Rijksmuseum

 6 April, 2025

Guess where we started our day? A final visit to Bagels & Beans, where we savored the cappuccino and wondered when we might return for another, and would it be as good whenever that time comes?

After some preliminary packing the night before (after our early dinner) it appeared that the small duffel bag I procured would not be sufficient to the task, so I  was researching local luggage sources and contemplating the impact an additional checked item would have on our forward travel.

After finishing our coffees we collected our customary takeaway coffees and headed back to the hotel, deliveries in-hand. Plans this morning were to visit the Rijksmuseum and see the iconic artwork in their collection.

Rijksmuseum

The museum was just out of comfortable walking range for some of us, so we grabbed a quick Uber. Signage around the museum is sparse, and entrances are on both sides of the street that runs under the museum, so keep your wits about you and just pick the door with the shortest queue. Tickets have a 15 minute entry window, which is a bit flexible on the back-end but not so much on the front end. I highly suggest the optional audio tour, it is a great enhancement for the experience. 

Other than the "big" draws in the collection of paintings (van Gough, Rembrandt, and Pieneman) I truly had no expectations of what we might see. I didn't know if it was just art (but suspected not) or more along the lines of the Victoria & Albert Museum with some iconic paintings mixed in (but hoped not.) I was pleasantly surprised to discover an art-weighted collection filled primarily with paintings and augmented by items of particular interest with artistic or cultural significance. For example, a box of opium wrappers guaranteeing both the quality and quantity of the contents from the Dutch East Indies after private trade was banned and a Government-regulated monopoly was implemented. Placed in the context of paintings of the region it added context to the exhibit.

The museum crowd wasn't excessively dense, but there were a few bottlenecks. We were able to see all of the iconic works with minimal hassle, and discovered some fascinating pieces from artists with names we recognized, but didn't know they were artists. It seems that Amsterdam has a preference for using artist's names for streets rather than past political or military leaders. Our hotel was on Albert Cuypstraat, named for Aelbert Cuyp (1620-1691) who painted amazing landscapes. The van Gough self-portrait with Grey Felt Hat was getting attention, but not what I expected. It made me wonder where other museum visitors came from – this is one of THE van Gough paintings. As I write this it is the banner image on the van Gough Museum web page "Five things you need to know about van Gough's Self-Portraits"  – it is THAT iconic, and most people were strolling past without more than a casual glance. As I've said before, I'm far from an authority on art, but seeing this piece from inches away reveals the amazing combination of color and brush-stroke that form the final work, and it is jaw-dropping. I don't understand how he did it, but I can understand and appreciate how complex the work was to produce the result.

The Battle of Waterloo

The Battle of Waterloo by Jan Willem Pieneman is a massive painting, just over 18.5 feet tall and 27 feet long, and the largest in the Rijksmuseum collection. Other than the sheer enormity of the painting in both scope and scale, I'm left to wonder how all the elements were pulled together to tell the story of Napoleon's final defeat. Pieneman spent three years doing studies, largely in London (including the Duke of Wellington's horse) and working on the painting itself. After completion it was displayed in Hyde Park in a purpose-built pavilion and remained there for almost a year. The lighting and detail in this painting is staggering, I can't begin to comprehend the effort required to select the subjects, their placements, and dispositions in order to convey the story.

The Night Watch

The crown jewel of the Rijksmuseum is The Night Watch, a commissioned work portraying a company of civic militia guards. While a layer of dark varnish gave the impression that the painting portrayed a night scene, subsequent cleaning and preservation has shown that the event took place during the day. Over the years the painting has been vandalized numerous times, put away for safekeeping, and moved during renovations at the Rijksmuseum. At some point in the past the edges of the painting were trimmed. The missing pieces have since been restored with the use of artificial intelligence. The varnish coating protected it from several vandalism attempts. For the last several years it has been housed in a dedicated glass-walled room undergoing cleaning and restoration in full view of the public. New lighting techniques have been implemented and the entire canvas is being mapped layer by layer, and pigment by pigment. The subtle symbolism embedded in the painting is mind-boggling and yet another reason the audio tour is a valuable asset during your visit.

We were in need of some refreshment when we left the museum and zipped around the corner to Brasserie Zuiderbad for sandwiches. This family-run cafe turns out some amazing, yet simple, sandwiches along with top-notch french fries. Service was quick, the chairs were comfortable, and ticket times were short. If you find yourself in the neighborhood and want a quick, affordable bite to eat, don't overlook them.

After refueling I embarked on a suitcase search in the neighborhood of The Pantry while everyone else strolled a few blocks back to the hotel. I hopped on the tram for a few stops and located the shop I earlier identified using The Google. I identified several viable options in the size range I was interested in, unfortunately the one I was most drawn to exceeded the investment I wanted to make to resolve our space shortage. I was able to find a sturdy example at a more reasonable price point and whisked off back to the hotel to finish packing for our Monday departure.

