Living As A Londoner (sort of...)

If my count is correct I've visited London nine times over the past 35 years, spending anywhere from three days to three weeks in and around the city. Those stays have been spread among local hotels and rental flats (apartments) in several parts of the city. There are advantages to each with respect to both convenience and economy, depending upon the number of people in your group, length of stay, and your desire to be self-sufficient vs. off-loading everything to others. We avoid large chains simply because we think part of the experience of being in London is staying in something other than a Hilton, Holiday Inn, or Best Western. (One disclaimer, we have stayed at Hilton properties at both Heathrow and Gatwick the night prior to early flights.)

When looking at London hotels the best resource we've found are reviews on Trip Advisor. Make note of the demographics of who wrote the review and consider their complaints. In my experience Americans are less tolerant of smaller spaces and quirkiness while people from the UK are more likely to leave critical reviews of food and service. Europeans tend to be reasonable overall barometers. I read an assortment of the best and worst reviews for each property that interests me and evaluate the timeframe and management response (if any) when making my decision. Almost every property these days has a website, so general information on the neighborhood and transit options should be readily available with just a few clicks. If you have any questions that the website fails to address an email (or phone call, in a pinch) should provide a timely resolution.

Rental flats can be a bit trickier to deal with. Some will be excluded due to minimum requirements (some can be as long as 30 days) others due to accessibility (3rd floor, no lift) and many due to affordability (£350 per night for a 1 bedroom flat will cover a room in a fairly plush hotel with excellent service.) If you do some research (with Google Maps opened in a spare tab) you can locate some excellent deals in amazing locations. But don't act in haste, as there are other things to consider other than getting the length of stay and amenities that you desire.

• Is that first floor (second floor American) flat facing a busy street? If so, what time of year are you visiting? Air conditioning is a rarity in London as it would go unused 50+ weeks of the year more often than not, so the potential of opening windows to a busy street is something to keep in mind. 
• What's in the neighborhood? (Google Maps with Street View is invaluable in this regard!) For example, on our recent trip, we knew there was a small market just across the street (unbeatable for quick snacks, a last minute bottle of water, or to replenish cream for your coffee first thing in the morning) a dry cleaner next door (packing light is pretty much a guarantee that you're going to need one) and an assortment of pubs, restaurants, and cafés up and down the street.
• Where is the nearest grocery? (Waitrose, Sainsbury, Tesco, M&S Simply Food) 
• What are the public transit options? Convenient bus stops and underground stations should not be undervalued, especially at the end of a long day of walking around the city. 
• Which neighborhood are you considering? Is it a generally safe area? Is it centrally located or is every outing going to involve an extended trip? (Staying in Zone 1 on the Underground map is more economical in this aspect.)

So, what are the pros and cons of each choice? Obviously with a hotel you have regular linen service and, in most cases, a hot breakfast. You also have some level of concierge service - even at small, family run properties. They may not be able to acquire theater tickets for you, but they are a tremendous source of knowledge on how to get the most out of your time in London. On the down side, you may or may not have WiFi available and you will definitely have less space than in a flat. If it's your first trip a hotel is probably a better choice as it takes care of a lot of the thinking and planning and an answer to nearly every question is as close as the front desk.

If you're familiar with the city and comfortable "going native" then a rental flat can enhance your experience. There's something about going to the grocery and buying the basics. Don't forget your shopping bags - it will make you look like a pro and save you a few pence while helping to reduce waste. You make discoveries that can be enlightening as well as entertaining. Want a loaf of sliced bread? OK, do you prefer thin, medium, or thick sliced? Chips? (excuse me, 'Crisps') well, the grocery store may only have three or four varieties, but you can find a dozen different kinds of cream. Bacon? You're not likely to find a pound of it, but you can choose from several kinds of smoked bacon (theirs is back bacon) in cuts of different thickness as well as "streaky" bacon (from the belly.) Tea is abundant, as are biscuits (cookies to Americans) and if you're a fan of baked beans you'll think you've died and gone to heaven. The baked beans display in Sainsbury looks like the Campbell's Soup display at home.

The relatively simple task of cooking breakfast in a European kitchen can be educational. smoke detectors tend to be overly-sensitive by our standards and appliance controls may just as well be displayed in Klingon for as much sense as they make sometimes. Space in London comes at a premium, so everything tends to be scaled down. But despite all the quirks and challenges there is something decidedly rewarding about sitting around the table in "your" flat eating breakfast and planning the day. (Dishwashers are ubiquitous, so cleanup is reasonably simple.) By the same measure, coming in after a long day out and about and putting on a pot of tea wile you prop your feet up can be an amazing experience. London is a walking city, in spite of how much you may use available transportation you're going to cover a lot of ground on foot, and there will be at least one day that you kick off your shoes and surrender to the fatigue. On those days it's nice to call down to a nearby eatery for takeaway. (Delivery options are available as well, if you'd like to explore that service.) Of course, you are likely to find some odd things when you rent a flat. For example, we discovered that ours was stocked with "Tea" sugar, "Coffee" sugar, "Sugar" sugar and "Icing" sugar.

