Rome - Vatican

31 October, 2024

For some reason jet lag was exceptionally bad on this trip, and even on our third morning we were still struggling to get up and out. With a 15:00 meeting time with Fabio at the Vatican Museum we had plenty of time to grab a coffee and croissant (caffé e cornetto) and check out a store Lourie was interested in before going to our meeting point.

We found  Cantiani on Via Cola di Rienzo and I had another opportunity to use some of my limited Italian. We sat at a table in a shady spot on the sidewalk and enjoyed a late leisurely breakfast. Afterwards we walked down the block to L'Erbolario, a cosmetic shop, for a specific product that my wife had identified in her research. 

Vatican Wall

Around 14:00 we started making our way to our meeting point on Viale Vaticano. On the way we encountered some of the local scalpers/scammers at the intersection of Viale Vaticano and Via Leone IV. Wearing blazers and official-looking name tags, these individuals will demand to see your tickets before allowing you to access the sidewalk adjacent to the Vatican. If you don't have tickets they will direct you to their counterparts who will gladly sell you a ticket – a ticket that may or may not be legitimate, and if it is legitimate it's guaranteed to be at a significantly inflated price. When we were challenged I informed the lady that we already had tickets and were on our way to meet our guide. She blocked our access to the sidewalk, so we crossed Viale Vaticano and walked up the opposite side of the street, which was actually where we needed to go, anyway. As we walked westward on Viale Vaticano we encountered additional solicitors, dressed in the same uniform, who came just short of forcing us off the sidewalk and in to their storefront. As we were waiting, just next to Caffé Vaticano, we were approached by two more members of the group who were reluctant to take 'no' for an answer.

Fabio arrived a few minutes before the appointed time. After I shared our experience with the overly-aggressive promoters he approached a nearby poliziotto who then cleared the sidewalk of illicit promoters. 

Getting through the line and security screening took just a couple of minutes (timed entry means timed entry in this environment!) Up an escalator, out the door, and we were on a beautiful terrace. We grabbed an empty bench and Fabio gave us a crash course on general Vatican history, the Sistine Chapel, and the contents of the Vatican Museum. Since photos and active guiding are not allowed in the Sistine Chapel this is the only opportunity for a briefing, as your trip through the museum ends in the chapel. Fabio had an excellent presentation and explained the connection between all the major elements, and pointed out the finer details that merited notice within the chapel. The museum wraps around the Pinecone Courtyard and is filled primarily with paintings and sculptures. 

Gallery of Maps

Visiting a mostly untaxed City-State that has a reputation for doing great good and great harm in the world is fraught with conflict. The value of the museum collection alone is estimated to be well over $10B, and some estimates put it closer to $15B – but how do you value ancient, one-of-a-kind items? The Vatican's real estate and cash portfolio is estimated to be a similar sum, and the Vatican Investment Office reported a profit of nearly $50M for 2023 and paid the Italian government roughly $9M in property taxes for holdings outside the Vatican walls (where it doesn't tax itself, logically.) This controversy, when coupled with a reputation for closing ranks and shielding it's own from accusations of sexual abuse, generates significant friction beyond the Catholic world. In full awareness of these issues I consider a visit to the Vatican as compelling as a visit to Berchtesgaden or Fredericksburg – the history is more important than the political statement. Is there a better way to understand, other than learning? The Vatican was everything I anticipated. Ornate, opulent, over-the-top in every respect. Staff is scattered about to assist with crowd flow and as a reminder that even though you may not be aware, you are being observed, so "hands-off." Other than a few bottlenecks, primarily at corners – such as around Nero's Bathtub, a vast basin carved of Imperial Porphyry with an estimated value of two billion USD – the flow through the museum is steady and not terribly crowded. The Gallery of Maps could consume several hours all by itself, but a steady casual stroll will allow you to take in a huge portion of the display. It was, by far, my favorite overall section of the museum. There are many stunning sculptures scattered throughout, but as far as a single section, this was it for me.

St Peter's Altar

After you exit the museum you descent a set of stairs to the rear entry of the Sistine Chapel. None of the books or websites you've seen even begin to do it justice. If you've seen either The Two Popes or Conclave then you have a reasonable idea of what you're in for when you step through the door; the sets used for those productions are shockingly accurate. The museum in general has no rules pertaining to noise, but it is forbidden to speak above a whisper in the chapel. The crowd will occasionally get a bit too vocal, and staff will respond with an exaggerated "SHUSH" or a polite announcement reminding visitors that they are in a sacred space and they should conduct themselves accordingly to keep from disturbing the quiet contemplation and enjoyment of others. 

Exiting the Sistine Chapel you descend a long, wide, staircase to the entry of St Peter's Basilica. You pass the set of Holy Doors to the Basilica, only opened by the Pope on Jubilee years. Jubilee years are "regularly" every 25 years, but the Pope may declare any year to be an "Extraordinary Jubilee" as Pope Francis did when he declared a Jubilee in 2015-2016. There are four sets of Holy Doors in Rome, located at each of the Papal Basilicas. 

The other three sets are located at:

St Peter's Square

• St Lateran (Arcibasilica di San Giovanni in Laterno)
• St Paul Outside the Walls (San Paolo Fuori le Mure)
• St Mary Major (Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore) 

St Peter's square is much smaller in person than it appears on television, and more elegant. Swiss Guards are posted along the inner edge of the square and Italian Police freely patrol back and forth along both sides of the border between Vatican City and Italy. The street just beyond the square is filled with shops of all descriptions as well as cafes. If you're going to request an Uber, this is where you'll be picked up. There are many traffic flow restrictions, so pay close attention to the pick up area designated in your rideshare app.

Our dinner reservations this evening came at the recommendation of a co-worker who visited Rome on his honeymoon a few years ago. He placed Da Francesca at the top of his list and his assessment was accurate. We opted for an outside table on a cool and clear Halloween evening. Once again the quality of the food obliterated anything comparable we've ever had outside Rome. The wine list was extensive and diverse, I chose a Chianti – surprise – that was magnificent. We enjoyed young trick-or-treaters strolling up and down the street in costume all evening. My wife even pulled some candy out of her purse and distributed it among the costumed children seated at a nearby table. The children were thrilled to add a bit more candy to their collection, their parents were gracious, and it gave a couple of grandparents far from home a bit of a fix. 

Fontana del Bernini