairly early (putting my new insulated cup to good use) and met my sister and brother-in-law on the Royal Esplanade. Jeff has a similar cup that he procured on his last trip to Vancouver. Same style of artwork, created by indigenous PNW artists, but a different theme and color motif. I was drawn to the color and theme of my mug when I saw it on the shelf, and couldn't resist the temptation. I'm picky when it comes to drinking vessels (an expression of my neurodivergence) so this was a gamble for me. I've got a cabinet full of rarely-used cups and mugs, and didn't want to add to the collection. This has now become my "daily drinker" for coffee when I'm not at work. (Work mugs tend to take a beating, and I prefer a handle for more rugged conditions, so this is decidedly not "ambulance appropriate" by my standards.) I don't know that I was aware that an entire genre of art existed beyond the totem, but I'm happy to have discovered it.

Sea-Day Brunch provides ample flexibility, so we took our time getting to the dining room where I continued my Eggs Benedict project. I'm happy to report that Royal Caribbean continues their streak of poached-egg perfection (and I won't keep you in suspense, I had poached eggs of some sort every morning, and was joined by others several times, and of over 20 poached eggs only two didn't hit the mark of "perfect" - and those two were still quite good.)

Sailing up the coast is a constant stream of "look at that" moments, punctuated with "look, a whale" (generally just a spout, as the area you're scanning is so vast the odds of seeing a hump or a fin on the surface are incredibly small.) The last time we saw scenery like this was sailing the Strait of Magellan on Mariner of The Seas when we went around Cape Horn. There are no bad seats, as long as they have view of the outside.  Two70 on the Quantum-class ships is an excellent place to hang out if you want to enjoy the scenery without chasing every possible view.

Humpback

And on cruises such as this, you have the addition of enrichment lectures while you make your way up the coast. On this day we enjoyed an excellent lecture on whales. Growing up on the mid-Atlantic coast (not well known for whale activity) whales have always been one of the marine elements that didn't get much thought, like sea lions, penguins, and kelp beds. We see plenty of shark, dolphin/porpoise, turtles, and large gamefish, but whales are generally just "somewhere out there" or relegated to television specials from National Geographic or Jacques Cousteau.

But on this day, things changed. I don't know exactly why, but it was likely due to the geography of the situation. It was entirely plausible for the lecturer to mention something about humpbacks one minute and have one pop up next to the ship the next - which is a situation you don't often find yourself in.

I became enamored with whales. Not to the point of infatuation, but definitely fascination. The prospect of seeing the giants of the ocean (relatively) up-close was exhilarating, to say the least. Now it was a matter of the whales cooperating and allowing us a glimpse. Would we see humpbacks? Orca? Beluga? Or would we get skunked and only have the memory of spouts on a distant horizon?

Following the whale lecture, a retired RCMP Mountie shared the history of the RCMP as well as the path to becoming a Mountie and his personal experience serving. It was entertaining as well as educational, providing insight revealing a level of flexibility and adaptation not seen in U.S. law enforcement. Imagine the FBI serving at every level from County to Federal in the United States and you have a good idea of what the RCMP handles across Canada.

For dinner we visited Chops and had a wonderful time. The service was exceptional, even when compared to the already elevated experience that Chops usually provides. This is the first time we've dined in this venue as a party of four, and the distribution of side items was much more reasonable - a greater assortment with less waste, and an opportunity to try just a taste of something without feeling guilty for leaving a nearly-full dish on the table. 

All-in-all a fantastic day cruising North, to Alaska!

Vancouver - Boarding Day

We started the morning by packing up last minute items before taking a walk around the corner to Ciclo for one last amazing coffee.

Jeff is practically on a first-name basis with the baristas at this point, and they don't even need to ask for his order. Our arrival time at the port is 12:30 and our checkout time for the Air BnB is 11:00, so our goal is to push our departure to the absolute last moment and just arrive at the port early. The worst case scenario is that we end up waiting for boarding – but that's never been the case, especially since electronic boarding documents were implemented.

We lingered over our coffees and enjoyed some incredibly well-made pastries, enjoying our last few hours in Vancouver and anticipating the start of the "real" vacation, despite already having enjoyed some of the best food we've ever had in restaurants, anywhere. We returned to the AirBnB, put on the finishing touches, and shuttled our suitcases down to the lobby. 

Our challenge was going to be finding an Uber that would accommodate four passengers and all of our luggage. We requested an XL and a large Kia SUV arrived, which just fit everything. We had the good fortune of a driver who was familiar with all of the ins-and-outs of the cruise terminal drop-off process. Thanks to his knowledge we avoided the long drop-off lines and were able to take our luggage out of the car and hand it directly to a porter. We did have a bit of a longer walk than had we gone to the other entrance, but not having to wrangle suitcases more than compensated for the extra steps.