We had dinner reservations, but we were all running out of gas and opted to try the neighborhood Italian bistro just across from the hotel. Small and rustic, the epitome of a local favorite in almost any city you care to name. We enjoyed generous and tasty salads as well as delicious pasta and some nice wine. While the meal was simple and uncomplicated, it was absolutely perfect. 

We wandered back to the hotel and put the final touches on our packing. Lourie and I were on KLM the next day to Munich. KLM has a generous luggage policy, but I knew I was going to be on the hook for an additional checked bag. When I completed our online check in I was thrilled to discover that a significant discount was offered if you pre-paid for any excess luggage. When will U.S. carriers catch up with the Dutch in this regard?

Amsterdam – ronddwalen

5 April, 2025

A day with nothing specific on the agenda, just ideas. Brent and I started with what we can now call our tradition of coffee at Bagels & Beans. There's something to be said for being able to sit and chat over a nice cup of coffee without any pressure, and it's a pleasure that comes all to rarely in modern society. 

After enjoying our first cup we obtained coffees to go and headed back towards the hotel by way of the bakery to procure more croissants for this morning and next, since they wouldn't be open on Sunday.

Delft

A walk to the tram stop later we were on our way to grab a freshly made Stroopwafel from vanWonderen, who we discovered on our previous trip, but in a different location. Unfortunately we did not have the same experience and were quite disappointed. Options were significantly restricted as compared to our last visit and the product was sloppily made and outrageously over-decorated with toppings. I'm afraid we won't be back and I can no longer endorse them as I previously did, as their focus has obviously changed from producing excellent product to maximizing the flow of customers through the shop. Given the abhorrent layout of the shop even referring to the movement of customers as "flow" is a complete misnomer.

Blume Markt

Our next destination was the Blume Markt, since a trip to the tulip fields had not been factored in to our timeline and we had been informed that it was best to allocate the better part of a day for the round trip. On our way to the Markt we encountered a Delft store, which became a brief shopping detour just yards from our planned destination.

Purchases completed, and laden with shopping bags, we ventured on to the Blume Markt. I had expectations of rows and rows of stalls filled to overflowing with fresh flowers and vibrant colors. While there were rows and rows of stalls filled to overflowing, and there were vibrant colors, and even some fresh flowers, the vast majority of stalls were filled with kitsch and tourist knick-knacks. Most of the flowers were plastic or dried and the colors ranged from striking to pale. 

There were bags upon bags of tulip bulbs and, much to our amusement, a large display of Venus Flytraps for sale. Venus Flytraps occur naturally only within a 62 mile radius of our hometown, so to find propagated varieties for sale 4,100 miles away elicited a chuckle. (Note - If you find yourself in the bogs of southeastern NC be aware that collecting wild plants is a felony.) Having been thoroughly underwhelmed we moved on to the next stop, Stephen & Penelope Fine Yarns. A tram ride and a short walk found is in a vibrant shopping area standing in front of a shop while the ladies surveyed the inventory. After a short wait the "husband bench" inside the store emptied, so we moved out of the wind to wait. 

We had an early reservation for dinner at The Pantry (another TripAdvisor find) and arrived to small dining room absolutely packed to the gills. In most places you had to turn sideways and shimmy past tables.

The Pantry is known for "traditional home-made Dutch dishes" and offer an assortment of options assembled in prix-fixe menus as well as a full range of a la carte selections. Some of us ordered one of the prix-fixe menus and others chose to go a la carte.

None of us were disappointed in our selections.

The food was excellent and the service was quite good, but the atmosphere is what sets this place apart. The staff implements a team methodology, so food is delivered by whomever is available when it's ready to leave the kitchen. This invites interaction with a cross-section of staff instead of just your server, which leads to some inter-table chatter, which builds an atmosphere of gathering and togetherness, as opposed to just sitting in a restaurant full of people who all happen to be eating a meal at the same time.

When we departed there was quite a queue on the sidewalk waiting for a table. As I exited I made offers to the line to sell our recently vacated seats, to the great amusement of the hostess - which speaks even more to the conviviality we experienced. If you're looking for flashy or elegant, this isn't your spot. If you're looking for authentic, lively, and friendly then you'll have a wonderful experience.

Amsterdam – Van Gough & Anne Frank

4 April, 2025

This morning Brent and I collected coffee and pastries from a shop across from the hotel that was filled to the margins with a huge assortment of scrumptious offerings. We had ham and cheese, plain, and chocolate filled croissants (not all at once!) and they were some of the best I've ever eaten. Purchasing them fresh from the bakery probably inflated the experience, but I'd love to have more. We had tickets to see the Kiefer exhibit with an entry time of 11:45. Not being familiar with the location, or the admission process, we gave ourselves a reasonable amount of time to get to the tram from the hotel on the front end, and from tram to museum on the back end. Our tram etiquette was vastly improved from the previous day and we managed to enter and exit properly, avoiding any notice from the tram attendant.

