Rome - Colosseum & Roman Forum

30 October, 2024

Jet lag was still a challenge. Fortunately we weren't scheduled to meet our guide until 13:30!

By the time I was caffeinated enough to go out there were limited options for a bite of food. I grabbed a couple of slices from a counter service pizza shop down the block and brought them back to the room. The staff spoke enough English, and I speak enough Italian, that the transaction was straightforward. I really need to work on my Italian number vocabulary, that seems to be an area that DuoLingo glosses over. Being able to count to twenty or so usually provides a good grasp on the foundational aspects of numbering and would make most verbal transactions easier to navigate.

Beautiful weather, waiting for Fabio

We arrived at the designated meeting point a bit early and Fabio walked up at the appointed time as if he were drop-shipped from a catalog of handsome Italian guides. As we walked to the entrance of the Colosseum he unloaded a steady stream of information covering the exterior façade and the progression of construction and reconstruction over the centuries. Grasping the scope of the venue in the context of the era it was built can be a challenge. Construction began in 72AD and it was used for approximately 350 years. An estimated 400,000 people perished in the name of bloodsport entertainment, including gladiators, slaves, prisoners, convicts, and other entertainers. There were multiple seating levels, designated entry points (the Emperor had his own) labeled sections, and a ticketing system based on engraved tokens. The sewers under the Colosseum have been extensively excavated, producing bones from victims, animals used for battle, and smaller animals likely served as meals/concessions to spectators. Tokens, hair combs, saucers, and bowls among myriad other items. 

Modern "lion" housing

While animals are no longer used for entertainment at the Colosseum, they do maintain vicious cats on premise who participate in bloodsport; roaming the structure in search of vermin.

Displays along the concourse illustrate the system of elevators, hatches, and access ports that were used by participants to enter the arena floor. Excavations around the Colosseum have revealed a tunnel leading from an area outside the arena that was used by the gladiators to prepare before their battles. It can be challenging to imagine what life was like in early Rome, especially as we walk around taking photos of ancient ruins with modern smartphones, carrying bottles of fresh water that are conveniently filled from public fountains from the 1870's.

Roman Forum

We exited the Colosseum and walked across a small plaza to the entrance of the Roman Forum. The
Forum is a collection of ruins surrounding the ancient city center (Forum) where speeches, trials, exhibitions, and gladiator matches were held. It was surrounded by monuments and statues. The area fell into disrepair after about the eighth century, and many structures were scavenged for materials to build new structures. In the 1300's the area was used as a dumping ground, and in the 1500's materials were appropriated for the construction of St Peter's Basilica. Fabio worked on the excavation of the Forum as a university student and was able to point to several items that he excavated. After being measured, photographed, and cataloged, most of the artifacts were re-buried, as it is the most economical method of preservation. The elevation changes are largely due to citizens simply covering up debris over generations, adding layer upon layer. Examples of this can be seen in almost every ancient city. Grasping the transformation of the area and the centuries-long period that it took place is daunting for those of us who live in a country where very little is more than 200 years old.

We bid good evening to Fabio and made plans for meeting him the next day for our Vatican tour. A quick Uber back to the hotel gave us plenty of time to unburden ourselves of our sightseeing regalia and freshen up for dinner, which comes with a story going back several months.

One of the best parts of my job as a paramedic is meeting people. Most of our patients are not dealing with immediate life threats, so we often have an opportunity for conversation. In the spring of 2024 I responded to a patient with a chronic condition who needed to go to the hospital. I noticed that most of the wines in their rack were Italian, and asked his wife if those were their favorite wines. I also mentioned that I was traveling to Rome in the fall. A smile appeared on her face, she grabbed my arm, and said "You HAVE to go to Roscioli for dinner, it's our absolute favorite!" So, on the way to the hospital, I asked her husband for more information. His eyes lit up, a smile consumed his previously drawn face, and he said "Ah, Roscioli, you'll love it." He shared his favorite menu items, and emphasized that I should have the Cacio e Pepe. I made notes and thanked him for his advice. He spoke about Rome the entire time he was in my care.

Several weeks later we were back. It was my partner's turn (we flip-flop from one call to the next) but I took this call since I was familiar with the situation. His wife asked me how our plans were progressing, and the patient began glowing when I told him Roscioli was on my list and we were looking forward to visiting.

Hamburger di Mozzarella di Bufala

Fast forward to the end of October. I tried for several days to get reservations at "The" Roscioli, but wasn't having any luck. Their other locations had limited availability, and Tuesday night I was in the middle of claiming a table for Wednesday evening when I fell asleep with my phone in my hand. I woke up an hour later to complete disappointment. There were no reservations available at any of their locations for the rest of the week. While we were waiting for Fabio at the Colosseum I checked for reservations, just in case, and there was a table for two at "The" Roscioli, for 19:00 – SCORE!

We arrived about 15 minutes before our reservation and joined the line. Everyone was happy to be there and the crowd was about half American from what I could determine. The doors opened promptly at 19:00 and a young lady with a clipboard checked off names and directed a server where to seat them. Our table was in the basement/wine cellar, and we were surrounded by friendly tables, two of which were occupied by people from North Carolina – go figure.

Our appetizer was off-the-charts scrumptious. Every element was perfect. The sauce, the ham, the tomatoes (and I'm not a huge fan of tomatoes that aren't in a sauce) and the cheese came together to build a perfect bite. If the portion were less generous it may have well triggered a domestic disturbance.

I selected a nice bottle of Chianti to accompany our meal. My wife selected the La Matriciana O Amatreciana to compare to the dish she had the night before. They were both pasta, with red sauce and pork. That's about as far as the comparison goes. If Roscioli's Amatreciana was Wagyu beef then the night before it was a ribeye from The Sizzler. It was absolutely spectacular.

I had the Cacio e Pepe. I've never had the dish before, but I felt compelled to order it due to the strong endorsement it was given by my patient. 

He was not wrong. It's a simple and subtle dish that is deceptively elegant. As I savored each bite I thought of the kind-eyed gentleman who set me on this path, and I toasted to his good taste.

When you're in a good restaurant in Italy then tiramisu is the obvious dessert choice, and Roscioli probably makes the best tiramisu I've ever tasted. Again, the portion size averted a domestic dispute.

Campo dé Fiori

After dinner we thought it would be nice to walk off a few calories. The restaurant isn't in an area that lends itself to being picked up by a ride service, so we took a casual stroll over to Campo dé Fiori, which was active but not crowded. I requested an Uber from there and we returned to the hotel.

That evening I looked up my restaurant advisor and discovered that he passed away over the summer. I was saddened to read the news, but I was thankful that I was able to enjoy his favorite dish at his favorite restaurant in his honor. I don't know that I'll ever eat Cacio e Pepe again without thinking of him and our conversations of Rome.

Castel Sant'Angelo