This is our 46th cruise, across four cruise lines, departing from 18 different ports in five countries. It was the most convenient and one of the smoothest processes we've ever experienced, even if it did involve a bit more walking than any others that we can recall. After dropping our luggage we snaked through a short maze of hallways to the elevators, rode up a level, and then continued along a concourse, out of the building. You then walk in another door and go through security. After security you show your passport and get a paper ticket (I think I've got the details in order, I may have a step or two mixed up, but the general concept tracks.) Then you proceed into a large room where there are a line of cruise reps armed with iPads. Boarding passes are scanned and (assuming you completed the online check-in) you're sent along ANOTHER path that runs parallel with the first path you followed from the elevator to the outside. You exit again, then proceed down the breezeway past the door you entered a few minutes ago (showing your paper ticket for passage) and then proceed back in the building, through US customs, and on to the ship. Despite walking approximately half the distance of the Yukon trail this entire process, from handing luggage to the porter to stepping off the gangway onto the ship, took us exactly thirty minutes. 

Thanks to the online safety briefing we were able to complete our muster station check-in within minutes after boarding and then headed to the Windjammer for lunch.

The Windjammer experience was one of the least hectic departure day lunches we've ever experienced. Perhaps it was because we were a party of four, maybe it was just the crowd, or the timing of the day (I heard that the late departure, due to waiting for the tide to allow bridge clearance, allowed some of the pre-cruise activities to run a bit later, so maybe that was it.) Whatever the reason, it was fantastic. 

By the time we finished lunch our cabins were available, so we were able to drop our carry-ons, convert to "vacation mode," and explore the ship. This was our second Quantum-class ship, and was recently "Amplified" (in Singapore last April) so we were curious to see the changes. Most obvious was the removal of the Bionic Bar and it's replacement, the Tiki Bar. The Tiki Bar has several frozen drink dispensers, a couple of which seem a bit questionable, but all are tasty. Giovanni's Kitchen was added, along with Izumi Teppanyaki. The family Splash Pad area was updated as well. The pool area aft of the Solarium has a sliding roof, providing a protected area for colder-climate itineraries. In place of El Loco Fresh (one of our favorite spots on Odyssey) there's a Fish & Ships on the pool deck - which received good reviews from everyone I spoke with. Odyssey has a Sports Bar, with food available for an added fee,  where Ovation has the Dog House, which has a selection of complementary hot dogs and brats which make a good mid-afternoon snack when returning from an excursion after lunch.

Our luggage was delivered promptly at 3:00 (air tags are brilliant for tracking progress!) so we returned to the room and spent about 30 minutes unpacking and organizing before relaxing on the balcony for a bit.

This is the first time we tried early seating for dinner. We have been on small cruises with only one seating, but traditionally we've always opted for late seating. It's difficult to make a comparison due to how unusual an Alaska itinerary is to a Caribbean itinerary. We have early seating for our upcoming New Year's cruise to be more kid-friendly for the grandsons, so that might give us a little better idea.

The welcome aboard comedian was a complete bust. He started strong, but after the fist five minutes or so he devolved into a stream of disjointed babbling and never managed to recover. We ended up in Boleros for a couple of drinks and called it a night.

We enjoyed our time in Vancouver, but it was nice to get settled on the ship.

Vancouver - Day 2

 23 July, 2026

A full and wonderful day!

We started out in search of breakfast. Who would have thought a Thursday morning would have been so busy? The first couple of places we tried quoted extensive waits and no options for coffee while we waited. Our ultimate destination was still highly recommended, and there was a coffee shop just around the corner, so we could begin our morning caffeination ritual while we waited for our table.

The weather was spectacular - especially after suffering through 90+ degree days with humidity levels you could slice with a knife in North Carolina. We were having a nice chat on the patio, enjoying our coffees, when a fire alarm activated. Suddenly our quiet and cozy wait was joined by a couple of hundred office workers, unceremoniously ejected from their desks by a cacophony of sirens and buzzers.

Cafe Medina

After checking our watches, and realizing we hadn't received a notice that our table was ready (long after it should have been) we packed up and made our way back to the restaurant. Investigation with the hostess revealed that another "Jeff" with a party of four had claimed our spot in the queue, walking up just as our slot became available. The hostess apologized profusely and we were seated immediately.

Café Medina (neither funky nor cold) is a bustling venue, considered the "original" Vancouver brunch destination, and renowned for their Belgian Waffles. The menu borders on the eclectic, but modifications are happily managed (I can't speak for substitutions, as we tend to avoid them unless they're offered, or mandated by a dietary restriction.) Service was on-par with our expectations, and the food was spectacular. Our table covered everything from waffles (have to try the specialty) and avocado toast to the Cassoulet. There were a couple of cocktails consumed, and, of course, plenty of coffee. We didn't linger over our table, as a healthy waiting list was standing by and we had places to go and things to see.

