Rome to Civitavecchia

2 November, 2024

Addio, Roma!

Saturday gifted us perfect weather for our trip from Rome to Chivitavecchia. We put the finishing touches on our re-packing, arranging our purchases among the spare space we had (weight being a non-issue at this point) and managed to successfully close everything up!  Our Transfeero driver picked us up promptly at noon and loaded our luggage while I checked us out of the hotel. In a matter of minutes we were on our way. The drive was smooth, pleasant, and mostly along the coast. Traffic was light, so the trip only took about an hour.

As we arrived in Civitavecchia the signs of a typical coastal tourist town became evident. Souvenir shops and sidewalk cafes with large sandwich-board menus dotted the oceanfront streets. The website for our overnight accommodation gave rather specific, but slightly confusing, directions;

"When you see the sign"MONDADORI BOOKSTORE" you have arrived Get in the gallery, the main door is opposite the Bingo, and ring the intercom."

When we pulled up and the address was a shopping center I was a bit concerned and asked myself what, exactly, I had gotten us in to? As we walked up the sidewalk to the interior of the building rolling our luggage a gentleman was sweeping and picking up garbage. He asked if we were looking for La Casa sul Mare and introduced himself as Loris, the proprietor. He took the luggage from my wife and led us around the corner to a door across from the Bingo parlor. Through the door and up a flight of stairs we found ourselves in a hall of office suites; attorneys and real estate agents, among others. None of this was making me feel any better! We were taken around the corner to a lift, up a floor, where we exited the lift and stood before a rather large industrial-looking door.

What have I done?

Then Loris opened the door with a flourish and my jaw hit the floor. We were standing in a beautifully appointed breakfast room. Snacks and pastries (a pistachio tart, baked on an "as needed" basis by Loris' mother, was under a glass dome) water taps (both still and sparkling) a wine rack, a refrigerator filled with juices, soda, and beer, an espresso maker, tea kettle and all the supplies you could imagine. All of my misgivings evaporated,  and we hadn't even seen our room yet.

Loris unlocked our room and my relief only grew. A large bathroom with walk-in shower and thick, soft towels, a comfortable bed with crisp linen and magnificent pillows, blackout shades (we discovered the next morning how effective they were!) and a large flat-panel television in the corner. Enough space for our (excessive) luggage, and an air conditioner that would satisfy anyone from the South.

We changed from "relocation" mode to "sightseeing" mode and asked Ambra, Loris' amazing colleague, for recommendations of what to do for the afternoon. She directed us to several shops within the immediate area and we went exploring. A stop at the ATM and some window shopping was followed by a shady stop to enjoy a scoop of gelato. (An indulgence we failed to maximize in Rome.) After gelato we made our way back to the book store below our B&B and spent a while perusing. I was amused to find the Italian edition of the game "Exploding Kittens" on the shelf – having been one of the original supporters of the Kickstarter project. We wrapped up our afternoon by dropping packages back in our room and freshening up before dinner. Ambra had given the local pizza restaurant a strong recommendation, telling us that people often drove  to Civitavecchia from Rome to eat there. 

Pizzeria del Ghetto is just a block away from La Casa sul Mare and is one of the least assuming establishments you'll ever see. The quality of their pizza is inversely proportional to the opulence of their interior decoration. Varished wooden tables and ladder back chairs along with a reach-in beverage cooler are accented by a simple menu hung on the wall. The pizza options are limited to Margherita, Marinara, and Funghi. Pizza for one is 1/4 of a ~20 inch diameter pie, and it's as good as any pizza I've ever eaten.

The pizza is cut with large scissors, which I'm told by my Italian friends is traditional. At full tilt the restaurant is staffed by a team of four; one at the register, one cutting/serving, one making, and one baking. Some reviews express dissatisfaction with the lady at the register, stating she's rude. She doesn't speak enough English, and I don't speak enough Italian, for me to form an opinion! The lady cutting and serving translated a couple of words I was missing ("eighteen fifty" isn't on my vocabulary list) and I successfully paid our tab. We arrived back at the B&B to find everything quiet, despite the fairly early hour, and settled down for the evening.

