Sweet 16 Weekend in Manhattan

When you're in boarding school 600 miles from home and your birthday falls during the week the options for a 16th birthday party are a little different. Our daughter opted for a weekend in Manhattan with dinner, a little shopping, and a play.

We took Amtrak up from Philadelphia and landed at Penn Station in the middle of the afternoon rush, which means LONG taxi lines. Fortunately it's not difficult to locate limo drivers who are looking to pick up a fare, which is actually more economical for a group larger than 3 with luggage, and we were quickly on our way to the Ameritania Hotel, located adjacent to the Late Night studios.

I first stayed at the Ameritania in 2000 when I was in town for a trade show. While the rest of the company stayed at the Roosevelt, my budget-conscious group chose more modest accommodations for less than half the cost. Back then the rooms were adequate and the staff was top-notch, but it was on par with the price point. When I started researching for this trip I decided to see what the old haunts looked like and discovered that the Ameritania had undergone a complete remodel in the interim and the photos of the property showed drastic improvements while the rates were still quite reasonable by New York standards, even if they were markedly higher than before.

To cut to the chase, the entire property is now modern, yet comfortable, and they've added a full bar so there's a place to relax and socialize without having to venture out. Rooms feature flat-panel televisions, comfortable beds with nice linens, showers with ample water pressure, and soft, fluffy towels. The fact that it's just a block down and a block over from the Carnegie Deli is just icing on the cake.

We kicked off the celebration with dinner at Le Cirque. Long ranked as one of the top restaurants worldwide, Le Cirque has launched the careers of many industry leaders such as Daniel Boulud, Rick Moonen, and Alex Stratta. Given the auspicious occasion we opted for the tasting menu and were absolutely blown away (as was expected.) Truffles, foams, gastriques, and mousses complimented brilliantly prepared lamb, scallops, lobster, fish, and beef. Everything was topped off with a range of desserts that were nothing less than pieces of edible art, as delightful for the eye as they were for the palette. The weather was relatively mild for mid-January, so we walked a few blocks after dinner to enjoy the sights and sounds of the city and avoid a food coma.

There's nothing like New York City at night, especially a crisp, clear, winter evening. As the marquees and billboards light up the workaday city disappears and the world showplace comes to life. Lines form at theaters, throngs collect outside bars and restaurants, street performers consolidate and Times Square becomes an amusement park with pliable moral guidelines.

Saturday was spent shopping. From Union Square to Columbus Circle there were no stones unturned. The males among us spent much of the time scouting coffee shops and planning the next stop on the tour while the females contemplated everything from heels to hats. After the shopping marathon we did manage a bit of a breather to rest and recharge prior to our evening festivities.

While Peter Luger was my preference our schedule didn't allow the flexibility that a trip to Brooklyn would have required. Based on a pleasant experience in years past, as well as being conveniently located midway between our hotel and the theater, we opted for dinner at Gallagher's Steakhouse. Opened in 1927, this NY institution still serves up an excellent dry-aged steak with capable staff, even if the decor has passed the point of "retro" and is approaching the "slightly tattered" mark. If you want frills you may want to consider dining elsewhere. If you want your money to show up on your plate and don't put stock in glitz and glamor then this is probably the place for you. We informed our waiter that we had tickets for a show a couple of blocks away and he made sure that our meal was well-paced to meet our deadline without making us feel rushed. We enjoyed a complete meal, from appetizers to dessert, and made it to the theater with time to spare while taking a reasonably casual stroll to cover the final two blocks.

The presentation of Chicago was adequate, but less than stunning. By all appearances a fair number of understudies were in the lineup and the lack of chemistry in the cast showed through by way of a few rough spots here and there. We've seen much better productions and would encourage you to investigate  closely before deciding on any show in order to avoid the same disappointment that we experienced. After the show the walk back to the hotel was invigorating and just long enough to work out the kinks before turning in and winding down our weekend. Sunday morning saw us back on the train for Philadelphia to return to the real world.

Disney Wedding!

We've been to Disney plenty of times over the years, but never for a wedding. When our oldest son and his fiancé opted to tie the knot at the Happiest Place on Earth we thought it was a pretty good idea. It certainly simplified many things! They planned to have the ceremony at the Grand Floridian with the Magic Kingdom in the background, so most of the guests chose to stay at the resort, adding to the festivity of the occasion.

As things go, the event was not without a few challenges! The day of our arrival (Tuesday) we had reservations for dinner in the Queen Victoria room at Victoria & Alberts. We thought this would be a great way to start things off and a particular treat for our culinary-graduate son. If you consider yourself a foodie and want to experience the meal of a lifetime then take the plunge and make reservations. Not only is the food some of the most amazing you will ever experience, the service is off the charts as well. If you appreciate wine then go whole-hog and add on the wine pairing option. For most people this is a one-time experience and, in my opinion, it's worth it. We dined with them for our tenth anniversary, many years ago, so we were very much looking forward to a return visit. The challenge, you ask? Well, Victoria & Alberts is a coat & tie venue and our luggage didn't arrive with us.

