Days 10 & 11 - At Sea

12 November, 2024

In stark contrast to what was to come in less than 48 hours, Tuesday dawned clear, calm, and bright. 

You know the score on breakfast by this stage of the game. It had become as much entertainment as obsession, and the headwaiter now waited expectantly for my report on the egg poaching.

We had moved farther into the north Atlantic and the cooler temperatures drove even more people indoors, so Two70 was the most crowded we had seen it yet.

We participated tangentially with trivia, listened to the next installment of the Antarctic adventure, read, had a drink, nibbled on sandwiches, watched a movie, and listened to music.

We strolled around a little, spoke to the representative at NextCruise and checked out the rates and schedule for future "unusual" cruises (we've exhausted the rote Eastern/Western Caribbean itineraries over the years.) The trans-Atlantic experience is proving to be an amazing combination of activity and free time, so options along those lines are particularly appealing. Perhaps we reverse the trip and go back to Europe one spring?

13 November, 2024

Wednesday's weather was overcast, but generally good. Rumors were starting to circulate that the fontal system coming off the east coast of the United States was going to give us a bit of weather over the next couple of days.

After breakfast we were treated to some elevator music of the good variety. It takes up a bit of room, but it's much more entertaining than the piped-in, jazz-like, easy listening, instrumental-ized hits you hear when you're in the dentist chair. You get an actual musician, with a piano, in an elevator. I'm not sure if he plays Aerosmith or not...

The usual routine was punctuated by a cake decorating duel between our Captain, Per Kristopherson, and our Cruise Director, Steve "from Canada" Knisley.

Captain Per could easily work on the entertainment staff of most cruise ships. He's witty and affable, and by all reports from the crew he is also an excellent Captain to work for. He's not just a "handshake captain" who performs the perfunctory social duties required by his office, he makes smalltalk with passengers in the manner of a modern Captain Merrill Stubing.

Steve from Canada is just as exceptional as Captain Per. In all our cruises we've maybe had one CD who could even compare to Steve (from Canada.) Most cruise directors are heavy on being the entertainer, Steve (from Canada) puts the emphasis on taking care of the passengers and making sure they're having a good time. As he walks around in his signature (my term) Chuck Taylors he doesn't hold court or seek attention. He engages with passengers where they are instead of inviting them into his alternate universe. Steve (from Canada) is one of the older CDs we've ever had, and I think his world experience and comfort in his own skin is largely responsible for his down-to-earth persona. Steve (from Canada) gave a presentation covering his career path as well as the origin of his name. I don't know if this was just a "trans-Atlantic" filler presentation, or just one of his "things."

Steve (from Canada) is a Cruise Director that would make me choose one ship over another. I don't know of any stronger endorsement I can offer.

As far as their combined capacity for cake decorating, suffice it to say that neither of them should be considering a career change. However, the house was packed and everyone seemed to have fun (other than the crew left to clean up the mess!)

We booked a return trans-Atlantic for 2026, NY to Barcelona.

Day 9 – To New York! (But first, a detour?)

11 November, 2024

Our first sea day dawned smooth and bright, with nothing on the agenda other than dinner reservations at Wonderland. Continuing my streak for the cruise I had Eggs Benedict yet again, and the kitchen continued to impress. 

We passed the day in our usual fashion, staking out a space in Two70, which was exceptionally popular thanks to the cool temperatures on deck. When Channdy was busy elsewhere a quick trip over to the bar is all it took for Richard to fill our orders. With the café nearby we had plenty of snacks and warm beverages when needed.

Midafternoon the Captain made an announcement that a passenger and a crew member were in need to medical attention and we would be making a slight diversion to the Azores to meet their needs. He assured us that the change in plans would not have an impact on our projected arrival time in Bayonne at the end of the week.

As others have expressed before us, we were a bit reserved about what we would experience at Wonderland. As the name implies, the restaurant is themed on the story of Alice in Wonderland. The hostess wears a dress and styles her hair like Alice and the decor is playful with several nods to the Queen of Hearts. 

The menu is a blank picture frame that reveals its contents with the stroke of a water-dipped paintbrush. The silverware, drink ware, and serving pieces lean towards asymmetry and irregular shapes. While the meal format is nominally a prix-fixe consisting of a selection from each course, the wait staff will discuss your preferences and aversions and bring you a wide selection of  appetizers, with a second round of your favorite selections. After you finish your selected entree they'll deliver the benchmark dessert as well as any other dessert(s) that you may have a taste for.

The concept behind the food presentation is that things are not as they seem. Guacamole served in a cone that appears to be pistachio ice cream. Deviled eggs in a "nest" of noodles, and a red fruit with a green skin that's actually a hollowed-out lime stuffed with seafood salad.

