Pro Tip: Packing

The executive summary for 95% of us: You overpacked. No, not just a little, we're talking "Why did I bother to bring all this?" overpacked.

Efficient packing for a trip thousands of miles from home is as much art as science. If you think you can manage, follow the advice of the experts and pack a small rucksack for a two week adventure across three countries. I've been traveling for over 40 of my 50 years and can't imagine subjecting others to the degree of funk that would represent. I also don't want to spend an inordinate amount of time doing laundry in the hotel sink every evening. By the same token, you don't need 3 spare sets of everything for that same two week outing. Ultimately you have to find your own balance, but do yourself a favor and tip the balance the other way on occasion to test yourself. You'll survive and so will everyone else, you'll just be a bit wiser the next time. I achieved my most efficient packing to-date on my recent trip to London. The schedule was shredded and my luggage arrived a couple of days after I did, so I came home with clean clothes, but not by much.

Here's my approach. I don't claim that it's perfect, but it's much closer to perfect than no plan at all (which will only result in an over-stuffed, and likely overweight, suitcase.)

• Undergarments and shirt to wear home. It seems odd to address this first, but having fresh clothes to put on the morning of departure can do wonders for your disposition at the end of a trip. Set them aside and don't touch them unless you encounter a complete disaster. If you know you'll have access to laundry facilities you can be more flexible, but even then I tend to stick by this rule "just in case."
• Socks: I have a strange formula, but it can be reduced to this: Six pair for the first week, five for the second week, four for the third week. Socks can be a pain to wash and dry in a hotel but easy to recycle if you have access to a washer/dryer. The type of sock/stocking you wear can have a significant impact on your needs. I tend to wear more cotton/polyester blends, so washing isn't a viable option in many cases. If you have malodorous feet you may need a more pairs, if your feet emit lavender and sandalwood aromas you can get away with fewer pairs. Time of year (temperature) is also a contributing factor. If you're traveling more than three weeks without access to laundry you're probably backpacking, and none of this makes any sense.
• Trousers: This is where the time of year becomes a significant factor. During cooler months I assume I'll be able to get three days of wear without concern. In warmer months two days may be a stretch, depending upon the particulars. These are the times you can do a lot with a small bottle of Febreeze and a fan. Staying with neutral color selections is a tremendous help. If it's a "one time only" pair then it probably needs to stay home.
• Shirts: More dependencies on weather. In cooler months I always plan to layer shirts and sweaters. I select neutral sweaters that can be combined with whichever shirts I've packed to give multiple different looks. If it's warm I lean towards synthetic/technical fabrics that tend to be more odor resistant and quick drying, in case I need to do a sink wash. Even when the temperatures are moderate places like subways and trains can be stifling in some places.
• Shoes: Unless I have a compelling reason to go light I always take two pair for any trip longer than a week. After a few days of walking in one pair my feet do better with a change of pace.
• Outerwear: If it's cold enough to be a concern I pack a light beanie and gloves, then wear or carry a coat and scarf. It's a bit more to keep track of en route, but you save room in your suitcase.
• Toiletries: In these days of luggage fees and ever changing weight limits I suggest either travel-sized items (purchased or pack-at-home) or, in some cases, purchasing upon arrival. A little research can be of tremendous benefit here. In any event, take only what you're likely to need and leave the warehouse-store-sized product at home.

If you have something new to wear every day then you have too much, that I can assure you. Take your time and don't get in a hurry to maximize your odds of packing effectively. Do all you can to avoid putting ANYTHING in your suitcase because your reason is either:

1. "I might need it, so I'll take it just in case."
2. "I can't decide, so I'll just take it anyway."

The odds are exceptionally high that you WILL NOT need it, and you're perfectly capable of making the decision now.

No Place Like Home

16 April, 2017

A glorious visit was capped off by a memorable morning, weather-wise. Sunday dawned bright and clear, which isn't unheard of for London but certainly goes against the stereotype of persistent fog and rain. It was a Sunday, and even London has a slow, lazy feel one day of the week.