Our first destination was Granville Island, which has a variety of what can be generally described as "everything." Food, specialty boutiques, produce markets, craft stores, instrument makers, art galleries, and street vendors are all well represented. The ever-present trinket shops are available, but if you want to get a more useful souvenir there are plentiful options to choose from. We strolled along from shop to shop, ultimately headed for donuts (because brunch was at least an hour prior, and we had to get in some pre-cruise conditioning.) After small purchases at a yarn shop (or two) and a music store filled with local hand-made items, we paused to listen to a street musician and do a bit of people-watching. We arrived at Lee's Donuts and found a bit of a queue, which appeared to be fast-moving. If you're looking for the same donuts you'll find at your local chain establishment then you may be headed for disappointment. Lee's leans heavily on local and regional influences, with the base being a honey glaze as opposed to the typical simple-sugar glaze found in franchise shops. Filled variations on offer tend to be cyclical, specialty recipes - targeted by many customers - seem to be more consistent. Regardless of your choice, prepare for  deliciousness. We each chose a donut, and since a half-dozen made more economic sense than four singles, Jeff and I selected two. (We're walking it off, after all!) After we polished off our donuts we browsed a bit more before grabbing another Uber to head over to Stanley Park.

Stanley Park is the home of a collection of Pacific Northwest Totem Poles which are the most frequently visited tourist site in British Columbia. The collection began in 1920, with the purchase of poles from different areas. Over the years many original poles have been returned to their origins and what we see on display are replicas. The authentic poles have been carefully preserved and maintained over the years.

If you're visiting on your own, keep an eye out for tour buses, and try to be flexible. Buses will show up, purge their contents onto the park, and almost as quickly, disappear.  Your patience will be rewarded with better photo opportunities and easier access to the restrooms and gift shop. The area benefits from pleasant breezes, thanks to being on a point that projects into Vancouver Harbor. Seaplane traffic is plentiful, as are steady helicopter transits to the outlying islands - any aviation buff can be entertained well beyond the attention span of their companions.

Having logged more than our allocated steps for the day, we summoned yet another Uber for a ride back to our AirBnB. After unloading our purchases we worked on re-packing suitcases in anticipation of our move to the ship the next morning. This proved to be perfectly manageable, leaving a bit of time for relaxation and recharging before our dinner reservation.

Tonight our reservation is three blocks south of where we ate last night. Spoiler alert - I'd stay in this neighborhood again just to be close to these restaurants. Blue Water Cafe is an excellent choice if you're looking for good seafood. Service was spectacular, with one caveat - when the check was paid our server quickly adopted the attitude of "You're done - now leave." This was communicated without nuance or apology. After spending $100 per person on an amazing dinner, this was a bit abrupt and enough to avoid this server should I ever return. Our cocktails were innovative, delicate in flavor, and delicious. The selection of appetizer specials approached overwhelming - I opted for the trio of bluefin tuna nigiri, one portion each of Akami, Chutoro, and Otoro - and I don't regret my choice at all. The three cuts were simultaneously complimentary and contrasting, forming a culinary delight. For an entree two of us selected the Arctic Char, one chose steak and the other scallops. Everyone thoroughly enjoyed their entrees without a single point of complaint.

North! To Alaska: Getting to Vancouver and Day 1

22 July, 2026 

The intrepid travelers

We're currently sitting in an AirBnB in Vancouver, working on our jet lag. Our flights yesterday were both delayed, but uneventful. The first flight fell victim to harsh weather in the midwest early in the day, but still got us to Chicago with over an hour to spare before our connection was scheduled to depart.

This trip is a new adventure in several ways.

It's the first time I've vacationed with my sister apart from large family trips.

It's our first time to Canada other than my hunting trip to Anticosti Island in 2001. While that was a singularly spectacular trip, and one I wouldn't hesitate to repeat, I didn't experience much in the way of "regular" Canadian life.

Our first time visiting Alaska.

We boarded our connection just a few minutes after the posted time, and during the boarding process one of the flight attendants suffered a medical crisis and had to be taken by ambulance to the hospital for evaluation. We had to wait about a half-hour for a standby flight attendant to arrive. After her arrival it took another 10-15 minutes to bring her up to speed and sort out the assignments before we pushed back. The 737-MAX was quiet and comfortable (my first trip on a MAX) and the flight crew was excellent. The menu was fairly good, but limited due to the size of the aircraft. The seats were comfortable, but a bit disappointing as a First-Class product. Winds and weather aloft were in our favor and we arrived in Vancouver just a few minutes after our scheduled time despite our delayed departure.

