Best Laid Plans Fall Apart

13 April, 2017

Thursday morning broke as a typical spring day in London, slightly chilly and overcast. We didn't have much of an agenda and thought it would be enjoyable to stroll through Westminster Abbey. Although we've visited a number of times over the years there isn't a shortage of things to see and learn. A quick check of Google indicated that Thursdays were typically less crowded than other days of the week, so we hopped on the tube and headed over to Westminster.

When we exited the station the first thing we noticed were the barricades across the street put in place after the March terrorist attack on Westminster bridge, the next thing we noticed was the increased number of heavily armed Metropolitan Police officers in the area. Just across from the site of the attack in Parliament Square Garden a makeshift memorial for the victims.

As it turns out, Google didn't consider the additional traffic generated by a holiday week. There were two lines outside the Abbey, each stretching a couple hundred feet from the entrance. Since we weren't interested in using a significant amount of our day waiting in line we went around to the gift shop to look for a couple of items, took a few photos, and then decided to head over to Borough Market for lunch at two of our favorite spots.

 If you've read through the older archives of this blog you're already familiar with the object of my desire at Borough Market. Scotch Eggs from Scotchtails are simply amazing. They have been gracious enough to share their cooking technique and I hope to have an opportunity to try and replicate their divine creation in the near future. Look for them under the green umbrellas near Southwark Cathedral. If there's a queue don't let it put you off, they keep a steady stream of production and I've never had to wait more than a few minutes to be served.


In my opinion the other can't miss item is the toasted cheese sandwich from Kappacasein Dairy. They've graduated from the green umbrellas to a permanent shop on Stoney Street, just next to the Southwark Tavern. This isn't your father's grilled cheese sandwich. A blend of artisan cheeses enhanced by a sprinkling of leeks is toasted between two slices of the most amazing hand-cut bread you've likely ever experienced. While the queues don't move as quickly here as they do for scotch eggs, let me assure you that the wait is well worth the reward!

They also offer Raclette, which is, in its most basic form, melted cheese over boiled potatoes. (A cousin of poutine, if you will - same primary ingredients, different presentation.) The queue for Raclette is generally comparable to that for toasted cheese, so apparently they've got something going there as well. For me, I'll stick with the sandwich, thanks!

After lunch we caught the tube to Oxford Circus so we could stop by Liberty for a few odds-and-ends, primarily fabric requested by friends at home.

Between travel and shopping a fair amount of time passed, so we opted to grab afternoon tea in Café Liberty, which is one of our favorite places and an exceptional value. A large pot of tea with scones fresh from the oven, jam, and clotted cream is £10.95. They will gladly refill your teapot with hot water for a second steeping, and the quality of the tea is such that I can vouch that the English Breakfast holds up well. When they are busy it can take a few minutes to get the bill, so plan accordingly if you are under any scheduling pressure.

The rest of the afternoon was spent with our feet up in anticipation of meeting friends for dinner at Rocca, just down from the South Kensington tube station. If you're interested in a restaurant in good favor with locals and of low tourist density then you may want to give them a try. All our dishes were quite good, and our party covered the better part of the menu.

Dachau, Neuschwanstein, back to London

9 April, 2017

Sunday we booked a tour to Dachau with Radius Tours (they have an office in the Hauptbahnhof that offers guided tours to local attractions as well as bicycle rentals.) The fee is reasonable and includes all transportation between Munich and Dachau. I used them several years ago, so giving them repeat business should be an indication of my opinion of their operation.

My first visit to Dachau was in 2012, on a dreary day in March. Seeing it under clear, sunny skies on a pleasant April afternoon was quite a contrast and created quite an emotional paradox. To see flowers blooming and hear birds chirping under blue skies while immersed in a place of such profound human pain and suffering gives you plenty to contemplate.

While there was ample death and suffering at Dachau, it was not considered a death camp, but rather a research facility used as a prototype for other, more specialized, camps. There were camps used primarily for extermination. Dachau was an incubator, where various forms of torture or extermination were conceived, then these methods were implemented in other camps. Many of the notorious SS and Gestapo henchmen got their start at Dachau before being deployed to other locations, usually to implement the inhumane policies and processes they contrived. Until the end of the war Dachau and approximately 30 sub-camps in the area supplied labor at local factories for armament production, their overall goal being to extract maximum effort on minimum input to achieve the greatest efficiency of resources.