Rome - Cooking Pasta & Tiramisu

1 November, 2024

One of the things we immediately agreed upon when planning our visit to Italy was a cooking class of some description. I did a fair amount of research before focusing on TripAdvisor/Viator recommendations, then we discussed the merits of various offerings. Pizza? Pasta? Tiramisu? Gelato? With or without wine? Sauce-making or not? So many options! Do we do one class or two?

We finally settled on a single class with pasta and tiramisu, offered by "Eat, Walk, Italy" starting just after noon. We made fettuccine, ravioli, and tiramisu, the restaurant supplied the sauce. If you want to search for the class on Viator look for "3 in 1 Cooking Class near Navona: Fettuccini, Ravioli and Tiramisu" As of my writing this is the direct link.

Tiramisu carnage

We had a blast, ate amazing food, and completely warped my sense of what constitutes really good pasta. Now all I do is dream of making and eating fresh pasta. Well, at least the eating part. The making is fun, but the eating is more fun!

We met our fellow classmates in the square in front of the restaurant and waited for someone to invite us in. One couple had just arrived from the states and were on our trans-Atlantic cruise – how's that for a small world moment? At the appointed time Furio, our instructor, invited us in and showed us to our work area. In a stroke of good fortune we four cruisers would be in our own class unless there were some last-minute additions. 

We made the tiramisu first, so it would have more time to set up in the refrigerator while we made our pasta. It's amazing how few ingredients are involved in a dessert with such depth of flavor;

Marscarpone cheese, eggs, sugar, coffee, ladyfingers, and cocoa. That's it. (Unless you want to soak your ladyfingers in a bit of hooch, that is.) A little effort, a little technique, and some time complete the recipe. Variations are popular, and limited pretty much only by your imagination.

Prepared for Pasta making

After the tiramisu was sent off to chill in the refrigerator we moved over to the pasta station. 

Flour (very good 00 flour) an egg, and just the tiniest pinch of salt.

That's all it takes to make pasta, at least as far as ingredients are concerned. Yes, I was skeptical. Certainly there was more?

Transforming those ingredients into a reasonable incarnation of pasta isn't difficult, you can learn the basics in a matter of minutes. Being able to produce good pasta takes persistence and patience. People spend years dedicating themselves to becoming masters of the art, and it is truly an art. If you're so inclined, take the time to watch Chef's Table: Noodles on Netflix. Evan Funke will open your eyes to things you've probably never thought of when it comes to pasta. Where did all those shapes originate? Why do they even exist? How are they made? As is the case for so many things we take for granted because they "just are" or "have always been like that" there is a story and a purpose behind each of them. Mixing, kneading, rolling, and smoothing out a sheet of pasta with your hands is a visceral experience that connects you to all those who have ever made pasta. While my skills are still pedestrian, at best, the satisfaction I achieve grows with each incremental measure of improvement.

Pasta making!

After getting our ball of dough the correct texture (as proclaimed by Furio) we rolled it out in a mostly rectangular shape. From the middle to the edge, flipping from side-to-side, smoothing with our hand, adding small sprinkles of flour, and repeating until it was either "just right" or "just right enough" to move on to the next step.

When our sheets were properly rolled out we divided them, half for noodles, half for ravioli. A few folds and a few cuts produced a serving of noodles. The other half was folded, stuffed, sealed, and cut to make ravioli. Machine-made ravioli, with it's uniformity of shape and filling, is wholly unimpressive. I now understand that it takes training in magic spells to achieve this level of perfection with hand-made ravioli. Uniformity in size and shape insure even cooking, so "rustic" <cough> ravioli might require a careful eye when it's on the stove. After we finished our ravioli we chose the sauce for our noodles and our plates were sent to the kitchen for cooking! We washed up and moved out to the patio to wait.

Finished product

We didn't have to wait long (fresh pasta cooks quickly) and each of our dishes were presented to us. 

Wow.

The texture was amazing. The sauce was quite good (not Roscioli good, but good) and the cheese was delightful. We nibbled away at our plates, wanting the experience to last as long as possible. When we finished our pasta the tiramisu hit the table, and it was magnificent. I've made it since we returned home but haven't been able to produce the same results – yet. We overstayed our welcome and were finally asked to leave to make room for the next class to enjoy their dishes.

