Monday, Monday

28 December, 2015
My daughter and I started the day with a jog around Green Park. It was clear and crisp morning and we found the cold air a bit harsh on our throats. Even with turtlenecks and mouth coverings we struggled to maintain a cadence so our run ended up being a modified jog/walk/jog/walk. I'm not much of a runner, but I do enjoy it, so i must admit that getting up and out early was a little exciting. When we returned to the flat a shower and a cup of tea put everything to rights and we rousted the rest of the family.

Divide and conquer was the order of the day. One group went to the National Gallery and the other to the Churchill War Rooms. The National Gallery (with the adjacent National Portrait Gallery) is certainly worth your time if you're a fan of art. I would place it behind the "Big Three" sites in London (The Tower of London, Wesminster Abbey, and St Paul's Cathedral) but on par with the Banqueting House, Churchill War Rooms, Royal Mews, Royal Observatory and other locations. Plan to devote at least a half day for the National Gallery, and that will give you an opportunity to skim the high points. A whole day is really needed to begin to do it justice. There is a nice cafe with views of Trafalgar Square where you can have lunch and recharge.

Over all the years that I've been visiting London I've never visited the Churchill War Rooms until this trip. I only became aware of them about ten years ago and this is the first opportunity I've had to visit them. The spaces are a bit cramped, but if you have any interest in the European theater during WWII it's well worth dealing with rubbing elbows and getting bumped around a bit. With modern air handling equipment the space is quite pleasant, but it doesn't take much imagination to visualize what it would have been like crammed full of people, filled with cigar and cigarette smoke, and with less than optimal hygiene facilities. In addition to the War Rooms, many of which are just as they were left when the war ended, there is the Churchill Museum. Plan on about 3 hours to explore the War Rooms. We spent an additional 30-45 minutes hitting the high points of the Churchill Museum but would have spent more had I been aware of how comprehensive it was. Under the circumstances our schedule didn't afford that luxury. We walked to and from the War Rooms through Green Park to St. James' park from our flat in Shepherd's Market. It was a gorgeous day and the resident birds were numerous and entertaining.

We stopped for a quick pint at Shepherd's Tavern on the way to the flat. The structure was built in 1735 by Edward Shepherd and originally served as a butter shop. No one is quite sure of the date it converted to a pub, but we're glad the decision was made. Butter is good, but if forced to choose between the two beer is going to win out every time.

Dinner was an extended family affair (17 of us) at The Stafford to celebrate my Mother's upcoming 70th birthday. If you're headed to London and want to bathe in luxury with staff to cater to your every whim and fancy then The Stafford is highly recommended. My parents have been guests there over the past 30 years and the location is as exceptional as the service.

No Agenda

29 December, 2015

We've been in London for almost a week, but it doesn't feel quite like that with the holidays mixed in. I'm cursed with a rather large head, so it is generally accepted that I can't walk in a hat shop and find anything that fits me. I figured that if I had a chance anywhere on the planet Lock & Co (founded 1676) would be the place. I wasn't disappointed. My first thought was to find a nice, warm, cap of some description. A basic hat that I could wear most every day. I was as giddy as a school girl to

Lock & Co

walk in and find a stack of hats in my size, and even a few a size larger! This was unheard of! 

I can't tell you how many times I've won bets with friends by going to stores and betting that they didn't have a hat to fit me. Most mass-market manufacturers max out at US size 7 3/4 and I wear a 7 7/8 or an 8, depending upon the manufacturer. Being able to actually choose from several styles and materials was unlike anything I had ever experienced. I ended up selecting an Oslo Tweed cap (a traditional "driving cap" with hidden ear flaps.) While I haven't had occasion to deploy the ear flaps yet, I can say that the hat is well fitted and stays on my head even in a rather strong breeze. On a whim I asked about fedoras. I was quickly informed that they had several styles and colors in my size. I nearly fainted. I ended up with a navy blue (nearly black) fedora that fits as if it were made for me. The staff at Lock & Co are helpful, knowledgeable, and stand ready to assist you with your hat selection. They hold Royal Warrants from both the Duke of Edinburgh

Some of the inventory (5-6 hats per box)