Visiting a concentration camp memorial site is a mentally taxing endeavor. I don't recommend planning to do much afterwards, as you will most likely be distracted by your thoughts. Following our own advice we opted for an early dinner back at Gaststätte Bavaria and an equally early turn-in in preparation for our visit to Neuschwanstein on Monday.

10 April, 2017
Neuschwanstein is an idyllic destination, commonly known in the U.S.A. as the "Cinderella Castle." This is a reasonable moniker, as of the eight or so European castles and chateaux that inspired the Disney design team Neuschwanstein had the most recognizable presentation in the finished product.

There are a multitude of options to choose from when making plans to get to Schwangau, everything from buses and trains to car services - there is something for every budget. No matter which option you choose I highly recommend pre-booking your tickets online. There is a small service fee, but the minimal added expense will save you considerable time at the ticket counter. When we visited the regular ticket queue was nearly an hour long. I waited less than five minutes to pick up our tickets. Entry is timed, so make sure your pre-booked tickets coincide with your travel plans. (More on timing in a moment.)
We were fortunate to have a local friend pick us up in Munich and drive us the hour and a half or so to Schwangau. Taking a road trip in a foreign country can be an enlightening experience, especially if you're familiar with road trips at home. Having a source of local knowledge to draw from was a tremendous benefit as well, but unfortunately it didn't help us avoid the vagaries of getting to the top of the hill for our tour.

There are three options to get from the ticket center to the castle. In order of cost (least to most) and effort required (most to least) they are:

• Walking
• Bus
• Horse-drawn Carriage

If you have an abundance of time and are in good to excellent physical condition then walking is certainly a viable option. I don't suggest choosing to walk simply to save a few Euros, you'll arrive at the top quite spent and probably a little annoyed. The bus is a reasonable compromise, but still leaves a bit of a walk at the top of the hill. The carriages get you as close to the castle as possible and still present a bit of an uphill walk, but it's quite manageable for most everyone who is reasonably mobile. Keep in mind that you will climb several flights of stairs after your tour of the castle begins and factor that in to your planning as well.

We chose the carriage and queued up for a ride an hour before our designated tour time, as suggested. It wasn't enough time due to the schedule of horse teams being swapped out. (Each team of horses only works a couple of hours, completing about four round-trips, with a water break at the top each time.) As it worked out, we arrived at the castle 15 minutes after our designated time and had to be re-booked on a later tour. Rescheduling is done on a space-available basis and you must visit the service desk (to the right inside the main castle entrance) to make arrangements. I suggest you queue up at least 1.5, if not 2 hours prior to your scheduled admission time, to make sure you're not tardy. There is a restaurant and snack bars "up top" in case you find yourself with excess time prior to your tour.

Overall, the spectacular views and sheer other-worldliness aspect of the castle are well worth the effort required to make the journey. However, I will say that the tour was a bit underwhelming and left us wanting for more detail. You're delivered a bit of a Cliff's Notes summary and, while I appreciate a novella wouldn't be practical, something akin to a nice short story would have been more satisfactory.

While you may be tempted to walk down after your tour, keep in mind that walking down a reasonably steep grade can be quite a challenge, especially after you're already tired. The carriage ride down is less expensive than the ride up and gives you a chance to catch your breath before tracking down your car or bus at the bottom, which are guaranteed to require walking.

We returned to Munich and descended on a long-time favorite, Augustiner-Keller, for dinner. The main hall was filled with energy, thanks to the music provided by a traditional band. We had a wonderful evening of conversation, good food and (as always) excellent beer. Unfortunately, we were told that they were out of starkbier (Maximator) - which was absolutely crushing!

11 April, 2017

After the exertion of the trip to Schwangau we decided Tuesday would be a good day to do a little casual shopping.  There were several knitting/sewing shops in central Munich my wife wanted to visit and the Viktualienmarkt was in full swing. (Oh, to have a kitchen and time to cook - the fresh produce was staggering!) Given the strength of the dollar vs. the euro we decided it was an excellent time to invest in a cuckoo clock and spent a fair amount of time selecting one that was interesting without being over-the-top with respect to music and activity. The VAT refund was a bit more than the cost of shipping, so we opted for delivery vs. attempting to transport it home on the airplane.