We were only a few blocks from a chocolate shop we were interested in, so we walked off our meal and did a little shopping. We passed several gelato shops but there's no way we could have eaten another bite at that point. I plotted a path to a convenient Uber pick-up spot and we strolled by the Pantheon on the way to our ride back to the hotel. All-in-all a wonderful day.

Pantheon

Rome - Vatican

31 October, 2024

For some reason jet lag was exceptionally bad on this trip, and even on our third morning we were still struggling to get up and out. With a 15:00 meeting time with Fabio at the Vatican Museum we had plenty of time to grab a coffee and croissant (caffé e cornetto) and check out a store Lourie was interested in before going to our meeting point.

We found  Cantiani on Via Cola di Rienzo and I had another opportunity to use some of my limited Italian. We sat at a table in a shady spot on the sidewalk and enjoyed a late leisurely breakfast. Afterwards we walked down the block to L'Erbolario, a cosmetic shop, for a specific product that my wife had identified in her research. 

Vatican Wall

Around 14:00 we started making our way to our meeting point on Viale Vaticano. On the way we encountered some of the local scalpers/scammers at the intersection of Viale Vaticano and Via Leone IV. Wearing blazers and official-looking name tags, these individuals will demand to see your tickets before allowing you to access the sidewalk adjacent to the Vatican. If you don't have tickets they will direct you to their counterparts who will gladly sell you a ticket – a ticket that may or may not be legitimate, and if it is legitimate it's guaranteed to be at a significantly inflated price. When we were challenged I informed the lady that we already had tickets and were on our way to meet our guide. She blocked our access to the sidewalk, so we crossed Viale Vaticano and walked up the opposite side of the street, which was actually where we needed to go, anyway. As we walked westward on Viale Vaticano we encountered additional solicitors, dressed in the same uniform, who came just short of forcing us off the sidewalk and in to their storefront. As we were waiting, just next to Caffé Vaticano, we were approached by two more members of the group who were reluctant to take 'no' for an answer.

Fabio arrived a few minutes before the appointed time. After I shared our experience with the overly-aggressive promoters he approached a nearby poliziotto who then cleared the sidewalk of illicit promoters. 

Getting through the line and security screening took just a couple of minutes (timed entry means timed entry in this environment!) Up an escalator, out the door, and we were on a beautiful terrace. We grabbed an empty bench and Fabio gave us a crash course on general Vatican history, the Sistine Chapel, and the contents of the Vatican Museum. Since photos and active guiding are not allowed in the Sistine Chapel this is the only opportunity for a briefing, as your trip through the museum ends in the chapel. Fabio had an excellent presentation and explained the connection between all the major elements, and pointed out the finer details that merited notice within the chapel. The museum wraps around the Pinecone Courtyard and is filled primarily with paintings and sculptures. 

Gallery of Maps

Visiting a mostly untaxed City-State that has a reputation for doing great good and great harm in the world is fraught with conflict. The value of the museum collection alone is estimated to be well over $10B, and some estimates put it closer to $15B – but how do you value ancient, one-of-a-kind items? The Vatican's real estate and cash portfolio is estimated to be a similar sum, and the Vatican Investment Office reported a profit of nearly $50M for 2023 and paid the Italian government roughly $9M in property taxes for holdings outside the Vatican walls (where it doesn't tax itself, logically.) This controversy, when coupled with a reputation for closing ranks and shielding it's own from accusations of sexual abuse, generates significant friction beyond the Catholic world. In full awareness of these issues I consider a visit to the Vatican as compelling as a visit to Berchtesgaden or Fredericksburg – the history is more important than the political statement. Is there a better way to understand, other than learning? The Vatican was everything I anticipated. Ornate, opulent, over-the-top in every respect. Staff is scattered about to assist with crowd flow and as a reminder that even though you may not be aware, you are being observed, so "hands-off." Other than a few bottlenecks, primarily at corners – such as around Nero's Bathtub, a vast basin carved of Imperial Porphyry with an estimated value of two billion USD – the flow through the museum is steady and not terribly crowded. The Gallery of Maps could consume several hours all by itself, but a steady casual stroll will allow you to take in a huge portion of the display. It was, by far, my favorite overall section of the museum. There are many stunning sculptures scattered throughout, but as far as a single section, this was it for me.