Vancouver

After de-planing we trekked a distance roughly equal to the journey of the miners seeking gold in the Yukon from the gate to immigration. The walk was punctuated by various installations of nature and cultural exhibits, so we were entertained, but at 2am (to us) it was a bit to stomach.

Immigration was automated and efficient, baggage claim was seamless, and we soon found ourselves curbside, evaluating ground transport options.

Despite having International cell phone service, none of us could access a network. This issue continues intermittently 12+ hours later, without any plausible explanation. Everything has been reset, reconfigured, and rebooted to within an inch of existence. I've traveled to multiple destinations in both Europe and the Caribbean with much less friction than this. (Update - after 16+ hours the cellular systems seem to have caught up with themselves and everyone's service is now consistent and seamless.)

Ciclo

Other than arriving on one of the hottest days of the year, and our AirBnB not having central air (and in-room units that were not turned on) things went fairly well. The condo we're staying in is nicely appointed and comfortable. The bedding and towels are sumptuous and an assortment of pillows in varying degrees of firmness are provided. Thoughtful touches, such as toothbrushes, tea, and coffee are available, and the WiFi was fast and reliable. This is certainly a drastic contrast to my Canadian hunting trip.

Our day has consisted primarily of coffee, snacks, showers, reading, and some light napping. There are nearly a dozen coffee shops within two blocks of our Air BnB (only one of them a Starbucks) and Jeff made the fortunate choice of giving Ciclo a try, which happens to be located in the restaurant we are having dinner in this evening. I took a short walk to the grocery store for some light snacks. Visiting local grocery stores is always enlightening, it's interesting to see the differences in product selection. 

Chili Oil for Days

We may have an assortment of hot sauces, while they'll have a similar selection of curry. We're much heavier in snack items, while other countries tend to have a greater variety of breads. (Note that the prices are in CDN, and the exchange rate at the moment is about $1 USD to $1.25 CDN.)

Social Corner came highly recommended from Jeff's daughter and son-in-law, who lived in Vancouver until recently. Highly recommended in the Michelin Guide, it offers a Spanish-Italian fusion menu along with excellent cocktails. While the tapas, burgers, and pizza may be disarming, don't lower your expectations in the least. We didn't have voracious appetites, and the portions were larger than we anticipated, so we ended up taking boxes home rather than stuffing ourselves to the point of misery. Without exception, everything we ordered was delicious and I will definitely return should I find myself in Vancouver again.

Lourie and I find the city to be enchanting. Bustling, but clean, stereotypical Canadian politeness, and abundant trees and green spaces all combine in a unique arrangement. It's quite unlike any other large city I've visited.

New York - Day 4 and Departure

 24 April, 2026

After a restful night's sleep, thanks to not being stuffed to the gills with incredible food, we visited a café that has become a favorite of my cousin's. Maman is a stylish venue with a wide selection of coffees and an intriguing assortment of breakfast items. It was delightful to sit quietly, sip coffee, nibble a bit of breakfast, and sift through our photos of the previous few days as we discussed what we each considered to be the highlights of the trip. We also searched the area and formulated an outline of places to go and things to see. This was probably the first time all trip that we were able to sit leisurely without a deadline looming over our heads. The coffee was excellent and our breakfasts were delicious. It was easy to see why my cousin is such a fan of the establishment. It has definitely earned a spot on our list of New York go-to destinations for future visits.

St Patrick's Cathedral

As many times as I've visited New York over the years for work, trade shows, and mini-vacations, I've never spent any time around Rockefeller Center, haven't seen St. Patrick's from the front, and haven't strolled along Fifth Avenue in this area. On our way to Rockefeller Center we stumbled upon La Maison du Chocolat, which has stunning displays and  equally delicious confections. We couldn't resist buying a few tastes, even though we were still quite sated from breakfast.

We made our way to the end of the block and the Plaza, which was busy, but much less congested than I anticipated. We were able to move around without difficulty and virtually no hustling and bustling. While Lourie browsed the shops I made my way up the block to take some photos of St. Patrick's and explore the area. Eventually I found myself back in the Coach store, where Lourie was purchasing a few small gifts for the younger ladies of the family.

Rockefeller Plaza

The weather was spectacular, so after we finished in Rockefeller Plaza we continued up Fifth Avenue, dipping in and out of shops looking for nothing in particular, but steadily making our way towards a stationery shop on Park Avenue. We added a few trinkets for the little ones, and then spent an hour or so plundering through the stationery shop, picking up more ephemera while resisting several tempting books and games. 

We found another Pret nearby and ducked in to sit for a while and have a small bit of refreshment before heading back towards 7th Avenue via Uber. We visited Venchi in Rome, so we were keen to see one of their New York shops and pick up a few of our favorite chocolate bars. The ride was brief, but a much-needed respite after our long morning trek. 