When we decided it was time for an afternoon snack we stopped by a favorite location, Zum Augustiner, for beer and obazder, a delectable cheese dip served with pretzels. Much to our surprise we were informed that Maximator was available, so we were able to enjoy a liter after all!

While we were in Munich I attempted to pre-pay for our return luggage on the Lufthansa website. Unfortunately their system didn't provide this functionality because I booked the tickets on a third-party service. Attempts to contact their customer service were unsuccessful as well. A complete failure with respect to customer service in that regard.

12 April, 2017
Wednesday we returned to London. Once again Munich airport security was thorough (my belt triggered the metal detector, cue thorough pat-down and hand-swab for explosive residue) but we were quickly on our way to the gate. Had we realized that the "gate" consisted of several flights of stairs to a bus loading platform we would have taken a different approach. Another ding against Lufthansa customer service. Fortunately I had been aware that my wife was fatigued from all the walking, so arrangements for Eddie Manning to pick us up at Heathrow were already confirmed (much to her surprise.) Our flight was uneventful, and we were quickly through immigration & customs and on our way back to The Harrington.

We enjoyed dinner at the Kensington Spaghetti House, one of our local standbys for a solid, uncomplicated meal. After a quick stop at Waitrose for a few necessities we called it a night.

On to Munich!

7 April, 2017

For our son's spring break we took a side trip to Munich for a few days and Friday was "moving day" courtesy of Lufthansa. I purposely avoided budget carriers such as EasyJet as I wasn't willing to go with a completely stripped-down airline. Unfortunately I booked the tickets on CheapFlights and received less than complete information.

Never again.

CheapFlights said we each got a checked bag. Lufthansa said not, based on the class of fare purchased. Mark one up to experience and strike CheapFlights off the list of travel planning resources, better to go directly to the airlines and know exactly what you're getting.

As you'd probably expect from a ("the"?) German carrier, the crew was efficient and the aircraft was spotless and in impeccable repair. We did have a delayed departure due to air traffic issues, but that was the only operational glitch we encountered. Arrival in Munich required a bus transfer from the parking pad to the terminal (not unusual for many international airports) so plan accordingly if that might present a problem for you.

German immigration was predictably efficient and courteous, and after a quick stop at a ticket kiosk (make sure you select your desired language before beginning) we boarded the S-Bahn to the Munich Hauptbahnhof. If you're going to central Munich there are a couple of options, one being a couple of stops closer than the other depending upon your exact destination. It's not really an issue unless you are under time pressure, it's just something to be aware of.

This trip we returned to the Hotel Jedermann, just a few blocks walk (or a short trolley ride when it's in service) down Bayerstraße from the Hbf. It's also in close proximity to Theresienwiese, the site of Oktoberfest. Having stayed here a few years ago we were familiar with the area and knew we could expect a clean & comfortable room with breakfast included at a reasonable rate. After checking in we enjoyed a traditional dinner just down the block at Gaststätte Bavaria. They serve Augustiner, which is our favorite Munich beer, with tasty dishes and decadent desserts, so it's a solid choice. As is the case with many restaurants in Munich, cash is preferred over cards, so plan accordingly. After salads and an assortment of tasty schnitzel variations we shared an apple strudel that was simply to die for.

Pro Tip: If you're not a hard-core beer enthusiast order a Radler, it's half beer, half lemony soda. Locals drink them as often as visitors, so no one with think anything of it.