(Prince Phillip) and the Prince of Wales (Prince Charles) so you can shop there with confidence. given their proximity to St James' Palace it's not difficult to visualize Prince Charles walking up the street to go pick up a recent order. (I have no idea if that would ever happen, but it's an entertaining through, none the less.) They're on St. James' Street, between Piccadilly and St. James' Palace, just a block up from Pall Mall. Check out some of the older hats they have on display above the till, some of them date from the 1800's. These are hats of classic style and timeless design, meant to last a lifetime with proper care. They are made by hand and will fit you perfectly. You're making an investment in your wardrobe, not purchasing a souvenir. This is one of those places where homework pays off if you're in the market for a hat. Having an idea of what they offer and the various price points will keep you from getting flustered, especially if the shop is busy. They do have sales between Christmas and New Year's, so keep an eye out then for some nice bargains.

A couple of blocks up from Lock & Co you'll find Davidoff at the corner of St James' and Jermyn St. If you're looking for cigars, pipes, walking sticks, or maybe some particularly rare Scotch, then stop in here. My Mother purchased a cane from them years ago and every time she brings it back in they replace the tip, tighten the head, and buff out any dings that may have appeared. As tends to be typical in London (and I know it gets a bit redundant, even cliche') the staff here are simply nice people that are a joy to interact with.  Lunch was a quick sandwich at Patisserie Valerie, at the corner of Piccadilly and St James'. Don't let the decor or any clutter fool you (if they get outrageously busy they'll stack up dirty dishes in order to get tables cleared and new customers seated) their kitchen produces some tasty offerings. Things do tend to move fast, so being prepared will serve everyone well. Openly demonstrating to the staff that you're willing to go with the flow a bit will pay dividends, as they tend to get more than their fair share of high maintenance customers. A smile and a nod will go a long way.

Just down Jermyn St, just across from the statue of Beau Brummel (as referenced by Billy Joel in It's Still Rock-N-Roll To Me) is a shop that I visit every time I come to London. Taylor of Old Bond Street is a gentleman's shop and they have, simply put, the best shaving products I've ever used. There's nothing quite like a shave with brush-applied cream and alcohol-free aftershave to finish it

off. A container of shave cream lasts me months and months and I've been using the same (mid-range) shaving brush for going on 4 years now with modest signs of wear. Once you figure out what you like it is easy and affordable to order additional product on-line. I still make a point of visiting when we're in town in order to see if there are any new products available.

Dinner tonight was at Spaghetti House. A London chain that looks a bit institutional from the street but serves some solid basic Italian along with a respectable wine list, nice coffees and good desserts. The best thing about Spaghetti House is that you don't need to book a table in advance (assuming a party of 4-6)  and the second-best thing is that you can feed a family of four for about £70, which is downright reasonable by London standards. On the way back to the flat we stopped in at Kings Arms on White Horse Street for a couple of pints before calling it an evening. A typical British pub with a good selection of cask ales and a neighborhood crowd ready to discuss the topic of the day, which tends to lean heavily towards rugby or football (soccer) until they figure out you're American, then they want to know what the hell is going on with the Presidential election.

Wednesday in London

30 December, 2015

Windsor Castle - Spring 2014

Wednesday was a divide and conquer day. The kids went out to Windsor for a tour with our dear friend Henrietta Ferguson. We first met her on a visit to London in 2007 when she took us on a "Harry Potter" tour of Oxford. She is a licensed Blue Badge Guide and an absolute delight to work with. Over the years we have also visited Blenheim Palace, Hever Castle and Chiddingstone, The Tower of London, Lambeth Palace, and Westminster Abbey. From small, intimate family groups to an entourage that warrants a motor coach she has you covered. You'll not only learn about what you're seeing, you'll also learn how it relates to other things you may have seen or heard of. Make no mistake, a day spent with Henrietta will be one to remember. Her quick wit and local wisdom accent her encyclopedic knowledge of all things historical, making a game of "stump the guide" most ungratifying.