DOH!

Unsure of when it might join us, I called the restaurant manager and explained the situation. She was outrageously helpful and insisted that we not give it a moment's additional thought. If the luggage arrived, wonderful. If it didn't arrive then she would see us at the appointed time and that was that. She wasn't about to let an airline snafu ruin our plans or cast a shadow on the beginning of what should be a joyous celebration. As luck would have it, our luggage arrived about 30 minutes before our reservation. Just enough time to clean up and change! The food and wine were everything we remembered and the service was even better than before. Inventive dishes consisting of unusual and rare ingredients (not the same as bizarre and strange ingredients, mind you) are presented with a flair and a complete description of where the components originated and how they were selected and prepared. The wines, some of which are always on my list of "not favorites" are impeccably paired, to the point that even the wines that I don't usually enjoy are quite delectable.

Wednesday was enjoyable and low-stress. While some family trickled in during the day, we spent our time at EPCOT, indulging in the variety and deliciousness of the Food & Wine Festival. Small bites and libations from around the globe (not just the World Showcase countries) are offered from kiosks spaced every 50 feet or so around the World Showcase Lagoon. This is the second time we've visited during Food & Wine and we still haven't managed to sample everything, but with rare exception everything we've sampled has been wonderful. Each afternoon and evening there are concerts on the stage of the America Gardens Theater, so you can relax, digest, and enjoy a beverage before continuing your culinary assault.

Thursday morning was rehearsal time and the weather was absolutely gorgeous! We congregated on the patio and did a walk-through of the ceremony with the requisite harassment of the betrothed. The rest of the family arrived throughout the day while we enjoyed the parks prior to hosting a cocktail hour in the evening for the wedding party. Once again, the staff of the Grand Floridian exceeded our expectations and helped to pull off an enjoyable event with minimal effort required on our part.

By Friday morning everyone had arrived and we had a full-scale wedding party in full swing. Most of us ventured back to EPCOT (there was food and wine, after all!) and a majority of the group enjoyed dinner in the German pavilion, complete with LARGE servings of beer. Not wanting to over-do things prior to the Saturday morning wedding we erred on the side of caution and headed back to the resort at a reasonable hour.

Saturday dawned less than ideal for an outdoor ceremony. By less than ideal I mean wet, and by wet I mean a tropical storm was brewing. The wind was whipping and rain was coming down by the bucket full. The ever-attentive, courteous, and efficient Disney Cast Members were at the ready with enclosed golf carts to shuttle the wedding party to the substitute venue at the conference center. While not as picturesque as a dockside venue with Cinderella's castle in the distance, the substitute venue provided plenty of room for all the guests in a comfortable (and dry!) environment. The storm escalated to the point that they honeymooners spent the first night of their Disney cruise securely tied to the pier at Port Canaveral, waiting for the weather to pass. Rain on your wedding day is supposed to be a good omen. I haven't heard any prophecies with respect to torrential tropical systems and must admit that this was a first in our family. The plan was for the wedding attendees to join the newlyweds in the Magic Kingdom for an afternoon of fun and frivolity. We made a strong effort, but the rain was simply too much for many. Even with the ubiquitous Mickey ponchos we were soaked to the bone in a matter of minutes and keeping track of a large group in a mass of people who are all wearing the same rain gear is the epitome of frustration. Those who stuck it out had great fun while the others retired for hot showers, dry clothes, and a fortifying adult beverage.

As Murphy's Law would dictate, Sunday dawned dry and mostly sunny. EPCOT was back on the agenda (still trying to visit all the kiosks!) and the crowds were moderate. After the energy and latent stress of the wedding it was a nice change of pace to stroll around World Showcase with just a few family members. Monday was get-away day for the rest of the family and after seeing everyone off to the airport we spent a few more hours at EPCOT, wrapping up a few loose ends and sampling the remaining items on our list.

If you, or a member of your family, are looking for a destination wedding and have an affinity for Disney then give it a look. You'll certainly not have any worries about keeping guests entertained and they do an excellent job of taking care of the details. It comes with a Disney price tag, of course, but for a small event the convenience is (nearly) priceless.