Regardless of which choice you make, both will afford you opportunities to enjoy local cafés. You can often find a simple afternoon tea for just a few pounds per person, much less than in a restaurant and with a much wider selection of pastries to choose from. If you're fortunate enough to find a neighborhood cafe that is worthy of multiple visits it doesn't take much to develop a rapport with the staff. When you return for a third, or perhaps fourth, visit don't be surprised if your pastries are sliced a little more generously or perhaps there's an extra nibble or two on the plate. More than likely the staff will strike up a conversation, providing an opportunity for you to connect with a local on a personal level.

Of course, nothing quite compares to a good neighborhood pub. While traditionally tipping hasn't been part of the pub scene, in some pubs there are now tip jars at the till. If you're so compelled certainly toss a few pence in the jar, but tipping on the same level as you might in the states for bar service would be considered excessively generous. When the bell rings for last call (generally between 10:30 and 11:00 pm) order quickly if you need another beverage and don't over-stay your welcome when you see the staff closing things down. It will be appreciated and they'll remember you on subsequent visits, hopefully for your polite behavior.

Having your own space provides an experience more like being a resident and less like being a tourist. It does require a bit more effort and a little planning, but it's well worth it, especially if you have familiarity with the local culture.

If you need it, John Lewis probably has it, and other shopping adventures

If you're a Target shopper in the States you'll probably feel at home in John Lewis in the U.K. It's everything Target offers, and a bit more, falling just short of the level of Williams-Sonoma. The arrangement of the merchandise can be puzzling and you'll probably have to ask if you're looking for anything specific, but odds are it's there somewhere. If nothing else the experience was an adventure. It's not the kind of place you find tourists, but if you're looking for something other than the typical Union Jack adorned coffee mug or miniature Buckingham Palace while trying to keep to a budget you can definitely find some unique gifts if you're willing to spend a little time browsing. One of the more significant differences between John Lewis and Target is the presence of multiple dining options, all far superior to an outpost of the local fast food franchise.

Our London shopping always includes a visit to Fortnum & Mason for specialty items that simply
aren't available anywhere else. While some of the inventory can best be classified as over the top, such as a $30,000 bottle of 50 year-old Scotch, most of their offerings are considered luxury items and a few hidden gems are bargains. Even the luxury items present a good value, especially if you're looking for a small gift to bring home. Many of their products are packaged in decorative tins that can be used for any number of things after the contents have been consumed. If you're lucky enough to be in London for an extended stay their cheeses and charcuterie are an amazing treat. You can find wines of all kinds, from verticals of Margeaux ($$$$) to amazing bottles in the sub-$20 range.  The key is to avoid being overwhelmed by the big-ticket items.

Of course we can't visit London without a trip to Hatchard's. The challenge with a trip here is multi-faceted. At the most basic level, it is a struggle to avoid blowing your budget sky-high and it's impossible not to if you are drawn to the rare and first edition section. If you are a collector of rare or old books and they don't have it then the odds are reasonable that they can locate it, assuming it is somewhat available. I dare say they can probably track down just about anything, given enough time. We tend to browse the historical and historical fiction sections, looking for titles that are more difficult to find elsewhere. The second challenge is keeping your luggage within weight constraints for the return trip. Of course, you can carry-on a fair amount, but slogging through an airport loaded down with books is not my idea of an enjoyable journey. On the bright side, books are free of VAT at point of sale and duty-free upon entry to the States, so if the weight issue isn't a concern there are no hidden "gotchas" hiding in the shadows to give you a nasty surprise down the road. If you're looking for something interesting to read about London, the Monarchy, British culture, or British history, then time spent browsing the shelves here will be rewarded.

Just down from Hatchard's, toward Piccadilly Circus, you'll find St James's Church. Dating to the 17th century and designed by Sir Christopher Wren, the churchyard of St. James's now hosts the Piccadilly Market Monday-Saturday. Monday and Tuesday feature a food market with antiques and collectables included on Tuesday and arts & crafts Wednesday-Saturday. It's a delightful place to browse and provides a wonderful opportunity to chat with the stall-keepers.

Another recurring favorite is Liberty of London. Known for impeccable luxury goods and it's Tudor-Revival style building, the Liberty brand is immediately recognizable across the globe. This is a fantastic place to pick up small gifts and, if you are so inclined, to shop for incredible fabrics. When you need a break from shopping Café Liberty on the second floor (third floor, American) provides one of the best afternoon teas in all of London. The Cream tea is our personal favorite, a pot of tea with two generous scones will provide the fuel to keep you going for the rest of the day. If your party consists of shoppers as well as non-shoppers, Shakespeare's Head is a nice pub located just behind Liberty on Carnaby Street that will surely help keep the most ardent non-shopper occupied for many hours.

While it can be a bit touristy, Covent Garden offers a wide variety of shops, pubs, restaurants, and craftspeople where you can find nearly anything imaginable. The London Transport Museum is located in one corner of the neighborhood and St Paul's Church (not to be confused with the Cathedral by the same name) is on the western edge. The Transport Museum is an excellent choice on days with marginal weather and the church yard has plentiful benches for sitting and relaxing in the sun. Just down Garrick Street (in front of St Paul's Church) at the intersection with Strand you'll find the new location of the Whisky Exchange, a can't-miss stop for any whisky lover. Their selection of single malt scotch is simply mind-boggling.