J Smith & Sons

My wife had a few specific places she wanted to go shopping, so that's how we spent the day. We started with a trip to James Smith & Sons, an establishment that has been in business just under 200 years. As we weren't in the market for any riding crops, whips, life preservers, or swordsticks our shopping was limited to umbrellas. This shop has been on her radar for almost ten years and on the eighth trip we finally managed a visit. Their craftsmanship and detail is simply stunning. If you're looking for a functional keepsake and have occasion to use an umbrella with some frequency then consider investing in one of theirs. With proper care it will last several lifetimes and (heaven forbid) they can repair it for you if needed. Full disclosure - we noticed the "no photos" sign a bit late and offered our apologies to the gentleman who was assisting us. He said not to worry, so here we are. As I had already invested in a nice hat (details forthcoming in another post) I did not consider an umbrella for myself, but I may consider one on a later trip.

Beautiful Umbrellas

After our finishing up at James Smith & Sons we headed to my wife's absolute favorite store in all of London, LIBERTY! My first memory of Liberty of London is from my first trip to the UK when I was fourteen. I purchased a couple of cashmere scarves that I still have and use as often as the weather allows. Unfortunately Liberty hasn't offered those scarves for some many years so I've had to shop elsewhere. If you've never enjoyed the luxury of a fine cashmere scarf tucked around your neck on a cold day you're missing something. It is truly one of life's simple pleasures. But I digress, this is not about my previous trips. 

This trip was about one thing and one thing only - fabric for quilting. As you'll recall from my post on Edinburgh, my wife is an avid quilter and her Christmas present this year was a trip to Liberty to buy fabric. And buy fabric she did! Yards and yards of amazing fabrics that will eventually reappear in quilts, bags, and wall hangings of various description. Some of it will be stored away for some time to come, waiting for just the right project. Think of it as a bottle of fine wine that you hold back, waiting until the time to enjoy it is just right. This isn't fabric to be used capriciously, it is meant to be savored and used judiciously. While my wife perused and selected fabrics I wandered out the back door of Liberty and passed the time at Shakespeare's Head with a few pints and a useful plate of bangers and mash for lunch. I made my way back to Liberty to see things across the finish line, which still took a bit of time. After all was said and done we stopped in the cafe at Liberty for a pot of tea before heading back to the flat to meet the kids and hear about their day in Windsor.

Indian food (commonly referred to as simply "curry" in the UK) is as pervasive there as Mexican food is in the USA. In London you'll find that Masala Zone has several locations. We've now eaten at the Bayswater and Soho restaurants and both were quite good in my somewhat limited experience. The wait staff is pleasant and helpful, portions are generous, the menu is varied and prices are reasonable. Definitely book your table in advance as they are quite popular and availability may be limited at times.

New Year's in London

A Night to Remember!

Fireworks over the London Eye

My wife had fireworks on the Thames as a bucket list item, so the stakes were high. I've mentioned doing your homework to prepare for the trip and this is a prime example of how that pays off. In years past access to the viewing area was on a first-come, first-served basis, which obviously resulted in outrageous crowds and all the issues that go along with them. A couple of years ago the Mayor of London decided to make it a ticketed event with proceeds benefitting a non-profit. This year it was UNICEF, I'm not sure who it was last year. The first step was figuring out how to order tickets, and the initial answer was "not yet." I signed up for a mailing list on the Mayor of London website and eventually received an email notification telling me that they would go on sale October 2 at noon, GMT. Since I was going to be in Tennessee that day it meant that I needed to be awake with browser open by 6am, ready to go. There were only a couple of snags, the first being that we were a party of six, possibly eight, and they limit each customer to only four tickets. So I purchased four and my son purchased four. Making two online purchases back-to-back on an overseas website will make most credit card fraud detection algorithms go haywire, so have two cards at hand. The only other issue is ticket pick-up. They will mail them to you in the USA, but depending upon your travel plans you may not be home when they are delivered. Not to worry, you can pick them up at the ticket booth in Trafalgar Square a couple of days prior to the event. We had tickets in the Blue area, immediately adjacent to the Houses of Parliament and just west of the London Eye. Everyone tends to bunch up as close to the river as possible, leaving ample open space in the street. Make sure there isn't a tree or streetlamp obstructing your view of the sky and you're in good shape.

