"Travel engages me with our world and helps me feel fully alive, that's why I like it." –Rick Steves
27 June 2016
Breaking News
I just received email from the Harry Potter WB Studio Tour in Leavesden announcing another special event. In celebration of the 15th anniversary of Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone (aka Harry Potter Finding the Philosopher's Stone) From July 22 through September 5 they are featuring a special "Making Of" program and the door to Number 4 Privet Drive will remain open as well. See Devil's Snare and learn how to make your very own troll snot, unicorn blood, and three-headed dog drool! You can find more details at this link on the WB Studio website.
Labels:
Harry Potter,
Leavesden,
Privet Drive,
Studio Tour
Carnival Glory
A summer vacation with our two college kids and our son's roommate in July, 2015. We had discount certificates that were about to expire, so that was a significant factor in our decision making process. We've found that the ports of call on most Western Caribbean itineraries suit us well, so all of those considerations combined to narrow our list of likely choices. We had never cruised on one of the larger Carnival ships, so this was a new experience for us.
First, the ship. There were a few hits and a few misses.
First, the hits. Guy's Burger Joint takes the poolside grill to a whole new level. The menu has several recommended options, but you can build your own and then finish it off with even more options at the toppings bar. The hand-cut fries are just what you'd expect and the proper side for a burger of this stature. While we enjoy a good burger, the Blue Iguana Cantina was our favorite lunch spot by far. Think Moe's or Chipotle on the high seas. (No, not exactly the same, but a scaled-down concept offering similar food.) You can get burritos or tacos made to order. The protein offerings are on a rotation basis. I didn't make notes, but I recall chicken available every day (which was tasty) with beef of some description as well as pork and fish also available intermittently. The salsa bar has a wide assortment of toppings to finish things off and a selection of hot sauces who think that "just hot" isn't hot enough. Pro Tip: Unless you just MUST have a burrito, head for the tacos. The line is consistently shorter (usually non-existent) and you'll probably finish your tacos before you would even make it through the burrito line. If you're like me and enjoy a little variety you can mix things up with the tacos, but eating more than a single burrito would be a challenge. Breakfast and SeaDay Brunch in the dining room was consistently good in all respects; both food and service. For something fun, try their French Toast options, crusted in popular breakfast cereals. The entertainment options on board were on-par with what you should expect and the cruise director and his team did a nice job.
The misses weren't horrific, but they were noticeable. First, the buffet. The layout is perplexing and it is obvious that no one with an eye towards crowd flow was consulted during the design phase. There are copious bottlenecks, to such an extreme that we didn't set foot in the place after the Welcome Aboard lunch. It just wasn't a comfortable atmosphere. When we went to the dining room the first night we discovered that they intended for a party of eleven to occupy a table designed for ten. They sent us to the other dining room, where much confusion ensued. We struggled through dinner a bit the first night, but kudos to the wait staff for adapting quickly and pulling it off with minimal trouble, since we were seated after most guests had their entrees. We ended up being assigned to yet another table for the remainder of the cruise and while the wait staff was wonderful the cocktail waitress constantly hounded us about my son (who was 22) and wether or not he should be drinking wine with dinner.
The musicians on our trip were good. The comedians (and comediennes) were fantastic. I'd say that the George Lopez Comedy program on Carnival is one of the best things going in the cruise industry these days. My wife and I aren't much for nightclubs, but our college kids had fun at the disco and hamming it up at the various photo backdrops around the ship in the evenings.
We made plans for cave tubing in Belize with a local operator. Their excursion promised minimal walking and a higher degree of service than the excursions advertised by the cruise line. Unfortunately the weather was pretty lousy the day the ship was in Belize so we decided to cancel. Despite the prospect of being in the water most of the day the thought of being in the water and pelted by rain just wasn't an appealing concept.