Gelato

We were greeted by a cioccolatiere when we entered the shop who was pleasantly surprised that we were repeat customers. After establishing our bona-fides by describing the location near the Pantheon he enthusiastically offered us samples and suggestions based on our prior purchases. We browsed the loose candy selection in fine detail and struggled to keep our choices somewhat reasonable. After we completed our assault on the chocolates we chose our gelato flavors. We sat and savored our gelato, taking another much-needed opportunity to get off our feet. We were only a few blocks from our hotel, so after we were re-energized we strolled back through Times Square to deposit our purchases and figure out what to do for dinner. Times Square was filled with street performers as well as cartoon characters and superheroes of dubious quality. As skilled as some of the performers might be, their promoters are equally as annoying. I'm sure there is a demographic that their techniques are effective on, but I'm certainly not in that group.

Havana Restaurant

After searching maps and websites we opted to give the local Cuban restaurant a try. As you may remember from my Miami posts, Cuban food is a favorite that we don't get very often these days. When we arrived at Havana there was a live band playing, who were quite talented, but VERY LOUD. I tend to get overwhelmed by excessively loud noises, and it was a sincere struggle for me to sit in the restaurant. We ordered drinks and entrees, and, thankfully, the band took an extended break. I was thankful for the respite, based on the dishes we saw (and smelled) being delivered to nearby tables. When our dinner arrived we were rewarded for any inconvenience or discomfort we may have previously endured. While not the best Cuban food we've eaten, it was quite good and we didn't leave much on our plates. If the lack of empty seats is a metric of food quality in Manhattan, then the rest of the menu was at least equal to our meals. Another, mildly less entertaining, stroll through Times Square delivered us back to the hotel to work on packing things up for our departure the next morning.

25 April, 2026

Rain on Manhattan

An afternoon flight allowed us to enjoy one more bagel breakfast from Zucker's before being collected by New York Airport Limo. The morning was a bit rainy, the first real weather we experienced the entire trip.  We checked the bags one last time, organized our carry-on items, and made our way down to the street level to meet our driver, who was customarily punctual. Traffic was light, attributable to the day and the weather, and our only obstacles involved road closures due to construction.

Arrival and check-in at the airport was seamless, and we were quickly through security with much more time than intended before our flight boarded. We enjoyed watching the fountain and shared a slice of Junior's cheesecake. We were a bit light on carry-on items, so I also obtained a slice for a friend as a surprise when we arrived home. Boarding and departure were on-time and the flight home was thoroughly uneventful.  New York is always a good time, the only real challenge being choosing what to do from the vast array of opportunties. The only wrong choice is failure to make any choice.

LaGuardia with rain

New York - Day 3

 23 April, 2026

Bryant Park

We finally made it to Zucker's for bagels! While they're certainly not Carnegie Deli (RIP) - neither are their prices. My toasted sesame bagel with cream cheese, lox, and onion was fantastic, probably boosted a bit by the fact that I was sitting in Manhattan when I ate it. Some of our local shops, all started by transplants from New York, do a solid job, so I'm not comparing this to a chain or a grocery store, but rather a legitimate bagel bakery. Lourie enjoyed her everything bagel with cream cheese as well. I look forward to our return for an opportunity to explore more of their menu. It's interesting without being extreme, which is in my wheelhouse.

The weather was crisp and clear, so we set off to the garment district with full stomachs in search of a fabric shop Lourie was familiar with. We had a nice, casual six-ish block stroll through Manhattan, enjoying the hustle and bustle of city life. Business people consumed by their cell phones, tourists trying to orient themselves with paper maps while others drug massive suitcases down the sidewalk, police officers, ambulances, and firemen responding to various calls and alarms, dog walkers, mothers with strollers, and the nondescript (such as us) who may have been visitors or just average city dwellers on their way to an appointment. 

The Batcave

We arrived at Mood  - in a nondescript office building on W 37th St, and took the elevator to the third floor. The sheer volume and selection of fabric and notions was overwhelming - and there were two more floors of equal size! Customers roamed the aisles, some just browsing, some looking for particular types of fabrics with no specific requirement, some looking for inspiration, and others with very specific needs based on project specifications, whether a costume, interior design, or other need. The energy was palpable, even for a casual observer. While I can sew, and find it satisfying in the same way I enjoy woodworking, and have been known to help Lourie with a project from time to time, I certainly don't consider myself any sort of sewing talent. To use a cooking analogy, my sewing skills would translate to the cooking skills required to successfully prepare a box of Kraft Macaroni & Cheese.

