Pro Tip: Packing

The executive summary for 95% of us: You overpacked. No, not just a little, we're talking "Why did I bother to bring all this?" overpacked.

Efficient packing for a trip thousands of miles from home is as much art as science. If you think you can manage, follow the advice of the experts and pack a small rucksack for a two week adventure across three countries. I've been traveling for over 40 of my 50 years and can't imagine subjecting others to the degree of funk that would represent. I also don't want to spend an inordinate amount of time doing laundry in the hotel sink every evening. By the same token, you don't need 3 spare sets of everything for that same two week outing. Ultimately you have to find your own balance, but do yourself a favor and tip the balance the other way on occasion to test yourself. You'll survive and so will everyone else, you'll just be a bit wiser the next time. I achieved my most efficient packing to-date on my recent trip to London. The schedule was shredded and my luggage arrived a couple of days after I did, so I came home with clean clothes, but not by much.

Here's my approach. I don't claim that it's perfect, but it's much closer to perfect than no plan at all (which will only result in an over-stuffed, and likely overweight, suitcase.)

• Undergarments and shirt to wear home. It seems odd to address this first, but having fresh clothes to put on the morning of departure can do wonders for your disposition at the end of a trip. Set them aside and don't touch them unless you encounter a complete disaster. If you know you'll have access to laundry facilities you can be more flexible, but even then I tend to stick by this rule "just in case."
• Socks: I have a strange formula, but it can be reduced to this: Six pair for the first week, five for the second week, four for the third week. Socks can be a pain to wash and dry in a hotel but easy to recycle if you have access to a washer/dryer. The type of sock/stocking you wear can have a significant impact on your needs. I tend to wear more cotton/polyester blends, so washing isn't a viable option in many cases. If you have malodorous feet you may need a more pairs, if your feet emit lavender and sandalwood aromas you can get away with fewer pairs. Time of year (temperature) is also a contributing factor. If you're traveling more than three weeks without access to laundry you're probably backpacking, and none of this makes any sense.
• Trousers: This is where the time of year becomes a significant factor. During cooler months I assume I'll be able to get three days of wear without concern. In warmer months two days may be a stretch, depending upon the particulars. These are the times you can do a lot with a small bottle of Febreeze and a fan. Staying with neutral color selections is a tremendous help. If it's a "one time only" pair then it probably needs to stay home.
• Shirts: More dependencies on weather. In cooler months I always plan to layer shirts and sweaters. I select neutral sweaters that can be combined with whichever shirts I've packed to give multiple different looks. If it's warm I lean towards synthetic/technical fabrics that tend to be more odor resistant and quick drying, in case I need to do a sink wash. Even when the temperatures are moderate places like subways and trains can be stifling in some places.
• Shoes: Unless I have a compelling reason to go light I always take two pair for any trip longer than a week. After a few days of walking in one pair my feet do better with a change of pace.
• Outerwear: If it's cold enough to be a concern I pack a light beanie and gloves, then wear or carry a coat and scarf. It's a bit more to keep track of en route, but you save room in your suitcase.
• Toiletries: In these days of luggage fees and ever changing weight limits I suggest either travel-sized items (purchased or pack-at-home) or, in some cases, purchasing upon arrival. A little research can be of tremendous benefit here. In any event, take only what you're likely to need and leave the warehouse-store-sized product at home.

If you have something new to wear every day then you have too much, that I can assure you. Take your time and don't get in a hurry to maximize your odds of packing effectively. Do all you can to avoid putting ANYTHING in your suitcase because your reason is either:

1. "I might need it, so I'll take it just in case."
2. "I can't decide, so I'll just take it anyway."

The odds are exceptionally high that you WILL NOT need it, and you're perfectly capable of making the decision now.

No Place Like Home

16 April, 2017

A glorious visit was capped off by a memorable morning, weather-wise. Sunday dawned bright and clear, which isn't unheard of for London but certainly goes against the stereotype of persistent fog and rain. It was a Sunday, and even London has a slow, lazy feel one day of the week.

We bid the staff at The Harrington farewell once again as our driver from Eddie Manning loaded the abundant luggage in the van for the trek to Heathrow. Thanks to plentiful reward miles, we were headed to the Virgin Atlantic Upper Class Wing for drop off, which makes departure absolutely painless. (This service is available to Delta passengers as well as Virgin Atlantic, depending upon class of service and loyalty status.)

We ended up with an additional bag, thanks to a combination of reducing the inventory of our son's dorm and a bit of additional shopping. It was a pleasant surprise when the agent simply tagged all our bags, handed over our boarding cards, and sent us on our way to the dedicated security checkpoint. A reasonably painless trip through security and a quick stop at the U.K. Customs desk for validation of our VAT refund forms was followed by a scavenger hunt to locate the "correct" duty-free desk (which turned out to be a wild-goose chase, thanks to misinformation provided by the representative at Liberty the day prior.) After walking all over the duty-free area (thanks to incorrect signage) and standing in line unnecessarily I deposited the forms in the mail box just across from the Customs desk, where I started ~20 minutes prior. UGH!

With all the housekeeping details complete, we headed off to the Virgin Atlantic Upper Class Lounge for a bite to eat while we waited for our flight to be called. As we expected based on our experience last September, the lounge staff was attentive and efficient. We had about an hour before boarding, so that gave us the opportunity to get things in order while enjoying a pot of tea. When the flight was called we made the short walk to the gate and were settled in to our seats in a matter of minutes.

The flight was smooth and hassle-free, arriving in Atlanta on time where the customs lines were long. Our huge stack of luggage and lack of anything to declare caught the attention of an officer, but he was more than satisfied that we were beginning to move our son home from London. The Atlanta security checkpoint was the usual mess, with no accommodation for those holding TSA Pre-Check status.

After a reasonable layover we were on our final flight home and welcomed a night's rest in our own bed!

2017 New Years Eve Fireworks in London

Tickets for the 2017 New Years Eve Fireworks in London are now on sale!

The only way to enter one of the riverside viewing areas is to have tickets. Check out the details at www.london.gov.uk/nye - tickets are £10 each and individuals may purchase a maximum of four. If you're planning to visit London for New Year's it is well worth the effort required. Make sure you select to pick up your tickets at the Trafalgar Square booth if you don't have a UK address for mail delivery, as there is no guarantee that you'll receive them via mail in the USA prior to your departure.