Bath

If you haven't been to Bath you are missing out on a fantastic town. We spent a few days here after our cruise to catch our breath, see some of our favorite places, and visit with friends. Centered around the stunning edifice of Bath Abbey and a bustling square there is something to interest almost everyone. Points of interest range from the Abbey, which was completed in about 1150, built on the site where King Edgar was crowned the first King of all England in 973 to the ancient baths, which date to ~800 B.C., to the Jane Austen Center and Pulteney Bridge. Shopping abounds, with everything offered from internationally known brands such as Apple and Banana Republic to street vendors offering artwork and crafts on a pedestrian mall. Restaurants are numerous and the city is small enough that most of it can be covered on foot with cabs readily available for when you've had enough walking.

On this visit we chose the Halcyon as our base of operations, a boutique-ish hotel centrally located just a couple of blocks from the Abbey, just west of the Bath Cricket Club Grounds across the River Avon. The staff at the Halcyon is warm and accommodating, offering assistance with bags (there is no lift) and ever-ready with advice and suggestions for things about town. Our rate included a rather extensive breakfast which made getting up and out each morning all the easier. The restaurant at the Halcyon offers dinner Tuesday-Saturday as well as lunch on Friday and Saturday. If you'd like to eat elsewhere Sally Lunn's is a block away (famous for the Sally Lunn Bun) and beyond that are any number of choices covering the range from fast food to fine dining.

Our first full day was spent strolling around the city center, doing a bit of shopping, visiting the Abbey, and dodging the drizzle, capped off with a piping hot dinner at Sally Lunn's. After being on the ship for over a week the relaxation provided by a complete lack of schedule was refreshing, even if it was cold and damp. The Abbey is a fascinating structure and filled with enough detail to merit repeat visits over the years. There are shops on the square around the Abbey, where you can find a wide assortment of items from the kitschy to the elegant. Coffee shops and grab-n-go sandwich spots are abundant if you're not interested in taking time for a more leisurely meal. We're big fans of Pret a Manger for quick eats and Costa Coffee for a warm-up or caffeine boost. Both provide reasonable values even in places that tend to be on the upper end of the expense scale.

Sunday we attended church services at the Abbey. Regardless of your religious affiliation (or lack of) I recommend attending a service any time it fits your schedule from a purely historical perspective. Seeing a grand building used in the manner and purpose of its design is an enlightening experience. Hearing the organ come to life, seeing the candles lit and lighting adjusted and witnessing the resonance of both sung and spoken voice as they have echoed in the same space for centuries has the effect of making subconscious connections to the past unlike anything else, and admission is free.

After the service we enjoyed a traditional English Sunday Roast at the Pump Room, just across the square and adjacent to the entry to the Roman Baths. The service was excellent and the food was quite good. It does see high demand, so consider calling ahead for a booking.

After lunch we walked around a bit and then hopped in a cab for a run through The Circus and a quick stop at the Royal Crescent. Designed by a father and son team of architects, these are some of the most sought after addresses in the UK and reportedly count the likes of Nicholas Cage, John Cleese, and Jimmy Choo among the list of current and past residents.

Monday was a low-key day spent in the company of friends and Tuesday we enjoyed a picturesque drive to Gatwick where we spent the night prior to an early flight home Wednesday morning.

Santiago de Compostela

The highlight of our final stop on this cruise was the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela. On our bus ride from the port we passed numerous pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, or Way of St James, which terminates at the Cathedral. Pilgrims have reportedly made the trek to the from all over Europe since the ninth century to pay homage to Saint James the Great, one of the apostles of Jesus Christ.

The first church was built on the site in 829 AD with construction of the Cathedral beginning in 1060 and nominal completion in 1211. Various additions and enhancements continued until the 19th century and, as would be expected, maintenance and repairs continue today.

The main façade of the cathedral dominates a square bordered by the city hall opposite the Cathedral, the University on the south side and a five-star hotel converted from a 15th century hospital on the north side. Other entrances to the church include the Door of Forgiveness on the west side, which is only opened on jubilee years, when the Feast of St James (July 25) lands on a Sunday. The door is opened on December 31 and remains open for the entire Jubilee year with long lines of faithful waiting to cross the threshold. The north entrance, rebuilt in the Baroque style after the Romanesque façade was destroyed, is used on a daily basis while the south entrance is the only remaining Romanesque façade.

You could easily spend an entire day taking in all the detail of the interior of the cathedral and examining the prolific symbolism. As you would expect, most of it centers around Saint James and the various legends surrounding him. I found the dichotomy between the ornate altar pieces and austere columns to be quite striking. One moment you're mesmerized by the intricate details of an item and the next you're taken aback by the elegant simplicity of another. 

As imposing and overwhelming as the Cathedral is, the town immediately surrounding it is quaint, warm, and welcoming. There are shops of every description, providing opportunities to purchase everything from the most trivial knick-knack to fine jewelry. One of the most popular souvenirs are scallop shells painted with the Cross of St James. Pilgrims on the Camino will display them in some manner, often hanging on the flap of their backpack. 