Pay attention to all the information you can find about transportation and access to the venue. The only people we saw who had any problems were the ones who thought the rules applied to everyone else. Getting to the viewing area is pretty seamless (assuming you selected an area somewhat adjacent to your lodgings,) To get home you should be prepared for a walk. We were staying in Shepherd's Market and it was a manageable walk from our viewing area. Yes, it was late and yes, we were tired, but the experience was more than enough to keep us going until we got home. Take something to entertain yourselves (we played Heads Up! on our phones) and, again, follow the rules. You will go through a security checkpoint and you will not be allowed to keep any contraband they discover. You will be rewarded with one of the most amazing fireworks displays you will ever see.

We had New Year's Eve lunch with friends from London at The White Horse on Parson's Green. It offers a range of seating options (we were a group of nine) and has an excellent menu as well as an outstanding selection of beers and ciders to choose from. If you're not sure what to try just have a chat with one of the fine folk behind the bar and they can either describe what they have available or match something to your tastes if you tell them what you like. They also have a complete selection of spirits and a respectable wine list, on the off-chance that beer isn't your first choice. Why beer wouldn't be someone's first choice is beyond me, but there you have it. We stayed until they booted us out to begin preparing for the evening festivities, but frankly I could have easily sat there and enjoyed the company until midnight. The White Horse is just a short walk south from the Parson's Green tube stop and well worth whatever effort is required to get there from anywhere in London. 

New Year's Day was also spent with friends. We had lunch at Belgo Centraal in Covent Garden. A Belgian-themed restaurant with several locations in London, each just a bit different than the other. Specializing in mussels, which are amazing, their menu has a bit of everything and ought to satisfy most any appetite. 

After lunch we went over to Regent Street, which had crowds rivaling the fireworks display on the Thames the night before. As we had a couple of youngsters with us that gave us a convenient excuse to stroll through Hemley's (you never know when you might find something of interest to older children...) Eventually we found a spot for afternoon coffee and took the opportunity to chat a bit more before calling it a day and heading home.

Edinburgh - Part Deux

2-5 January, 2015

Wall of Scotch

In part one I think we covered things at a macro level, now let's talk about a few of them in detail. If you imbibe and you're in Scotland then there are two things (well, maybe three things) that you need to give attention to. The first, obviously, is Scotch. If you're like me (and I think most Americans are probably at the same level my son and I were when we first sat down at the bar one evening) then you've had a bit of Scotch here and there, it was probably a bit on the smoky side, and you didn't think very highly of it. So, while you might be a lover of bourbon, Tennessee Whiskey, and other variants of aged brown spirituous grain products, you wouldn't consider yourself much of a Scotch drinker. You may want to take a step back, seek some knowledgeable help, and reconsider your stance. To be called Scotch it must be distilled in Scotland and aged in oak casks for a minimum of three years. Single Malt Scotch must be produced in a single distillery using a pot still from a mash of barley. Blended Malt is simply a mixture of two or more Single Malts, while Blended Scotch is a mixture of Single Malts with grain alcohol. Single Malt Scotch will be reasonably consistent from year to year, with slight variations due to such things as weather. Blended Malt is more consistent, due to the flavor profile coming from multiple sources. Blended Scotch is the most consistent, due to the larger number of ingredients and the addition of grain alcohol to produce a signature taste year after year. Chivas that you drink today will be pretty much identical to what your father drank and what your children might drink in the future.

There are five recognized Scotch regions: Speyside, Highlands, Lowlands, Campbeltown, and Islay. Each region produces a distinct flavor profile and about 90% of all the Scotch produced is in the form of Blended Scotch (Johnnie Walker, Dewars, Chivas, and Cutty Sark, for example.) Blended Malts are generally a good value proposition, lacking the huge marketing budgets of the big name blends for the most part. Monkey Shoulder is an excellent value and generally available in the USA (even in NC, which isn't known for diversity in its state-run ABC system.) Sheep Dip is another example, and Johnnie Walker Green receives rave reviews but demands a premium over other blended malts due to the brand strength. The reviews I've read on it say it's worth it. [Update: 10 May 2017 - Just discovered that Johnnie Walker Green was re-introduced in 2016, which I think is a good thing.] When you move to Single Malt things get more confusing and, I think, more interesting.