Last Day in London

15 April, 2017

Tying up loose ends was the order of the day. First we headed over to Liberty, in search of a couple more skeins of yarn to match some acquired earlier in the trip. A manager was summoned to sort out a glitch with the register and he tempted us with some absolutely fantastic chocolate truffles shaped like eggs. His sneaky salesmanship led us downstairs to the candy department, where we ended up being plied with even more samples. We finally escaped with a small bag full of delectable delights and proceeded on our quest for additional items on our checklist.

Just out the back door and down the passage is one of my new favorite pubs, The Clachan. With a line-up of ten cask ales to choose from you can have an epic pub crawl and only walk as far as from your seat to the bar. The atmosphere is open and lively with a fair mix of locals and tourists. Warnings are posted to beware of thieves and pickpockets (they love tipsy tourists who don't keep track of their belongings) so keep your wits about you, just in case. If you have someone in your crowd who is keen to do some shopping at Liberty this is an excellent place to drop anchor and have a pint or three in a pleasant atmosphere while you wait.

A specific type of souvenir was on the list, which led us to the tourist tchotchke mecca of Piccadilly Circus. If you look at a map it appears to be a trek from Oxford Circus to Piccadilly Circus, but in reality it's a leisurely stroll of about ten minutes or so. There will probably be crowds, regardless of the day. As previously mentioned, keep your wits about you and maintain control of your belongings. Since I'm not terribly souvenir-centric and the shops were crowded I did a bit more "research" and located a nearby pub that I was previously unfamiliar with. (Pro Tip: If you need a restroom, pop in to a pub and grab a pint, problem solved! Alternatively, if you need a pint, just use the restroom as an excuse to go in the pub.) The St. James Tavern was a bit crowded with a large percentage of tourists, which isn't surprising given the proximity to Piccadilly Circus. If your pub-fu is anywhere above novice level the staff will breathe a sigh of relief over not having to repeat the same tutorial for the eleventy-hundreth time today. They have several cask ales available at any given time as well as an assortment of lagers and ciders, so you should be able to find something to suit your taste.



Laden with packages (and wondering how I was going to re-pack to accommodate the new purchases) we made our way back to the hotel to drop off everything and freshen up before dinner. When something works why mess with it? As has become a London tradition for us at this point, we made dinner reservations at Côte for our final night. If you're a regular reader you have probably seen previous reviews and comments from prior trips and understand why we keep coming back. If you're a new reader, thanks for joining us, here's a summary!

Côte is, simply, one of those things that is just "right" in the world. Amazingly well done French cuisine served by uniformly convivial staff, offered with an approachable wine list at budget-friendly prices. This is still London, so "inexpensive" is an adjective reserved for rare situations. Côte isn't inexpensive (That's a £4 meal deal at Tesco) but it is quite affordable and represents exceptional value. Many locations attract a large pre-theater crowd, so I suggest dining later or making reservations (which are generally easy to obtain if you don't wait until the last minute.)

Visiting Family on Vacation

14 April, 2017

We took advantage of the kitchen in our flat and prepared our own breakfast instead of going out. After a leisurely morning we headed back over to Islington to clarify some pressing knitting questions at Loop. Such an extended foray left me parched <cough> so I wandered back to The York in order to quench my thirst with a pint (maybe two, but who's counting?) If you haven't read my previous entries about the neighborhood the summary is this: Loop is a charming shop staffed by delightful people and The York is a solid pub with affable staff and a nice selection of beers to choose from as well as some tasty menu items.

After a couple of hours in Islington we returned to the hotel to drop off our bags before skipping over to Mayfair for dinner. My sister was in town for a few days, so we met her at Burger & Lobster (yes, our second visit this trip.) Since we tried new menu items the first visit this trip (which were quite good, but not as good as our favorites) we opted for the original lobster rolls this time, and they met our high expectations. My sister had the bun-less burger and raved over it. She can be a bit picky and reserves high praise only for things that are truly exceptional - she ended up returning for another burger a few days later before she left London.

Yes, it is that good.

After a leisurely (and tasty) dinner a short tube ride had us back at Gloucester Rd. Since my opportunities for rich, creamy, Guinness and cask-conditioned ales were growing scarce I sent my wife on to the hotel, and I went across the street to The Hereford Arms for a pint before calling it a night. Yes, there is a difference between what it served here and what is served across the pond.

Best Laid Plans Fall Apart

13 April, 2017

Thursday morning broke as a typical spring day in London, slightly chilly and overcast. We didn't have much of an agenda and thought it would be enjoyable to stroll through Westminster Abbey. Although we've visited a number of times over the years there isn't a shortage of things to see and learn. A quick check of Google indicated that Thursdays were typically less crowded than other days of the week, so we hopped on the tube and headed over to Westminster.

When we exited the station the first thing we noticed were the barricades across the street put in place after the March terrorist attack on Westminster bridge, the next thing we noticed was the increased number of heavily armed Metropolitan Police officers in the area. Just across from the site of the attack in Parliament Square Garden a makeshift memorial for the victims.

As it turns out, Google didn't consider the additional traffic generated by a holiday week. There were two lines outside the Abbey, each stretching a couple hundred feet from the entrance. Since we weren't interested in using a significant amount of our day waiting in line we went around to the gift shop to look for a couple of items, took a few photos, and then decided to head over to Borough Market for lunch at two of our favorite spots.

 If you've read through the older archives of this blog you're already familiar with the object of my desire at Borough Market. Scotch Eggs from Scotchtails are simply amazing. They have been gracious enough to share their cooking technique and I hope to have an opportunity to try and replicate their divine creation in the near future. Look for them under the green umbrellas near Southwark Cathedral. If there's a queue don't let it put you off, they keep a steady stream of production and I've never had to wait more than a few minutes to be served.


In my opinion the other can't miss item is the toasted cheese sandwich from Kappacasein Dairy. They've graduated from the green umbrellas to a permanent shop on Stoney Street, just next to the Southwark Tavern. This isn't your father's grilled cheese sandwich. A blend of artisan cheeses enhanced by a sprinkling of leeks is toasted between two slices of the most amazing hand-cut bread you've likely ever experienced. While the queues don't move as quickly here as they do for scotch eggs, let me assure you that the wait is well worth the reward!

They also offer Raclette, which is, in its most basic form, melted cheese over boiled potatoes. (A cousin of poutine, if you will - same primary ingredients, different presentation.) The queue for Raclette is generally comparable to that for toasted cheese, so apparently they've got something going there as well. For me, I'll stick with the sandwich, thanks!

After lunch we caught the tube to Oxford Circus so we could stop by Liberty for a few odds-and-ends, primarily fabric requested by friends at home.