Cozumel is always one of our favorite ports, because Cozumel means Pancho's Backyard Grill and some of the best margaritas to be found. Their guacamole is a personal favorite, as are the taquitos. Over the years (I think our first visit was in ~1996) we've sampled most everything on the menu and have yet to be disappointed. I'm always in favor of a margarita or three and lighter fare, such as chips, guacamole, pico, and salsa. After eating (and drinking) our fill we strolled back towards the city center, doing a little shopping here and there along the way. Los Cinco Soles (attached to Pancho's) has some interesting glassware and souvenirs, so make sure you check that out. In the main square you'll find an assortment of stores offering everything from small batch tequilas to sombreros and t-shirts. As with anything, take your time and keep your wits about you. You'll pay a bit more for shirts at places like Pirhana Joe and Mirro, but they will last for years and years. I have some that are 20 years old and other than being a bit faded they are still in good condition.

The best selection of tequilas I've encountered are at the Forum Shops, just to the North of Los Cinco Soles. Bottles lined up along a bar about 15 feet long of every tequila imaginable. Don't try to taste them all! I suggest having an idea of what you're interested in and go from there. After you've tasted 4 or 5 it becomes an exercise in futility and there's no telling what you might end up with. Obviously don't waste your time and effort tasting what you've already had, and don't assume that the most expensive is going to be better than everything else. As is the case with all libations, the best is whatever you enjoy!
We didn't have any firm plans for our day on Grand Cayman, so we ended up at one of the local "rental chair" clubs on Seven Mile Beach and spent the day either in the water or sitting in the sun. While it wasn't what I would ever characterize as "exciting" it was a fun and relaxing day. We even managed a reasonable amount of exercise while we swam around and were in need of a nap before dinner after we returned to the ship.
Our remaining "port" day was spent at Mahogany Bay. The kids went on a SNUBA adventure and we spent the day lounging on the beach and floating in the water. It was quite crowded and would have been a bit uncomfortable if the breeze had ever failed us. There was a lot of vegetation floating in the water, and this was a bit annoying as it tended to be scratchy when it came in contact with you. There is a small shopping area with Carnival-sanctioned shops, so you have one last chance to make a purchase other than on the ship.
Carnival does a nice job, but their clientele lives up to their "Fun Ship" moniker, so you should always be prepared for a more raucous crowd than what you might find on Royal Caribbean, Princess, or Norwegian.
23 June 2016
Getaway on Carnival Ecstasy
The Ecstasy had just moved to Charleston in February if I understand correctly. I was told that this now makes two ships operating from the port. There has been much talk of a large cruise terminal being constructed but apparently this plan is tied up in the courts, so progress is stalled. If and when a "real" cruise terminal is constructed the rumor is that other lines will start service, making Charleston a significant departure point on the east coast.
Our four day cruise was quite enjoyable. The weather was marginal the first sea day, but the following two days were warm enough to push you to the shade for a periodic break from the sun. The final day at sea was nice, but understandably cooler as we made our way back to the north. We had great service from both our cabin and dining room staff, which tends to be the norm on smaller Carnival ships. Bar staff were uniformly on their game, despite the constant onslaught of patrons. Cocktail wait staff seemed to struggle a bit and there were a few times that we had to actively solicit one to take an order. I'm not sure what to attribute this to, but these cruises do tend to attract a more raucous and party-minded crowd.
Overall a nice, relaxing getaway. Not the greatest cruise, but nothing to be disappointed about at all.
20 June 2016
Hopping the Pond
22 December, 2015
We began our segment of an extended family vacation "today." My Mom and younger sister departed for London a few days prior, now my family is going to join her and my older sister and her extended family will be arriving December 27. By a stroke of luck (and perhaps an anomaly created by the USAir-American Airlines merger) our overseas flight was PHL-LHR with a 10am departure and a 10pm arrival. Unfortunately it appears that this flight no longer exists on the schedule (or perhaps it's only offered on a seasonal basis.) In any case, arriving in the evening after a day of travel is much more enjoyable than arriving in the morning without being able to figure out which way is up. After clearing immigration and customs we stopped in at the M&S Simply Food to grab sandwiches instead of leaving to chance what we might be able to locate between the airport and the flat. Our ever-reliable and efficient driver, Eddie Manning, was waiting for us in the arrivals area and in short order had everything loaded in his van and we were on our way.There are a few situations that I strongly recommend that you consider a car service for your airport transfer, assuming you're staying in London proper.