Cafés and restaurants abound, if you're looking for anything from a light snack to a complete meal the options are plentiful. Not everyone speaks English, but most people speak it well enough that you ought to be able to navigate menus and order with minimal difficulty. If you have specific concerns, such as food allergies, you may want to avoid any potential miscommunication. Otherwise we prefer to do the best we can and chalk up anything "mis-ordered" as a learning experience and give it a try. We rarely hit a complete dud and have discovered dishes that we would have never considered sampling otherwise. If you're traveling to an area and don't speak the language it's probably a fair assumption that you're at least a little adventurous, so go for it!

Gran Canaria, Maderia, and Tenerife

We arrived in Las Palmas Gran Canaria to blue skies and moderate temperatures with absolutely no idea what we were in for. We knew there were large pedestrian thoroughfares and a cathedral (always a favorite from an architectural standpoint) along with abundant sidewalk cafés. We started around the southern end of Calle Triana and walked north, taking in the atmosphere and enjoying the street musicians and architecture. If you like doors and windows there is plenty to take in, especially with all the shadows and lines created on a clear day. After exploring everything to the north we backtracked and headed a few blocks south, to the Catedral de Santa Ana. On the way we discovered Las Palmitas, a nice shop for local crafts on Calle de la Herrería. After a shopping interlude we continued to the Catedral, where we took the elevator to the rooftop to take advantage of the excellent weather

and enjoy panoramic views of Las Palmas. The elevator ride to the observation deck is priced at €1.50 per person and the views are excellent. You can climb stairs from the observation deck to the tower, giving an even better view. Due to the holidays the museum and cathedral itself were closed, so I'm unable to comment on them but have read reviews on TripAdvisor that indicate they are deserving of a visit. By this time we were getting a bit hungry and started searching for a sidewalk cafe for a bite to eat. As we strolled back towards Calle Triana we discovered La Recova Vieja, a quintessential Las Palmas eatery with umbrella-covered tables arranged in an open cobblestone courtyard. The wait staff spoke little English but this was a minor impediment thanks to the bi-lingual menu and wine list. In short order we were snacking on an assortment of charcuterie and cheese along with tomatoes and diced onions dressed in balsamic and olive oil with some of the most incredible crusty bread I've ever savored, all washed down with a delightfully quaffable Malvasia from the oldest winery in Gran Canaria. We were served a chilled honey-rum aperitif that I've never seen before which could be quite dangerous in quantity. I could have spent hours sitting, sipping, and snacking, but alas, we felt it was prudent to head back to the ship and avoid the last minute rush to board. A last-minute stop at a liquor store on the pier for a bottle of the aforementioned honey-rum was deemed a necessity and we called it a successful and enjoyable day on the island.

We arrived in Santa Cruz, de Tenerife on Carnivale Sunday with the thought of enjoying a leisurely day strolling around the downtown area and doing a little shopping. With Carnivale in full swing we knew options would be limited, but after all the walking in Gran Canaria the day before a low-key visit to Tenerife was anything but a disappointment. If nothing else we would seize the opportunity to find a Pepsi (it not being available on the ship) and do some people-watching. The streets were bustling with locals preparing for the afternoon parade, but there wasn't anything hectic or harried about their actions. I found a quiet bench on a tree-lined street while everyone else milled in and out of the shops, looking for something distinctively Tenerifian to mark our visit. The people we encountered were most pleasant and helpful. Unfortunately the primary tourism in Tenerife is based on beach resorts and golf, which doesn't make it a likely destination for someone who lives in an area known for beach resorts and golf.

Our third and final stop in the Canary Islands was Funchal, Madeira. Much anticipated, we made reservations for a tour of the Blandy's Madeira Lodge weeks in advance. The day was a bit overcast and dreary, but that didn't dampen our spirits nor diminish the beauty of Funchal. The walk to Blandy's was through a well-tended square with fountains and manicured gardens. The sidewalks boast Portuguese mosaics that rival Lisbon and there are cobbled streets as well. Carnivale was still in full swing and school-aged children lined the sidewalks, many in costume, awaiting the afternoon festivities.

Tours at the Wine Lodge are offered in several languages and the guides are a wealth of information. If you're a casual Madeira drinker be prepared for quite an education on everything from the history of Blandy's to the various styles of madeira they produce. Part of the tour includes the library of ledgers, dating back to 1774 as well as examples of original tools and labels. At the end of the tour you have an opportunity to enjoy samples of a couple of different styles of madeira. If you're a serious madeira drinker you can peruse their cellar catalog and choose a vintage bottle for your collection that is over 100 years old.  Due to our short time in port and the continued Carnivale celebrations we made our way back to the ship after the tour and relaxed at the bar for a while.