Speyside has the largest number of distilleries at about 105 (almost half of the total number), but the Highlands produce more whisky with fewer distilleries. Islay, with only eight distilleries, is immediately recognizable by a pronounced peaty smoke. The Lowlands have five distilleries and Campbeltown, once home to thirty, now has only three operating. [Update: 7 May 2017 - Another "unofficial" region is now commonly recognized. The Islands is, technically, a subdivision of the Highlands, but tends to be more peaty (but not Islay-peaty) with hints of Speyside. I think it's a more peaty presentation of Campbeltown, which is quickly becoming my favorite source of single malt.]

Now that you have the Cliff's Notes, I suggest finding somewhere to try some Scotch! We sat at the Scotch Bar in The Balmoral on a quiet Monday evening. Cameron was nice enough to chat with us about what we knew about our likes and dislikes (knowing your favorite bourbon is a good starting point) and then chose a selection for us to taste. Since we were the only ones at the bar that afforded us the opportunity to split pours and sip thoughtfully, with plenty of water in between to try and keep our taste buds lively. After an initial round of selections I chose a favorite (Strathisla) and my son chose a favorite (Deanston) - then we "parted ways" and Cameron selected a few more for each of us to sample, based on our demonstrated preference. After round two I settled on Old Pulteney and my son chose Balblair. I'll share a more detailed description of our new "friend" that we met at the bar another time. He was (is?) quite a character.

My wife is an avid quilter and can sense a fabric shop from miles away. This is how I found myself giving a cab driver directions to an obscure side-street in Edinburgh one afternoon. Alison is the proprietress at Edinburgh Patchwork and we were met with a warm welcome. I took my usual stance in such situations (which is to say out of the way, amusing myself with my cell phone, and offering opinion and calculation services as asked.) While I know my way around a sewing machine, and have learned a fair amount about the art of quilt making by assisting my wife from time to time, I am not, by any measure, a quilter. However, I do appreciate the art form and find the geometric aspects quite intriguing. I also enjoy the colors and patterns of the fabrics. The analytical side of my brain (definitely the most active side) enjoyed the opportunity to learn about the differences in the textile industry afforded by our little fabric buying adventure. All said we spent over an hour browsing and chatting while Alison measured and cut a rather healthy quantity of fabric. Thankfully we planned ahead for this eventuality and had ample space and weight available in the suitcases.

No trip to the U.K. is complete without having afternoon tea at least once. The Palm Room at The Balmoral does an excellent service that is rather indulgent (read: bring your appetite.) For the level of service, quality of food, and sheer quantity of food the pricing is not unreasonable and could easily be considered a bargain when compared to afternoon tea at The Ritz in London.

I thought I was ravenous when I sat down and ended up throwing in the towel with a final round of sweets yet to be served. My benchmarks for tea are two of the items that you'll find offered with every afternoon tea; salmon and scones. Suffice it to say that the Scottish salmon presented on toast and lightly dressed was simply divine. The scones were large (just look at the photo) and had amazing texture (not overly crumbly, not overly dense) and were accompanied by some of the most amazing clotted cream and strawberry preserves I've encountered anywhere.

Edinburgh is home to Innis & Gunn, brewers of some amazing beers. They've only been around since 2003, which is quite a contrast for an ancient city. I didn't discover that they had a restaurant, The Beer Kitchen, until we returned home and I started searching for availability in my area. Their beers are oak aged, which adds an interesting character. They have become wildly popular in Canada but have limited distribution in the USA at present. I warn against developing an insatiable taste for it until you determine if you can source it at home. I'm still licking my wounds and searching for a bottle near me.

In summary, we found Edinburgh to be an enchanting city. I can usually walk a few blocks in a new city and have a feel of it. Edinburgh speaks to me and I can't wait to go back and discover more of the city as well as Scotland as a whole.

Edinburgh - Part One

2-5 January, 2015

Royal Mile

There's nothing quite like the excitement of visiting a city for the first time. Even more so when you've read about and heard about the city for many years. We arrived by train from London in the late afternoon, which is well after sunset for Edinburgh in January.

Our hotel was just a short walk from the train station, but it took a little navigating to make sure we exited the correct side. If you're arriving in Edinburgh by train and don't intend to take a taxi from the stand at platform level make sure you have your bearings in order to avoid a circuitous trek and potential back-tracking. Depending upon the time of your arrival there are ample opportunities for food and snacks at platform level as well as access to cash machines.