Self-Portrait Selfie

Navigating the multiple entry points to the museum proved to be much simpler than we had feared, so we were a bit early for our assigned time. Apparently the process functions with a fair bit of flexibility in order to accommodate the vagaries of transportation and tourists facing timing challenges. We checked with one of the numerous queue attendants and they directed us along to the entrance despite our early arrival. We took advantage of this extra time to scan the gift shop and fill our water bottles. The complimentary lockers are fascinating, especially for a geek such as myself. You select a locker, put your stuff inside (no backpacks in the exhibit) and then go to a digital console at the end of the row, where you put in your locker number and follow the prompts to secure your locker. When you return you can "find" your locker using a pictogram you selected during the locking process and your locker pops open. (If you have a need to visit your locker multiple times during the visit the system allows you to open and close without having to repeat the entire process.)

Having never heard of Kiefer I had no preconceived notions of what we were about to see, my only thought was that he spelled his name incorrectly - just like Kiefer Southerland (my wife's maiden name being Keifer.) As a general rule, if you're seeing an unfamiliar exhibit of any type, I highly recommend choosing an audio tour option if it's offered. Our tickets didn't provide access to the Van Gough exhibit (they were sold out) – so we didn't get to see Sunflowers or many other iconic Van Gough pieces, but there were a few noteworthy examples scattered throughout the Kiefer display. 

As far as Kiefer's work - it is absolutely massive. His studio is (quite literally) a warehouse. The inspiration of Van Gough is obvious, but Kiefer's work stands alone. I would not consider myself an overly-informed fan of art. I know what I like when I see it, and I have what would be considered a very respectable art collection by most, but I'm not one to talk about realism vs impressionism vs another-ism. I can't tell you who the greatest artist of a particular era was, or a particular style. I liked more of Kiefer's work than I didn't, and I absolutely loved several pieces. It was fascinating to observe from across the room, then approach, finally stopping just a few feet away, then moving from one end to the other and observing the work from oblique angles. A collection of Kiefer's sketches and notes from his early trips abroad were also on display, demonstrating his range of abilities from impactful postcard-sized pencil sketches to impressive oversized wall hangings. A retired art teacher was seated in front of some sketches, rendering her own iteration, which led to a short conversation. When I confessed my complete lack of artistic ability (claiming that my proficiency started and ended with stick figures) she encouraged me to "just draw" and "keep practicing" – pointing out that the purpose wasn't to create a masterwork, the purpose was to enjoy the process. Upon our return home I purchased a sketch pad and some pencils, intent on following her advice. (I've also pushed playing my guitar back up the list, something else I'm not very good at, but find enjoyable.)

We nearly triggered an international incident in our efforts to get a snack after seeing the exhibits. The restaurant kitchen closed just moments before we arrived, and the hostess informed us that we could choose from a selection of pre-maid sandwiches on the counter. We located a vacant table and went to the counter to select a sandwich. They were labeled with prices and descriptions, with a stack of plates sitting adjacent – clear indication of a self-serve situation. As we took a plate and reached for a sandwich a server swooped in and admonished us for our transgression, stating, rather emphatically, that she would serve us. After an apology and explanation she must have determined that we weren't miscreants intent on moral turpitude and softened considerably. While it wasn't the lunch we hoped for, the sandwiches were more than adequate to the need. The event was a gentle reminder to remember that sometimes light meals even require a bit of planning.

There was some confusion with respect to backpacks and storage at the Anne Frank House, so in an abundance of caution Brent and I ran back to the hotel and dropped off our backpacks and purchases while the ladies made their way towards the Huis. For the record, "regular" backpacks can be stored while you're touring the house, but suitcases and large backpacks cannot be accommodated. The tight space within the annex preclude carrying anything larger than a purse-like bag while participating in the tour.

If you would like to visit the Anne Frank Huis when you're visiting Amsterdam it requires a bit of  planning and forethought. Tickets are posted for sale six weeks in advance, and sell out rather quickly. On our first visit (2019) we naively thought we could buy tickets on the day of visit and were disappointed. I purchased our tickets on 18 February for this visit. We opted for the tour with Introduction program, which includes a small group presentation. Unless you're a bit of a scholar of Anne Frank I think you'll find the program worthwhile. I've read her diary and visited a concentration camp, which puts me well ahead of the average visitor, and I learned a considerable amount.

The self-guided tour is presented in three fundamental segments. You begin with background information, including how the Frank family came to be in Amsterdam and Otto Frank's position in the business community, as well as his efforts to obtain Visas so he could take his family to the United States. This leads up to the point that the family goes in to hiding in the Annex. Eventually eight people would share this austere space, hiding in plain sight from the Nazi patrols. As you move through the rooms of the annex and experience their size, then realize that there is no furniture on display, you begin to comprehend a little of what the hiders may have encountered. After you exit the Annex the exhibit addresses the discovery, arrest, and transportation of Anne and the others before moving on to filmed interview footage of Otto and those who helped support those who were in hiding.