7th Ave

The established relationships between staff and customer were obvious. Discussions of searching for fabrics or trims similar to previous purchases, ongoing projects, planned projects, and personal events permeated the air. This isn't just a store, it's a community. Everyone appeared busy, and politely brusque in the typical New York "I have things to do" fashion, but they were equally polite and helpful. If you're not familiar, or unreasonably demanding, you may consider someone rude - but just a hint of polite patience pays greater dividends in New York than anything. Sit back, read the situation, and go with the flow. You'll walk away with a smile more often than you will a frown.

Lourie found a some fabrics to help complete a few projects, we paid, and went on our way.  We had time for a nice stroll back to the hotel to drop off our packages before heading over to Serendipity3 for our late lunch/early dinner reservation. We stopped at a few of the classic "I 🖤 NY" shops on the way, searching for youth-sized t-shirts. The weather was absolutely spectacular, which made the walk all the more enjoyable.

Frozen Hot Chocolate

Until this trip I had never heard of Serendipity3, had no idea what it was or what they offered. Walking in from the street I wasn't sure if we landed in Wonderland or were having a psychedelic adventure. The decor was LOUD, colorful, and whimsical, the menu was bordering on overwhelming, and the staff convivial. While the venue screams "tween birthday" it's not difficult to set aside your inhibitions and go with the flow. This was our big meal of the day, but it turned out to be a bit "bigger" than I anticipated, due to the simple fact that the portions were generous and the dishes were tasty. And then there's the Frozen Hot Chocolate. I chose the Salted Caramel Hot Chocolate and Lourie selected the traditional "plain" Hot Chocolate - but there's nothing plain about it. I'm not sure what I expected, but the rich and creamy concoction was better than I anticipated, and the serving is deceptively large, make sure to bring an appetite. 

entrees

For our entrees Lourie ordered the Summer Bries - turkey with apples, brie, and sprouts. I continued with my ongoing burger trend and opted for a Truffle Burger - with boursin cheese, fried onions, and onion jam. The burger was a bit messy to eat, but outrageously delicious. The fries were perfectly cooked - crispy on the outside while fluffy and tender on the inside. While we both made a valiant effort to finish our entrees, we both failed to achieve our goal, but not by much. With ample time before the doors of the theater opened, we enjoyed a walk through Times Square on the way back to our hotel to freshen up before the play.

We arrived in the queue a comfortable length of time prior to doors opening, and the crowd was absolutely giddy with the prospect of seeing Tom Felton on stage. The energy was much higher as compared to our previous visit, almost festive in nature. Just as our last time, the crowd was attired in everything from Hogwarts Robes, to jeans and t-shirts, to coat and tie. The overwhelming majority chose shirts or blouses and slacks - a nice combination of comfort and style. The lobby was abuzz with excitement as first-timers explored the interactive exhibits while waiting for the doors to the auditorium to open. When the time arrived we located our seats, which were an upgrade from our first visit, and settled in for the performance. Despite having seen it before, we both experienced the sensation of watching a show for the first time. We were in agreement that the first time we saw the show the special effects took center-stage, and this time we were more focused on the performers. The first time Tom made an entry the crowd went berserk, which is apparently the norm based on the actors' reactions. Everyone froze, waiting for the applause to subside, before continuing with their lines. Likewise, each time "Draco" delivered the line "Potter" the he was met with thunderous applause - and everyone held their place again. The presence of Mr. Felton notwithstanding, we found the show much more enjoyable the second time around. If you've seen the show once and liked it, I recommend seeing it again if you have the opportunity.

Times Square

New York - Day 2

 22 April, 2026

I had big plans of enjoying a fresh NY bagel piled hight with lox and cream cheese for breakfast, but we were still absolutely stuffed from our glutinous repast at Patsy's and were somewhat focused on recovering in time for dinner. We opted for a bit of a lie-in to mitigate our digestive distress.

In a stroke of luck I was able to locate one of our favorite London "quick bite" spots just around the corner and a block or so up the street. Far enough for a nice stretch of the legs and settling of the stomach, but close enough that there were no worries about having too far to walk in the opposite direction to the theater, which was one of the reasons we were in New York in the first place.

Pret A Manger

Rewind to last November (and apologies to the two or three of you who have read the entirety of this blog and find this information redundant.) Actually, rewind even further than that. Rewind to June 2, 2025. (Based on the topic I'm about to discuss I just realized how apropos the "rewind" reference is - a subconscious interjection, or just a twist of luck?)

A co-worker, who was not someone I would have ever selected to be a theater geek, had just returned from his annual theater junket. He and several friends go for a long weekend and pack in as many shows as possible, relying heavily on TodayTix and the infamous TKTS booth for last-minute deals. I've found TodayTix to be a good source if you're planning in advance, but if you're flexible and open to seeing just about anything at the last minute, there are outrageous deals to be had at TKTS. But I digress!