The Epic Pub Crawl - Part Two

Pub #6 on our afternoon adventure was The Seven Stars. Not originally part of the plan, when my co-conspirator realized where we were he insisted that we stop in due ot the novelty of the establishment. Small and quirky, legend (and signage) has it dating from 1602, which would make it the oldest pub in continuous operation in the City of London. The location barely missed the Great Fire and further luck prevented demolition for new projects built to the south and to the west. An interesting establishment by any measure, take care on the Elizabethan stairs up to the restrooms, they can be quite tricky. Mid-afternoon is a good time to stop in here to avoid the rather thick crowds that develop as the surrounding offices close up later in the day. Adnam's Broadside (4.7% ABV) is another London favorite. It's a dark ruby red beer rich in fruitcake aromas, almonds and conserved fruit, brewed with pale ale and chocolate malts and first gold hops, Broadside is short on bitterness and long on flavor without being excessively heavy.

Stop #7, The Old Bank of England, is a storied location, as at one point it was the original location of Stop #8. In the 16th and 17th centuries, two taverns stood on the site; ‘The Cock’ and ‘The Haunch of Venison’ - both were demolished in 1888 to make way for the construction of the Law Courts’ branch of The Bank of England. The Bank operated for 87 years and in 1994 London brewers Fuller, Smith and Turner took over the lease and began a major refurbishment with the aim of restoring the splendid building to its former glory, which we enjoy today. The Old Bank of England has a more grisly connection with the past, for it lies between the site of the barber shop owned by Sweeney Todd, ‘The Demon Barber of Fleet Street’, and the pie shop owned by Mrs. Lovett, his mistress. It was in the tunnels and vaults below the building that his victims were butchered before being cooked and sold in the pies to Mrs. Lovett’s unsuspecting customers. The basement still contains the original vaults used to store bullion, and indeed stored some of the Crown Jewels during the First World War. Two safes have been changed to hold cellars and kitchens, but the main vault remains intact. Our only real mistake of our adventure was opting to take on a pint of Fuller's London Porter (5.4% ABV.) I suspect the rich flavors and maltiness of the Broadside triggered a craving for something darker, and while the porter was smooth and creamy with delicious chocolate and coffee flavors it was a bit heavier than optimal and packed quite the punch. Lesson learned, stick to ales and bitters when taking on a pub crawl!

Just across the street from its former location you'll find Pub #8, Ye Olde Cock Tavern. The pub was first known as The Cock Alehouse when it was on the north side of Fleet Street and has played host to many historic people including Alfred Lord Tennyson, Charles Dickens and Doctor Johnson. It originally dates to 1549 and has been in constant operation except for a period from 1665-1668 when it was closed due to The Great Plague. In 1887 it was meticulously moved to its present location. It was lovingly reconstructed and original features include the fireplace, its over-mantle and the decorative cockerel, which is believed to have been made by the master carver Grinling Gibbons.  The beer of choice this time was Twickenham Redhead (4.1% ABV) another one in my category of proper session ales, this is a versatile beer made with roasted barley, along with a blend of pale/dark crystal malts and caramalt that give it a soft maltiness with roasted notes, whilst the English/German hop mix gives it just enough spicy hop character to be interesting. Perhaps a bit late in the game, we opted for a plate of what passes for nachos in a London pub. I had my mind (and appetite) set on the American version, so I was a bit underwhelmed. 

While we were enjoying our nachos in Ye Olde Cock the day began to fade into night, so when we emerged we were treated to an amazing twilight and a strikingly backlit Temple Bar Memorial in front of the Royal Courts of Justice. As we made our way a few blocks to stop #9 we discovered several potential watering holes for future adventures. Photographic evidence suggests that we stopped in spontaneously at The George for a half-pint of Atoll (4.6% ABV) - so some degree of sanity remained at that point, at least enough to order a half instead of a whole, if not enough to keep us from making impulsive modifications to our meticulous plans.

The Cheshire Cheese, not to be confused with Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese, from earlier in the day, is not affiliated with a brewery and holds a Cask Marque certification.  This quaint 17th century pub is located in an alley connecting two side streets near the transition between Strand and Fleet Street. They offer a nice selection of beers on-tap and a cozy atmosphere with plenty of pub games in the basement. While the location might preclude it from being a destination, it’s well worth inclusion in your pub crawl plans. By this stage my photographic documentation was beginning to wane and I completely forgot to record our beverage choice. I do know it was another half-pint and I'm confident that it was something light and of a moderate ABV. Looking over their list of ales after the fact I'm reasonably sure that we ended up with Tribute - a slightly hoppy pale ale in the Cornish style with citrus notes.  As a friend of mine characterized it, a nice but not particularly stunning beer. I would describe it as "useful" - not my first choice, but a solid fallback. By the time we left stop #10 (which was supposed to be stop #9) the only goal was to finish our quest.