Between travel and shopping a fair amount of time passed, so we opted to grab afternoon tea in Café Liberty, which is one of our favorite places and an exceptional value. A large pot of tea with scones fresh from the oven, jam, and clotted cream is £10.95. They will gladly refill your teapot with hot water for a second steeping, and the quality of the tea is such that I can vouch that the English Breakfast holds up well. When they are busy it can take a few minutes to get the bill, so plan accordingly if you are under any scheduling pressure.

The rest of the afternoon was spent with our feet up in anticipation of meeting friends for dinner at Rocca, just down from the South Kensington tube station. If you're interested in a restaurant in good favor with locals and of low tourist density then you may want to give them a try. All our dishes were quite good, and our party covered the better part of the menu.

Dachau, Neuschwanstein, back to London

9 April, 2017

Sunday we booked a tour to Dachau with Radius Tours (they have an office in the Hauptbahnhof that offers guided tours to local attractions as well as bicycle rentals.) The fee is reasonable and includes all transportation between Munich and Dachau. I used them several years ago, so giving them repeat business should be an indication of my opinion of their operation.

My first visit to Dachau was in 2012, on a dreary day in March. Seeing it under clear, sunny skies on a pleasant April afternoon was quite a contrast and created quite an emotional paradox. To see flowers blooming and hear birds chirping under blue skies while immersed in a place of such profound human pain and suffering gives you plenty to contemplate.

While there was ample death and suffering at Dachau, it was not considered a death camp, but rather a research facility used as a prototype for other, more specialized, camps. There were camps used primarily for extermination. Dachau was an incubator, where various forms of torture or extermination were conceived, then these methods were implemented in other camps. Many of the notorious SS and Gestapo henchmen got their start at Dachau before being deployed to other locations, usually to implement the inhumane policies and processes they contrived. Until the end of the war Dachau and approximately 30 sub-camps in the area supplied labor at local factories for armament production, their overall goal being to extract maximum effort on minimum input to achieve the greatest efficiency of resources.

Visiting a concentration camp memorial site is a mentally taxing endeavor. I don't recommend planning to do much afterwards, as you will most likely be distracted by your thoughts. Following our own advice we opted for an early dinner back at Gaststätte Bavaria and an equally early turn-in in preparation for our visit to Neuschwanstein on Monday.

10 April, 2017
Neuschwanstein is an idyllic destination, commonly known in the U.S.A. as the "Cinderella Castle." This is a reasonable moniker, as of the eight or so European castles and chateaux that inspired the Disney design team Neuschwanstein had the most recognizable presentation in the finished product.

There are a multitude of options to choose from when making plans to get to Schwangau, everything from buses and trains to car services - there is something for every budget. No matter which option you choose I highly recommend pre-booking your tickets online. There is a small service fee, but the minimal added expense will save you considerable time at the ticket counter. When we visited the regular ticket queue was nearly an hour long. I waited less than five minutes to pick up our tickets. Entry is timed, so make sure your pre-booked tickets coincide with your travel plans. (More on timing in a moment.)
We were fortunate to have a local friend pick us up in Munich and drive us the hour and a half or so to Schwangau. Taking a road trip in a foreign country can be an enlightening experience, especially if you're familiar with road trips at home. Having a source of local knowledge to draw from was a tremendous benefit as well, but unfortunately it didn't help us avoid the vagaries of getting to the top of the hill for our tour.

There are three options to get from the ticket center to the castle. In order of cost (least to most) and effort required (most to least) they are:

• Walking
• Bus
• Horse-drawn Carriage

If you have an abundance of time and are in good to excellent physical condition then walking is certainly a viable option. I don't suggest choosing to walk simply to save a few Euros, you'll arrive at the top quite spent and probably a little annoyed. The bus is a reasonable compromise, but still leaves a bit of a walk at the top of the hill. The carriages get you as close to the castle as possible and still present a bit of an uphill walk, but it's quite manageable for most everyone who is reasonably mobile. Keep in mind that you will climb several flights of stairs after your tour of the castle begins and factor that in to your planning as well.

We chose the carriage and queued up for a ride an hour before our designated tour time, as suggested. It wasn't enough time due to the schedule of horse teams being swapped out. (Each team of horses only works a couple of hours, completing about four round-trips, with a water break at the top each time.) As it worked out, we arrived at the castle 15 minutes after our designated time and had to be re-booked on a later tour. Rescheduling is done on a space-available basis and you must visit the service desk (to the right inside the main castle entrance) to make arrangements. I suggest you queue up at least 1.5, if not 2 hours prior to your scheduled admission time, to make sure you're not tardy. There is a restaurant and snack bars "up top" in case you find yourself with excess time prior to your tour.

Overall, the spectacular views and sheer other-worldliness aspect of the castle are well worth the effort required to make the journey. However, I will say that the tour was a bit underwhelming and left us wanting for more detail. You're delivered a bit of a Cliff's Notes summary and, while I appreciate a novella wouldn't be practical, something akin to a nice short story would have been more satisfactory.

While you may be tempted to walk down after your tour, keep in mind that walking down a reasonably steep grade can be quite a challenge, especially after you're already tired. The carriage ride down is less expensive than the ride up and gives you a chance to catch your breath before tracking down your car or bus at the bottom, which are guaranteed to require walking.

We returned to Munich and descended on a long-time favorite, Augustiner-Keller, for dinner. The main hall was filled with energy, thanks to the music provided by a traditional band. We had a wonderful evening of conversation, good food and (as always) excellent beer. Unfortunately, we were told that they were out of starkbier (Maximator) - which was absolutely crushing!

11 April, 2017

After the exertion of the trip to Schwangau we decided Tuesday would be a good day to do a little casual shopping.  There were several knitting/sewing shops in central Munich my wife wanted to visit and the Viktualienmarkt was in full swing. (Oh, to have a kitchen and time to cook - the fresh produce was staggering!) Given the strength of the dollar vs. the euro we decided it was an excellent time to invest in a cuckoo clock and spent a fair amount of time selecting one that was interesting without being over-the-top with respect to music and activity. The VAT refund was a bit more than the cost of shipping, so we opted for delivery vs. attempting to transport it home on the airplane.

When we decided it was time for an afternoon snack we stopped by a favorite location, Zum Augustiner, for beer and obazder, a delectable cheese dip served with pretzels. Much to our surprise we were informed that Maximator was available, so we were able to enjoy a liter after all!