I would characterize the visit as sobering, not unlike visiting a concentration camp, don't take it lightly and make sure you're mentally prepared for the endeavor.

As an aside, my wife had some difficulty with some of the stairs and decided to exit the tour before we reached the Annex. A young man by the name of Noa came to her rescue and ushered her to a comfortable seat in the café while she waited for the rest of us to complete our tour. He even provided her with a virtual tour on an iPad so she could complete the tour on her own.

Consensus before we ever departed on the trip was that we would likely need a mental escape after our Anne Frank tour so a reservation was made at Restaurant Ambassade (another TripAdvisor find.) I've since discovered that the Hotel Ambassade is a preferred lodging for everyone's favorite tour guide, Rick Steves. 

Let's just cut to the chase - don't hesitate if you're considering dining here. The service was excellent, the drinks were incredibly well-made, and the food was delightful. In deference to our host city I ordered a Genever Old Fashioned and Brent had the Dutch Manhattan (a bit of poetic license in that name, for certain.) The ladies ordered the Basil Smash, which turned out to be a recipe supplied by our waiter and was the overwhelming favorite of the table. In a stroke of added symmetry, the ladies had duck confit for their entrées while Brent had Steak Frites and I ended up with the most amazing Beef Bourguignon I've ever eaten. Dessert was equal to the dining experience and we departed sated, but not miserably full, which is always a good thing. While I try to always find new places in cities I'm less familiar with, this is a destination I wouldn't hesitate to visit regularly when visiting Amsterdam.

Farewell Hervor, Hello Amsterdam!

3 April, 2025

Farewell, Viking

Another amazing feature of a Viking river cruise is the disembarkation process. The prior evening a list is distributed with cabin numbers and their planned/scheduled time to depart. The poor souls in one cabin were scheduled to leave at 4:30 in the morning to catch their flight. Since we were going to an Amsterdam hotel we  had the luxury of leaving the boat at 9:30, after enjoying a final breakfast with Sylva. We vacated our cabin in a timely fashion in order to give our steward as much time as possible to prepare for the next round of cruisers. The ability to actually enjoy breakfast and disembark in a leisurely manner is much less abrupt than being herded down the gangway and searching for your luggage before queuing to go through customs.

Sir Albert Hotel

The air was cool, the wind was brisk, and our driver was tardy. Other drivers indicated that traffic was exceptionally congested and everyone was having issues. Our driver arrived about 20 minutes later than expected, which didn't create any problems since we didn't have plans until 14:00. With the luggage loaded up we made our way to our hotel in the Oude Pijp neighborhood. The Sir Albert is a quirky property with a friendly and efficient staff. Both of our rooms had water closets and shower closets with lighting tied to the vanity area, which made it difficult to shower without disturbing someone who was still sleeping. Given my habit of rising early and going on walkabout in search of coffee and noshes this little glitch was a bit of an annoyance.

Heavenly Cappuccino

After depositing our luggage at the hotel we were in need of snacks. The Google informed us that there was a shop a couple of blocks away by the name of "Bagels & Beans" and we went in search of coffee. We were warmly greeted by a waiter when we entered and invited to select a table. We ordered our coffees and some pastries while we investigated the GVB app and figured out the optimal choice for getting around the city over the next several days. (The app is pretty straightforward, but we all experienced periodic glitches when the readers would put our phones in ApplePay mode when trying to "tap" in or out and lock everything up, forcing an app restart. Just keep an eye on things - we had no trouble scanning our screens.) Our waiter delivered MASSIVE cups of coffee, and I must say it was the absolute best cappuccino I have ever had. I returned a few more times during our visit to confirm it wasn't a fluke.

Canal Tour

We walked from Bagels & Beans to the tram stop in plenty of time to make our scheduled canal tour at 14:00. When the tram arrived we followed other passengers on, through the wrong door. Of all the public transit systems I've ridden in a dozen cities on three continents this is the first time I've ever encountered one that had entry and exit doors. I suggest looking for signage in order to avoid the wrath of the tram conductor!

We arrived at the appointed location ahead of schedule and waited, wondering if it was actually the right spot - all the markers matched our instructions, but one never knows. Just before 14:00 a young man wearing a shirt emblazoned with the tour company logo approached us from the sidewalk and confirmed we were in the correct spot, and said the boat should be along shortly. Great relief!

Two more couples joined us just before our Flagship Amsterdam boat arrived. We boarded and enjoyed a two hour-ish trip around the canal system. During the cruise we enjoyed a conversational overview of the history and traditions of the canals (and saw dozens and dozens of recreational boaters enjoying the spectacular weather) all without getting bogged down. Our captain (who was Dutch) and our host (who was American) kept us entertained and informed while answering nearly all of the questions any of us could ask. Shamefully I did not take good notes and failed to record their names, which is a fault that I need to focus on in the future.