We bid the staff at The Harrington farewell once again as our driver from Eddie Manning loaded the abundant luggage in the van for the trek to Heathrow. Thanks to plentiful reward miles, we were headed to the Virgin Atlantic Upper Class Wing for drop off, which makes departure absolutely painless. (This service is available to Delta passengers as well as Virgin Atlantic, depending upon class of service and loyalty status.)

We ended up with an additional bag, thanks to a combination of reducing the inventory of our son's dorm and a bit of additional shopping. It was a pleasant surprise when the agent simply tagged all our bags, handed over our boarding cards, and sent us on our way to the dedicated security checkpoint. A reasonably painless trip through security and a quick stop at the U.K. Customs desk for validation of our VAT refund forms was followed by a scavenger hunt to locate the "correct" duty-free desk (which turned out to be a wild-goose chase, thanks to misinformation provided by the representative at Liberty the day prior.) After walking all over the duty-free area (thanks to incorrect signage) and standing in line unnecessarily I deposited the forms in the mail box just across from the Customs desk, where I started ~20 minutes prior. UGH!

With all the housekeeping details complete, we headed off to the Virgin Atlantic Upper Class Lounge for a bite to eat while we waited for our flight to be called. As we expected based on our experience last September, the lounge staff was attentive and efficient. We had about an hour before boarding, so that gave us the opportunity to get things in order while enjoying a pot of tea. When the flight was called we made the short walk to the gate and were settled in to our seats in a matter of minutes.

The flight was smooth and hassle-free, arriving in Atlanta on time where the customs lines were long. Our huge stack of luggage and lack of anything to declare caught the attention of an officer, but he was more than satisfied that we were beginning to move our son home from London. The Atlanta security checkpoint was the usual mess, with no accommodation for those holding TSA Pre-Check status.

After a reasonable layover we were on our final flight home and welcomed a night's rest in our own bed!

2017 New Years Eve Fireworks in London

Tickets for the 2017 New Years Eve Fireworks in London are now on sale!

The only way to enter one of the riverside viewing areas is to have tickets. Check out the details at www.london.gov.uk/nye - tickets are £10 each and individuals may purchase a maximum of four. If you're planning to visit London for New Year's it is well worth the effort required. Make sure you select to pick up your tickets at the Trafalgar Square booth if you don't have a UK address for mail delivery, as there is no guarantee that you'll receive them via mail in the USA prior to your departure.

Last Day in London

15 April, 2017

Tying up loose ends was the order of the day. First we headed over to Liberty, in search of a couple more skeins of yarn to match some acquired earlier in the trip. A manager was summoned to sort out a glitch with the register and he tempted us with some absolutely fantastic chocolate truffles shaped like eggs. His sneaky salesmanship led us downstairs to the candy department, where we ended up being plied with even more samples. We finally escaped with a small bag full of delectable delights and proceeded on our quest for additional items on our checklist.

Just out the back door and down the passage is one of my new favorite pubs, The Clachan. With a line-up of ten cask ales to choose from you can have an epic pub crawl and only walk as far as from your seat to the bar. The atmosphere is open and lively with a fair mix of locals and tourists. Warnings are posted to beware of thieves and pickpockets (they love tipsy tourists who don't keep track of their belongings) so keep your wits about you, just in case. If you have someone in your crowd who is keen to do some shopping at Liberty this is an excellent place to drop anchor and have a pint or three in a pleasant atmosphere while you wait.

A specific type of souvenir was on the list, which led us to the tourist tchotchke mecca of Piccadilly Circus. If you look at a map it appears to be a trek from Oxford Circus to Piccadilly Circus, but in reality it's a leisurely stroll of about ten minutes or so. There will probably be crowds, regardless of the day. As previously mentioned, keep your wits about you and maintain control of your belongings. Since I'm not terribly souvenir-centric and the shops were crowded I did a bit more "research" and located a nearby pub that I was previously unfamiliar with. (Pro Tip: If you need a restroom, pop in to a pub and grab a pint, problem solved! Alternatively, if you need a pint, just use the restroom as an excuse to go in the pub.) The St. James Tavern was a bit crowded with a large percentage of tourists, which isn't surprising given the proximity to Piccadilly Circus. If your pub-fu is anywhere above novice level the staff will breathe a sigh of relief over not having to repeat the same tutorial for the eleventy-hundreth time today. They have several cask ales available at any given time as well as an assortment of lagers and ciders, so you should be able to find something to suit your taste.