While we were in Munich I attempted to pre-pay for our return luggage on the Lufthansa website. Unfortunately their system didn't provide this functionality because I booked the tickets on a third-party service. Attempts to contact their customer service were unsuccessful as well. A complete failure with respect to customer service in that regard.

12 April, 2017
Wednesday we returned to London. Once again Munich airport security was thorough (my belt triggered the metal detector, cue thorough pat-down and hand-swab for explosive residue) but we were quickly on our way to the gate. Had we realized that the "gate" consisted of several flights of stairs to a bus loading platform we would have taken a different approach. Another ding against Lufthansa customer service. Fortunately I had been aware that my wife was fatigued from all the walking, so arrangements for Eddie Manning to pick us up at Heathrow were already confirmed (much to her surprise.) Our flight was uneventful, and we were quickly through immigration & customs and on our way back to The Harrington.

We enjoyed dinner at the Kensington Spaghetti House, one of our local standbys for a solid, uncomplicated meal. After a quick stop at Waitrose for a few necessities we called it a night.

On to Munich!

7 April, 2017

For our son's spring break we took a side trip to Munich for a few days and Friday was "moving day" courtesy of Lufthansa. I purposely avoided budget carriers such as EasyJet as I wasn't willing to go with a completely stripped-down airline. Unfortunately I booked the tickets on CheapFlights and received less than complete information.

Never again.

CheapFlights said we each got a checked bag. Lufthansa said not, based on the class of fare purchased. Mark one up to experience and strike CheapFlights off the list of travel planning resources, better to go directly to the airlines and know exactly what you're getting.

As you'd probably expect from a ("the"?) German carrier, the crew was efficient and the aircraft was spotless and in impeccable repair. We did have a delayed departure due to air traffic issues, but that was the only operational glitch we encountered. Arrival in Munich required a bus transfer from the parking pad to the terminal (not unusual for many international airports) so plan accordingly if that might present a problem for you.

German immigration was predictably efficient and courteous, and after a quick stop at a ticket kiosk (make sure you select your desired language before beginning) we boarded the S-Bahn to the Munich Hauptbahnhof. If you're going to central Munich there are a couple of options, one being a couple of stops closer than the other depending upon your exact destination. It's not really an issue unless you are under time pressure, it's just something to be aware of.

This trip we returned to the Hotel Jedermann, just a few blocks walk (or a short trolley ride when it's in service) down Bayerstraße from the Hbf. It's also in close proximity to Theresienwiese, the site of Oktoberfest. Having stayed here a few years ago we were familiar with the area and knew we could expect a clean & comfortable room with breakfast included at a reasonable rate. After checking in we enjoyed a traditional dinner just down the block at Gaststätte Bavaria. They serve Augustiner, which is our favorite Munich beer, with tasty dishes and decadent desserts, so it's a solid choice. As is the case with many restaurants in Munich, cash is preferred over cards, so plan accordingly. After salads and an assortment of tasty schnitzel variations we shared an apple strudel that was simply to die for.

Pro Tip: If you're not a hard-core beer enthusiast order a Radler, it's half beer, half lemony soda. Locals drink them as often as visitors, so no one with think anything of it.

8 April, 2017
Saturday was a raucous day; Borussia Dortmund was in town for a match with Bayern-Munich. Fans of both teams filled the city, each attired in their respective team colors and exchanging good-natured barbs and jeers at every turn. We strolled from Karlsplatz to Marienplatz, amazed at the size and abundance of white asparagus offered for sale along the way. There were also several street musicians performing with instruments ranging from accordions to a grand piano.
We ended up at Hofbräuhaus for lunch so that my wife could have
the full "beer hall" experience. Given the high profile soccer match even the Stammtisch (regular tables) were packed. We were lucky enough to find a table rather quickly in a remote corner, adjacent to a diverse group of Dortmund fans who were having great fun. They ranged in age from young adults to grandfathers, drinking and eating while offering good-natured harassment to any Bayern-Munich fans who happened to walk past their table. In most cases they would recite the B-M chant and cackle loudly in amusement as the opposition responded in similar fashion. We shared a large pretzel as an appetizer and, as usual, ended up ordering too much food. Fortunately we were well entertained by the enthusiastic fans and had plenty of beer available, so we were able to linger over our meals for an extended length of time. While Hofbräu can be a bit touristy they have a huge local following and the beer and food are quite good. The atmosphere is unlike anything you're likely to experience in the U.S.A. which puts it on the list of must-visit places in Munich.

After lunch we spent a bit of time visiting the Frauenkirche before trying to find a place to watch the football match on television. Eventually we landed at a sports bar and found a corner to stand in. Lesson learned - when planning your trip don't ignore the schedule for major sporting events. Had we realized in advance we would have booked a table somewhere (or even tried to get tickets) and had an even better experience. As it turned out we ended up meeting three other Americans - a gentleman in town on business and two young adults touring Europe on a two-week vacation. After Bayern-Munich trounced Dortmund 4-1 we were quite hungry. The young couple were headed to Hofbräu and we didn't have any better prospects, so we joined them for dinner.

Portable hydration station designed by a Bayern-Munich fan

All-in-all a wonderful example of enjoying a city and culture without a set agenda. We took in the sights, sounds, and abundant energy (supplied thanks to the raucous crowds of football fans) and just went with the flow. It was the epitome of my new philosophy of experiencing as opposed to just "seeing."

Buckingham Palace Opens for the Season

It took me 30 years after my first visit to tour the State Rooms at Buckingham Palace.

If you're in London during their opening season (generally late July-end of September) it's well worth your time. An audio guide is included and a special exhibition is part of the tour. (In 2016 The Queen's wardrobe was featured, in 2017 Royal Gifts are displayed.) After the conclusion of the interior tour you get to enjoy a long walk through the gardens to the exit. If the weather is nice you'd be hard pressed to find a better stroll. The exit is at the far end of the gardens, just down from Hyde Park Corner. They have just opened for this year and will remain open until October 1.
(click on the image below for more details)

If at all possible I cannot over-emphasize the convenience you'll enjoy by pre-booking your tickets. For all intents and purposes it reduces your queuing time to mere minutes, while others will be waiting for well over thirty minutes, if not an hour or more at peak times.

Time for a Pub Crawl! (Shocking, I know!)