After our cruise we set off to walk several blocks to Zeppos Cafe, where we had a dinner reservation at 17:00. A couple of shops caught our attention along the way, but we still managed to arrive a few minutes early and the hostess seated us immediately. The atmosphere is a bit eclectic, and the menu is a mix of reliable choices such as salads and burgers, sprinkled among more interesting selections including guinea fowl and limberg-style asparagus with ham. Everyone gave their meals high praise, the service was of the highest caliber, and the value was quite good. Kapatein Zeppos easily earned a spot on my list of Amsterdam restaurants for future consideration. Another solid TripAdvisor discovery.

Scenic Sailing – Kinderdijk

2 April, 2025

Another morning of scenic sailing on our way to Kinderdijk means plenty of time for breakfast and getting a head-start on packing. Fortunately we're going from the Hervor to a hotel in Amsterdam, so we don't have to concern ourselves with weight distribution among the suitcases. Our Viking experience has been so amazing we decided to plan another cruise and took advantage of the promotion offered to current passengers. If you haven't sailed with Viking, be prepared - their offer is outrageously attractive! Deposits are reasonable and payment terms are much more flexible than those offered online. The most difficult part of the process was figuring out which itinerary we wanted to choose.

We made a stop on the way to offload a group for an excursion before continuing downriver towards Kinderdijk. 

Kinderdijk

There's not much better way to relax than cruising along on a sunny day with a drink in your hand. It happened to be coffee, since we had an excursion planned later in the day.

The village of Kinderdijk is home to nineteen windmills surviving from 1738-1740. The area was declared a protected site in 1993 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997.

The windmills are still functional, but the area is not reliant upon them for water control. A series of electric  pumps now handle required pumping activities. 

Final sunset...

Our excursion included a ride aboard the Jantina, a 125-year-old vessel that has been restored to carry passengers to the Blokker Windmill. Viking contributed a significant portion of the funds required to make her seaworthy again. Our visit included a detailed tour from the Miller, a young lady who had just passed her final examination the week prior. She demonstrated the complete functionality of the windmill and showed us the (snug) living quarters as well. The weather was absolutely spectacular, just a little windy.

We departed Kinderdijk and enjoyed a bit more time relaxing in the lounge with drinks while reflecting on the amazing experience of the past week. We have definitely become fans of Viking River Cruises. 

Köln (Cologne)

1 April, 2025

Köln

In an effort to minimize the number of steps required for the day we met up with the fine folks from Rikolonia for a ricksha tour and overview of central Cologne. After suffering significant damage from Allied bombing in World War II much of the central city is new construction, with buildings of particular significance undergoing reconstruction for preservation.

Downtown (Innenstadt) is a charming area with a distinct "Old World" feel and cobblestone streets, filled with pubs, shops, and hotels. Our guide covered almost the entire area, including the shop for the original producer of Kölnisch Wasser  (Water from Cologne) Giovanni Marina Farina, who mixed his first formulation in 1709. 

Apfelkuchen

The streets of downtown run primarily in a grid pattern, but maps can be confusing due to the pedestrian thruways that give the impression of dead-ends. The area is easily walkable and if you should get turned around and lose your way, nearly everyone speaks excellent English and are more than happy to help you get back on track.

Our tour of the Cologne Cathedral was scheduled for mid-afternoon and we found ourselves with a fair bit of time on our hands, so we located a café for coffee and snacks. As luck would have it, there was a spot with a display case filled with an overwhelming selection of baked items. The assortment was so varied and dynamic that you ordered from the case and not your table. We had a slice of Apfelkuchen mit streusel (Apple cake with streusel) that was just heavenly. Apfelkuchen is much closer to American apple pie than our apple cake, and this was one of the best uses of apples in baked goods that I've ever tasted. My cappuccino was quite good as well, but apparently my German was not up to snuff as the waitress insisted on speaking English.

A "Behind the Scenes" tour of the Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) was a late offering on our cruise and happened to fit our schedule perfectly. I cannot begin to express our good fortune in booking this outing. Our guide was one of the best guides we've ever had, anywhere, on any topic. He holds a PhD and knew the cathedral down to the last detail, but he was also witty and relatable, so he was both interesting and entertaining.

Our tour was well-paced and provided several opportunities to sit for a few minutes. the "behind the scenes" aspect afforded us entry to the altar and a more direct view of the Shrine of the Three Kings. As far as churches go, of all shapes, sizes, and descriptions, the Cologne Cathedral is one of the most impressive we've visited, and that list includes the Sagrada Familia, St Peter's Basilica, Westminster Abbey, and St Paul's Cathedral. 

