Sunday at the Races!

2 April, 2017

One of our favorite activities on Sundays in London is to meet friends for a roast dinner at a gastro pub and spend the afternoon socializing over beers (or wine, or cider, depending upon your preference.) April 2nd happened to be the annual Boat Races between Oxford and Cambridge. Tracing their origins back to 1829 (men's) and 1927 (women's) the races were held irregularly until becoming an annual even in the 1960's.

Given that collegiate sports in the U.K. are sparse, this is a monumental event each year. Imagine UNC-Duke in basketball, Auburn-Alabama or Michigan State-Ohio State in football and you've got a good start on the magnitude of this rivalry. Barges and yachts are moored along the route and every square inch of every patio facing the river is packed with humanity. Pubs become full-blown sports bars with televisions in every corner for those who can't see the river. The usual, somewhat sedate, borderline formal, civilized Sunday afternoon atmosphere is exchanged for cheering crowds drinking beer from plastic cups (a rarity) and eating upscale cookout food from pop-up restauranteurs set up all around the patios.

While the crowd was large it wasn't overly loud, save for the band set up inside the pub. Lines for beverages were quite long, which helped to moderate consumption. Drinking from plastic did make the beer warm more rapidly than usual, which was a little irritating. With all the plastic cups and disposable food containers the staff did a commendable job of patrolling the area and keeping garbage picked up. It was quite entertaining when, during one trip to the bar, the band started playing "Sweet Home Alabama" and a large group of Brits started singing at the top of their voices.

The most surreal moment of the day was when we asked someone to take a group photo for us. Not only was he American, he was from a town just a few hours up the road from us! The "small world" paradigm always seems to come around when you least expect it.

It is understandable that the beer selection was limited to keep things streamlined, I will say that it was a bit disappointing. I am (admittedly) a bit of a beer snob, and the ones on offer, while certainly what I would consider "useful" beers, were not as enjoyable as would normally have been offered. They also had Pimm's by the pitcher (If you haven't had a proper Pimm's cup I highly recommend a trip to your local liquor store - it is light and refreshing and doesn't pack a kick - recipes are plentiful and readily available.)

The weather was tremendous, the company was spectacular, the food and beverage more than adequate (but a bit on the pricey side of the equation.) It was certainly much different than any other Sunday afternoon we've spent in London and I recommend participating in a similar event if the opportunity presents itself, if for nothing than the opportunity to compare it to other events you may have attended.

Saturday in London

1 April, 2017

As we got our feet under us a bit after a couple of days it was time for some shopping. I find that planning some choice activities for the second full day helps to motivate everyone and facilitate adjusting to the time difference. My wife is currently waiting for a kidney transplant and will have a significant amount of down time in the next year or so. In anticipation of this she has begun to learn how to knit, and as part of that process she discovered a store in London that is known for having amazing yarns. Thanks to the magic of Google Maps and a London Tube app, plotting our course to Loop couldn't have been any more convenient without a personal guide and professional driver to drop us at the door.

It's a small-ish shop, a short walk from Angel station on the underground, with a convivial staff willing to answer questions and decipher yarn requirements for patterns (which is no small feat when translating from 'American' to 'European' and English to Metric before making adjustments for yarn size.)

It is tucked around a corner in a small alley that is populated by various street vendors depending upon the day of the week. While there are several other neighboring shops they may not be of general interest (a perfumery and a fish monger come to mind) so you may be at a loss to pass the time if you're the spouse of a knitter.

I suggest navigating to the shop, then tracing your steps back a block or so to The York and enjoying a pint or two (or however many it takes to wait out the shopping expedition - you're on holiday, no need to get in a twist over a few skeins of yarn as long as your better half allows you the same consideration with respect to a few pints of proper ale.) In addition to a nice selection of ales provided under Cask Marque registration their menu has some tasty items, including one of the best Scotch Eggs I've ever tasted. In my experience tables are easy to come by (if one isn't empty just wait a few minutes) and the staff is polite and efficient. Definitely a nice place to spend an hour (or more) and made even more so if you sit outside on a sunny day. Pro Tip: Have the rest of your party collect you at the pub when they've finished shopping, it's a no-brainer to offer them a libation which will give you time to have another pint before you go!

When our adventure was over we hopped back on the tube and headed to Mayfair to visit familiar haunts. It was just before Easter, so Fortnum & Mason was replete with eggs and bunnies of every description. Along with candy treats for the crew back home there are a couple of their teas that are a particular favorite (even though we have access to hundreds of teas of our own, there are some blends that we can't quite seem to replicate...) A brief stop at Kath Kidston to see if there were any compelling new lines and then down the arcade to Taylor of Old Bond St to replenish depleted personal grooming supplies.