6 April, 2017

If you're new to my blog this might be a twist, but for those who have followed along our journeys in the past, my affinity for beer (and English ales in particular) is well known. Based on geographic concerns and taking in to account some sort of meaningful connection we embarked on a crawl designed primarily around pubs well-known for their culinary offerings, with a couple of touristy-boozers tossed in to fill the gaps. There are nearly limitless ways to plan a crawl in London. Some will follow the "90 second rule" which says you can only walk for 90 seconds between pubs (believe me, there are plenty of places that this rule can be applied.) Others will choose a theme (old, new, assorted affiliations) and others will simply follow a route or choose an area. I lean towards planning a route while preferring older pubs with a bit of history, so the gastro pub focus of this crawl was a bit of a departure. Absolutely amazing weather on this April day rendered the destinations somewhat moot, as it was enjoyable walking about London with friends and having an excuse to drink a few pints.

Our group of intrepid adventurers started at the Holland Park tube station and headed for the Ladbroke Arms, a neighborhood pub that is nicely decorated (in typical London-pub fashion with abundant hanging baskets. If the weather is agreeable their outdoor terrace is a fantastic place to enjoy a pint, and if you're looking for a meal their seasonal menu is certainly worthy of your consideration. The kitchen does close for a few hours between lunch and dinner service, so take that under consideration when making dining plans. The Ladbroke was refurbished in 2016, but wasn't remodeled, so it still maintains it's age-old charm.

After enjoying our first pint we headed towards Notting Hill Gate tube station, which is just across the street from our second stop, The Prince Albert. Sporting a nice selection of ales as well as other beers, the indoor area may appear a bit crowded, especially on days that the Portobello Road market is open just down the way. Walk through the back door and check out the generous hidden courtyard. Some parts are covered by awnings and umbrellas, presenting options even when the weather may be less than perfect. We opted for a snack at this stop and the fish & chips (with thrice-fried chips) scored high marks. The scotch eggs were a bit inconsistent, with one being a bit overcooked, but the properly cooked portion was quite tasty.

A fair walk down Kensington Church Street delivered us to stop number three, The Churchill Arms. This pub is well known for two features. The first is quite evident as you approach; it is absolutely covered up with flower baskets. In the spring it can be difficult to differentiate where the flowers end and the building begins. The other item of note is the Thai (yes, you read that correctly) restaurant co-located on the premises. It gets rave reviews and is reported by many as the best Thai food in London. (Spoiler alert, I sampled the food in June, 2017, it was quite good. More in a later post!) The scents and aromas wafting through the pub were quite tantalizing, lending credence to the claims made on the restaurant. But alas, our plans didn't include a meal, so it was just pints for us. The decor of The Churchill Arms is best described as "Eclectic Churchill-kitsch." Every possible surface is covered with Churchill-related items. I have no idea how much of it is authentic, but the collection is entertaining my any measure. It is a Fuller's Pub, so the libations offered are quite predictable.

Continuing southward and crossing Kensington High Street we made our way to the Builder's Arms. Tucked away in what could nearly be described as a residential cul-de-sac, this Casque-Mark Pub is known for excellent service and a menu of incredible food enhanced with seasonal twists. If you're looking for a memorable meal this is certainly worthy of consideration, as is it's sister establishment, The Queen's Arms (which happens to be our next stop.) There's a nice courtyard out front and plenty of room inside, but I suggest booking a table for dinner if at all possible due to their popularity.

A few blocks east, tucked back in a quiet mews, you'll find The Queen's Arms. As reported previously this is an outstanding establishment in every regard, from the menu to the service to the beers offered. It is popular with crowds attending events at the nearby Royal Albert Hall, so judicious attention to event schedules and calling ahead to book a table are in your best interest if you're looking to dine in the early evening. Since it is in a quiet residential mews they do place an emphasis on keeping outdoor noise to a minimum in the late evening. We've dined here for dinner a few times as well as lunch and cannot over-emphasize the quality of their food. Their Casque-Mark certification indicates the quality of their ales and their service speaks for itself. No matter what the occasion, this is an excellent choice of pub and deserving of your custom.

As has become the custom with our crawls an ad-hoc stop was added to the itinerary. The Gloucester Arms was our "neighborhood" pub in September of 2016 when we stayed in a flat just across the street. It's a nice watering hole, with 3 cask ales and a selection of lagers along with Guinness and cider. A quick stop here and we were off down Gloucester Rd to the Stanhope. A bit of a touristy pub thanks to being located just across from the Gloucester Rd Underground Station, they have a reasonably wide selection of libations on offer and the staff does well managing the assortment of patrons that assault them on a steady basis. We've stopped in here off and on for thirty years and felt it only right to grab a pint in honor of our long "relationship" despite the close proximity to our final stop.

When we arrived at the Hereford Arms we were lucky enough to nab a table for dinner, which is a stroke of luck 99 nights out of 100. This noteworthy pub dates to the early-mid 1800's (exact dates are unclear) and draws a steady stream of locals as well as a fair share of tourists. Legends say it was a favorite haunt of Jack the Ripper, but that's a nebulous claim as he was never identified. There is a solid link to Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, who named his most famous character after a block of nearby flats. The staff here is on the young side and quite accommodating, especially in the mid-afternoon when business ebbs a bit and have a moment to chat. The food is quite good, from burgers to fish & chips to roast lamb and the specials off the board (which I recommend if you're there for a full meal.) We've been coming here for over 30 years and mark it as the first pub we ever visited, so it holds a special place.

Breakfast at Hogwarts!

Just received email from the WB Studio Tour in Leavesden. If you're interested tickets go on sale July 19! (click link below photo for full details)

Warner Brothers Studio Tour - Breakfast at Hogwarts

Enjoy a magical Sunday morning this summer with 'Breakfast at Hogwarts'.

Start your day with an exclusive breakfast reception in the iconic Great Hall. Lined with Cheeri-Owls and Pixie Puffs, the Great Hall trestle tables will be specially dressed for breakfast as they were in the magical film series.

After enjoying a selection of breakfast canapes, fresh pastries, fruit smoothies and bucks fizz, you will be joined in the Great Hall by staff members dressed in full Hogwarts uniforms for a complimentary photograph at the breakfast table.

You'll also have the chance to meet the award-winning filmmakers who helped bring the world of Harry Potter to life on-screen. Oscar winning Special Effects Supervisor, John Richardson, will demonstrate how the magnificent Chamber of Secrets door was created and Costume Designer, Laurent Guinci, will help you step into Professor Slughorn’s armchair suit for a unique photo opportunity.