The final planned stop is practically still in the grand-opening phase compared to all our other (planned) destinations. The Wellington dates from 1903 and is well known for featuring an attractive neo-gothic exterior. It retains many lovely original features such as the long wooden bar and is of course, named after Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Wellington, whose historic victory over Napoleon in 1815 ended the Napoleonic Wars.  We closed out the night with a pint of the iconic London Pride Ale. Known for its balance of malt and hops, it is available in kegs and bottles all over the world. at 4.1% ABV it was a reasonable choice to close out the festivities.

As we were enjoying a beautiful evening, sitting outside The Wellington, sipping our pints, we were approached by a shady character who appeared to have a cohort lurking across the way. He got much too friendly much too quickly and appeared to be making designs over my backpack. In a preemptive move we departed quickly, abandoning the bottom of our pints, and sure enough the man in the shadows followed us for well over a block, until we indicated we were on to him. So, a word of caution - keep your wits about you and maintain control of your belongings, even when you're pub-crawling. London is, in general, quite safe, but there are petty thieves looking for soft targets.

Now, for reasons unknown (even to my cohort, who was the chief instigator at this point) it was determined that the only proper ending to the evening required a stop at Gordon's Wine Bar for a glass of port. Gordon's is an outrageously popular destination and draws large crowds seemingly at all hours of the day and night. We have yet to visit as we'd like, which is to say an afternoon on the patio enjoying a bottle of wine and plates of tapas. While the selection of fermented-grape products is extensive, I must say that the port from the large cask behind the bar is not recommended. It comes out of the cask quite warm, and at £5 or so for a generous glass you get what you pay for. The place was packed and the staff had obviously been going after it at a frantic pace for quite some time. We grabbed our glasses and went outside to find a corner to stand and sip. Eventually, glasses emptied, we made it to the Underground and made our respective ways back home.

Given the benefit of hindsight this was a monumental undertaking and I wouldn't recommend it to the weak of heart. I do suggest that any pub crawl of more than five stops or so include written directions, interspersed with strong admonishments against spontaneous modification! That said, it was a great time spent in the company of an amazing friend.

The Epic Pub Crawl - Part One

When the dates for this trip were confirmed I started working on the plans for a pub crawl with a friend of mine who lives in London. He has extensive knowledge of the pub scene and together we assembled a list of nine pubs to visit in a reasonably compact geographic area. All of the pubs were noteworthy in one way or another. A couple of them date to the 1500's, a few more to the 1600's and the "newest" pub on the list is practically brand new at just over 100 years old. As we proceeded on our trek we added a tenth pub and then, for reasons beyond explanation, we finished the night with a rather large glass of port at Gordon's Wine Bar. We had an absolute blast and maintained a running conversation for well over eight hours as we wandered and eventually staggered and stumbled along our merry way.

First stop, The Blackfriar. An historic Art Nouveau Grade II masterpiece of a pub, originally built about 1875 on the site of a Dominican Friary in the area from about 1280-1538. The building was remodeled in 1905 by architect H. Fuller-Clark and artist Henry Poole, both committed to the free thinking of the Arts and Crafts Movement. Jolly friars appear everywhere in the pub in sculptures, mosaics and reliefs. This wonderful pub was saved from demolition by a campaign led by Sir John Betjeman (Poet Laureate of the UK from 1972-1984.) We opened the festivities with a pint of one of my favorites, Doom Bar Bitter from Sharp's Brewery in Cornwall. It's darker than an amber and tends towards caramel and biscuity notes. It's smooth and quaffable with just enough hops to keep your nose interested and a bit of a bitter bite on the back end, my idea of an ideal session beer. Since this was going to be a session by every possible measure I thought it was a logical choice with a 4.0% ABV.



Just up the street and around the corner was our second stop, The Old Bell Tavern. This pub has a long history, having been a licensed tavern for more than 300 years. Prior to the Great Fire the pub was known as the Twelve Bells, the Golden Bell, and as far back as 1500 it was known as the Sun. Rebuilt under the supervision of Sir Christopher Wren in 1670, it housed his masons who were rebuilding St Bride's Church after the London fire. Originally the pub could only be reached via an alleyway from Fleet Street and as such has a long association with printing. One of the first printing presses operated here around 1500. The stained glass front window is a distinguishing feature and quite striking. Here we opted for a pint of Rev James Original from Brains in Cardiff, Wales. This beer is full-bodied and warming with a rich palate, and an amazing finish. With a reasonable ABV of 4.5% we were able to keep things from getting out of hand too quickly.

A block or so down and on the opposite side of Fleet Street we arrive at our third destination of the day, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. Originally built in 1538, with cellars that probably date to a 13^th century monastery housed on the site, the pub was destroyed in the Great Fire and, as the sign at the door proudly proclaims, rebuilt in 1667. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese has operated under 15 sovereigns and seems to have as many floors! (There are really only five or six, depending upon how you count the basement levels.) Many famous people are believed to have spent time here, including the novelist Oliver Goldsmith, Mark Twain, Alfred Lord Tennyson, and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. Charles Dickens was known to be a frequent visitor and even mentioned the pub in A Tale of Two Cities. This is a Samuel Smith's establishment, which means "useful" beers that aren't very memorable but are quite enjoyable and at economical prices. We opted for the Bitter, which supplies malty fruited notes with hints of caramel and burnt sugar. The ABV of 3.9% will keep you in good stead and allow you to drink this beer all afternoon if you like.