While I can (and do) order their products from Amazon when needed, nothing compares to visiting the store to see the new products and smell the new scents. If your skin is on the sensitive side I cannot emphasize enough how strongly I suggest you seek out a quality line of shaving and skin care product. Over the years I've tried dozens of "sensitive skin" shave creams and gels from cans and countless aftershave creams, gels, and lotions. Nothing compares to shaving cream from a jar applied with a brush, followed by an alcohol-free aftershave lotion. For a true indulgence (call it a "male spa day") book an appointment with Jermyn Street Barbers (located on-site) for a Luxury Wet Shave. Let your beard grow for a couple of days prior for full effect. I've never had a better shave and it's as relaxing as a good massage. (Not a GREAT massage, but a good massage.)

We dropped off our purchases at the flat and headed to our favorite London Chinese restaurant, Phoenix Palace in Marylebone. (Near Baker Street Tube) We were first introduced to Phoenix Palace by friends in 2014. The clientele is varied (tourists to locals to Chinese expats) and the food is uniformly delicious and well-prepared. If I were to offer a criticism it would be the menu is inclusive to the point of being overwhelming. We're no strangers to Chinese food and still took several minutes to digest the menu. I consider the spices to be appropriate, without being overwhelming - unlike many restaurants who simply add heat for the sake of heat. The balanced and restrained use of spices is the difference between a chef and a cook, and their kitchen is filled with chefs. Call for a reservation, they do a brisk business!

Friday in London: Chores, Beer, Italian Food

31 March, 2017

Thanks to the generosity of local friends, we loaded up empty suitcases Friday morning for the forty-five minute drive to Middlesex University. As luck and London road construction would have it, our drive included a tour of the car park (parking garage in American English :-) ) at Westfield London Shopping Centre ("The Mall" for Americans, which is nothing at all like "The Mall" that extends from Buckingham Palace.) We also ended up taking a bit of a detour due to sketchy GPS directions but eventually made it to the destination and made our delivery.

After a circuitous return to central London we made our way to the Anglesea Arms, a pub well-known for exceptional food as well as having a beer garden. Situated on a quiet side street in South Kensington, they offer a selection of six ales augmented by nearly a dozen lagers, stouts, and ciders. We enjoyed a pint (or maybe two...) while having an impromptu meeting to discuss future business opportunities related to themed touring concepts. It appears that the intersection of our collective ideas is much greater than either party anticipated, so perhaps this will bear fruit in the coming months. If so, it should prove to be great fun!

While sitting in the pub for the remainder of the afternoon and evening would have been delightful, we were struggling with a bit of jet lag and our friends had a schedule to keep, so we returned to the flat for a short break before meeting our son for an early dinner at one of our favorite neighborhood restaurants.

I've written about DaMario before, and I'll probably write about it again in the future. It was known to be Princess Diana's favorite pizzeria, and by our estimation her opinion in this regard is nearly flawless. Anyone that can elevate a dish as simple as bruschetta to the level they have is worthy of high praise. This was our third visit and the only ding I can hit them with is that service slows down when the restaurant gets full. Unless you're an unreasonable troglodyte you realize that's not really a ding at all, nor will you hold it against them. Salads are fresh, dressings are bright and flavorful, pasta is perfectly al dente and sauces are flavorful and adequately portioned without being excessive. If you're in the area of South Kensington, specifically near the intersection of Gloucester Road and Queen's Gate Terrace, then pay them a visit. I suggest you either book a table or arrive early, as a long queue will form and they often have to turn people away later in the evening.

London Spring Break

29 March, 2017

Our departure from ILM on Wednesday was thoroughly uneventful. From check-in, through security, to the gate everything ran smoothly and we found ourselves with additional time before departure. It's always more relaxing to sit at the gate than cut things close, so I always opt for an early arrival  if at all possible. The journey continued on an even-keel through our connection in Atlanta and the only annoyance was the boarding process for the 767 that took us to London. We were traveling in Business Class on an award ticket, so we were able to board first to get settled in. Unfortunately the 767 boards through the front door, which meant the flow of traffic down the aisles remained steady until near the end of the boarding process. The cabin crew still managed to make sure they greeted everyone and collected initial orders for after takeoff.