Laden with packages (and wondering how I was going to re-pack to accommodate the new purchases) we made our way back to the hotel to drop off everything and freshen up before dinner. When something works why mess with it? As has become a London tradition for us at this point, we made dinner reservations at Côte for our final night. If you're a regular reader you have probably seen previous reviews and comments from prior trips and understand why we keep coming back. If you're a new reader, thanks for joining us, here's a summary!

Côte is, simply, one of those things that is just "right" in the world. Amazingly well done French cuisine served by uniformly convivial staff, offered with an approachable wine list at budget-friendly prices. This is still London, so "inexpensive" is an adjective reserved for rare situations. Côte isn't inexpensive (That's a £4 meal deal at Tesco) but it is quite affordable and represents exceptional value. Many locations attract a large pre-theater crowd, so I suggest dining later or making reservations (which are generally easy to obtain if you don't wait until the last minute.)

Visiting Family on Vacation

14 April, 2017

We took advantage of the kitchen in our flat and prepared our own breakfast instead of going out. After a leisurely morning we headed back over to Islington to clarify some pressing knitting questions at Loop. Such an extended foray left me parched <cough> so I wandered back to The York in order to quench my thirst with a pint (maybe two, but who's counting?) If you haven't read my previous entries about the neighborhood the summary is this: Loop is a charming shop staffed by delightful people and The York is a solid pub with affable staff and a nice selection of beers to choose from as well as some tasty menu items.

After a couple of hours in Islington we returned to the hotel to drop off our bags before skipping over to Mayfair for dinner. My sister was in town for a few days, so we met her at Burger & Lobster (yes, our second visit this trip.) Since we tried new menu items the first visit this trip (which were quite good, but not as good as our favorites) we opted for the original lobster rolls this time, and they met our high expectations. My sister had the bun-less burger and raved over it. She can be a bit picky and reserves high praise only for things that are truly exceptional - she ended up returning for another burger a few days later before she left London.

Yes, it is that good.

After a leisurely (and tasty) dinner a short tube ride had us back at Gloucester Rd. Since my opportunities for rich, creamy, Guinness and cask-conditioned ales were growing scarce I sent my wife on to the hotel, and I went across the street to The Hereford Arms for a pint before calling it a night. Yes, there is a difference between what it served here and what is served across the pond.

Best Laid Plans Fall Apart

13 April, 2017

Thursday morning broke as a typical spring day in London, slightly chilly and overcast. We didn't have much of an agenda and thought it would be enjoyable to stroll through Westminster Abbey. Although we've visited a number of times over the years there isn't a shortage of things to see and learn. A quick check of Google indicated that Thursdays were typically less crowded than other days of the week, so we hopped on the tube and headed over to Westminster.

When we exited the station the first thing we noticed were the barricades across the street put in place after the March terrorist attack on Westminster bridge, the next thing we noticed was the increased number of heavily armed Metropolitan Police officers in the area. Just across from the site of the attack in Parliament Square Garden a makeshift memorial for the victims.

As it turns out, Google didn't consider the additional traffic generated by a holiday week. There were two lines outside the Abbey, each stretching a couple hundred feet from the entrance. Since we weren't interested in using a significant amount of our day waiting in line we went around to the gift shop to look for a couple of items, took a few photos, and then decided to head over to Borough Market for lunch at two of our favorite spots.

 If you've read through the older archives of this blog you're already familiar with the object of my desire at Borough Market. Scotch Eggs from Scotchtails are simply amazing. They have been gracious enough to share their cooking technique and I hope to have an opportunity to try and replicate their divine creation in the near future. Look for them under the green umbrellas near Southwark Cathedral. If there's a queue don't let it put you off, they keep a steady stream of production and I've never had to wait more than a few minutes to be served.