Walk among the authentic sets and discover the behind the scenes secrets at the studios where it all began, ahead of the first tour of the day. Highlights include the Gryffindor common room, Dumbledore's office, the Weasley kitchen at The Burrow, the iconic Platform 9¾ that houses the original Hogwarts Express locomotive and, new for 2017, the Forbidden Forest.

Following a complimentary sample of Butterbeer in the Backlot Café, you will be able to step inside Harry Potter’s childhood home, number four Privet Drive, before wandering up the wizarding shopping street of Diagon Alley.

Sometimes You Just Need to Slow Down

5 April, 2017

As I may have previously mentioned, my wife is battling chronic kidney disease. This slows us down a bit from time to time, and today was one of those days.

A late morning was topped off with a "Full English" breakfast at Caffee Forum on Gloucester Rd. While some places will pass off a "Full English" as eggs, bacon, and beans with toast this establishment goes full-tilt with the inclusion of sausages, mushrooms, and grilled tomato. The first 100 coffee purchases each day get a free croissant, so if you end up hungry after all of that you may need to make an appointment with your doctor!

We've been periodic customers here for a decade and are fans of their breakfast baguettes as well as their croissants and sausage rolls for takeaway. If you need a bit of encouragement to get your crowd moving in the mornings it has been my experience that the aroma of fresh baked goods is a sure-fire method of coercion, and it also gives you the opportunity to grab a coffee beverage that is on-par with all the large chain shops. A case full of pastries and other deli offerings provides enough selection to satisfy all but the most extreme picky eater.

A lazy-day late breakfast led to a fabric shopping expedition just around the corner that lasted a couple of hours. Selecting, choosing from the selections, determining how much of each selection is wanted (is it for a future garment? a quilt project? a friend? or for the 'stash' - which is quilter-speak for "fabric I really like so much I might not ever use it.") - all of this has to be taken in to consideration!

My wife was still in recovery mode after the shopping expedition, so we returned to our rented flat at the apartment-hotel so she could relax and prepare for her visit the next day to the "Mothership" - Liberty London for the remainder of her fabric shopping "needs." Anyone who knows a quilter completely understands what I'm referring to.

Given a perfectly reasonable pub is located just around the corner I had no problem staking out a stool at the bar and enjoying a few beers over the afternoon while chatting with the New Zealand-born pub manager and whomever else happened by. Have I mentioned how entertaining and enlightening random pub conversations can be? In general the citizens of London are more worldly than the average American, and conversations lean more towards national and foreign policy than sports - although a pub on the day of a prominent rugby or football (soccer) match puts American sports bars to shame. Another major difference is the ability for people to have spirited discussions, even about their favorite sports team, while maintaining a decorous atmosphere. Insults and jabs will fly freely, but always in good fun and people tend to take as good as they give. Quite a contrast to what you might see at home.

What do you do for dinner in London when you want good food with minimal hassle? We go to Pret a Manger for a sandwich. Everything is made fresh and in many, many years we have yet to have anything that wasn't tasty. If you've had your fill of pies, roasts, and ethnic foods there's nothing wrong with a nice sandwich and a bag of crisps to satisfy an appetite.

Travel Advice: Souvenirs and Shopping

A common pitfall of travel is feeling a bit of guilt over not being able to bring everyone with you. To assuage this guilt most people will resort to buying souvenirs for those back home. Unfortunately this often results in overloaded luggage and additional stress over the search for something "just right" for everyone on your list. The distance traveled shouldn't dictate your shopping activity. You might find a perfect gift for someone at the local craft market just as well as halfway around the world.

Over the years we've developed a simple strategy.

• Don't make a list.
• Leave the guilt at home.
• If you find something that screams "Aunt Susan" or "Cousin Bill" then buy it and don't think twice about who you "forgot" this trip.

I've purchased books for a first cousin, once removed (my Mom's first cousin, to be precise) as well as a graduation gift (8 months before the event) for the daughter of a close friend while in London. We've purchased Christmas tree ornaments in Uruguay for a half-dozen relatives at once, and scallop shells from Santiago de Compostela for a minister friend.

Most of the people I know would rather have something meaningful and thoughtful than another random trinket you felt obligated to deliver that will only collect dust. First, they'll be pleased to know that you thought of them during your travels. They'll also be appreciative that you have paid attention in the past to know enough to select a thoughtful gift. Finally (hopefully?) they'll gain some enjoyment from the practicality of the gift.

We've adopted a similar policy when looking for mementos for ourselves. My wife likes to collect Christmas ornaments from places we've visited, as they're a reminder of our adventures each year when we decorate the tree. Other than that, we seek out things that we can use on a daily basis. A set of leather drink coasters from Uruguay, a hand-carved wooden tray for pocket change from Jamaica, woolen scarves from Scotland, and a cap from London are good examples. A blanket from Mexico can make a fantastic ground cover for the beach or a picnic, but that huge sombrero that seemed like a good idea after your fourth margarita in Cozumel isn't likely to see much use. 

My wife is a quilter and a knitter, so she looks for fabrics and yarns unique to an area, then she can incorporate those in a project at some point in the future. Don't overlook the possibility of a "make your own" souvenir possibility if you're a creative person!

T-shirts can be great, but go for quality over quantity. I have shirts from trips we took 25 years ago that are a bit faded, but in excellent condition otherwise. I also have shirts from 10 years ago that are no longer suitable for use as rags to clean the windows.

A little thought and consideration will not only avoid unneeded stress, it will also elevate your status among your recipients. We've found that quality over quantity and frequency is much appreciated.

Poutine in London

4 April, 2017

Tuesday we headed to Covent Garden for some shopping, people watching, beer, and lunch. I've been following The Poutinerie for quite a while, based on positive reports from friends who have visited them several times while in London for business. They are a mobile operation, setting up at markets on a rotating basis, so you have to watch their FaceBook page or Twitter feed to know where to find them from week to week. My last trip to London I tried to connect with them but couldn't manage to get everything lined up.

This trip I planned more effectively.

 This is Paul, aka "Paul the Poutine Guy." (At least that's what I call him, as it's descriptive and a bit poetic. Hopefully he doesn't find it offensive, should he ever read my blog.)

While Paul is Canadian, he's not from Quebec, he's from Toronto, but he knows how to turn out some incredible poutine. Never had poutine you say? Think cheese fries, but the cheese is in the form of soft-ish curds instead of being a melted and runny sauce. Then add gravy, which is warm, and helps make the cheese curds a bit melty along with the warm fries (which are proper English 'chips' - not skinny fries that are usually served in the states.)