St Peter's Altar

After you exit the museum you descent a set of stairs to the rear entry of the Sistine Chapel. None of the books or websites you've seen even begin to do it justice. If you've seen either The Two Popes or Conclave then you have a reasonable idea of what you're in for when you step through the door; the sets used for those productions are shockingly accurate. The museum in general has no rules pertaining to noise, but it is forbidden to speak above a whisper in the chapel. The crowd will occasionally get a bit too vocal, and staff will respond with an exaggerated "SHUSH" or a polite announcement reminding visitors that they are in a sacred space and they should conduct themselves accordingly to keep from disturbing the quiet contemplation and enjoyment of others. 

Exiting the Sistine Chapel you descend a long, wide, staircase to the entry of St Peter's Basilica. You pass the set of Holy Doors to the Basilica, only opened by the Pope on Jubilee years. Jubilee years are "regularly" every 25 years, but the Pope may declare any year to be an "Extraordinary Jubilee" as Pope Francis did when he declared a Jubilee in 2015-2016. There are four sets of Holy Doors in Rome, located at each of the Papal Basilicas. 

The other three sets are located at:

St Peter's Square

• St Lateran (Arcibasilica di San Giovanni in Laterno)
• St Paul Outside the Walls (San Paolo Fuori le Mure)
• St Mary Major (Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore) 

St Peter's square is much smaller in person than it appears on television, and more elegant. Swiss Guards are posted along the inner edge of the square and Italian Police freely patrol back and forth along both sides of the border between Vatican City and Italy. The street just beyond the square is filled with shops of all descriptions as well as cafes. If you're going to request an Uber, this is where you'll be picked up. There are many traffic flow restrictions, so pay close attention to the pick up area designated in your rideshare app.

Our dinner reservations this evening came at the recommendation of a co-worker who visited Rome on his honeymoon a few years ago. He placed Da Francesca at the top of his list and his assessment was accurate. We opted for an outside table on a cool and clear Halloween evening. Once again the quality of the food obliterated anything comparable we've ever had outside Rome. The wine list was extensive and diverse, I chose a Chianti – surprise – that was magnificent. We enjoyed young trick-or-treaters strolling up and down the street in costume all evening. My wife even pulled some candy out of her purse and distributed it among the costumed children seated at a nearby table. The children were thrilled to add a bit more candy to their collection, their parents were gracious, and it gave a couple of grandparents far from home a bit of a fix. 

Fontana del Bernini

North, to Alaska!

 To borrow from Johnny Horton (no, I didn't know his name without looking, just the catchy line from his song) we've booked a Vancouver departure for 2026 and opted for the post-cruise land add-on. Our thought process being that with everything on our list Alaska will probably be a "one-and-done" destination, so let's do as much as we can (within reason, of course.)

Ovation of the Seas

This will be a new destination and yet another new adventure - travel with my sibling and her husband. No kids, no parents. For a touch of irony, they booked an Alaska cruise for this year after hearing us talk about our (now rearranged) cruise. As I've previously noted, our trip was shuffled due to surgery. Well, their trip also befell what I'll simply refer to as "organizational challenges" and fell by the wayside. As I was contemplating plans for 2026 I looked at Alaska itineraries and discovered a similar trip to our original booking was about 1/3 less in cost.

Courtesy hold? Yes, Please!

Now, my wife is generally of the "just tell me how to pack and when we're leaving" mindset - but I wanted to let this simmer for a couple of days and give us both time to think. You know, at least pretend to be adult. I sent my sister an FYI email with the details of my hold and a note saying "This is what we're thinking about..."

They put a hold on an adjacent cabin.

After a proper conversation, which in reality consisted of "is there any reason we shouldn't?" I paid the deposit and informed my sister. She paid their deposit, and now the planning begins!

Rome - Colosseum & Roman Forum

30 October, 2024

Jet lag was still a challenge. Fortunately we weren't scheduled to meet our guide until 13:30!

By the time I was caffeinated enough to go out there were limited options for a bite of food. I grabbed a couple of slices from a counter service pizza shop down the block and brought them back to the room. The staff spoke enough English, and I speak enough Italian, that the transaction was straightforward. I really need to work on my Italian number vocabulary, that seems to be an area that DuoLingo glosses over. Being able to count to twenty or so usually provides a good grasp on the foundational aspects of numbering and would make most verbal transactions easier to navigate.