To get to stop #4 was a bit of a winding walk, but not too great a distance. By any measure taking time to get to Ye Olde Mitre was a good thing (sipping on a bottle of water along the way was also an excellent idea.) Quaint and cozy (or small in other parlance) this spot can be elusive, even if you have a good idea of where to look. Nestled between two buildings down a winding alley, the original pub dates to 1546 with an expansion in the 1770’s. It is said that Queen Elizabeth I danced around the cherry tree just inside the door when her father, Henry VIII, was married next door in St. Ethelredas. We like it because it’s more traditional (no televisions or electronic games) and tends to be more quiet because of this. We can report that the gents has been recently renovated and are significantly improved over a couple of years ago. We continued our run of bitters with a pint of Seafarer's from George Gale & Co. (4.5% ABV) In keeping with the tradition of English Ales, there's nothing earth-shattering in a pint of Seafarer's, but it goes down smoothly and has pleasant notes. In general two pints are much better than one, and three or four are best if you're in good company. If you're doing a pub crawl you should probably stop at one, though.

Pub #5 on our tour was The Knights Templar. Located in the former Union Bank building, this pub takes its name from the order of Warrior Knights whose land Chancery Lane was built across in the 12^th century.  It is large and spacious by any standard and even more so for a London venue.  As strange as it sounds, the restrooms are as spectacular as the main room. Make sure to visit, even if it’s just to wash your hands. Crowds are light in mid afternoon but build as the surrounding offices shut down for the day. Abbot Ale was the selection here, a bit heady at 5.0% ABV, but this product of Greene King in Bury St. Edmunds is one of our favorites when we're in London. This ale has nicely balanced hops with a malty richness and hints of fruit that keep things interesting.

Our crawl continues just down a side street in Epic Pub Crawl Part Two at a pub added at the last minute when my partner in crime realized how close we were.

Breaking News - Oct 14 - Fireworks on the Thames!

Tickets for the 2016 New Years Eve Fireworks in London went on sale October 21. I'm still receiving emails, so it would appear that tickets are still available, but I wouldn't expect them to last much longer! The only way to enter one of the riverside viewing areas is to have tickets. Check out the details at www.london.gov.uk/nye - tickets are £10 each and individuals may purchase a maximum of four. If you're planning to visit London for New Year's it is well worth the effort required. Make sure you select to pick up your tickets at the Trafalgar Square booth if you don't have a UK address for mail delivery, as there is no guarantee that you'll receive them via mail in the USA prior to your departure.

Dining in London, more places!

At the corner of Gloucester Rd and Queen's Gate Terrace, just across from the Gloucester Arms Pub you'll find an incredible eatery with a storied history in DaMario. Once the favorite pizzeria of Princess Diana, the only difficulty you'll have here is getting a table. Fortunately the kitchen is open late, so if you plan accordingly a late arrival is to your advantage. Our rental flat was just a few doors down so we ate here twice during our recent trip. First, we dined-in and were overwhelmed by the bruschetta. When something so simple leaves even non-tomato lovers stunned then there is magic in the kitchen. The pasta dishes were near perfection, with harmonious flavors and generous (but not gluttonous) portions. This is authentic Italian and a delightful change of pace for the over-commercialized and adulterated pasta dishes that pass as Italian in the States. The dining room is alive with conversation and the staff dodges between the tables efficiently as they attend to the customers. Tune your ear for an accent, because the food isn't the only thing authentically Italian here. If you have to wait for a table your patience will be rewarded. Later in the week a long day with an irregular schedule found us sitting in the flat at 8pm completely exhausted with appetites on the rise. Pizza held an attraction, so we ordered takeaway (and more bruschetta!) In our opinion Princess Diana had impeccable taste in pizza. A crispy -but not crunchy- crust with amazing cheese and toppings filled the gaps in our appetite and left us quite sated.

For the third visit to London in a row we had dinner at Côte and for the third time we were completely satisfied. From starter to dessert absolutely nothing was lacking. This time we visited the location just off of High Street Kensington and arrived a bit past the evening rush, so our lack of a booking was not an issue. We enjoyed a leisurely dinner accompanied by a delightful and economically priced bottle of wine. Service was on par with our expectations from past visits, as was the food. We discovered that some of our local friends were also fans of the Côte chain and visited various locations on a regular basis. If you're looking for a solid choice our experience indicates that you can't go wrong choosing Côte. Consistency across three locations in a span of two years is a strong indication that their success is not left to chance.

Any trip to London is incomplete without a visit to Borough Market, even if it's only for lunch or a heavy snack. Even if you're not in the market for groceries you can find amazing items to take home such as infused oils and packaged foods. Our favorites are the toasted cheese sandwiches and Scotch eggs, but there are any number of other vendors to choose from. To borrow a well-known phrase, "This ain't your momma's grilled cheese sandwich!" I think there are three kinds of cheese (not that it matters) and some member of the leek/onion family mixed in there, trapped between two slices of amazing bread slathered in butter and toasted to perfection. (If my cardiologist is reading this, I only had one bite, promise!) Later in the day demand can out-strip supply, so arrive early to avoid disappointment. Just look for the green tents adjacent to the churchyard for an assortment of hot foods. The danger of Borough Market is your eyes being MUCH larger than your stomach and buying more of something than you can comfortably consume during your time in London. Most of the bulk foods are not packaged in a manner compatible with travel, so choose wisely.