Shrine of The Three Kings

The cathedral was completed in 1880, after 632 years of construction. When it was completed it was the tallest building in the world and it is still the third tallest church in the world, and the tallest two-spired church. The height of the towers are within 3cm of each other and the massive towers give it the largest façade of any church in the world. 

After our tour we went to the tourist information center across the square and purchased postcards and stamps. They have comfortable seats, with desks, and will even loan you a pen if you don't have one. When you finish writing your postcard (which seems to get more difficult each time, due to our reliance on electronic communication these days) the post box is just outside the door.

Our evening consisted of a traditional German dinner at a beer hall, with plenty of Kölsch, followed by visits to two other beer halls for more Kölsch.

There are specific traditions and regulations pertaining to both the production and consumption of Kölsch. In order to be called Kölsch it must be produced within 50km of Cologne (Köln) and must be brewed in adherence to the German Purity Law, or Reinheitsgebot . This protects the Kölsch brand, just as Champagne must be produced in the Champagne region of France.  

Kölsch is served in a tall, thin, 200ml (about 7oz) cylindrical glass, called a Stange. Servers, called Köbes roam the beer hall carrying a round tray called a Kranz (wreath) that holds eleven or twelve glasses. When you're drinking Kölsch you only have to order the first one. After that the server will replace an empty glass with a full glass (in a practiced motion, snagging the empty with two fingertips while delivering the full glass onto the coaster.) Then they'll add a tic mark to the border of the coaster. If you want to take a break, just place your coaster on top of your empty glass. When you're ready to pay your tab the Köbes will tally up the tic marks on your coaster and calculate your bill. 

Scenic Cruising – Castles and Koblenz

31 March, 2025

Boozy Hot Chocolate

The 40 mile stretch of the Rhine between Bingen and Koblenz is home to more than 28 castles, strategically placed for defensive advantage or to control commerce along the river. The oldest castle dates from 966 and the newest from 1371. Several castles are nothing but ruins, a few are private residences, and several are hotels, hostels, or a combination. 

We approached the first castle of the series around 9:30 in the morning and arrived at the last castle just before 12:30. The views were spectacular and the weather was absolutely frigid. In addition to our coats, hats, scarves, and gloves, we were supplied with heavy blankets and provided some amazing boozy hot chocolate to steel ourselves against the elements.

Stolzenfels Castle

The southern terminus of the Middle Rhine is the Niederwald Monument, featuring a statue of Germania, located in Rüdesheim. The northern terminus is the Deutches Eck, or German Corner, in Koblenz, with a statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I. Between these two endpoints is a huge rock, made famous in a story about Lorelei, a jilted young lover who leapt to her death and became a siren, luring sailors to their deaths.

Lorelei

In hindsight, I would have taken a photo of each castle's entry in the guide Viking provided as we approached. This would have made cataloging photos much easier, because the photos in the brochure, taken from different angles, can diverge wildly from photos taken from the river.

Many or most, if not all, of the castles share a similar narrative that can be summarized as "The castle was built, it was burned by the French, then it was rebuilt."

Katz Castle

The scenery was spectacular and the weather cooperated all morning, despite a forecast for intermittent showers. Very few people managed to hold on from end to end, but other than a brief restroom break, Brent and I passed every kilometer on deck.

After passing the last castle, which wasn't long before we arrived in Koblenz, we retreated inside to thaw our hands and feet while we charged phones and gathered our QuietVoxes (Voxi? Voxen?) and water bottles in preparation for an afternoon in the Mosel Valley tasting a bit of wine.

Terraced Vineyard

We met our guide at the end of the gangway and after a brief introduction we took a short walk to our waiting (Viking-branded) bus. As we drove out of town we were provided a history of the town and the development of the wine industry in the valley. We drove along the Mosel (French, Moselle) River for several miles, observing the steep terraced vineyards, which are considered some of the most labor-intensive in the world. While they do provide more direct sun exposure to the vines, the increased costs and risks generated by the geography are contributing to their steadily declining contribution to the annual production. The vast majority of the grape production comes from the hillside vineyards overlooking the village, easily accessed by a series of paths that emerge from between the houses and snake over the hillside. 

Winningen

After driving through the bottom of the valley we went to the top of the valley, adjacent to the local airfield. From here we could survey the vineyards surrounding the village of Winningen, which is home to a dozen or so boutique wine producers. The majority of the wineries have passed from generation to generation, with some sold to new families from time to time. The consistent factor among all the wineries is personal involvement and direct knowledge of the grape from bud to
harvest.

Our final stop was at Winegut Weyh, where Peter provided an informative briefing on the history of his winery as well as the challenges they face as small producers in an environment of rising labor costs. Peter invited us in to his tasting room where we sampled several wines, all of which were well done. (This is where it's important to distinguish between good wine and bad  wine vs. wine that you like and wine you don't like.) While all of the wines Peter poured for us were technically quite good, I didn't particularly care for a couple of them, while I would have arm wrestled you over several.