Beautiful weather, waiting for Fabio

We arrived at the designated meeting point a bit early and Fabio walked up at the appointed time as if he were drop-shipped from a catalog of handsome Italian guides. As we walked to the entrance of the Colosseum he unloaded a steady stream of information covering the exterior façade and the progression of construction and reconstruction over the centuries. Grasping the scope of the venue in the context of the era it was built can be a challenge. Construction began in 72AD and it was used for approximately 350 years. An estimated 400,000 people perished in the name of bloodsport entertainment, including gladiators, slaves, prisoners, convicts, and other entertainers. There were multiple seating levels, designated entry points (the Emperor had his own) labeled sections, and a ticketing system based on engraved tokens. The sewers under the Colosseum have been extensively excavated, producing bones from victims, animals used for battle, and smaller animals likely served as meals/concessions to spectators. Tokens, hair combs, saucers, and bowls among myriad other items. 

Modern "lion" housing

While animals are no longer used for entertainment at the Colosseum, they do maintain vicious cats on premise who participate in bloodsport; roaming the structure in search of vermin.

Displays along the concourse illustrate the system of elevators, hatches, and access ports that were used by participants to enter the arena floor. Excavations around the Colosseum have revealed a tunnel leading from an area outside the arena that was used by the gladiators to prepare before their battles. It can be challenging to imagine what life was like in early Rome, especially as we walk around taking photos of ancient ruins with modern smartphones, carrying bottles of fresh water that are conveniently filled from public fountains from the 1870's.

Roman Forum

We exited the Colosseum and walked across a small plaza to the entrance of the Roman Forum. The
Forum is a collection of ruins surrounding the ancient city center (Forum) where speeches, trials, exhibitions, and gladiator matches were held. It was surrounded by monuments and statues. The area fell into disrepair after about the eighth century, and many structures were scavenged for materials to build new structures. In the 1300's the area was used as a dumping ground, and in the 1500's materials were appropriated for the construction of St Peter's Basilica. Fabio worked on the excavation of the Forum as a university student and was able to point to several items that he excavated. After being measured, photographed, and cataloged, most of the artifacts were re-buried, as it is the most economical method of preservation. The elevation changes are largely due to citizens simply covering up debris over generations, adding layer upon layer. Examples of this can be seen in almost every ancient city. Grasping the transformation of the area and the centuries-long period that it took place is daunting for those of us who live in a country where very little is more than 200 years old.

We bid good evening to Fabio and made plans for meeting him the next day for our Vatican tour. A quick Uber back to the hotel gave us plenty of time to unburden ourselves of our sightseeing regalia and freshen up for dinner, which comes with a story going back several months.

One of the best parts of my job as a paramedic is meeting people. Most of our patients are not dealing with immediate life threats, so we often have an opportunity for conversation. In the spring of 2024 I responded to a patient with a chronic condition who needed to go to the hospital. I noticed that most of the wines in their rack were Italian, and asked his wife if those were their favorite wines. I also mentioned that I was traveling to Rome in the fall. A smile appeared on her face, she grabbed my arm, and said "You HAVE to go to Roscioli for dinner, it's our absolute favorite!" So, on the way to the hospital, I asked her husband for more information. His eyes lit up, a smile consumed his previously drawn face, and he said "Ah, Roscioli, you'll love it." He shared his favorite menu items, and emphasized that I should have the Cacio e Pepe. I made notes and thanked him for his advice. He spoke about Rome the entire time he was in my care.

Several weeks later we were back. It was my partner's turn (we flip-flop from one call to the next) but I took this call since I was familiar with the situation. His wife asked me how our plans were progressing, and the patient began glowing when I told him Roscioli was on my list and we were looking forward to visiting.

Hamburger di Mozzarella di Bufala

Fast forward to the end of October. I tried for several days to get reservations at "The" Roscioli, but wasn't having any luck. Their other locations had limited availability, and Tuesday night I was in the middle of claiming a table for Wednesday evening when I fell asleep with my phone in my hand. I woke up an hour later to complete disappointment. There were no reservations available at any of their locations for the rest of the week. While we were waiting for Fabio at the Colosseum I checked for reservations, just in case, and there was a table for two at "The" Roscioli, for 19:00 – SCORE!