We discovered The Port House on a previous visit and simply had to return. Their tapas menu is extensive, with plates to satisfy every conceivable taste and dietary requirement. An expansive wine list (heavy on Spanish selections) and, of course, a variety of fortified wines, can keep you occupied for hours and hours. Located on Strand just down from Trafalgar Square and just a couple of blocks south of Covent Garden, this is a great place to have dinner after an afternoon spent in either the National Gallery or strolling through Covent Garden. Early arrivals are generally not a problem without a booking, but if you'd like to arrive later in the evening a booking is highly recommended. Service is on a team basis and is generally solid, but don't be shy if it seems that your request is taking a while to deliver. The staff is eager to discuss menu selections and has extensive knowledge of the wine list, so there's no reason you should suffer an unpleasant surprise if you know what you like. The restaurant is primarily candle-lit, so I don't have any good photos to share.

Dining in London, mostly pubs, but not just for the beer.

As is our tradition when crossing multiple time zones our first meal leans heavily towards comfort food and good beverages. In London that means a pub with beer and cider. This trip we were fortunate enough to find ourselves just down the mews (that's British for "upscale alley filled with interesting apartments that used to be carriage houses and stables in centuries past") from a true gem of a pub.

We chose the Queen's Arms the first time based on the location. We went back for the food, the service, the drink selection, and the service. They hit everything dead-center and, if left to my own devices, I would have probably just arranged a table there for the week. It is a Gastro-Pub in the truest sense of the word and has a sister establishment several blocks to the west in the form of the Builder's Arms. 

I had one of the best, if not THE best, plates of sausage and mash I've ever had. Amazingly tender sausages with noticeable, but not overwhelming, amounts of herbs and spices and a gravy that wasn't the usual generic, caramelized onions drowned in an overly-sweet thin brown concoction - it was delicately flavored with enough body to stick to your fork and complemented the dish instead of being overwhelming. Others chose fish & chips, again, a departure from the generic pub-grub version. The cider-batter was tasty, the chips well cooked and the mushy peas had nice flavor. All the plates went back to the kitchen nearly clean enough to go back in the rack, if that gives you any indication of the flavor and quality of the dishes. The service was exceptional by any standard.

We made it back at the end of the week and managed to find a table on Saturday evening. I went to the bar to order food and drinks and, as if by magic, silverware and condiments appeared on the table before the order was placed. When I started to explain which table we were seated the young lady taking my order waved me off, saying she already knew which table was ours. Note that it was all of five minutes from the time we walked through the door until I was placing our order. 

Perhaps I should mention their service? 

I had the mint glazed lamb rump with crushed heritage potatoes, grilled baby leeks and red wine jus. It was simply amazing. I don't eat lamb often, but this is probably in the top three lamb dishes I've ever eaten. Everything about the dish was nearly perfect and the mint was understated, which only made me regret not ordering it the first time we visited. For dessert we shared an order of their salted caramel profiteroles served with salted caramel ice cream and Devonshire toffee sauce. I'll let the photo tell you what we thought of our dessert. 

Have I mentioned the service? Everyone smiles and answers questions without giving the impression that you're annoying them. While there appears to be a strong presence of locals they obviously get a steady stream of visitors, many of them attending events at the nearby Royal Albert Hall. I like this place so much I may very well choose our lodgings based on proximity to The Queen's Arms for future visits.

Given the residential nature of the location everyone is ushered indoors at 9 p.m. to keep the noise levels manageable. The Builder's Arms does have a beer garden, so if you're looking to have a later evening you may want to head over there. While I haven't visited I have a high degree of confidence that the experience is similar to the Queen's Arms.

The bar is well-stocked with just about anything you could want (although I can't imagine bothering to order spirits when you have so much good beer to choose from...) and the wine list was more than adequate. But again, with 8 beers available in casks and a like number under gas, why bother? Even with bodies two-deep at the bar the service was quick, attentive, and accurate. Some bar staff tend to get a little short if you're not Johnny-On-The-Spot, these folks put you at-ease and make sure they get your order right, and they do it with a smile.

Did I mention the great service?

As fate would have it our second evening in London came with a pleasant coincidence. My wife's uncle is an airline captain and her aunt is a flight attendant. A stroke of lucky scheduling had them working a flight that arrived in London the morning after we did, so we planned to meet for a late lunch/early dinner. He suggested three locations and after scanning menus we decided to meet at the Scarsdale Tavern on Edwardes Square.

