31 October 2016

Living As A Londoner (sort of...)

If my count is correct I've visited London nine times over the past 35 years, spending anywhere from three days to three weeks in and around the city. Those stays have been spread among local hotels and rental flats (apartments) in several parts of the city. There are advantages to each with respect to both convenience and economy, depending upon the number of people in your group, length of stay, and your desire to be self-sufficient vs. off-loading everything to others. We avoid large chains simply because we think part of the experience of being in London is staying in something other than a Hilton, Holiday Inn, or Best Western. (One disclaimer, we have stayed at Hilton properties at both Heathrow and Gatwick the night prior to early flights.)

When looking at London hotels the best resource we've found are reviews on Trip Advisor. Make note of the demographics of who wrote the review and consider their complaints. In my experience Americans are less tolerant of smaller spaces and quirkiness while people from the UK are more likely to leave critical reviews of food and service. Europeans tend to be reasonable overall barometers. I read an assortment of the best and worst reviews for each property that interests me and evaluate the timeframe and management response (if any) when making my decision. Almost every property these days has a website, so general information on the neighborhood and transit options should be readily available with just a few clicks. If you have any questions that the website fails to address an email (or phone call, in a pinch) should provide a timely resolution.

Rental flats can be a bit trickier to deal with. Some will be excluded due to minimum requirements (some can be as long as 30 days) others due to accessibility (3rd floor, no lift) and many due to affordability (£350 per night for a 1 bedroom flat will cover a room in a fairly plush hotel with excellent service.) If you do some research (with Google Maps opened in a spare tab) you can locate some excellent deals in amazing locations. But don't act in haste, as there are other things to consider other than getting the length of stay and amenities that you desire.

  • Is that first floor (second floor American) flat facing a busy street? If so, what time of year are you visiting? Air conditioning is a rarity in London as it would go unused 50+ weeks of the year more often than not, so the potential of opening windows to a busy street is something to keep in mind. 
  • What's in the neighborhood? (Google Maps with Street View is invaluable in this regard!) For example, on our recent trip, we knew there was a small market just across the street (unbeatable for quick snacks, a last minute bottle of water, or to replenish cream for your coffee first thing in the morning) a dry cleaner next door (packing light is pretty much a guarantee that you're going to need one) and an assortment of pubs, restaurants, and cafés up and down the street.
  • Where is the nearest grocery? (Waitrose, Sainsbury, Tesco, M&S Simply Food) 
  • What are the public transit options? Convenient bus stops and underground stations should not be undervalued, especially at the end of a long day of walking around the city. 
  • Which neighborhood are you considering? Is it a generally safe area? Is it centrally located or is every outing going to involve an extended trip? (Staying in Zone 1 on the Underground map is more economical in this aspect.)

So, what are the pros and cons of each choice? Obviously with a hotel you have regular linen service and, in most cases, a hot breakfast. You also have some level of concierge service - even at small, family run properties. They may not be able to acquire theater tickets for you, but they are a tremendous source of knowledge on how to get the most out of your time in London. On the down side, you may or may not have WiFi available and you will definitely have less space than in a flat. If it's your first trip a hotel is probably a better choice as it takes care of a lot of the thinking and planning and an answer to nearly every question is as close as the front desk.

If you're familiar with the city and comfortable "going native" then a rental flat can enhance your experience. There's something about going to the grocery and buying the basics. Don't forget your shopping bags - it will make you look like a pro and save you a few pence while helping to reduce waste. You make discoveries that can be enlightening as well as entertaining. Want a loaf of sliced bread? OK, do you prefer thin, medium, or thick sliced? Chips? (excuse me, 'Crisps') well, the grocery store may only have three or four varieties, but you can find a dozen different kinds of cream. Bacon? You're not likely to find a pound of it, but you can choose from several kinds of smoked bacon (theirs is back bacon) in cuts of different thickness as well as "streaky" bacon (from the belly.) Tea is abundant, as are biscuits (cookies to Americans) and if you're a fan of baked beans you'll think you've died and gone to heaven. The baked beans display in Sainsbury looks like the Campbell's Soup display at home.


The relatively simple task of cooking breakfast in a European kitchen can be educational. smoke detectors tend to be overly-sensitive by our standards and appliance controls may just as well be displayed in Klingon for as much sense as they make sometimes. Space in London comes at a premium, so everything tends to be scaled down. But despite all the quirks and challenges there is something decidedly rewarding about sitting around the table in "your" flat eating breakfast and planning the day. (Dishwashers are ubiquitous, so cleanup is reasonably simple.) By the same measure, coming in after a long day out and about and putting on a pot of tea wile you prop your feet up can be an amazing experience. London is a walking city, in spite of how much you may use available transportation you're going to cover a lot of ground on foot, and there will be at least one day that you kick off your shoes and surrender to the fatigue. On those days it's nice to call down to a nearby eatery for takeaway. (Delivery options are available as well, if you'd like to explore that service.) Of course, you are likely to find some odd things when you rent a flat. For example, we discovered that ours was stocked with "Tea" sugar, "Coffee" sugar, "Sugar" sugar and "Icing" sugar.

Regardless of which choice you make, both will afford you opportunities to enjoy local cafés. You can often find a simple afternoon tea for just a few pounds per person, much less than in a restaurant and with a much wider selection of pastries to choose from. If you're fortunate enough to find a neighborhood cafe that is worthy of multiple visits it doesn't take much to develop a rapport with the staff. When you return for a third, or perhaps fourth, visit don't be surprised if your pastries are sliced a little more generously or perhaps there's an extra nibble or two on the plate. More than likely the staff will strike up a conversation, providing an opportunity for you to connect with a local on a personal level.

Of course, nothing quite compares to a good neighborhood pub. While traditionally tipping hasn't been part of the pub scene, in some pubs there are now tip jars at the till. If you're so compelled certainly toss a few pence in the jar, but tipping on the same level as you might in the states for bar service would be considered excessively generous. When the bell rings for last call (generally between 10:30 and 11:00 pm) order quickly if you need another beverage and don't over-stay your welcome when you see the staff closing things down. It will be appreciated and they'll remember you on subsequent visits, hopefully for your polite behavior.

Having your own space provides an experience more like being a resident and less like being a tourist. It does require a bit more effort and a little planning, but it's well worth it, especially if you have familiarity with the local culture.

No comments:

Post a Comment