- You have a group larger than three. (A single van is more affordable than two taxis.)
- Your accommodations in London are not within a short walk of Paddington Station. (Heathrow Express is fairly convenient, but if you need a taxi on the other end the savings will likely evaporate.)
- Your luggage amounts to more than a single suitcase and personal item for each person. (Taxis have limited space and wrestling things aboard the train can be a challenge.)
These are just some of the most obvious situations. In our case we would have needed at least two taxis at approximately £60 each. Even with a modest fee for an additional errand before meeting us at the airport our quoted rate for a luxury van reflected a savings for a significantly higher level of service. When you consider that you also get to enjoy the company of an informed and knowledgable local during the drive you simply can't go wrong. Eddie delivered us to the flat, helped unload and placed all the luggage in the lobby of the flat.
Oh, the flat. What a stunning property in an absolutely phenomenal location! It took a good bit of searching to find, and a fair amount of effort to book, but it was definitely worth it in the long run. 9 Hertford Street is in the middle of Shepherd's Market, just a few minutes walk from the Green Park underground station one way and they Hyde Park station the other. Hard Rock Cafe London is just around the corner and there are several pubs and restaurants within just a couple of blocks of the front door. A convenience store is nearby for beverages and light snacks with Tesco Express and M&S Food just a little further. There's even a Sainsbury about seven blocks away where you can buy nearly anything you might need. It is just across Green Park from Buckingham Palace and a reasonable walk from other sites such as Westminster Abbey, the Banqueting House, and the Churchill War Rooms. Shopping is, at most, a short cab or tube ride away. Regent and Oxford Streets in one direction, Harrods in the other. They offer several single bedroom units and a single three bedroom unit. The three bedroom unit is an excellent value, assuming you will fill the bed space. We found it to be less expensive than a luxury hotel and only slightly more expensive than moderately priced hotels. When the savings are factored in for being able to prepare breakfasts and having snacks at hand I calculate, at worst, a break-even proposition when compared to moderate hotels. The amount of space is staggering, especially by London standards. Satellite television, WiFi and central HVAC are icing on the cake. The property management staff are as good as you'll ever find and provide exceptional service in every aspect imaginable. If you're in the market for luxury accommodation I give this property my highest endorsement. When you visit their website and look at the photographs rest assured that there isn't any trickery involved, they are a true representation of the property. It is truly magnificent.
Labels:
9 Herfford St,
Eddie Manning,
London,
Managed Flats,
Mayfair,
Shepherd's Market
Location:
Hertford St, London W1J, UK
16 June 2016
First Day in London!
23 December, 2015

My daughter says the noodle dishes (of somewhat nebulous Far-Eastern origin) are excellent as well.

Labels:
Borough Market,
Buger & Lobster,
King's Arms,
London,
Pint,
Scotch Egg,
Shepherd's Market
Location:
London SE1 9AL, UK
13 June 2016
Christmas Eve
24 December, 2015
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Fortnum & Mason Window Display |
visit. I finally selected a scarf for my son, somewhat in the colors of his fraternity, before going a few doors towards Piccadilly Circus to another of our favorite stores, Hatchards.
Hatchards has been in the book business since 1787 and hold three Royal Warrants. If you are a bibliophile it is easy to fall down the rabbit hole and spend hour upon hour browsing the stacks. You'll usually find a table filled with signed copies of new editions just inside the front door. If you're looking for books about anything related to the UK then this is the place to look. If you happen to be a book collector they also have a selection of rare and first edition books to choose from. While books can add a bit of weight to your suitcase they do have the benefit of being free of VAT. These folks still put out a catalog of new releases, complete with reviews by members of their staff. It really is a departure from the big-box book sellers in the states. If you have a question about a book the odds are reasonable that someone on staff has read it. Your purchase will be placed in a real shopping bag, made of paper with rope handles. No flimsy plastic to tear open under the weight of a couple of books.