If you're a fan of lamb the Scarsdale has a roasted lamb shoulder that gets rave reviews. I had more simple tastes and opted for the steak sandwich, which was quite tasty. They have a large selection of beers available and a lively and friendly staff. While our dinner order got a little munged up, the staff member responsible was a trainee and he accepted some good-natured ribbing with aplomb. As I was quick to point out when the apology was offered, I was in London, in excellent company, with plenty of good beer to choose from, so I wasn't really in a position to complain! So I had another pint before my food arrived. Oh, the horror! The Scarsdale is a popular destination with locals and visitors alike, so booking a table in advance is recommended if at all possible. The dining room is only open after six p.m., so prior to that it's first-come for the available seating in the bar and at the patio tables. A combination of awnings, umbrellas, and heaters help to keep things tolerable in all but the most extreme weather, so bring a jacket and settle in.

Saturday we were still battling jet-lag, for some reason this trip was more of a challenge in that regard than any other we could recall. We trekked over to Picadilly Circus to walk around and pick up a few kitschy souvenirs before stopping off at Burger & Lobster for dinner. Surprisingly enough we had an exceptionally reasonable wait for a Saturday evening and sat down to enjoy lobster rolls. Just as we remembered from our visit last December, they were perfectly prepared and absolutely delicious. The lobster was delicate and flavorful, served in a warm roll that was toasted on the inside and slathered in butter. Add their salad and fries to the mix and you've got a meal that it's difficult to find fault with. The atmosphere if fun and a bit on the noisy side, service is solid and the food is tasty. They're now all over the UK and have expanded to New York as well. If you have a chance to give one a try I highly recommend you do.

Sunday afternoon was spent at The Crabtree, found on many lists as one of several iconic London pubs. Their Sunday Roast menu is well done, offering beef, pork, and roast chicken. The staff was polite and attentive, which, beyond the menu, appears to be a key differentiator between "pubs" and "gastropubs." We met friends and enjoyed an afternoon of catching-up filled with plenty of beer and wine. Unfortunately, the weather was not optimal, so we sat inside, but there is ample outdoor seating that promises to be spectacular when the sun makes an appearance. The Crabtree isn't the simplest destination to reach, but it's well worth the effort required to make the trip.

Sort of a Holiday, but don't tell!

Our son graduated from college in the spring and intends to attend law school next year. With undergraduate degrees in Political Science and German he's considering various options for future employment, from corporate attorney to diplomatic/government service. Having recognized that there are countless numbers of people who apply to law school immediately after earning undergraduate degrees he began to seek out a program that would strengthen his credentials and provide some separation from the average applicant. He located a program in London and is now working towards an MA in International Relations.

Of course, being good parents, we couldn't just pack up a couple of suitcases and send him off on his own. We "needed" to make sure he was settled in properly, so we accompanied him across the pond as any good parents would. (In case you were wondering, this is where it would be proper for you to applaud our sacrifice.)

He applied and was accepted during the winter, so I started investigating travel options around mid-
April. Airfares were a bit more expensive than last fall, which I found curious, so I adopted a wait-and-see approach, checking various sites approximately weekly. Pricing remained fairly stagnant, then the Brexit vote happened and the prices on Virgin Atlantic fell significantly. This was the first time I considered Virgin for air travel, but it definitely won't be the last, more on that later.

I quickly consulted calendars and schedules, did the usual calculus of airfare pricing vs. the cost of an additional night or two, factored in some adjustment time prior to check-in at school, allowed for tracking down items that it simply didn't make sense to try and transport, such as dishes and cooking utensils, checked the opening times for a few attractions, consulted local friends, determined reasonable travel dates, outlined a plan, and booked our flights.

Having been to London several times prior we opted to rent a flat for this trip in the Kensington/Chelsea area. We've stayed in the neighborhood in the past and have friends who live nearby, so it made a lot of sense for us this trip since we'd be in town for over a week. The convenience of being able to fix breakfast ourselves as well as the occasional dinner after a long day can shave a significant amount from your food expenditures. An assortment of dining options in the neighborhood provide variety for unsettled appetites as well as choices to help keep budgets under control.

Hauling everything for a year took a bit of luggage, so I made arrangements with our favorite and ever-reliable car service, Eddie Manning, for our airport transfers. Unless you're traveling as a couple with very little luggage Eddie Manning is the best value I've ever found, especially when you're trying to navigate after an overnight flight.

Packing was reasonably methodical, with considered thought given to what was likely to be needed to survive a year in the remote wilderness of metropolitan London. How many suits? How many ties? Which shirts will make the cut and which ones will be left behind to languish in the closet for the year?

After an adventure in obtaining his student visa (which you can read about here) departure day arrived and we set out on yet another grand adventure. I will say, the new International terminal in Atlanta is as nice as I've visited and a pleasant place to start your journey abroad.

Pro Tip

I just read that a friend of a cousin lost her father to a heart attack in Costa Rica a couple of days ago. Tragically it was at her wedding, just after the Father-Daughter dance.

Now, in addition to dealing with the overwhelming shock and grief of the circumstances, the family is faced with the daunting (and expensive) task of re-patriating his body. As a SCUBA diver I have had a membership in DAN (Diver's Alert Network) for about twenty years. Not only do I have insurance for dive-related accidents anywhere in the world, my family is also covered for medical emergencies when traveling abroad - including repatriation of remains.

If you travel and don't have a DAN membership I highly recommend the investment, it's affordable and provides tremendous peace of mind.