Nic was telling me about the shows he had seen,  and among them was Cursed Child. He couldn't stop gushing over the production quality and effects. He was torn to bits because he wanted to share details, but didn't want to spoil anything. I'm thankful that he held his tongue and we were able to enjoy the production with only expectation of being amazed and not anticipation of when the amazement was about to occur.

With this information in-hand, I searched for tickets that would fit our November cruise schedule and purchased them. (Remember, this is June 2, 2025.)

On June 5, 2025 they announced that Tom Felton would be joining the cast on November 11, 2025. Lourie is a huge fan of Tom's after reading his book. Some people complain that he's just another wealthy "poor child star" whining about his life, but she doesn't share that opinion, choosing to see him as a person struggling to manage the expectations of others.

Our tickets were for November 4 and our cruise returned on November 16. I don't know if it would have been less expensive to see the show then or plan a return trip to see the show. Other than our dinner at LeBernardin, I'm not sure that it wasn't cheaper to return!

Now, back to last November - we're sitting at the gate in LaGuardia, waiting for our flight home after the cruise, and I'm checking out Tom Felton's run thus far in Cursed Child, Originally it was announced that he would appear through March 22, but due to demand he was extended through May 10 on his opening day. Our anniversary is May 5. I now have an excuse to bring Lourie back to New York for an anniversary trip and, potentially, make seeing Tom Felton a complete surprise. As I searched I discovered that Dan Radcliffe would be appearing in "Every Brilliant Thing" From February 21 through May 24. I knew nothing of the show beyond it being a one-man cast with heavy audience participation. But I did know that seeing Tom and Dan perform on the same trip would be viscerally satisfying.

Simply Brilliant!

So I sat with my phone, searching for tickets that intersected within a day or two of each other that were at least leaning towards the affordable end of the price spectrum. Luckily enough there was a matinee of Every Living Thing on April 22 at a price much more digestible than the evening productions, and a pair of fairly reasonable tickets for Cursed Child on April 23.

So, here we are, having a nibble at Pret A Manger before our matinee. The crisp walk of a few blocks provided an additional stretch and we arrived in ample time.

After reaching our seats I was somewhat shocked to see the star of the show scurrying around the theater talking to people. He'd introduce himself simply as "Dan" and offer a handshake, chat for a moment, then rush off to someone else. This continued right up to curtain time. As someone who lives near a movie studio, I've grown accustomed to meeting famous people in random situations and witnessed many uncomfortable interactions. "Dan" managed each encounter deftly and without fanfare, as if it were two people discussing their preferred flavor of ice cream in the grocery aisle. People seemed to be more stunned by his normalcy than his stardom, which I consider praise of the highest order.

Dan

As previously mentioned, we had no idea what the premise of the play consisted of. In summary, it's a story of emotional struggle and growth, as seen from one person's perspective. The story is broad enough in scope that nearly everyone can gain something from it, and most will gain a great deal. We found ourselves moving from laughter to crying, and back, several times during the performance. There were twists and turns, and the audience participation was, dare I say, brilliant. There are warnings that the topic of suicide is mentioned, so please act accordingly if this is a concern. This is a production I would definitely see again, and would be interested in seeing a different lead performer as I think the personal interjections would make the contrast compelling. We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and I'm thankful that we had the good fortune for things to come together as they did.

After the play we had a few hours to relax before hopping in a Lyft to another highlight of the trip - dinner at Le Bernardin. I've been a fan of Eric Ripert since I first discovered him, thanks to Top Chef. My first impression was of the classic snobbish French chef. After watching a couple of episodes with him as guest judge I realized I was horribly mistaken and he seemed to be a regular nice guy with a passion for the culinary arts that couldn't be contained. His passion and focus in those days could overwhelm his foundational "good guy" demeanor and sometimes he came across as a bit on the brusque side. As his public persona has grown I think that Chef Ripert has overcome this tendency and communicates his enthusiasm with a disarming, almost a youthful, charm. Eating at his restaurant became a goal many years ago, and I finally had my chance.

Reservations at Le Bernardin at "civilized" hours are not easy to come by unless you plan in advance. Reservations for the month open on the first of the prior month, at 7:00 am online and 9:30 am via telephone. I didn't have any issues making our reservation, but I was online just a few minutes after 7:00 on March 1. Generally speaking you can get a table late in the evening (10:00-10:30 seating) with just a few days notice. Seating in the bar and lounge are on a "first come" basis (come early to avoid a wait) and feature the same quality if not the same selection of dishes.

My original intent (pre-Patsy's) was to indulge in the Chef's Tasting Menu with wine pairings. Unfortunately neither of us had quite the appetite for that, so we "downgraded" (heavy sarcasm) to the more "pedestrian" <cough> four course Prix Fixe menu and a glass of wine.

