02 August 2016

Gran Canaria, Maderia, and Tenerife

We arrived in Las Palmas Gran Canaria to blue skies and moderate temperatures with absolutely no idea what we were in for. We knew there were large pedestrian thoroughfares and a cathedral (always a favorite from an architectural standpoint) along with abundant sidewalk cafés. We started around the southern end of Calle Triana and walked north, taking in the atmosphere and enjoying the street musicians and architecture. If you like doors and windows there is plenty to take in, especially with all the shadows and lines created on a clear day. After exploring everything to the north we backtracked and headed a few blocks south, to the Catedral de Santa Ana. On the way we discovered Las Palmitas, a nice shop for local crafts on Calle de la Herrería. After a shopping interlude we continued to the Catedral, where we took the elevator to the rooftop to take advantage of the excellent weather
and enjoy panoramic views of Las Palmas. The elevator ride to the observation deck is priced at €1.50 per person and the views are excellent. You can climb stairs from the observation deck to the tower, giving an even better view. Due to the holidays the museum and cathedral itself were closed, so I'm unable to comment on them but have read reviews on TripAdvisor that indicate they are deserving of a visit. By this time we were getting a bit hungry and started searching for a sidewalk cafe for a bite to eat. As we strolled back towards Calle Triana we discovered La Recova Vieja, a quintessential Las Palmas eatery with umbrella-covered tables arranged in an open cobblestone courtyard. The wait staff spoke little English but this was a minor impediment thanks to the bi-lingual menu and wine list. In short order we were snacking on an assortment of charcuterie and cheese along with tomatoes and diced onions dressed in balsamic and olive oil with some of the most incredible crusty bread I've ever savored, all washed down with a delightfully quaffable Malvasia from the oldest winery in Gran Canaria. We were served a chilled honey-rum aperitif that I've never seen before which could be quite dangerous in quantity. I could have spent hours sitting, sipping, and snacking, but alas, we felt it was prudent to head back to the ship and avoid the last minute rush to board. A last-minute stop at a liquor store on the pier for a bottle of the aforementioned honey-rum was deemed a necessity and we called it a successful and enjoyable day on the island.

We arrived in Santa Cruz, de Tenerife on Carnivale Sunday with the thought of enjoying a leisurely day strolling around the downtown area and doing a little shopping. With Carnivale in full swing we knew options would be limited, but after all the walking in Gran Canaria the day before a low-key visit to Tenerife was anything but a disappointment. If nothing else we would seize the opportunity to find a Pepsi (it not being available on the ship) and do some people-watching. The streets were bustling with locals preparing for the afternoon parade, but there wasn't anything hectic or harried about their actions. I found a quiet bench on a tree-lined street while everyone else milled in and out of the shops, looking for something distinctively Tenerifian to mark our visit. The people we encountered were most pleasant and helpful. Unfortunately the primary tourism in Tenerife is based on beach resorts and golf, which doesn't make it a likely destination for someone who lives in an area known for beach resorts and golf.

Our third and final stop in the Canary Islands was Funchal, Madeira. Much anticipated, we made reservations for a tour of the Blandy's Madeira Lodge weeks in advance. The day was a bit overcast and dreary, but that didn't dampen our spirits nor diminish the beauty of Funchal. The walk to Blandy's was through a well-tended square with fountains and manicured gardens. The sidewalks boast Portuguese mosaics that rival Lisbon and there are cobbled streets as well. Carnivale was still in full swing and school-aged children lined the sidewalks, many in costume, awaiting the afternoon festivities.

Tours at the Wine Lodge are offered in several languages and the guides are a wealth of information. If you're a casual Madeira drinker be prepared for quite an education on everything from the history of Blandy's to the various styles of madeira they produce. Part of the tour includes the library of ledgers, dating back to 1774 as well as examples of original tools and labels. At the end of the tour you have an opportunity to enjoy samples of a couple of different styles of madeira. If you're a serious madeira drinker you can peruse their cellar catalog and choose a vintage bottle for your collection that is over 100 years old.  Due to our short time in port and the continued Carnivale celebrations we made our way back to the ship after the tour and relaxed at the bar for a while.

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