The menu is uncluttered:

• Poutine (available with vegetarian gravy if you like) 
• Poutine with rib meat (from the Rib Man - another London legend)
• Spiced Chips

If you like things spicy Paul also has some hot sauce he can add to your order as a dressing. The photo at right is my regular-sized order, with rib meat, and a generous dab (but not a full douse) of spicy sauce.  Whatever you do, bring your appetite. The portions are generous and so incredibly delicious that it is unlikely you'll be able to stop before you scrape the bottom of the container. The only way you could possibly improve this magical creation is to have a nice pint with it. Next time around I'm going to see if I can make that happen!

If you've been to Covent Garden you know how much time you can spend browsing stalls and shops when you're not occupied watching the street performers. Being new owners of iPhone 7's we found ourselves in need of headphone adapters, having left ours at home, so we visited the Apple Store for an impromptu purchase. Afterwards my wife wanted to peruse the stalls, so I chose a quiet spot to wait for her instead of adding to the bustling crowd.

As I stood, quietly catching up on the events of the day on my phone, I was approached by three university students from Belgium who were conducting a survey on the BREXIT situation. Given that they didn't realize I was an American until I started talking it made for an interesting exchange. BREXIT flowed to the Presidential election and the similarities between the two issues, both perceived and real, and it was a nice chat among people from four different countries. In other words, it was a typical London experience.

After a bit of shopping we headed towards Strand, stopping off at the Whisky Exchange to pick up a bottle for a friend (and a couple of rare gins for me) before heading around the corner to another favorite spot for dinner. 

Tapas at The Port House always hits the spot for us, and their selection of Spanish and Portuguese wines offer an opportunity to expand our exposure to different varietals and winemaking styles. After several visits we've never been disappointed with any of our food or beverage selections. It's a fantastic place to go with a group as the tapas format lends itself well to sharing and conversation.

Make sure to check out the port and madeira flights they offer, as this is another excellent way to expand your knowledge. Generally speaking flights also provide an opportunity to enjoy something that might be a bit more expensive than what you would normally order. 

Little Venice

3 April, 2017

Hidden in plain view just to the northeast of Paddington Station is a part of London that contrasts sharply with the image of a bustling international megapolis. "Little Venice" is the focal point of a series of canals and basins that loop through northern London, connecting to the Thames from around Kew Gardens to the west and near Canary Wharf to the east. For a nice stroll take the Bakerloo line to the Warwick Ave stop and walk a couple of blocks south on Warwick to the canal. You'll find steps down to the footpath just a few yards NE of the intersection of Warwick Ave and Bloomfield Rd. (If you cross the bridge you've just passed Bloomfield Rd.)

The canals are lined with narrowboats of various description, from weekend cruisers to water buses and party boats to full-time residences. As you stroll along the pathway of Little Venice you'll almost certainly encounter a boat owner undertaking some sort of routine maintenance.

Along the way from Warwick Ave to Paddington there are several opportunities to stop for refreshment, but public toilets are limited to land-based cafes and restaurants, so plan accordingly. The meandering stroll is about a mile in length and (assuming it's not the dead of winter) the greenery and flowers offer a stunning backdrop. If you're inclined you can catch a water bus to Camden (or, if you like, stop off at Regent's Park, home of the London Zoo.) Likewise, if you're visiting the Zoo you can exit to the canal and catch a ride on the water bus to either Little Venice or Camden.

A trip to London is incomplete without a trip to Hatchards, as those who have read this blog are well aware. In addition to picking up a few surprises for friends and family we managed to find a book or two for ourselves. Fortunately books are tax free, so they don't impact the duty-free allowance and there's no hassle involved with reclaiming VAT upon departure.

A quick nip next door to Fortnum & Mason for a couple of small items we overlooked on our previous visit put a lid on the shopping for the day and we hopped a cab back to the hotel to drop off our loot and prepare to meet our son for dinner.

 Everyone in our group loves Burger & Lobster, so that was a simple choice. Leicester Square is a central location between our hotel and our son's university, so we chose that location this trip. While the food menus are identical, each Burger & Lobster location has a different atmosphere and drinks menu. The food offerings have expanded a bit from the original choices of burger, lobster, and lobster roll. You now have a choice of burgers and a Singapore lobster roll (it includes shrimp and is a bit spicy.) The fries (they're shoestrings, so I don't consider them chips) and salad remain in their original, scrumptious incarnations. We were fortunate as far as seating goes and enjoyed a relaxing and delicious dinner with designs to grab dessert at BubbleWrap Waffle just around the corner. (For the record, I had the Singapore Lobster Roll, and it was delicious. I'm still partial to the original Lobster Roll, but have no complaints.)

After dinner we discovered a queue of approximately two hours at BubbleWrap, and even though I'm no slouch when it comes to ice cream, this exceeded my tolerance for wait-times so we took a pass.

Perhaps we'll luck out in the future.

Sunday at the Races!

2 April, 2017

One of our favorite activities on Sundays in London is to meet friends for a roast dinner at a gastro pub and spend the afternoon socializing over beers (or wine, or cider, depending upon your preference.) April 2nd happened to be the annual Boat Races between Oxford and Cambridge. Tracing their origins back to 1829 (men's) and 1927 (women's) the races were held irregularly until becoming an annual even in the 1960's.

Given that collegiate sports in the U.K. are sparse, this is a monumental event each year. Imagine UNC-Duke in basketball, Auburn-Alabama or Michigan State-Ohio State in football and you've got a good start on the magnitude of this rivalry. Barges and yachts are moored along the route and every square inch of every patio facing the river is packed with humanity. Pubs become full-blown sports bars with televisions in every corner for those who can't see the river. The usual, somewhat sedate, borderline formal, civilized Sunday afternoon atmosphere is exchanged for cheering crowds drinking beer from plastic cups (a rarity) and eating upscale cookout food from pop-up restauranteurs set up all around the patios.

While the crowd was large it wasn't overly loud, save for the band set up inside the pub. Lines for beverages were quite long, which helped to moderate consumption. Drinking from plastic did make the beer warm more rapidly than usual, which was a little irritating. With all the plastic cups and disposable food containers the staff did a commendable job of patrolling the area and keeping garbage picked up. It was quite entertaining when, during one trip to the bar, the band started playing "Sweet Home Alabama" and a large group of Brits started singing at the top of their voices.

The most surreal moment of the day was when we asked someone to take a group photo for us. Not only was he American, he was from a town just a few hours up the road from us! The "small world" paradigm always seems to come around when you least expect it.