Peter is a gracious and knowledgable host with a relaxed style. If you find yourself in the area of Winningen I give my highest recommendation for a visit. We boarded our bus to return to Koblenz and learned more about the town and the unification of Germany (not the reunification in 1990, the first one, in 1871) under Kaiser Wilhelm. If you visit the Dutches Eck be aware that the current statue is a replacement, erected in 1993. The original was destroyed by artillery fire in 1945 and the pedestal remained vacant for 48 years.

Brent seeing how he measures up

Speyer & Rüdesheim, Germany

30 March, 2025

Cruising the Rhine

A slow Sunday with scenic cruising in the morning was quite enjoyable. We were able to linger over breakfast, discuss the news of the day, and work on some crosswords.

We made a stop in Worms for an excursion to disembark for a tour of Speyer (they would meet us later in the day when we arrived in Rüdesheim) but that didn't interrupt our relaxation. Having a "sea morning" on the river was really quite amazing after a couple of days of activity. We were scheduled to arrive in Rüdesheim around 4:00 pm and just had plans to walk around and explore the town, so there was no urgency at all to the day. We did a bit of advanced planning and obtained tickets for the Kiefer exhibit at the Van Gough Museum and the Rijksmuseum for our upcoming visit to Amsterdam.

There was a presentation in the lounge on the making of  Rüdesheimer Kaffee (strong coffee mixed with bandy and sugar, topped with whipped cream) which was a big hit. The recipe is definitely being added to my personal book of libation recipes.

When we arrived at Rüdesheim we went for a stroll around town just to see what was about. Unfortunately on Sunday most everything was closed. We did stumble across an antiques shop where the ladies were able to procure not only Rüdesheimer Kaffee cups, they also found spoons. The shop-keeper was severely lacking in bags, so he wrapped them in newspaper and placed them in a well-worn fabric bag. Miraculously we managed to keep the bag intact long enough to get it back to the boat.

St Jakobus

We discovered a cozy side street, lined with shops and restaurants. In other circumstances this would be the perfect place to eat dinner and linger over glasses of wine well into the evening. Describing it as idyllic falls short of the charm and energy of this village of 10,000 people. There are multiple museums to occupy the large numbers of tourists who visit each year in search of Riesling.

I'm confident that I could keep myself adequately entertained with wine and not have to concern myself with the museums.

The timing of our stop was unfortunate, given everything this area has to offer (especially for those of us who are fans of good wine.) Perhaps we can return one day under different circumstances and explore the area more thoroughly, along with other places we discovered on the trip.

We returned to the boat in time for dinner, procuring a table out on the Aquavit Terrace. In homage to the area we selected a Riesling from the wine list that turned out to be absolutely luscious. The "house wine" for the evening included another Riesling which was also tasty, but the one we selected was a bit sturdier and held up much better against the food. In a display of his good nature our favorite waiter agreed to pose with the bottle. As I understand, Sylva joined the boat with us in Basel. I'm not sure what his background in the service industry is, but his thoughtfulness and attention to detail while maintaining a cool head under pressure will take him as far as he would like to go. He is truly a gem, we would be delighted to encounter him on a future Viking cruise.

Strasbourg, France

29 March, 2025

Strasbourg

Strasbourg is home of one of only four trams in the world that cross an international border, and the second of the group that we've encountered on this trip. It's amusing to cross an imaginary line and have the signs and announcements instantly change from one language to another.

Strasbourg is a charming city, classically French and filled with boulangeries, cafés, restaurants, and magasins, all punctuated by a massive cathedral. As is the case with any town that attracts a large number of tourists, it also has it's share of miscreants and hooligans, so keep your wits about you and your personal items secure. Beware of people in the square trying to "give" you flowers – they'll either shake you down for a ridiculous price, refusing to take it back after you accept it, or they'll use the negotiations as a distraction while their counterpart relieves you of your property. The same warning applies to the Dollar General Disney impostors strolling around posing for photos, they're almost always working the area with thieves. If you keep a sharp eye you may also spot others working the crowd as they tag likely marks.

Strasbourg Cathedral

The cathedral is absolutely stunning. When it first comes in to full view you will likely spend the first few minutes just tracing the structure with your eyes. Construction began in 1015 and was completed in 1439. It was the tallest building from 1647 (when the spire of St. Mary's Church, Straslund burned down) until 1874 when St. Nikolai's Church in Hamburg was completed. The rose window in the west front is 14 meters in diameter, making it one of the largest in the world.