The entrees are equally obfuscated and even more playful, each assembled to tell a story of it's own. As far as the execution of the dishes, we were floored. Before we were even served dessert we were in agreement that Wonderland was definitely an experience we would repeat. Several families were in the restaurant with us with children from about age 8 to 16, and they all appeared to be enjoying themselves. The service was exceptional, as is generally the case in the Royal Caribbean specialty dining venues.

Just before 22:00 the ship came to a stop and we looked out on Ponta Delgada, Azores. After a brief period a tender appeared and came alongside the ship. The patients were transferred after what I would assume to be a standard transfer of care handoff, assessment by the receiving providers, and appropriate immigration processing. Obviously no patient details were communicated, but the following afternoon the Captain did inform us that he had been told both patients were doing well and expected to make full recoveries.

Day 8 - Madeira

10 November, 2024

We were looking forward to visiting Maderia again. We visited during Carnivale in 2012 and our experience was limited due to the holiday. What we did experience we found intriguing, and it left us wanting for more. This visit was spectacular, and now we're contemplating a return in the future, when we can stay for several days and experience all the island has to offer.

Blandy's

Our first stop was Blandy's, repeating our first stop on the last trip. In the dozen years since we were here they've done a tremendous amount of work to the last section of the tour, organizing the historical components in a clear, more formal presentation. The overall narrative of the tour was more streamlined and cogent as well. If you have any interest in Maderia (the fortified wine) or the progression of business development on the island, I think it's well worth the price of entry. The aromas that drift through the warehouse as you walk among the barrels are heavenly. The pace is leisurely and there are options that make the route manageable for those who can only handle a limited number of steps. A tasting is also included, which is a nice way to conclude your visit. The museum does close for lunch, so check opening times before you show up.

Library of Parliament

After our tour we went in search of the stop for the Hop-On-Hop-Off Bus. I purchased tickets online the day before, and learned on the morning of our arrival that a section of the route (where the stop was that we were trying to locate) had been temporarily modified due to road construction. Just as we were about to abandon hope and request a refund we stumbled across the stop and a bus arrived. After boarding, having our barcode scanned, and the driver printing out a CVS-worthy set of receipts, we were on our way.

When we disembarked the ship the skies were overcast and gloomy. By the time we boarded the bus they were mostly sunny, ideal conditions for sightseeing. Funchal offers a Red Route and a Blue Route, the Red Route is a bit shorter and provides more access options near the port in case you find yourself running short of time. 

Some of the audio ports on the bus may not work very well, so anticipate the possibility that you may need to move to another seat. The upper deck is superior for viewing, but can get a bit warm when the sun is intense. You'll travel throughout downtown Funchal, then up to one of the higher points in the city before looping along the coast where you'll see some impressive cliffs. There are ample opportunities to "Hop Off" and browse different areas, just check the timetable to plan your next "Hop On." We chose to stay on the bus the entire loop and enjoy the scenery.

If you're a football/soccer fan, keep your eye peeled as you approach the traffic circle where the road forks to go to the cruise pier and you'll see the home of international superstar and Funchal native Cristiano Ronaldo. Just down the street (towards downtown) you'll pass the CR7 monument and the CR7 museum. Our cab driver informed us that his mother lives in the house full-time and Ronaldo spends a significant portion of the off-season on the island.

By the end of our bus tour we were making notes of hotels, restaurants, and locations. I'm not sure when, or even if, we might come back for a longer stay, but the inspiration is certainly there to try and make it happen. We thoroughly enjoyed our last port of call and boarded the ship in eager anticipation of nearly a week at sea.

Day 7 – At Sea

 9 November, 2024

When planning the trip we looked for things to do to break up our sea days a bit. I picked a sushi making class and my wife chose cupcake decorating. I didn't fully contemplate what it would be like taking a sushi class at 10:00. My lack of foresight was further complicated by the fact that you're not allowed to take any of your sushi away from the class.

Sushi Prep

The class was well-attended, at least a dozen of us participated, and there were classes every sea day. A couple of days I walked past and there were about 20 people at the tables. Quite the popular activity, it seems.

The first order after you arrive and check in with the host is mandatory handwashing before you take a seat at a table. Each seat is prepped with all the supplies to make four different sushi items along with a pair of food service gloves and your very own Izumi Sushi Chef hat. Most of us didn't notice the hat until we were well into the class.

The chef leading the class was thorough  and entertaining. He didn't just give commands, he explained why it was important to do things a certain way and provided insight as to how the process evolved. He explained the components we were working with and how they were prepped for the class. All of this information was delivered with good humor and a few anecdotes. Questions were well received and there were other chefs roaming around providing assistance and direction for those who were stumbling.

(Most of the) Finished Product

The people in my immediate area were there to learn and enjoy. We exchanged pleasant banter and plenty of jokes, most of them heavy on puns and sarcasm. It was a regular buffet of Dad jokes.

