09 August 2016

Bath

If you haven't been to Bath you are missing out on a fantastic town. We spent a few days here after our cruise to catch our breath, see some of our favorite places, and visit with friends. Centered around the stunning edifice of Bath Abbey and a bustling square there is something to interest almost everyone. Points of interest range from the Abbey, which was completed in about 1150, built on the site where King Edgar was crowned the first King of all England in 973 to the ancient baths, which date to ~800 B.C., to the Jane Austen Center and Pulteney Bridge. Shopping abounds, with everything offered from internationally known brands such as Apple and Banana Republic to street vendors offering artwork and crafts on a pedestrian mall. Restaurants are numerous and the city is small enough that most of it can be covered on foot with cabs readily available for when you've had enough walking.

On this visit we chose the Halcyon as our base of operations, a boutique-ish hotel centrally located just a couple of blocks from the Abbey, just west of the Bath Cricket Club Grounds across the River Avon. The staff at the Halcyon is warm and accommodating, offering assistance with bags (there is no lift) and ever-ready with advice and suggestions for things about town. Our rate included a rather extensive breakfast which made getting up and out each morning all the easier. The restaurant at the Halcyon offers dinner Tuesday-Saturday as well as lunch on Friday and Saturday. If you'd like to eat elsewhere Sally Lunn's is a block away (famous for the Sally Lunn Bun) and beyond that are any number of choices covering the range from fast food to fine dining.

Our first full day was spent strolling around the city center, doing a bit of shopping, visiting the Abbey, and dodging the drizzle, capped off with a piping hot dinner at Sally Lunn's. After being on the ship for over a week the relaxation provided by a complete lack of schedule was refreshing, even if it was cold and damp. The Abbey is a fascinating structure and filled with enough detail to merit repeat visits over the years. There are shops on the square around the Abbey, where you can find a wide assortment of items from the kitschy to the elegant. Coffee shops and grab-n-go sandwich spots are abundant if you're not interested in taking time for a more leisurely meal. We're big fans of Pret a Manger for quick eats and Costa Coffee for a warm-up or caffeine boost. Both provide reasonable values even in places that tend to be on the upper end of the expense scale.

Sunday we attended church services at the Abbey. Regardless of your religious affiliation (or lack of) I recommend attending a service any time it fits your schedule from a purely historical perspective. Seeing a grand building used in the manner and purpose of its design is an enlightening experience. Hearing the organ come to life, seeing the candles lit and lighting adjusted and witnessing the resonance of both sung and spoken voice as they have echoed in the same space for centuries has the effect of making subconscious connections to the past unlike anything else, and admission is free.

After the service we enjoyed a traditional English Sunday Roast at the Pump Room, just across the square and adjacent to the entry to the Roman Baths. The service was excellent and the food was quite good. It does see high demand, so consider calling ahead for a booking.

After lunch we walked around a bit and then hopped in a cab for a run through The Circus and a quick stop at the Royal Crescent. Designed by a father and son team of architects, these are some of the most sought after addresses in the UK and reportedly count the likes of Nicholas Cage, John Cleese, and Jimmy Choo among the list of current and past residents.

Monday was a low-key day spent in the company of friends and Tuesday we enjoyed a picturesque drive to Gatwick where we spent the night prior to an early flight home Wednesday morning.

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