8 April, 2017
Saturday was a raucous day; Borussia Dortmund was in town for a match with Bayern-Munich. Fans of both teams filled the city, each attired in their respective team colors and exchanging good-natured barbs and jeers at every turn. We strolled from Karlsplatz to Marienplatz, amazed at the size and abundance of white asparagus offered for sale along the way. There were also several street musicians performing with instruments ranging from accordions to a grand piano.
We ended up at Hofbräuhaus for lunch so that my wife could have
the full "beer hall" experience. Given the high profile soccer match even the Stammtisch (regular tables) were packed. We were lucky enough to find a table rather quickly in a remote corner, adjacent to a diverse group of Dortmund fans who were having great fun. They ranged in age from young adults to grandfathers, drinking and eating while offering good-natured harassment to any Bayern-Munich fans who happened to walk past their table. In most cases they would recite the B-M chant and cackle loudly in amusement as the opposition responded in similar fashion. We shared a large pretzel as an appetizer and, as usual, ended up ordering too much food. Fortunately we were well entertained by the enthusiastic fans and had plenty of beer available, so we were able to linger over our meals for an extended length of time. While Hofbräu can be a bit touristy they have a huge local following and the beer and food are quite good. The atmosphere is unlike anything you're likely to experience in the U.S.A. which puts it on the list of must-visit places in Munich.

After lunch we spent a bit of time visiting the Frauenkirche before trying to find a place to watch the football match on television. Eventually we landed at a sports bar and found a corner to stand in. Lesson learned - when planning your trip don't ignore the schedule for major sporting events. Had we realized in advance we would have booked a table somewhere (or even tried to get tickets) and had an even better experience. As it turned out we ended up meeting three other Americans - a gentleman in town on business and two young adults touring Europe on a two-week vacation. After Bayern-Munich trounced Dortmund 4-1 we were quite hungry. The young couple were headed to Hofbräu and we didn't have any better prospects, so we joined them for dinner.

Portable hydration station designed by a Bayern-Munich fan

All-in-all a wonderful example of enjoying a city and culture without a set agenda. We took in the sights, sounds, and abundant energy (supplied thanks to the raucous crowds of football fans) and just went with the flow. It was the epitome of my new philosophy of experiencing as opposed to just "seeing."

Buckingham Palace Opens for the Season

It took me 30 years after my first visit to tour the State Rooms at Buckingham Palace.

If you're in London during their opening season (generally late July-end of September) it's well worth your time. An audio guide is included and a special exhibition is part of the tour. (In 2016 The Queen's wardrobe was featured, in 2017 Royal Gifts are displayed.) After the conclusion of the interior tour you get to enjoy a long walk through the gardens to the exit. If the weather is nice you'd be hard pressed to find a better stroll. The exit is at the far end of the gardens, just down from Hyde Park Corner. They have just opened for this year and will remain open until October 1.
(click on the image below for more details)

If at all possible I cannot over-emphasize the convenience you'll enjoy by pre-booking your tickets. For all intents and purposes it reduces your queuing time to mere minutes, while others will be waiting for well over thirty minutes, if not an hour or more at peak times.

Time for a Pub Crawl! (Shocking, I know!)

6 April, 2017

If you're new to my blog this might be a twist, but for those who have followed along our journeys in the past, my affinity for beer (and English ales in particular) is well known. Based on geographic concerns and taking in to account some sort of meaningful connection we embarked on a crawl designed primarily around pubs well-known for their culinary offerings, with a couple of touristy-boozers tossed in to fill the gaps. There are nearly limitless ways to plan a crawl in London. Some will follow the "90 second rule" which says you can only walk for 90 seconds between pubs (believe me, there are plenty of places that this rule can be applied.) Others will choose a theme (old, new, assorted affiliations) and others will simply follow a route or choose an area. I lean towards planning a route while preferring older pubs with a bit of history, so the gastro pub focus of this crawl was a bit of a departure. Absolutely amazing weather on this April day rendered the destinations somewhat moot, as it was enjoyable walking about London with friends and having an excuse to drink a few pints.

Our group of intrepid adventurers started at the Holland Park tube station and headed for the Ladbroke Arms, a neighborhood pub that is nicely decorated (in typical London-pub fashion with abundant hanging baskets. If the weather is agreeable their outdoor terrace is a fantastic place to enjoy a pint, and if you're looking for a meal their seasonal menu is certainly worthy of your consideration. The kitchen does close for a few hours between lunch and dinner service, so take that under consideration when making dining plans. The Ladbroke was refurbished in 2016, but wasn't remodeled, so it still maintains it's age-old charm.