Our main focus this trip was to see what we could see and get a feel for the city. We only had a couple of days and the weather was a bit challenging, even wet by Scottish standards for January (although we were told it was "warm.") We covered the upper end of the Royal Mile, including Edinburgh Castle and a good percentage of shops to obtain the requisite woolen goods. There are many shops to choose from and several of them offer identical merchandise, so it pays to shop. If you're in the market for scarves or wraps your budget may be a deciding factor between wool and cashmere. Solid colors will be less expensive than tartans (a plaid is a garment) and not all shops will have all the clan tartans to choose from, so it may take some searching if you're looking for one of the less common tartans. You may also have a choice between ancient and modern versions of the same tartan. Again, doing your homework will help considerably.

I suggest starting at the "top" of the Royal Mile in the morning, even taking a cab up to Edinburgh Castle if you're concerned about running out of steam later in the day. Plan on at least 2-3 hours to hit the high spots of the castle but you can easily spend a half day investigating all the nooks and crannies. There is a fair bit of climbing and lots of walking on uneven ground, so it may be a challenge for those of diminished mobility. The displays in the Castle are well done, from the prisons to the crown jewels. If you find yourself in need of a bite to eat the cafe offers excellent fare at prices I consider reasonable for a captive audience.

Entrance to The Witchery

Just outside the grounds of the Castle there are shopping options and an operating woolen mill, if you'd like to see a loom in operation. Just across the street you'll find the Scotch Whisky Experience, which gets good reviews. I can't speak first hand because we opted to experience our Scotch in the shops on the Royal Mile (Royal Mile Whiskies and The Whisky Trail) as well as in the Scotch Bar at the Balmoral. The Witchery gets rave reviews for dinner and you'll need to book reservations to have any real hope of dining there. The entrance is just down from the Scotch Whisky Experience and can be easily missed, so don't go too far without going back to look again if you slip past. The more flexible your schedule the better your chances for a table.

One evening we ducked in to Decon Brodies Tavern, named after William Brodie, one of the inspirations for Robert Louis Stevenson's Jekyll and Hyde. Born in 1741, Brodie was a deacon of the Guild of Wrights. By day, he was a respectable citizen and a member of the town council. By night he consorted with lowlife; gambling and drinking. His dark side forced him to burglary to pay his gambling debts, leading to his hanging in 1788. They have a nice menu of pub fare and a respectable assortment of beers on offer. I highly recommend the Deacon Brodie if you're looking for a pub to have a pint or three.

Just south of Deacon Brodie on George IV Bridge you'll find two noteworthy Edinburgh sites. About three blocks down you'll find The Elephant House, a tea and coffee shop where JK Rowling did some of her early writing on the Harry Potter series. Just a bit further down you'll find a statue of Greyfriars Bobby. His nose is shiny from people following the false tradition of rubbing it for good luck. If you want to be targeted as a tourist, rub away. If you follow the alley adjacent to Greyfriars Bobby's Bar you'll come out in the Greyfriars Kirkyard (Scottish for "Churchyard") facing Bobby's grave marker. It has become tradition for people to leave offerings to sticks at his grave as tribute for his loyalty.

Leaving London

6 January, 2016

We took the train from Edinburgh to London and had Eddie Manning pick us up from King's Cross to take us to the Hilton at Heathrow Terminal 4 by way of the Stafford.  We first used Eddie in 2007 when we arrived in London via Gatwick with two of our pre-teen children. We didn't think the Gatwick Express to Victoria and subsequent cab or tube ride held much promise, so we opted to spend a bit more to help ease the transition after an overnight flight in from the states. While we haven't used Eddie every trip we do not hesitate to engage his services any time they will eliminate hassle without blowing our budget. In other words, this won't be the last time you see his name on this blog.

