Based on numerous recommendations we started the day with a Hop-On-Hop-Off bus tour. Reasonably priced at around $20 per person (depending upon the exact exchange rate) tickets are valid for 48 hours from time of first use and you are free to leave the bus at any stop to explore the sites in more detail, then re-join the tour on a later bus. With a stop immediately adjacent to the pier this made perfect sense as we didn't spend any time traveling to start the tour. Built-in audio guides are provided in multiple languages, making it quite convenient to get an overview of the city in just a circuit (or two, if you choose to take advantage of both offered routes.)
The age and overall beauty of the city will give you pause. Many structures date to the 1500's and reflect the vast wealth present in those days thanks to the burgeoning spice trade with India. The individual responsible for establishing that trade, Vasco da Gama, is entombed within the Church of Santa Maria in the Jerónimos Monastery. Located within the parish of Belém, it is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site along with the nearby Belém Tower, built in the 16th century to protect the Tagus river from pirates and enemy attacks. When it was built the tower was in the middle of the river but over the centuries the flow has shifted and now it sits at the edge. Just east of the Tower and directly south of the Monastery you'll find the Monument to the Discoveries, a ship-like structure erected in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator. In addition to the carving of Henry the monument also includes dozens of figures from Portuguese history and an adjacent square has a map showing the route of various explorers. If your time in Lisbon is limited beware of allowing these three sites to draw you in so deeply that you miss out on seeing more of the city. If time is not a factor I suggest allocating a minimum of four hours to cover these three must-see attractions.We hopped back on the bus and rode through town to the top of the Rua Augusta, where we hopped off the bus and walked down to the Praça do Comérico. It's an easy and pleasant stroll filled with shops, cafés, and restaurants. Make note of the intricate architectural details and ceramic tile walled buildings. Other than an earthquake in 1755, Lisbon has been spared both man-made and natural disasters, so centuries-old buildings with original detail are commonplace. The businesses along the
Rua Augusta are tourist-friendly and, generally speaking, you won't have any difficulty communicating despite a lack of Portuguese. As is generally the case a smile and some simple hand gestures along with 'please' and 'thank you' in the local language will take you reasonably far.
After plundering around a bit we were off to find a couple of shops that we had researched prior to the trip that were reported to have a nice selection of ceramics. After consulting our map we determined that it would be best to take a cab, which was located just across the street from where we happened to be standing. Enter Humberto Gonçalves, a true gentleman native to Lisbon. We gave him the address of the shop we were interested in, which turned out to be a red herring, having gone out of business some weeks prior. Humberto asked us what we were interested in and he suggested a shop in Alfama, the oldest part of the city. We negotiated a reasonable rate for the next couple of hours of his service and off we went.
We parked on a main road, walked between two buildings and were instantly transported back several hundred years. We found ourselves walking along narrow, winding, cobblestone passages that continuously rise and fall, with laundry hung to dry overhead and curious residents peeking out from windows above. It was simply mesmerizing.A reasonable walk around a couple of corners placed us at a shop full of amazing ceramics - with a nice selection of port, to boot! From vases and platters to wall hangings and teapots the hand-painted detail was stunning. We spent well over an hour browsing the ceramics and perusing the port. The big score of the trip was a bottle of Vintage port from my birth year. I also got a bottle of Ruby port that was outrageously affordable (about €6) that had incredible character. As is the usual custom, drivers are paid a commission on the sales that result from the business they bring in, and Humberto had a rather nice afternoon thanks to our shopping. He delivered us back to the ship with ample time to spare and helped us get our packages to the gangway before bidding us farewell. The next time we visit Lisbon (and I sincerely hope there is a next time) we hope to see Humberto again and enjoy even more of this amazing city.
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