In my opinion the other can't miss item is the toasted cheese sandwich from Kappacasein Dairy. They've graduated from the green umbrellas to a permanent shop on Stoney Street, just next to the Southwark Tavern. This isn't your father's grilled cheese sandwich. A blend of artisan cheeses enhanced by a sprinkling of leeks is toasted between two slices of the most amazing hand-cut bread you've likely ever experienced. While the queues don't move as quickly here as they do for scotch eggs, let me assure you that the wait is well worth the reward!

They also offer Raclette, which is, in its most basic form, melted cheese over boiled potatoes. (A cousin of poutine, if you will - same primary ingredients, different presentation.) The queue for Raclette is generally comparable to that for toasted cheese, so apparently they've got something going there as well. For me, I'll stick with the sandwich, thanks!

After lunch we caught the tube to Oxford Circus so we could stop by Liberty for a few odds-and-ends, primarily fabric requested by friends at home.

Between travel and shopping a fair amount of time passed, so we opted to grab afternoon tea in Café Liberty, which is one of our favorite places and an exceptional value. A large pot of tea with scones fresh from the oven, jam, and clotted cream is £10.95. They will gladly refill your teapot with hot water for a second steeping, and the quality of the tea is such that I can vouch that the English Breakfast holds up well. When they are busy it can take a few minutes to get the bill, so plan accordingly if you are under any scheduling pressure.

The rest of the afternoon was spent with our feet up in anticipation of meeting friends for dinner at Rocca, just down from the South Kensington tube station. If you're interested in a restaurant in good favor with locals and of low tourist density then you may want to give them a try. All our dishes were quite good, and our party covered the better part of the menu.

Dachau, Neuschwanstein, back to London

9 April, 2017

Sunday we booked a tour to Dachau with Radius Tours (they have an office in the Hauptbahnhof that offers guided tours to local attractions as well as bicycle rentals.) The fee is reasonable and includes all transportation between Munich and Dachau. I used them several years ago, so giving them repeat business should be an indication of my opinion of their operation.

My first visit to Dachau was in 2012, on a dreary day in March. Seeing it under clear, sunny skies on a pleasant April afternoon was quite a contrast and created quite an emotional paradox. To see flowers blooming and hear birds chirping under blue skies while immersed in a place of such profound human pain and suffering gives you plenty to contemplate.

While there was ample death and suffering at Dachau, it was not considered a death camp, but rather a research facility used as a prototype for other, more specialized, camps. There were camps used primarily for extermination. Dachau was an incubator, where various forms of torture or extermination were conceived, then these methods were implemented in other camps. Many of the notorious SS and Gestapo henchmen got their start at Dachau before being deployed to other locations, usually to implement the inhumane policies and processes they contrived. Until the end of the war Dachau and approximately 30 sub-camps in the area supplied labor at local factories for armament production, their overall goal being to extract maximum effort on minimum input to achieve the greatest efficiency of resources.

Visiting a concentration camp memorial site is a mentally taxing endeavor. I don't recommend planning to do much afterwards, as you will most likely be distracted by your thoughts. Following our own advice we opted for an early dinner back at Gaststätte Bavaria and an equally early turn-in in preparation for our visit to Neuschwanstein on Monday.

10 April, 2017
Neuschwanstein is an idyllic destination, commonly known in the U.S.A. as the "Cinderella Castle." This is a reasonable moniker, as of the eight or so European castles and chateaux that inspired the Disney design team Neuschwanstein had the most recognizable presentation in the finished product.

There are a multitude of options to choose from when making plans to get to Schwangau, everything from buses and trains to car services - there is something for every budget. No matter which option you choose I highly recommend pre-booking your tickets online. There is a small service fee, but the minimal added expense will save you considerable time at the ticket counter. When we visited the regular ticket queue was nearly an hour long. I waited less than five minutes to pick up our tickets. Entry is timed, so make sure your pre-booked tickets coincide with your travel plans. (More on timing in a moment.)
We were fortunate to have a local friend pick us up in Munich and drive us the hour and a half or so to Schwangau. Taking a road trip in a foreign country can be an enlightening experience, especially if you're familiar with road trips at home. Having a source of local knowledge to draw from was a tremendous benefit as well, but unfortunately it didn't help us avoid the vagaries of getting to the top of the hill for our tour.