While in Edinburgh we identified a particular Scotch we were interested in taking home, knowing it wasn't readily available in the states. The gentlemen at Royal Mile Whisky confirmed that it was available in their London location, so Eddie stopped by there on our way to the Stafford and we liberated a bottle of Balblair '03 to bring home. After a brief stop at the Stafford to retrieve the excess bags we left there while we visited Edinburgh, Eddie delivered us quickly and safely to Heathrow for our final night in the UK. We decided that staying at the airport would make our departure a bit easier and I took advantage of my Hilton Honors membership and booked award rooms for the night. While the rooms are a bit small by U.S. standards they were spotless and comfortable. We had a tasty dinner at the Italian restaurant and topped everything off with a couple of farewell beers before calling it a night.

7 January, 2016

While this hotel is connected to Terminal 4 via a walkway and you can reach all the other terminals from there using the train system I caution against that if you're flying out of any other terminal with more than a single suitcase and light carry-on per person. You'll also want to make sure you have ample time to transit from the hotel to your destination terminal. We were flying from Terminal 3 and had six bags for four people, plus carry-ons. Factor in our 10 a.m. flight and some mobility issues and walking would have created a hassle not worth saving a few dollars and spoiling the end of a fantastic holiday. So, we arranged a taxi and then used the Heathrow luggage porter to get everything to the ticket counter. The American Airlines agents were quite efficient and helped with the logistics of dealing with the VAT refund desk. This process has changed a bit from our last trip. Formerly you needed to show up with the goods you were claiming VAT refund at-hand in case the agents wanted to inspect them. Now it seems that you just need your paperwork in order and they'll handle the rest. While you do pay a large percentage of your VAT in commissions to the companies for processing the refunds on your behalf, getting something back is far better than getting nothing. It does take several weeks for the refund to appear on your bank statements, but I've never had an issue receiving my refund.

Security at Heathrow is as efficient as any airport I've ever traveled through (TSA could take lessons, for sure) and we were on our way to the gate with minimal delay. Your gate at Heathrow can be quite a trek, so I advise against spending too much time in the duty-free area unless you have an exorbitant amount of time before your flight. You'll be asked for your boarding pass and passport just before your gate, so keep them in a convenient place. You'll also need them when you board, so don't put everything away permanently until you're on the plane.

Our flight from Heathrow to Charlotte was without incident, save a small mishap going back through security. A short layover and a final short flight and we were home!

Breaking News!

I just received an email update from the WB Studio Tour in Leavesden. From May 27-June 6, for the first time, you'll be able to tour the Dursley's living room at Privet Drive. The tour doesn't appear in my reverse timeline for several more posts, but I wanted to post this now in case anyone is contemplating a visit sometime around the end of the month. The only portion of Privet Drive on the regular tour is the cupboard under the stairs, and that only gets passing glimpses as you weave your way thorough the queue at the beginning. Getting to the studio from London is fairly easy and the tour is a must-see for Harry Potter fans. You can read my most recent review over on Trip Advisor (including directions on how to get there) if you'd like to know more.

First, a word from our sponsor

Big Ben on New Year's Eve 2015

Well, here we are! After many years of talking about it we've decided to finally take the plunge and begin writing about our travels. While our tastes are decidedly haute our budget is not, so we take some effort to maximize value. Time spent doing a little homework before you depart can pay huge dividends down the road. As my kids will tell you, I don't mind spending a dollar, pound, euro, peso, or real - but I absolutely abhor waste. Don't buy a $5 trinket that you'll toss in a year when you'll wear a $15 t-shirt until it falls apart ten years hence.

We've been contributing reviews to Trip Advisor for quite a while, and will continue to participate there as we have found it to be a helpful resource and hope that others continue to find our efforts there of benefit. As great as reviews are, we wanted to provide more of a conversational overview of our travels. Reviews are great for finding a place to stay or eat and helping to figure out if an attraction is suitable for your family of 12, but there is something lost in the objectivity. Then there are the experiences that just don't lend themselves to a review. How do you outline the process that you went through to get tickets for the London New Year's fireworks on the Thames in a review? Where do you tell people that if you have a family traveling with a lot of luggage that the porter service at Heathrow is worth considering? Where do you explain that you should be prepared for a rather direct and thorough security inspection at the Munich airport if your belt buckle sets off the metal detector? There are lots of little things that can make travel much more enjoyable that just don't translate well in a review format. So here we are.

We'll start with the most recent trip and go backwards, while interjecting current trips in the timeline as they happen.

So, without further delay, here we go!