We arrived about 15 minutes before our reservation and joined the line. Everyone was happy to be there and the crowd was about half American from what I could determine. The doors opened promptly at 19:00 and a young lady with a clipboard checked off names and directed a server where to seat them. Our table was in the basement/wine cellar, and we were surrounded by friendly tables, two of which were occupied by people from North Carolina – go figure.

Our appetizer was off-the-charts scrumptious. Every element was perfect. The sauce, the ham, the tomatoes (and I'm not a huge fan of tomatoes that aren't in a sauce) and the cheese came together to build a perfect bite. If the portion were less generous it may have well triggered a domestic disturbance.

I selected a nice bottle of Chianti to accompany our meal. My wife selected the La Matriciana O Amatreciana to compare to the dish she had the night before. They were both pasta, with red sauce and pork. That's about as far as the comparison goes. If Roscioli's Amatreciana was Wagyu beef then the night before it was a ribeye from The Sizzler. It was absolutely spectacular.

I had the Cacio e Pepe. I've never had the dish before, but I felt compelled to order it due to the strong endorsement it was given by my patient. 

He was not wrong. It's a simple and subtle dish that is deceptively elegant. As I savored each bite I thought of the kind-eyed gentleman who set me on this path, and I toasted to his good taste.

When you're in a good restaurant in Italy then tiramisu is the obvious dessert choice, and Roscioli probably makes the best tiramisu I've ever tasted. Again, the portion size averted a domestic dispute.

Campo dé Fiori

After dinner we thought it would be nice to walk off a few calories. The restaurant isn't in an area that lends itself to being picked up by a ride service, so we took a casual stroll over to Campo dé Fiori, which was active but not crowded. I requested an Uber from there and we returned to the hotel.

That evening I looked up my restaurant advisor and discovered that he passed away over the summer. I was saddened to read the news, but I was thankful that I was able to enjoy his favorite dish at his favorite restaurant in his honor. I don't know that I'll ever eat Cacio e Pepe again without thinking of him and our conversations of Rome.

Castel Sant'Angelo

 Future Plans

USPS Photo

One thing I've learned over the years, if you're not willing to adapt to schedule changes then travel probably isn't your thing. I still get a bit wound-up when I'm traveling with others and there's a major glitch - not because I'm inconvenienced, but because I don't want others to suffer discomfort. Sometimes we're lucky enough for the changes to come well in advance, sometimes they happen in the moment - while you're at the gate or when you arrive at the venue. We try to keep things moving, making plans on the cusp of published schedules.

On our Panama Canal cruise (fall 2023) we booked an Alaska cruise for this August (2025) only to have hip surgery make an August trip impossible. So the 2025 Alaska cruise became a November Caribbean cruise. Thanks to a bit of good fortune with the reservations department this was accomplished with minimal hassle.

On our 2024 trans-Atlantic crossing (Civitavecchia to NYC) we booked the return for the spring of 2026 (NYC to Barcelona) It appears there may be a conflict brewing with that itinerary, so we're in the process of shuffling the deck again - moving the NY-Europe trip to the spring of 2027 and booking an Alaska trip for August of 2026.

Flexibility.

So far, all of this chaos is going to cost us $200 and $50 on-board credit. Do I enjoy dropping $200? Certainly not - but that's a lot less than if we hadn't booked onboard with NextCruise with their reduced deposits.

So this is what we have on the calendar at the moment:

• November 2025 – Caribbean cruise
• July 2026 – Alaska cruise 
• December 2026 – Caribbean (New Year's with all the kids)
• Spring 2027 – Trans-Atlantic? (NY-Europe)
• Spring 2028 – European river cruise

There are other small trips sprinkled here and there, and rough outlines for Antarctic, Arctic Circle, Trans-Pacific, Australia and SE Asia destinations on the board.

Lots to see and experience.

Stay tuned.