We've enjoyed several tasting menus of varied themes and influences over the years, in a selection of Michelin-starred restaurants, this being somewhat obviously the only Three Star venue we've visited. If you don't appreciate delicate and subtle, this may not be the place for you. This isn't to imply in any form or fashion that Le Bernardin lacks in any sense of the word, but you're not going to get sensory intensity in the manner of spice or heat. Everything is prepared to perfection, and the flavors are layered and delicate, coupled with textures that inspire adjectives that border on unsuitable for polite company.

Dinner started with an amuse bouche, which, shamefully, I failed to document in any way other than a photo. I blame shock, awe, and being a bit star-struck over actually sitting in the restaurant. I do remember that it was, in all respects, tasty, interesting, and a little challenging - which is what I consider to be the perfect combination. I don't want something I've had before, I want to try something different that the chef has prepared to display his creativity.

Tuna

We didn't make any tasting notes, so you've successfully avoided being bored to tears by inane descriptions of each dish, and I won't beat you about the shoulders with photos of every dish. Suffice it to say that nearly everything we had was the best of that particular preparation that we've ever had, with, perhaps, one exception, which I'll point out as I move through the dishes.

For the first course (entitled "almost raw" on the menu) Lourie selected the Crab Salad. It was presented as a perfectly round stack of layered ingredients with remoulade and sauce placed to the side, allowing you to build a bite of your preference. I enjoyed (and I do mean ENJOYED) the Tuna. It literally melted in my mouth, in both flavor and texture. I could have eaten a pound of this without regret.

Tuna Tataki

The second course ("barely touched") consisted of tuna for Lourie (Tataki-style in this case) and the Scallop-Sea Urchin for me. Tuna Tataki is a favorite in our house; rarely does it appear on a menu and not get ordered. Even in the aftermath of the previous dinner Lourie managed to devour this with eyes rolled-back in her head. If I had to name my least-favorite dish of the evening, it was the Scallop-Sea Urchin. I anticipated an umami-bomb with the underlying sweetness of fresh scallop. Between the Sea Urchin and the broth the sweetness of the Scallops got lost. Texturally the dish was wonderful, flavor-wise it was nice, but lacked the depth and breadth I anticipated. Certainly not a "bad" dish, just the least remarkable of an array of world-class plates. I didn't take notes, but the dish is memorable in it's distinctiveness.

Dover Sole

For the main ("lightly cooked") I had no choice. It simply had to be the Dover Sole. Any lack of amazement that I may have experienced in any other dish was eliminated by this plate of amazing flavor and delicacy. The Dover Sole exceeded my already high expectations. Lourie chose the lobster, which she reported was likely the best preparation she had ever enjoyed. While the Dover Sole was light and delicate in texture, the flavor was broad and rich. I've seen Chef Ripert prepare this dish many times on television and in videos, but had no idea it would be as good as it is.

Peruvian Dark Chocolate

After basking in the afterglow of our main courses, we casually moved on to dessert. I chose the Pistachio, which was a lightly sweetened nougat that complemented the preceding dishes perfectly. Lourie selected the Peruvian Dark Chocolate, and absolutely swooned over it. The light and delicate adornment was an enigma - almost a pressed powder in texture as compared to a molded liquid. I'm no fan of dark chocolate (I attribute that to my Y chromosome) but a taste of this substantiated the praise I was witnessing across the table. I paired my dessert with a glass of Tokaji, an incredible wine from (primarily) Hungary that can be challenging to find. We were introduced to it about ten years ago at Victoria & Albert's in Walt Disney World. Tokaji is a sweet wine made from grapes affected by noble rot,  it covers a range from the traditional syrupy dessert examples to a more modern dry presentation. My glass was along the middle of the sweet-dry spectrum and thoroughly enjoyable.

It's easy to be intimidated when dining in an establishment of this acclaim in a city such as New York. You may be sitting with a hedge fund manager on one side, who eats here weekly, and a couple on the other side celebrating a milestone with a once-in-a-lifetime experience - there's no way to know. We started the evening with two young gentlemen next to us, celebrating a birthday. One was about to get married and the other was anticipating the arrival of his first child. We were celebrating 36 years of marriage and had a three-month old grandson at home, which facilitated a little friendly conversation. Our experience exceeded our already lofty expectations in every regard and I hope to return in the not-too-distant future to partake in the tasting menu.

We hopped in another Lyft for the return to our hotel neighborhood, hopping out a a block away to stroll through Times Square and allow our dinner to settle a bit. We returned to our room for a much more restful evening than the night before, sated but not stuffed to the point of misery.

New York rarely fails to deliver a day filled with memories, usually good ones. This day ranked among the very best.