For our son's spring break we took a side trip to Munich for a few days and Friday was "moving day" courtesy of Lufthansa. I purposely avoided budget carriers such as EasyJet as I wasn't willing to go with a completely stripped-down airline. Unfortunately I booked the tickets on CheapFlights and received less than complete information.
Never again.
CheapFlights said we each got a checked bag. Lufthansa said not, based on the class of fare purchased. Mark one up to experience and strike CheapFlights off the list of travel planning resources, better to go directly to the airlines and know exactly what you're getting.
As you'd probably expect from a ("the"?) German carrier, the crew was efficient and the aircraft was spotless and in impeccable repair. We did have a delayed departure due to air traffic issues, but that was the only operational glitch we encountered. Arrival in Munich required a bus transfer from the parking pad to the terminal (not unusual for many international airports) so plan accordingly if that might present a problem for you.
German immigration was predictably efficient and courteous, and after a quick stop at a ticket kiosk (make sure you select your desired language before beginning) we boarded the S-Bahn to the Munich Hauptbahnhof. If you're going to central Munich there are a couple of options, one being a couple of stops closer than the other depending upon your exact destination. It's not really an issue unless you are under time pressure, it's just something to be aware of.
This trip we returned to the Hotel Jedermann, just a few blocks walk (or a short trolley ride when it's in service) down Bayerstraße from the Hbf. It's also in close proximity to Theresienwiese, the site of Oktoberfest. Having stayed here a few years ago we were familiar with the area and knew we could expect a clean & comfortable room with breakfast included at a reasonable rate. After checking in we enjoyed a traditional dinner just down the block at Gaststätte Bavaria. They serve Augustiner, which is our favorite Munich beer, with tasty dishes and decadent desserts, so it's a solid choice. As is the case with many restaurants in Munich, cash is preferred over cards, so plan accordingly. After salads and an assortment of tasty schnitzel variations we shared an apple strudel that was simply to die for.
Pro Tip: If you're not a hard-core beer enthusiast order a Radler, it's half beer, half lemony soda. Locals drink them as often as visitors, so no one with think anything of it.
8 April, 2017
Saturday was a raucous day; Borussia Dortmund was in town for a match with Bayern-Munich. Fans of both teams filled the city, each attired in their respective team colors and exchanging good-natured barbs and jeers at every turn. We strolled from Karlsplatz to Marienplatz, amazed at the size and abundance of white asparagus offered for sale along the way. There were also several street musicians performing with instruments ranging from accordions to a grand piano.
We ended up at Hofbräuhaus for lunch so that my wife could have
the full "beer hall" experience. Given the high profile soccer match even the Stammtisch (regular tables) were packed. We were lucky enough to find a table rather quickly in a remote corner, adjacent to a diverse group of Dortmund fans who were having great fun. They ranged in age from young adults to grandfathers, drinking and eating while offering good-natured harassment to any Bayern-Munich fans who happened to walk past their table. In most cases they would recite the B-M chant and cackle loudly in amusement as the opposition responded in similar fashion. We shared a large pretzel as an appetizer and, as usual, ended up ordering too much food. Fortunately we were well entertained by the enthusiastic fans and had plenty of beer available, so we were able to linger over our meals for an extended length of time. While Hofbräu can be a bit touristy they have a huge local following and the beer and food are quite good. The atmosphere is unlike anything you're likely to experience in the U.S.A. which puts it on the list of must-visit places in Munich.
After lunch we spent a bit of time visiting the Frauenkirche before trying to find a place to watch the football match on television. Eventually we landed at a sports bar and found a corner to stand in. Lesson learned - when planning your trip don't ignore the schedule for major sporting events. Had we realized in advance we would have booked a table somewhere (or even tried to get tickets) and had an even better experience. As it turned out we ended up meeting three other Americans - a gentleman in town on business and two young adults touring Europe on a two-week vacation. After Bayern-Munich trounced Dortmund 4-1 we were quite hungry. The young couple were headed to Hofbräu and we didn't have any better prospects, so we joined them for dinner.
All-in-all a wonderful example of enjoying a city and culture without a set agenda. We took in the sights, sounds, and abundant energy (supplied thanks to the raucous crowds of football fans) and just went with the flow. It was the epitome of my new philosophy of experiencing as opposed to just "seeing."
Never again.
CheapFlights said we each got a checked bag. Lufthansa said not, based on the class of fare purchased. Mark one up to experience and strike CheapFlights off the list of travel planning resources, better to go directly to the airlines and know exactly what you're getting.
As you'd probably expect from a ("the"?) German carrier, the crew was efficient and the aircraft was spotless and in impeccable repair. We did have a delayed departure due to air traffic issues, but that was the only operational glitch we encountered. Arrival in Munich required a bus transfer from the parking pad to the terminal (not unusual for many international airports) so plan accordingly if that might present a problem for you.
German immigration was predictably efficient and courteous, and after a quick stop at a ticket kiosk (make sure you select your desired language before beginning) we boarded the S-Bahn to the Munich Hauptbahnhof. If you're going to central Munich there are a couple of options, one being a couple of stops closer than the other depending upon your exact destination. It's not really an issue unless you are under time pressure, it's just something to be aware of.
This trip we returned to the Hotel Jedermann, just a few blocks walk (or a short trolley ride when it's in service) down Bayerstraße from the Hbf. It's also in close proximity to Theresienwiese, the site of Oktoberfest. Having stayed here a few years ago we were familiar with the area and knew we could expect a clean & comfortable room with breakfast included at a reasonable rate. After checking in we enjoyed a traditional dinner just down the block at Gaststätte Bavaria. They serve Augustiner, which is our favorite Munich beer, with tasty dishes and decadent desserts, so it's a solid choice. As is the case with many restaurants in Munich, cash is preferred over cards, so plan accordingly. After salads and an assortment of tasty schnitzel variations we shared an apple strudel that was simply to die for.
Pro Tip: If you're not a hard-core beer enthusiast order a Radler, it's half beer, half lemony soda. Locals drink them as often as visitors, so no one with think anything of it.
8 April, 2017
Saturday was a raucous day; Borussia Dortmund was in town for a match with Bayern-Munich. Fans of both teams filled the city, each attired in their respective team colors and exchanging good-natured barbs and jeers at every turn. We strolled from Karlsplatz to Marienplatz, amazed at the size and abundance of white asparagus offered for sale along the way. There were also several street musicians performing with instruments ranging from accordions to a grand piano.
We ended up at Hofbräuhaus for lunch so that my wife could have
After lunch we spent a bit of time visiting the Frauenkirche before trying to find a place to watch the football match on television. Eventually we landed at a sports bar and found a corner to stand in. Lesson learned - when planning your trip don't ignore the schedule for major sporting events. Had we realized in advance we would have booked a table somewhere (or even tried to get tickets) and had an even better experience. As it turned out we ended up meeting three other Americans - a gentleman in town on business and two young adults touring Europe on a two-week vacation. After Bayern-Munich trounced Dortmund 4-1 we were quite hungry. The young couple were headed to Hofbräu and we didn't have any better prospects, so we joined them for dinner.
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Portable hydration station designed by a Bayern-Munich fan |
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