Rome - Cinquecento and Pasta

29 October, 2024

St Peter's by morning

When I began planning for this trip I wanted to maximize our experience in Rome, given the time we had available. I called our wonderful friend Henrietta Ferguson and asked for her help. We met Henrietta in 2007 when she guided us on an amazing tour of Oxford College and Blenheim Palace. We found her listed as a "Harry Potter" specialist, and we thought that connection would be an excellent way to engage our kids (13  and 11 at the time) and draw them in to the long history represented by the buildings and institutions we were visiting. Six years later Henrietta helped our daughter plan her senior research project on Henry VIII and the Tudors. (An extensive trip that we haven't managed to backtrack and fill-in – fortunately I have LOTS of notes to help when I make it to that spot on the timeline.) During that trip, in 2014, we met Henrietta's family and our friendship was cast. In the years since we have visited London several times, and Henrietta's family has been our guest at the beach. She is beyond compare both professionally and personally. The old saying "you get what you pay for" was never truer than when applied to a bespoke tour from Henrietta Ferguson Tours.

Cinquecento & Me

In an effort to overcome jet lag I thought we should spend most of the day outside, exposed to sunlight, but doing something that didn't require a lot of energy or effort. Henrietta responded to that thought/request with a personalized driving tour in an antique Fiat 500 – simply "Cinquecento" to Italians. Fair warning, the original Fiat 500 is significantly smaller than the current Fiat 500 model. For reference, I'm 5' 9" tall...

Alessandra picked us up in the lobby of our hotel at the appointed time, we loaded into the car and began our tour of Rome. With a whopping 18 hp and a 0-50 time of just under 36 seconds you don't need to be concerned about acceleration whiplash. Alessandra is a delightful lady, full of energy and information with a radiant smile; her English is excellent with a delightful Italian accent. 

Our first stop was Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi, the highest point in Rome. We parked and walked around the plaza, taking in the views from the Passeggiata del Gianicolo and enjoying the wonderful weather. We departed the plaza and continued over the hill, looping around past the Fontana dell'Acqua Paola and over to Via Nicolò Piccolomini to see the anamorphic illusion of St Peter's Dome. After driving up and down the via a few times we retraced our route, headed for the Piazza Fiorenzo Fiorentini. 

Basilica di Santa Sabina

There we saw our first Roman fountain and our first ring-necked parakeets. We also experienced another anamorphic illusion. This Piazza is just up the block from the Aventine Keyhole, where you can see two nation-states and one country in a single view. As you peer through the keyhole you see an extra-territorial state belonging to the Knights of Malta, which was granted status in the 1100's. While it is within Italy, it is not legally part of Italy. Then you see Italy with the Dome of St Peter's Basilica in the distance, which is in Vatican City, which is a nation-state and also not Italy, despite being in Italy. We visited the Basilica di Santa Sabina all'Aventino, one of the oldest churches in Rome, built between 422 and 440. We drank from the fountain before folding ourselves back in the Cinquecento and zipping off through town, past the Basilica Papale di San Paolo Fuori le Mura (The Basilica of St Peter Outside the Walls) – one of the four major Papal Basilicas, and on to our next stop, Parco Centrale del Lago, for a bit of refreshment. After a short break we wound our way through afternoon traffic, back to our hotel, and bid Alessandra a fond arrivederci. I spent most of the return trip trying to reserve a table for dinner at several different restaurants, none of which produced results. I spotted a couple of restaurants near our hotel earlier in the day when I went to the ATM, so we decided to give one of them a go. Despite a relatively short day we were still struggling and the path of least resistance seemed the wise choice.

Amatriciana

We walked around the corner from the hotel and surveyed menus and we parried the sidewalk salesmen. (First rule of the Rome restaurant scene – good restaurants don't have people pulling customers off the street.) Our selection was Ristrot San Pietro, which we found to be surprisingly good. One of the nearby tables was occupied by an older couple who appeared to be regulars, based on their interaction with staff. I took this as a sign that it wasn't purely a tourist trap. We ordered a bruschetta appetizer that turned out to be one of the better examples that we've ever eaten. Not the best, but definitely in the top five. Our selections for mains were carbonara and amatriciana – both of which were properly sauced and quite tasty. Portions were hefty by European standards, but not excessive. Service was reasonable, but not spectacular. The servers were easily distracted by trying to fill empty tables with passers-by. While there are many amazing restaurants to choose from in Rome, if you find yourself without a reservation this establishment is a good selection as a bail-out spot.