After enjoying our first pint we headed towards Notting Hill Gate tube station, which is just across the street from our second stop, The Prince Albert. Sporting a nice selection of ales as well as other beers, the indoor area may appear a bit crowded, especially on days that the Portobello Road market is open just down the way. Walk through the back door and check out the generous hidden courtyard. Some parts are covered by awnings and umbrellas, presenting options even when the weather may be less than perfect. We opted for a snack at this stop and the fish & chips (with thrice-fried chips) scored high marks. The scotch eggs were a bit inconsistent, with one being a bit overcooked, but the properly cooked portion was quite tasty.

A fair walk down Kensington Church Street delivered us to stop number three, The Churchill Arms. This pub is well known for two features. The first is quite evident as you approach; it is absolutely covered up with flower baskets. In the spring it can be difficult to differentiate where the flowers end and the building begins. The other item of note is the Thai (yes, you read that correctly) restaurant co-located on the premises. It gets rave reviews and is reported by many as the best Thai food in London. (Spoiler alert, I sampled the food in June, 2017, it was quite good. More in a later post!) The scents and aromas wafting through the pub were quite tantalizing, lending credence to the claims made on the restaurant. But alas, our plans didn't include a meal, so it was just pints for us. The decor of The Churchill Arms is best described as "Eclectic Churchill-kitsch." Every possible surface is covered with Churchill-related items. I have no idea how much of it is authentic, but the collection is entertaining my any measure. It is a Fuller's Pub, so the libations offered are quite predictable.

Continuing southward and crossing Kensington High Street we made our way to the Builder's Arms. Tucked away in what could nearly be described as a residential cul-de-sac, this Casque-Mark Pub is known for excellent service and a menu of incredible food enhanced with seasonal twists. If you're looking for a memorable meal this is certainly worthy of consideration, as is it's sister establishment, The Queen's Arms (which happens to be our next stop.) There's a nice courtyard out front and plenty of room inside, but I suggest booking a table for dinner if at all possible due to their popularity.

A few blocks east, tucked back in a quiet mews, you'll find The Queen's Arms. As reported previously this is an outstanding establishment in every regard, from the menu to the service to the beers offered. It is popular with crowds attending events at the nearby Royal Albert Hall, so judicious attention to event schedules and calling ahead to book a table are in your best interest if you're looking to dine in the early evening. Since it is in a quiet residential mews they do place an emphasis on keeping outdoor noise to a minimum in the late evening. We've dined here for dinner a few times as well as lunch and cannot over-emphasize the quality of their food. Their Casque-Mark certification indicates the quality of their ales and their service speaks for itself. No matter what the occasion, this is an excellent choice of pub and deserving of your custom.

As has become the custom with our crawls an ad-hoc stop was added to the itinerary. The Gloucester Arms was our "neighborhood" pub in September of 2016 when we stayed in a flat just across the street. It's a nice watering hole, with 3 cask ales and a selection of lagers along with Guinness and cider. A quick stop here and we were off down Gloucester Rd to the Stanhope. A bit of a touristy pub thanks to being located just across from the Gloucester Rd Underground Station, they have a reasonably wide selection of libations on offer and the staff does well managing the assortment of patrons that assault them on a steady basis. We've stopped in here off and on for thirty years and felt it only right to grab a pint in honor of our long "relationship" despite the close proximity to our final stop.

When we arrived at the Hereford Arms we were lucky enough to nab a table for dinner, which is a stroke of luck 99 nights out of 100. This noteworthy pub dates to the early-mid 1800's (exact dates are unclear) and draws a steady stream of locals as well as a fair share of tourists. Legends say it was a favorite haunt of Jack the Ripper, but that's a nebulous claim as he was never identified. There is a solid link to Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, who named his most famous character after a block of nearby flats. The staff here is on the young side and quite accommodating, especially in the mid-afternoon when business ebbs a bit and have a moment to chat. The food is quite good, from burgers to fish & chips to roast lamb and the specials off the board (which I recommend if you're there for a full meal.) We've been coming here for over 30 years and mark it as the first pub we ever visited, so it holds a special place.

Breakfast at Hogwarts!