While I'm not a particular fan of the staggered arrangement in Delta Business Class on the 767, the lie-flat seats are reasonably comfortable even if they lack space to place anything. Need your tray? Good luck finding somewhere to put your book while you open it up. That pillow and blanket? Pretty much a complete annoyance until you're ready to actually use them. Take off your shoes to catch a nap? They're probably going to take a beating when you convert your seat from bed mode. (As an aside, I haven't experienced anything that matches the configuration on the AA Airbus 330 for both space and comfort.) By any stretch of the imagination it was more comfortable than coach, and I'm glad we were able to book these seats as they allow my wife to travel in relative comfort despite her health issues.

The food was quite good and (again) the service was top-notch. We were on flight 32, which departs ATL at 9:40 in the evening, arriving at LHR 11:00 the next morning. I highly suggest a similar flight schedule if at all possible. By the time you eat dinner and settle in it's approaching midnight (EST) so you're ready for sleep. (I managed to sleep a full 3.5 hours, which is a personal record.) When you wake for breakfast it's approximately 4:30-5:00 EST, which is early, but not outrageously so, helping you avoid most of the "sleep hangover" that a 7pm arrival/8am arrival is likely to produce.

Another benefit of arriving at Heathrow via Business Class is access to the immigration "fast pass" lane, which is considerably shorter than the regular line. A brief stop to have our passports examined and we were off to collect our bags and meet our driver. Since part of this trip was devoted to collecting extraneous clothing and accessories from our son's year studying abroad we were carrying additional suitcases (another inducement for Business Class, when you consider the cost of either shipping or paying excess bag fees the value proposition escalates rapidly.) As usual we made arrangements with Eddie Manning and our driver met us just outside customs.

Reminder: When arriving at most Heathrow terminals there are two useful stops between customs and the curb. There is always an ATM (Cash Machine) and they are almost always free to use (your institution may charge a fee) so you can withdraw Pounds to have in your wallet. There is also a purveyor of food items, generally an M&S Simply Food, so you can grab a sandwich, beverage, or snack if you're feeling a bit peckish. 

If there are more than two in your group, or you have excess baggage, I can't emphasize the value of using a car service over public transportation. While the Underground is the least expensive option at £6 to central London, it takes about an hour and you still have to get to your final destination from the nearest Tube stop. Heathrow Express is the quickest option to get you to London at 15 minutes (scheduled) and is reasonably priced at about £23 (off-peak) - but unless you're staying near Paddington Station there will be additional travel on the other end. When you have three people and book a driver you get door-to-door service for a rate comparable to Heathrow Express, but you travel in comfort that would cost significantly more than the off-peak budget rates provide.

We chose to stay at The Harrington in Kensington this visit. It is an apartment/hotel at the corner of Gloucester Rd and Harrington Gardens, just a block from the Gloucester Rd Tube station. Convenient doesn't begin to describe the location. There are multiple restaurants, two pubs, a dry cleaners and a grocery store all within less than five minutes walk from the front door. The staff at the property is exceptional and the property itself is in good order and undergoing upgrades. We chose an efficiency unit and had adequate space and all the conveniences we expected. Being able to have a quick breakfast of tea and toast (or even fry up some bacon if you choose) is an excellent way to maintain a budget, as £7 per person for breakfast at a restaurant each day can quickly add up. It also makes it much easier to have a few things on-hand for snacking or sandwiches to help drive back the irregular hunger pangs that a 5-6 hour time change can generate.

After showers and a brief nap we made the requisite trek to Waitrose for essential items (bread, jam, butter, cheese, bacon, and tea) and then ventured across the street to The Hereford Arms for dinner. Over the past 30 years their menu has improved by leaps and bounds. A menu of pedestrian pub-grub has been replaced by the likes of pork medallions, lamb chops, and pan-fried duck breast along with starters of caramelized leek and cheese tart and a smoked salmon with shrimp cocktail. Many pubs have reached a point of culinary execution that demands you book a table in advance unless you're willing to either try your luck or wait for an opening. Suffice it to say that with the exception of desiring a delivery vehicle for our salmon and shrimp cocktail (perhaps some pita points or crostini) the entire meal could have easily been served on white tablecloths with fine china and sterling silver. The London GastroPub scene has come in to its own the last several years, putting to rest the traditional wisdom concerning a lack of quality in British cuisine. Dinner in a pub wouldn't be complete without a pint (or three) and I started the trip off with London Pride ESB and a couple of Guinness.

All-in-all one of the best starts to a vacation we've ever experienced.