Hatchards has been in the book business since 1787 and hold three Royal Warrants. If you are a bibliophile it is easy to fall down the rabbit hole and spend hour upon hour browsing the stacks. You'll usually find a table filled with signed copies of new editions just inside the front door. If you're looking for books about anything related to the UK then this is the place to look. If you happen to be a book collector they also have a selection of rare and first edition books to choose from. While books can add a bit of weight to your suitcase they do have the benefit of being free of VAT. These folks still put out a catalog of new releases, complete with reviews by members of their staff. It really is a departure from the big-box book sellers in the states. If you have a question about a book the odds are reasonable that someone on staff has read it. Your purchase will be placed in a real shopping bag, made of paper with rope handles. No flimsy plastic to tear open under the weight of a couple of books.

After dinner we grabbed a taxi over to St Paul's Cathedral for midnight mass. While it was a bit chilly, it wasn't unbearable, but would have been much better with a warm beverage. Everything we found online recommended that we arrive at least 1.5 hours prior to the service in order to be assured of a seat. The crowd was lively and conversation flowed fairly well between complete strangers, which helped shorten the apparent length of time we waited. The Cathedral Chapter could easily augment their coffers by a significant amount if they were to set up a vending service for coffee, tea, and cocoa prior to the midnight service. The doors opened at the appointed time and we were able to procure seats just outside the main dome. This was the third time we attended a service at the Cathedral, the first being Easter Sunday 2007 (which we'll get to eventually in this blog) and the second being a Sunday evening "Talk" event that featured one of the Deacons of the Cathedral, who happened to be a PhD in Astrophysics, chatting with one of the Priests concerning finding balance between science and religion. This was, perhaps, the most interesting religious service I've ever attended. Regardless of your level of devotion to Christianity and religious observances, hearing the organ and the choir in concert for the processional will send a shiver up your spine. When you pause to consider that services have been held in this building since 1697 it can quickly put a lump in your throat. I consider St Paul's one of the three "must see" sites in London (the other two being the Tower of London and Westminster Abbey) so even if you don't have the opportunity to attend a service you should plan a visit to see it from an historical perspective. The building is awe-inspiring from the perspectives of both architecture as well as content.
After the service a Metropolitan Police officer was out front directing the taxi loading zone, which was running quickly and efficiently. We made it home not long after midnight without any hassle. The streets of London were eerily vacant, which was a sight unto itself.
Labels:
Côte,
Fortnum & Mason,
Hatchards,
Midnight Mass,
St Paul's Cathedral,
Taxi
Location:
Mayfair, London, UK
10 June 2016
Merry Christmas!
25 December, 2015
We started the day with a traditional "Full English" breakfast cooked in the flat; eggs, bacon, sausages, baked beans, grilled tomato, mushrooms and toast. In the spirit of holiday excess we augmented this with bagels & lox as well as scones with jam and clotted cream. Round it out with tea, coffee, and juice to complete the morning feast.
Afterwards we opened gifts and a few small Christmas Crackers. We drew names and everyone went shopping on Christmas Eve so that we'd have small gifts to exchange. After opening our creatively-wrapped gifts we played games for a while and watched Christmas movies (A Christmas Story, of course!) on DVD from the laptop which was connected to the television with an HDMI cable I carry in my computer bag. We had reservations late in the afternoon for dinner at a well-reviewed gastro-pub just a few blocks away.

The rest of the evening was spent in a food coma, somewhat tempered by a raucous game of Cards Against Humanity and a few libations to help the digestive process along. While it was definitely a Christmas day much different than any other we have ever experienced it was quite enjoyable and a pleasant change of pace. We certainly missed the routine of our usual visits to extended family, but the variety was fun. It has certainly opened the door to future variations on established family traditions.
Location:
Hertford St, London W1J, UK
07 June 2016
Boxing Day

26 December, 2015
Saturday evening we had dinner at Shepherd's Tavern consisting of usual pub-grub (with beers and cider, depending upon personal taste) and then went to see Wicked at the Apollo Victoria Theater. We saw it previously in 2011 and it was among the top three theater productions I've ever seen. While it was good this time it was not up to the expectations set previously. I suspect that, due to the holiday, we may have seen a few understudies in the cast. It is a great story and I recommend it, but suggest considering holidays and such when planning which show to attend.