You can find complete information on DAN membership here.

WTF Disney?

Not a trip report, just a short observation on trying to plan a trip.

Disney World is fairly close, we no longer have to adhere to school schedules, and as I've stated elsewhere we really enjoy the EPCOT Food & Wine Festival. While trying to plan a visit I've identified what I consider a fairly significant bug in the system.

Disney has offered all-inclusive packages for a long while, but has really been promoting them for the last five or six years. Each time we've investigated a vacation we've considered the Disney Dining Plan as an option. If you do the math (and plan accordingly) the dining plan is an excellent option and will ultimately save you a sizable sum of money.

However, if you're planning a trip with minimal lead time the dining options are so limited as to be virtually nonexistent. In other words, Disney is selling you something that they fundamentally can't deliver, unless you want to plan your days around available dining reservations. Since most people look at things such as Extra Magic Hours or offered performances to help plan their days this is pretty much a lost cause.

I'm not sure what the solution is, but for practical purposes it has eliminated these promotions from consideration unless we can plan a trip 5-6 months in advance (reservations open 180 days prior to your arrival.) Since, more often than not, promotions aren't advertised that far in advance, that pretty much means it's a lost cause.

Sweet 16 Weekend in Manhattan

When you're in boarding school 600 miles from home and your birthday falls during the week the options for a 16th birthday party are a little different. Our daughter opted for a weekend in Manhattan with dinner, a little shopping, and a play.

We took Amtrak up from Philadelphia and landed at Penn Station in the middle of the afternoon rush, which means LONG taxi lines. Fortunately it's not difficult to locate limo drivers who are looking to pick up a fare, which is actually more economical for a group larger than 3 with luggage, and we were quickly on our way to the Ameritania Hotel, located adjacent to the Late Night studios.

I first stayed at the Ameritania in 2000 when I was in town for a trade show. While the rest of the company stayed at the Roosevelt, my budget-conscious group chose more modest accommodations for less than half the cost. Back then the rooms were adequate and the staff was top-notch, but it was on par with the price point. When I started researching for this trip I decided to see what the old haunts looked like and discovered that the Ameritania had undergone a complete remodel in the interim and the photos of the property showed drastic improvements while the rates were still quite reasonable by New York standards, even if they were markedly higher than before.

To cut to the chase, the entire property is now modern, yet comfortable, and they've added a full bar so there's a place to relax and socialize without having to venture out. Rooms feature flat-panel televisions, comfortable beds with nice linens, showers with ample water pressure, and soft, fluffy towels. The fact that it's just a block down and a block over from the Carnegie Deli is just icing on the cake.

We kicked off the celebration with dinner at Le Cirque. Long ranked as one of the top restaurants worldwide, Le Cirque has launched the careers of many industry leaders such as Daniel Boulud, Rick Moonen, and Alex Stratta. Given the auspicious occasion we opted for the tasting menu and were absolutely blown away (as was expected.) Truffles, foams, gastriques, and mousses complimented brilliantly prepared lamb, scallops, lobster, fish, and beef. Everything was topped off with a range of desserts that were nothing less than pieces of edible art, as delightful for the eye as they were for the palette. The weather was relatively mild for mid-January, so we walked a few blocks after dinner to enjoy the sights and sounds of the city and avoid a food coma.

There's nothing like New York City at night, especially a crisp, clear, winter evening. As the marquees and billboards light up the workaday city disappears and the world showplace comes to life. Lines form at theaters, throngs collect outside bars and restaurants, street performers consolidate and Times Square becomes an amusement park with pliable moral guidelines.

Saturday was spent shopping. From Union Square to Columbus Circle there were no stones unturned. The males among us spent much of the time scouting coffee shops and planning the next stop on the tour while the females contemplated everything from heels to hats. After the shopping marathon we did manage a bit of a breather to rest and recharge prior to our evening festivities.

While Peter Luger was my preference our schedule didn't allow the flexibility that a trip to Brooklyn would have required. Based on a pleasant experience in years past, as well as being conveniently located midway between our hotel and the theater, we opted for dinner at Gallagher's Steakhouse. Opened in 1927, this NY institution still serves up an excellent dry-aged steak with capable staff, even if the decor has passed the point of "retro" and is approaching the "slightly tattered" mark. If you want frills you may want to consider dining elsewhere. If you want your money to show up on your plate and don't put stock in glitz and glamor then this is probably the place for you. We informed our waiter that we had tickets for a show a couple of blocks away and he made sure that our meal was well-paced to meet our deadline without making us feel rushed. We enjoyed a complete meal, from appetizers to dessert, and made it to the theater with time to spare while taking a reasonably casual stroll to cover the final two blocks.

The presentation of Chicago was adequate, but less than stunning. By all appearances a fair number of understudies were in the lineup and the lack of chemistry in the cast showed through by way of a few rough spots here and there. We've seen much better productions and would encourage you to investigate  closely before deciding on any show in order to avoid the same disappointment that we experienced. After the show the walk back to the hotel was invigorating and just long enough to work out the kinks before turning in and winding down our weekend. Sunday morning saw us back on the train for Philadelphia to return to the real world.