Monday, Monday

28 December, 2015
My daughter and I started the day with a jog around Green Park. It was clear and crisp morning and we found the cold air a bit harsh on our throats. Even with turtlenecks and mouth coverings we struggled to maintain a cadence so our run ended up being a modified jog/walk/jog/walk. I'm not much of a runner, but I do enjoy it, so i must admit that getting up and out early was a little exciting. When we returned to the flat a shower and a cup of tea put everything to rights and we rousted the rest of the family.

Divide and conquer was the order of the day. One group went to the National Gallery and the other to the Churchill War Rooms. The National Gallery (with the adjacent National Portrait Gallery) is certainly worth your time if you're a fan of art. I would place it behind the "Big Three" sites in London (The Tower of London, Wesminster Abbey, and St Paul's Cathedral) but on par with the Banqueting House, Churchill War Rooms, Royal Mews, Royal Observatory and other locations. Plan to devote at least a half day for the National Gallery, and that will give you an opportunity to skim the high points. A whole day is really needed to begin to do it justice. There is a nice cafe with views of Trafalgar Square where you can have lunch and recharge.

Over all the years that I've been visiting London I've never visited the Churchill War Rooms until this trip. I only became aware of them about ten years ago and this is the first opportunity I've had to visit them. The spaces are a bit cramped, but if you have any interest in the European theater during WWII it's well worth dealing with rubbing elbows and getting bumped around a bit. With modern air handling equipment the space is quite pleasant, but it doesn't take much imagination to visualize what it would have been like crammed full of people, filled with cigar and cigarette smoke, and with less than optimal hygiene facilities. In addition to the War Rooms, many of which are just as they were left when the war ended, there is the Churchill Museum. Plan on about 3 hours to explore the War Rooms. We spent an additional 30-45 minutes hitting the high points of the Churchill Museum but would have spent more had I been aware of how comprehensive it was. Under the circumstances our schedule didn't afford that luxury. We walked to and from the War Rooms through Green Park to St. James' park from our flat in Shepherd's Market. It was a gorgeous day and the resident birds were numerous and entertaining.

We stopped for a quick pint at Shepherd's Tavern on the way to the flat. The structure was built in 1735 by Edward Shepherd and originally served as a butter shop. No one is quite sure of the date it converted to a pub, but we're glad the decision was made. Butter is good, but if forced to choose between the two beer is going to win out every time.

Dinner was an extended family affair (17 of us) at The Stafford to celebrate my Mother's upcoming 70th birthday. If you're headed to London and want to bathe in luxury with staff to cater to your every whim and fancy then The Stafford is highly recommended. My parents have been guests there over the past 30 years and the location is as exceptional as the service.