Labels:
Boxing Day,
Oyster Card,
Pub Grub,
Shepherd's Tavern,
Theater,
Travel Card,
Wicked
Location:
Piccadilly Circus, London, UK
03 June 2016
Hogwarts, or at least as close as you can get.
27 December, 2015
If you're a fan of Harry Potter then this is worth a visit. Admission is timed and space is limited (although not as limited as I'd like) so check the website and heed their instructions with respect to arrival and collecting your tickets. If you just show up you are likely to be disappointed.This was our second visit, and that alone should tell you quite a bit. We did have additional family with us who hadn't visited before, so that contributed to the decision- making process, but we also knew things would be decorated for the holidays. Since we first visited in spring of 2014 they have added several new sections, including the Hogwarts Express. If you're a Harry Potter fan then there is no room for debate, visiting the studio is a moral imperative. Tickets are a bit pricey, but definitely represent a good value overall with the new spaces as it helps significantly with the crowd issues we experienced our first visit. You can photograph practically everything and other than the initial section of the tour (which I won't reveal here) you are free to move around the exhibits at-will.

When you arrive at Watford Junction you'll find double-decker Harry Potter buses waiting to take you to the studio. It's £2 per person, round trip (the best value you're likely to find in all of England) and the buses are new and spotless. Unfortunately, they're not triple-deckers like the Night Bus and Ernie won't be driving nor will you find Stan Shunpike working as conductor.
When you arrive the outside of the sound stage will likely inspire you to stop for photos, as will the chess pieces sitting out front. (If they don't you may want to ask yourself why you're there in the first place and see if you can sell your ticket to someone else.) Look for the self-service kiosks just to the right of the entrance door and collect your tickets if you don't already have them. The audio guide has some neat information, but unless you have hours and hours and are willing to ignore the rest of your group for the duration of your tour I don't advise renting one, there's plenty to experience without it.
I won't go in to too many details of the tour itself because I don't want to introduce spoilers. Hopefully this explains my reserved selection of photos. If you want to know if a specific item is included on the tour send me a private message and I'll be glad to share details privately.
About halfway through the tour you can purchase a glass of Butterbeer - look for the refreshment stand to the right (just in front of #4 Privet Drive) as the lines tend to be shorter/non-existent. I recommend AGAINST buying one for each member of your party (at least at first) as some people don't find it appetizing (think cream soda with butterscotch foam on top) There are tables if you want to have a snack before continuing.
As is the case with most things, the tour ends at the gift shop. 😉 The selection of products offered is overwhelming, so shop carefully (especially if you have to consider luggage allowances for a flight home.)
Dinner was an intended indulgence that ended up being a bit of a disappointment. My first experience with Nobu was in New York City almost 20 years ago and it was absolutely incredible. Every single thing we ordered was among the best food I've ever eaten. I've been to Nobu NYC a couple of times in the years since and had nearly identical experiences each time. If you were a fan of the original Iron Chef America series you may recall Iron Chef Japan, Masaharu Morimoto. While he opened his first eponymous restaurant in Philadelphia in 2001 he was head chef at Nobu prior to that. So, knowing that my family would enjoy the same, I booked a table weeks in advance at Nobu Berkeley Square.
While the service and food were good, they were not up to the standard of what I've
experienced at both Nobu and Morimoto in Philadelphia over the years. Everything was prepared well and the quality of the ingredients were certainly of a high caliber, but it kind of fizzled by comparison. This is a restaurant that should produce a steady stream of superlatives with every dish and it falls well short of that mark. The miso-
glazed black cod was probably the best dish overall and the only dish that I'd characterize as memorable, but you don't come to a restaurant like this to be favorably impressed by a single dish. In summary, if you're looking for a memorable dining experience in London this is not it. If you're looking to be absolutely amazed by some of the best Japanese cuisine you can find in the Western world then stick to Nobu and Next Door Nobu in New York or Morimoto in Philadelphia. Nobu Berekely Square just does not provide the experience that their price demands.
Labels:
Harry Potter,
Hogwarts,
Leavesden,
magic,
Morimoto,
Muggles,
Nobu,
Studio Tour,
Sushi,
Warner Bros
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