There are three options to get from the ticket center to the castle. In order of cost (least to most) and effort required (most to least) they are:

• Walking
• Bus
• Horse-drawn Carriage

If you have an abundance of time and are in good to excellent physical condition then walking is certainly a viable option. I don't suggest choosing to walk simply to save a few Euros, you'll arrive at the top quite spent and probably a little annoyed. The bus is a reasonable compromise, but still leaves a bit of a walk at the top of the hill. The carriages get you as close to the castle as possible and still present a bit of an uphill walk, but it's quite manageable for most everyone who is reasonably mobile. Keep in mind that you will climb several flights of stairs after your tour of the castle begins and factor that in to your planning as well.

We chose the carriage and queued up for a ride an hour before our designated tour time, as suggested. It wasn't enough time due to the schedule of horse teams being swapped out. (Each team of horses only works a couple of hours, completing about four round-trips, with a water break at the top each time.) As it worked out, we arrived at the castle 15 minutes after our designated time and had to be re-booked on a later tour. Rescheduling is done on a space-available basis and you must visit the service desk (to the right inside the main castle entrance) to make arrangements. I suggest you queue up at least 1.5, if not 2 hours prior to your scheduled admission time, to make sure you're not tardy. There is a restaurant and snack bars "up top" in case you find yourself with excess time prior to your tour.

Overall, the spectacular views and sheer other-worldliness aspect of the castle are well worth the effort required to make the journey. However, I will say that the tour was a bit underwhelming and left us wanting for more detail. You're delivered a bit of a Cliff's Notes summary and, while I appreciate a novella wouldn't be practical, something akin to a nice short story would have been more satisfactory.

While you may be tempted to walk down after your tour, keep in mind that walking down a reasonably steep grade can be quite a challenge, especially after you're already tired. The carriage ride down is less expensive than the ride up and gives you a chance to catch your breath before tracking down your car or bus at the bottom, which are guaranteed to require walking.

We returned to Munich and descended on a long-time favorite, Augustiner-Keller, for dinner. The main hall was filled with energy, thanks to the music provided by a traditional band. We had a wonderful evening of conversation, good food and (as always) excellent beer. Unfortunately, we were told that they were out of starkbier (Maximator) - which was absolutely crushing!

11 April, 2017

After the exertion of the trip to Schwangau we decided Tuesday would be a good day to do a little casual shopping.  There were several knitting/sewing shops in central Munich my wife wanted to visit and the Viktualienmarkt was in full swing. (Oh, to have a kitchen and time to cook - the fresh produce was staggering!) Given the strength of the dollar vs. the euro we decided it was an excellent time to invest in a cuckoo clock and spent a fair amount of time selecting one that was interesting without being over-the-top with respect to music and activity. The VAT refund was a bit more than the cost of shipping, so we opted for delivery vs. attempting to transport it home on the airplane.

When we decided it was time for an afternoon snack we stopped by a favorite location, Zum Augustiner, for beer and obazder, a delectable cheese dip served with pretzels. Much to our surprise we were informed that Maximator was available, so we were able to enjoy a liter after all!

While we were in Munich I attempted to pre-pay for our return luggage on the Lufthansa website. Unfortunately their system didn't provide this functionality because I booked the tickets on a third-party service. Attempts to contact their customer service were unsuccessful as well. A complete failure with respect to customer service in that regard.

12 April, 2017
Wednesday we returned to London. Once again Munich airport security was thorough (my belt triggered the metal detector, cue thorough pat-down and hand-swab for explosive residue) but we were quickly on our way to the gate. Had we realized that the "gate" consisted of several flights of stairs to a bus loading platform we would have taken a different approach. Another ding against Lufthansa customer service. Fortunately I had been aware that my wife was fatigued from all the walking, so arrangements for Eddie Manning to pick us up at Heathrow were already confirmed (much to her surprise.) Our flight was uneventful, and we were quickly through immigration & customs and on our way back to The Harrington.

We enjoyed dinner at the Kensington Spaghetti House, one of our local standbys for a solid, uncomplicated meal. After a quick stop at Waitrose for a few necessities we called it a night.