We weren't allowed to use sharp knives, mostly due to the high risk of self-injury, so our rolls were placed on a marked plate and delivered to the sushi bar for cutting. The rolls were arranged, garnishes added, and our shrimp tempura rolls dressed with sauce before our plates were returned to us for consumption. My California Hand-Roll is missing from the finished product photo because it had already been eaten.

I've been eating sushi on a regular basis for almost 40 years, much of that at the bar watching the chef create deliciousness from his store of ingredients. This was my first time making sushi, but I had a pretty good idea of how to assemble the components and knew exactly what the finished product should look like.

Things I learned;

• Making nigiri requires a deft touch. Getting the proper level of force while being delicate is obviously something learned over months and years of repetition.
• Making hand rolls is deceptively difficult. The smooth, yet awkward, motion of the chef's hands and arms is a deliberate and practiced ballet.
• Regular rolls take less rice than you think, and getting the proper shape takes effort.

In other words, my appreciation for the skills demonstrated by a sushi chef increased significantly.

As we sat and consumed the fruits of our labors our "diplomas" were distributed and the chef warned us that we should be on standby in case any of the chefs weren't able to work their shift for the rest of the cruise. 😂

My wife reported less satisfying results from her cupcake decorating class. She said it was more of a fondant assembly exercise than actual decorating. She said next time she'd like to do the sushi class and would not bother with the decorating class in the future.

The rest of the day consisted of our usual sea-day agenda. A Dan Burton was presenting one of the enrichment lectures. He is the first person to ever ride a bicycle to the South Pole. His presentation spanned several days and included a rather complete history of the early expeditions to Antarctica, many of which were complete disasters. He wrote a book, if you're interested. (not a monetized link) Team trivia was beginning to heat up, and we developed a strategy for the next time we take a trans-ocean cruise. 

It was a wonderful day.

Day 6 – Malaga & Strait of Gibraltar

8 November, 2024

Not a day we specifically chose to stay on the ship, but a lack of compelling tours of an appropriate activity level led us to enjoy the ship. We started with a leisurely breakfast (I maintained my streak, and the poached egg master in the kitchen also maintained theirs.) Then it was back to the cabin to collect our things and find a spot to hang out for a while.

We started in the Solarium, which was comfortable for a while but became a bit stuffy as the clouds opened up. In general we're not overly fond of the forward Solarium placement on the Quantum class ships due to the humidity and chlorine intensity. On the Radiance class ships, with an aft placement, the open roof generates a healthy airflow and temperatures tend to be moderate even when the roof is open on cool days. The only time we've seen the solarium closed on Radiance class ships is during rainy weather.

After some time in the Solarium we packed up and retreated to Two70, which was much more comfortable. I did my best to deplete the coffee supply and tried desperately to avoid the cookies, but succumbed to temptation a couple of times (only one cookie at a time, even though I wanted many more.)

Gibraltar

We wandered up to the Windjammer for lunch which was lightly utilized on a port day. We hung out for a while, enjoying the different view and easy access to soda, as well as the easy access to additional snacks. Eventually we made our way back to Two70, continuing our reading/knitting/movie/music enjoyment. Never underestimate the value of a good set of earbuds or earphones when you're on vacation. They're nice to have for more than the journey to and from your destination.

We had dinner reservations at Giovanni's Kitchen, a more relaxed incarnation of the original RCCL Italian specialty dining venue, Giovanni's Table. The menu is simplified, with the addition of several pizza options and an expanded appetizer offering. Our server, Sanjay, helped us navigate the unfamiliar menu and supplied just enough energy to make the experience fun without ever giving the impression that he was trying too hard. Our dinner was excellent and the portions were ample to the point that we couldn't finish everything they served. The next time we're on Odyssey we'll probably visit more than once and, hopefully, we'll see Sanjay again.

Later in the evening we claimed a spot on Deck 14 to watch our passage through the Strait of Gibraltar. The weather was a bit foggy, so photos were challenging, but being able to clearly see Europe on one side of the ship and Africa on the other side was one of those unexpected "Wow" moments that hit you out of nowhere.

Africa

Day 5 – Cartagena

7 November, 2024

After the heat and walking in Mallorca we opted to stay on the ship for a day of relaxation. I slept solidly thanks to the exertion, so I was up early. I made my way to the dining room for (SURPRISE!) Eggs Benedict, which were perfectly poached – yet again. After finishing breakfast and fueling up on coffee I decided to check the conditions in the Solarium. The temperature was comfortable and the chlorine was manageable, so I claimed a seat at the bar and started the day with a Bloody Mary and opened up my iPad for some reading. 