It is understandable that the beer selection was limited to keep things streamlined, I will say that it was a bit disappointing. I am (admittedly) a bit of a beer snob, and the ones on offer, while certainly what I would consider "useful" beers, were not as enjoyable as would normally have been offered. They also had Pimm's by the pitcher (If you haven't had a proper Pimm's cup I highly recommend a trip to your local liquor store - it is light and refreshing and doesn't pack a kick - recipes are plentiful and readily available.)

The weather was tremendous, the company was spectacular, the food and beverage more than adequate (but a bit on the pricey side of the equation.) It was certainly much different than any other Sunday afternoon we've spent in London and I recommend participating in a similar event if the opportunity presents itself, if for nothing than the opportunity to compare it to other events you may have attended.

Saturday in London

1 April, 2017

As we got our feet under us a bit after a couple of days it was time for some shopping. I find that planning some choice activities for the second full day helps to motivate everyone and facilitate adjusting to the time difference. My wife is currently waiting for a kidney transplant and will have a significant amount of down time in the next year or so. In anticipation of this she has begun to learn how to knit, and as part of that process she discovered a store in London that is known for having amazing yarns. Thanks to the magic of Google Maps and a London Tube app, plotting our course to Loop couldn't have been any more convenient without a personal guide and professional driver to drop us at the door.

It's a small-ish shop, a short walk from Angel station on the underground, with a convivial staff willing to answer questions and decipher yarn requirements for patterns (which is no small feat when translating from 'American' to 'European' and English to Metric before making adjustments for yarn size.)

It is tucked around a corner in a small alley that is populated by various street vendors depending upon the day of the week. While there are several other neighboring shops they may not be of general interest (a perfumery and a fish monger come to mind) so you may be at a loss to pass the time if you're the spouse of a knitter.

I suggest navigating to the shop, then tracing your steps back a block or so to The York and enjoying a pint or two (or however many it takes to wait out the shopping expedition - you're on holiday, no need to get in a twist over a few skeins of yarn as long as your better half allows you the same consideration with respect to a few pints of proper ale.) In addition to a nice selection of ales provided under Cask Marque registration their menu has some tasty items, including one of the best Scotch Eggs I've ever tasted. In my experience tables are easy to come by (if one isn't empty just wait a few minutes) and the staff is polite and efficient. Definitely a nice place to spend an hour (or more) and made even more so if you sit outside on a sunny day. Pro Tip: Have the rest of your party collect you at the pub when they've finished shopping, it's a no-brainer to offer them a libation which will give you time to have another pint before you go!

When our adventure was over we hopped back on the tube and headed to Mayfair to visit familiar haunts. It was just before Easter, so Fortnum & Mason was replete with eggs and bunnies of every description. Along with candy treats for the crew back home there are a couple of their teas that are a particular favorite (even though we have access to hundreds of teas of our own, there are some blends that we can't quite seem to replicate...) A brief stop at Kath Kidston to see if there were any compelling new lines and then down the arcade to Taylor of Old Bond St to replenish depleted personal grooming supplies.

While I can (and do) order their products from Amazon when needed, nothing compares to visiting the store to see the new products and smell the new scents. If your skin is on the sensitive side I cannot emphasize enough how strongly I suggest you seek out a quality line of shaving and skin care product. Over the years I've tried dozens of "sensitive skin" shave creams and gels from cans and countless aftershave creams, gels, and lotions. Nothing compares to shaving cream from a jar applied with a brush, followed by an alcohol-free aftershave lotion. For a true indulgence (call it a "male spa day") book an appointment with Jermyn Street Barbers (located on-site) for a Luxury Wet Shave. Let your beard grow for a couple of days prior for full effect. I've never had a better shave and it's as relaxing as a good massage. (Not a GREAT massage, but a good massage.)

We dropped off our purchases at the flat and headed to our favorite London Chinese restaurant, Phoenix Palace in Marylebone. (Near Baker Street Tube) We were first introduced to Phoenix Palace by friends in 2014. The clientele is varied (tourists to locals to Chinese expats) and the food is uniformly delicious and well-prepared. If I were to offer a criticism it would be the menu is inclusive to the point of being overwhelming. We're no strangers to Chinese food and still took several minutes to digest the menu. I consider the spices to be appropriate, without being overwhelming - unlike many restaurants who simply add heat for the sake of heat. The balanced and restrained use of spices is the difference between a chef and a cook, and their kitchen is filled with chefs. Call for a reservation, they do a brisk business!

Friday in London: Chores, Beer, Italian Food

31 March, 2017

Thanks to the generosity of local friends, we loaded up empty suitcases Friday morning for the forty-five minute drive to Middlesex University. As luck and London road construction would have it, our drive included a tour of the car park (parking garage in American English :-) ) at Westfield London Shopping Centre ("The Mall" for Americans, which is nothing at all like "The Mall" that extends from Buckingham Palace.) We also ended up taking a bit of a detour due to sketchy GPS directions but eventually made it to the destination and made our delivery.

After a circuitous return to central London we made our way to the Anglesea Arms, a pub well-known for exceptional food as well as having a beer garden. Situated on a quiet side street in South Kensington, they offer a selection of six ales augmented by nearly a dozen lagers, stouts, and ciders. We enjoyed a pint (or maybe two...) while having an impromptu meeting to discuss future business opportunities related to themed touring concepts. It appears that the intersection of our collective ideas is much greater than either party anticipated, so perhaps this will bear fruit in the coming months. If so, it should prove to be great fun!

While sitting in the pub for the remainder of the afternoon and evening would have been delightful, we were struggling with a bit of jet lag and our friends had a schedule to keep, so we returned to the flat for a short break before meeting our son for an early dinner at one of our favorite neighborhood restaurants.

I've written about DaMario before, and I'll probably write about it again in the future. It was known to be Princess Diana's favorite pizzeria, and by our estimation her opinion in this regard is nearly flawless. Anyone that can elevate a dish as simple as bruschetta to the level they have is worthy of high praise. This was our third visit and the only ding I can hit them with is that service slows down when the restaurant gets full. Unless you're an unreasonable troglodyte you realize that's not really a ding at all, nor will you hold it against them. Salads are fresh, dressings are bright and flavorful, pasta is perfectly al dente and sauces are flavorful and adequately portioned without being excessive. If you're in the area of South Kensington, specifically near the intersection of Gloucester Road and Queen's Gate Terrace, then pay them a visit. I suggest you either book a table or arrive early, as a long queue will form and they often have to turn people away later in the evening.