Amsterdam – Van Gough & Anne Frank

4 April, 2025

This morning Brent and I collected coffee and pastries from a shop across from the hotel that was filled to the margins with a huge assortment of scrumptious offerings. We had ham and cheese, plain, and chocolate filled croissants (not all at once!) and they were some of the best I've ever eaten. Purchasing them fresh from the bakery probably inflated the experience, but I'd love to have more. We had tickets to see the Kiefer exhibit with an entry time of 11:45. Not being familiar with the location, or the admission process, we gave ourselves a reasonable amount of time to get to the tram from the hotel on the front end, and from tram to museum on the back end. Our tram etiquette was vastly improved from the previous day and we managed to enter and exit properly, avoiding any notice from the tram attendant.

Self-Portrait Selfie

Navigating the multiple entry points to the museum proved to be much simpler than we had feared, so we were a bit early for our assigned time. Apparently the process functions with a fair bit of flexibility in order to accommodate the vagaries of transportation and tourists facing timing challenges. We checked with one of the numerous queue attendants and they directed us along to the entrance despite our early arrival. We took advantage of this extra time to scan the gift shop and fill our water bottles. The complimentary lockers are fascinating, especially for a geek such as myself. You select a locker, put your stuff inside (no backpacks in the exhibit) and then go to a digital console at the end of the row, where you put in your locker number and follow the prompts to secure your locker. When you return you can "find" your locker using a pictogram you selected during the locking process and your locker pops open. (If you have a need to visit your locker multiple times during the visit the system allows you to open and close without having to repeat the entire process.)

Having never heard of Kiefer I had no preconceived notions of what we were about to see, my only thought was that he spelled his name incorrectly - just like Kiefer Southerland (my wife's maiden name being Keifer.) As a general rule, if you're seeing an unfamiliar exhibit of any type, I highly recommend choosing an audio tour option if it's offered. Our tickets didn't provide access to the Van Gough exhibit (they were sold out) – so we didn't get to see Sunflowers or many other iconic Van Gough pieces, but there were a few noteworthy examples scattered throughout the Kiefer display. 

As far as Kiefer's work - it is absolutely massive. His studio is (quite literally) a warehouse. The inspiration of Van Gough is obvious, but Kiefer's work stands alone. I would not consider myself an overly-informed fan of art. I know what I like when I see it, and I have what would be considered a very respectable art collection by most, but I'm not one to talk about realism vs impressionism vs another-ism. I can't tell you who the greatest artist of a particular era was, or a particular style. I liked more of Kiefer's work than I didn't, and I absolutely loved several pieces. It was fascinating to observe from across the room, then approach, finally stopping just a few feet away, then moving from one end to the other and observing the work from oblique angles. A collection of Kiefer's sketches and notes from his early trips abroad were also on display, demonstrating his range of abilities from impactful postcard-sized pencil sketches to impressive oversized wall hangings. A retired art teacher was seated in front of some sketches, rendering her own iteration, which led to a short conversation. When I confessed my complete lack of artistic ability (claiming that my proficiency started and ended with stick figures) she encouraged me to "just draw" and "keep practicing" – pointing out that the purpose wasn't to create a masterwork, the purpose was to enjoy the process. Upon our return home I purchased a sketch pad and some pencils, intent on following her advice. (I've also pushed playing my guitar back up the list, something else I'm not very good at, but find enjoyable.)

We nearly triggered an international incident in our efforts to get a snack after seeing the exhibits. The restaurant kitchen closed just moments before we arrived, and the hostess informed us that we could choose from a selection of pre-maid sandwiches on the counter. We located a vacant table and went to the counter to select a sandwich. They were labeled with prices and descriptions, with a stack of plates sitting adjacent – clear indication of a self-serve situation. As we took a plate and reached for a sandwich a server swooped in and admonished us for our transgression, stating, rather emphatically, that she would serve us. After an apology and explanation she must have determined that we weren't miscreants intent on moral turpitude and softened considerably. While it wasn't the lunch we hoped for, the sandwiches were more than adequate to the need. The event was a gentle reminder to remember that sometimes light meals even require a bit of planning.

There was some confusion with respect to backpacks and storage at the Anne Frank House, so in an abundance of caution Brent and I ran back to the hotel and dropped off our backpacks and purchases while the ladies made their way towards the Huis. For the record, "regular" backpacks can be stored while you're touring the house, but suitcases and large backpacks cannot be accommodated. The tight space within the annex preclude carrying anything larger than a purse-like bag while participating in the tour.

If you would like to visit the Anne Frank Huis when you're visiting Amsterdam it requires a bit of  planning and forethought. Tickets are posted for sale six weeks in advance, and sell out rather quickly. On our first visit (2019) we naively thought we could buy tickets on the day of visit and were disappointed. I purchased our tickets on 18 February for this visit. We opted for the tour with Introduction program, which includes a small group presentation. Unless you're a bit of a scholar of Anne Frank I think you'll find the program worthwhile. I've read her diary and visited a concentration camp, which puts me well ahead of the average visitor, and I learned a considerable amount.

The self-guided tour is presented in three fundamental segments. You begin with background information, including how the Frank family came to be in Amsterdam and Otto Frank's position in the business community, as well as his efforts to obtain Visas so he could take his family to the United States. This leads up to the point that the family goes in to hiding in the Annex. Eventually eight people would share this austere space, hiding in plain sight from the Nazi patrols. As you move through the rooms of the annex and experience their size, then realize that there is no furniture on display, you begin to comprehend a little of what the hiders may have encountered. After you exit the Annex the exhibit addresses the discovery, arrest, and transportation of Anne and the others before moving on to filmed interview footage of Otto and those who helped support those who were in hiding.

I would characterize the visit as sobering, not unlike visiting a concentration camp, don't take it lightly and make sure you're mentally prepared for the endeavor.

As an aside, my wife had some difficulty with some of the stairs and decided to exit the tour before we reached the Annex. A young man by the name of Noa came to her rescue and ushered her to a comfortable seat in the café while she waited for the rest of us to complete our tour. He even provided her with a virtual tour on an iPad so she could complete the tour on her own.

Consensus before we ever departed on the trip was that we would likely need a mental escape after our Anne Frank tour so a reservation was made at Restaurant Ambassade (another TripAdvisor find.) I've since discovered that the Hotel Ambassade is a preferred lodging for everyone's favorite tour guide, Rick Steves. 

Let's just cut to the chase - don't hesitate if you're considering dining here. The service was excellent, the drinks were incredibly well-made, and the food was delightful. In deference to our host city I ordered a Genever Old Fashioned and Brent had the Dutch Manhattan (a bit of poetic license in that name, for certain.) The ladies ordered the Basil Smash, which turned out to be a recipe supplied by our waiter and was the overwhelming favorite of the table. In a stroke of added symmetry, the ladies had duck confit for their entrées while Brent had Steak Frites and I ended up with the most amazing Beef Bourguignon I've ever eaten. Dessert was equal to the dining experience and we departed sated, but not miserably full, which is always a good thing. While I try to always find new places in cities I'm less familiar with, this is a destination I wouldn't hesitate to visit regularly when visiting Amsterdam.