Just received email from the WB Studio Tour in Leavesden. If you're interested tickets go on sale July 19! (click link below photo for full details)

Warner Brothers Studio Tour - Breakfast at Hogwarts

Enjoy a magical Sunday morning this summer with 'Breakfast at Hogwarts'.

Start your day with an exclusive breakfast reception in the iconic Great Hall. Lined with Cheeri-Owls and Pixie Puffs, the Great Hall trestle tables will be specially dressed for breakfast as they were in the magical film series.

After enjoying a selection of breakfast canapes, fresh pastries, fruit smoothies and bucks fizz, you will be joined in the Great Hall by staff members dressed in full Hogwarts uniforms for a complimentary photograph at the breakfast table.

You'll also have the chance to meet the award-winning filmmakers who helped bring the world of Harry Potter to life on-screen. Oscar winning Special Effects Supervisor, John Richardson, will demonstrate how the magnificent Chamber of Secrets door was created and Costume Designer, Laurent Guinci, will help you step into Professor Slughorn’s armchair suit for a unique photo opportunity.

Walk among the authentic sets and discover the behind the scenes secrets at the studios where it all began, ahead of the first tour of the day. Highlights include the Gryffindor common room, Dumbledore's office, the Weasley kitchen at The Burrow, the iconic Platform 9¾ that houses the original Hogwarts Express locomotive and, new for 2017, the Forbidden Forest.

Following a complimentary sample of Butterbeer in the Backlot Café, you will be able to step inside Harry Potter’s childhood home, number four Privet Drive, before wandering up the wizarding shopping street of Diagon Alley.

Sometimes You Just Need to Slow Down

5 April, 2017

As I may have previously mentioned, my wife is battling chronic kidney disease. This slows us down a bit from time to time, and today was one of those days.

A late morning was topped off with a "Full English" breakfast at Caffee Forum on Gloucester Rd. While some places will pass off a "Full English" as eggs, bacon, and beans with toast this establishment goes full-tilt with the inclusion of sausages, mushrooms, and grilled tomato. The first 100 coffee purchases each day get a free croissant, so if you end up hungry after all of that you may need to make an appointment with your doctor!

We've been periodic customers here for a decade and are fans of their breakfast baguettes as well as their croissants and sausage rolls for takeaway. If you need a bit of encouragement to get your crowd moving in the mornings it has been my experience that the aroma of fresh baked goods is a sure-fire method of coercion, and it also gives you the opportunity to grab a coffee beverage that is on-par with all the large chain shops. A case full of pastries and other deli offerings provides enough selection to satisfy all but the most extreme picky eater.

A lazy-day late breakfast led to a fabric shopping expedition just around the corner that lasted a couple of hours. Selecting, choosing from the selections, determining how much of each selection is wanted (is it for a future garment? a quilt project? a friend? or for the 'stash' - which is quilter-speak for "fabric I really like so much I might not ever use it.") - all of this has to be taken in to consideration!

My wife was still in recovery mode after the shopping expedition, so we returned to our rented flat at the apartment-hotel so she could relax and prepare for her visit the next day to the "Mothership" - Liberty London for the remainder of her fabric shopping "needs." Anyone who knows a quilter completely understands what I'm referring to.

Given a perfectly reasonable pub is located just around the corner I had no problem staking out a stool at the bar and enjoying a few beers over the afternoon while chatting with the New Zealand-born pub manager and whomever else happened by. Have I mentioned how entertaining and enlightening random pub conversations can be? In general the citizens of London are more worldly than the average American, and conversations lean more towards national and foreign policy than sports - although a pub on the day of a prominent rugby or football (soccer) match puts American sports bars to shame. Another major difference is the ability for people to have spirited discussions, even about their favorite sports team, while maintaining a decorous atmosphere. Insults and jabs will fly freely, but always in good fun and people tend to take as good as they give. Quite a contrast to what you might see at home.

What do you do for dinner in London when you want good food with minimal hassle? We go to Pret a Manger for a sandwich. Everything is made fresh and in many, many years we have yet to have anything that wasn't tasty. If you've had your fill of pies, roasts, and ethnic foods there's nothing wrong with a nice sandwich and a bag of crisps to satisfy an appetite.