A few (who's counting?) Bloody Mary's later I moved to the Windjammer and had a bit of lunch. My days of ravaging a buffet are long gone, I'm more of a judicious sampler these days, but despite the variety of food available, the hamburgers were calling my name for reasons unexplained. After lunch I popped back to the room to check on Lourie, who was still in recovery mode. Damn psoriatic arthritis to hell. I dropped off my iPad, swapped my Birkenstocks for sneakers, and decided to go explore the pier. There was a monument on Google Maps and I was intrigued.

Cartagena

Juan Sebastián Elcano Monument

The monument is a metal sculpture honoring Juan Sebastián Elcano, perhaps one of the least known explorers of all time. He was a member of the Magellan expedition that set out to circumnavigate the globe. After the death of Magellan and the deaths of several others who were elevated to leader of the expedition along the way, Elcano was the Captain at the completion of the journey. He was one of only18 members of the original 230+ participants who returned to Seville over three years after their departure.

Elcano's life wasn't well documented, so much of his involvement (or alleged involvement) is clouded in controversy. It is known that he died of scurvy in the Pacific while on an expedition to the Spice Islands at the behest of King Charles I of Spain.

The remainder of the afternoon was spent lounging in Two70, fruity drink at the ready. Movies, reading, music, and relaxation. No concerns about being back on board in time for departure – the only worry I had was what to order for my next drink. Mai Tai? Painkiller? Planter's Punch? But I didn't have to worry much, "our" cocktail waiter, Channdy, was always ready with a tasty suggestion.

Day 4 – Palma de Mallorca

6 November, 2024

Castell de Bellver

We were supposed to visit Valencia, but that was cancelled due to the recent flooding. Mallorca was substituted, so we chose a "low intensity" bus tour overview. Synopsis: the island is beautiful, but generally not compelling unless you are after shopping, shopping, and more shopping. Our guide was "useful" (that term can apply to people, too) but not inspiring.

Our first stop was Castell de Bellver, unfortunately we didn't have time to tour the castle, we only got a brief glance of the perimeter before loading back on the bus to head to our next stop, downtown Palma.

We followed a circuitous route through town that exposed us to the primary shopping district, which no one was particularly interested in. The parking area for tour buses was a fair distance from the shops, so those among us with canes and walkers were faced with a round-trip walk of about 3/4 mile. What is a non-issue for most of us is an monumental struggle for some, and perhaps rating this as a "low intensity" excursion may not have been the most accurate description.

Catedral-Basilica de Santa-Maria de Mallorca

We trekked along with the crowd, my paramedic eye keeping a close watch on those who were not well-suited to the task. Fortunately I didn't have to pick anyone up from the ground! The walk, while a bit hot and unpleasant (thanks to the distraction of being concerned about the possibility of having to perform chest compressions at any minute...) was picturesque. 

The walk took us directly towards the Cathedral, which presented a stunning view across the lagoon. Construction began in 1229 and continued into the 17th century. Restoration work was overseen by Gaudi from 1903-1914 but was terminated due to disputes with the local authorities. The Cathedral boasts the second-largest Gothic rose window in existence, with a diameter of nearly 14 meters. The Cathedral is, understandably, the most popular tourist destination in Mallorca.

Street vendors were in semi-stealth mode all around, peddling counterfeit handbags and football (soccer) jerseys displayed on open tarps. As soon as someone spotted a police officer they would gather up the corners of their tarps and quickly walk away, often circling back to do it all again as soon as the officers passed.

We continued past the Cathedral (no time to go inside!) to a row of shops and cafés, where we purchased a few token souvenirs, then sat and enjoyed coffee, tea, and pastries while listening to uneducated Americans pontificate loudly about international politics. One individual was shocked to learn that Canada doesn't have a president and demanded to know if they were "some kind of dictatorship or something."

And people wonder why Americans are scoffed at by the international community.

After a sweaty walk back to the bus and a short ride to the ship we went to LocoFresh on Deck 14 for lunch. It was a bit crowded thanks to the recent return of multiple excursions, but we were lucky enough to find a couple who were just finishing their lunch who offered us the empty seats and their table. A crew member quickly came over and wiped down the table as we put our bags down. Loco Fresh offers a variety of Mexican dishes and everything we had was quite good. (Several steps above "useful.") When I returned to the table the same crew member overheard me asking my wife what she'd like from the bar and he insisted I take my seat while he located a bar waiter. At that point I made note of his name (Thatin) and sat back to observe his work flow, since it seemed he was everywhere and heard everything. This young man was a force of nature. He flowed from resupplying the toppings bar and condiments to cleaning tables, assisting guests, and answering questions for guests as they stood in line to place their order. He instigated all of the guest interaction (with a radiant smile) and earned a "thank you" from everyone he assisted. I hope Royal Caribbean recognizes what an asset this young man is and mentor him appropriately.

After lunch we returned to the cabin and enjoyed much-needed showers. Cooled and refreshed, we headed to Two70 to enjoy a couple of icy-cold libations and watch the sunset as we departed.