Rose Window

After you've taken in the front façade I strongly recommend checking out the interior of the cathedral. There is no admission fee to enter, but donation boxes are placed throughout the interior of the Cathedral. Other than the stunning stained glass in the rose window and at the altar the most compelling feature is the astronomical clock in the south transept. The first version was installed in 1352 and remained until 1500. The second iteration was started in 1547, but then construction was delayed when the Cathedral was handed over to the Roman Catholic Church. Construction continued in 1571 and after completion it functioned until 1788. The present clock was built between 1837 and 1842. The 18m tall clock shows everything from the time and moon phase to the position of the 1,022 stars viewed above Strasbourg as identified by Ptolemy. If you want to see everything in movement you should be there at 12:30 any day except Sunday.

If you're so inclined the Musée de l'Œuvre-Notre-Dame is just across the square on the south side of the Cathedral. It is filled with artifacts from around the city with a focus on the Cathedral and includes several 3-D virtual reality exhibits that allow you to see missing portions of the archives as well as "stand" near the top of the spire. Museum admission is just a few Euros per person and if you're interested in more details of Cathedral construction and you have the time it's probably worth the investment. Free lockers are provided for backpacks and bags.

Grande Île, Strasbourg

After the museum we took a leisurely stroll towards the tram, stopping at a boulangerie for croissant and macaroons, then continuing across the canal (where we stopped for several photos.) A few blocks away we boarded the tram for a short ride back to Germany and the Viking Hervor.

We arrived back on the boat with ample time to freshen up for dinner, which we enjoyed on the Aquavit Terrace with Sylva. With a late start the next day we stretched our evening for a few more hours, enjoying drinks and the piano entertainment.

Breisach, Germany – Colmar

28 March, 2025

Briesach, Germany

We docked in Briesach, Germany sometime in the early morning hours. A small town (16,500 inhabitants) on a hill overlooking the river, it has been German and French several times throughout the course of history, thanks to the advantageous position it occupies. A wedding occurred the morning we were there and some of our fellow cruise passengers may or may not have ended up in some of the photos.

Colmar Watering Can House

Today we changed plans at the last minute and split up to take different excursions. Some went on the Colmar Pocket excursion, visiting the museum in the town of Colmar as well as the Memorial on Hill 351 before visiting the Audie Murphy Memorial. We boarded a Viking-branded tour bus, which was absolutely immaculate. Everyone had their QuietVox units ready to go (one of the most brilliant inventions, ever, for tour groups!) and we were off. Our tour guide had done a tremendous amount of prep work, as evidenced by the books she distributed with maps, photos, and narratives of the region and the various battles. Unfortunately her spoken narrative was largely focused on her personal life and experiences. While I appreciate the benefit of anecdotes when you're weaving a story together for your listeners, there are limits, and she exceeded those limits by a wide margin. The contingent that opted for the Colmar-centric tour reported that the pace was relaxed, the information was largely educational and not anecdotal, and there was a tram option for those who preferred less walking. The village of Colmar is simply charming, and it seems as if the storks are nesting on every elevated flat surface they can find. The storks are protected, so if they choose to build a nest all you can do is wait for them to vacate after they move on. The prevalence of stork nests made me wonder, if storks deliver babies then who delivers stork babies? 

Colmar

The Colmar Pocket itinerary started at the museum. Growing up with grandparents who fought in WW-II and having older acquaintances who fought, were captured, and spent time in German prison camps, I've always had an interest in both the European and Pacific theaters of the war. I was familiar with Audie Murphy, but had no idea where he performed his heroics, and Colmar was a complete unknown. Over the years I've read numerous books on the topic and visited a concentration camp.

When it comes to WW-II the only thing more impactful than seeing actual Nazi artifacts first-hand was my visit to Dachau. Uniforms, equipment, and documents with insignia of all types was a bit unsettling. They weren't reproductions worn by actors for entertainment, these were genuine items, drawing the reality of 80 years ago to the present. 

21 Corps Monument

Following our visit to the museum we went to the American 21 Corps Monument on Hill 351. This hill was a German stronghold and gave a commanding view for miles, allowing them to direct artillery and mortar fire with deadly accuracy on anyone attempting to mount an attack. The Allies suffered over 21,000 casualties in the Battle of Colmar Pocket, which is staggering when compared to the 10,000 casualties they suffered on D-Day. Coming on the heels of the Battle of the Bulge, the Colmar is generally considered the most overlooked European military offensive of World War II. Audie Murphy is the most well-known hero of the Battle of Colmar Pocket. At age 19 Lt Audie Murphy single-handedly killed or wounded fifty German soldiers while defending his unit. He became the most decorated combat soldier in WW-II and most highly decorated US soldier in history when he was awarded 33 separate commendations for his actions. From his biography at Arlington National Cemetery:

"On January 26, 1945, near the village of Holtzwihr in eastern France, Lt. Murphy's forward positions came under fierce attack by the Germans. Against the onslaught of six Panzer tanks and 250 infantrymen, Murphy ordered his men to fall back to better their defenses. Alone, he mounted an abandoned, burning tank destroyer and, with a single machine gun, contested the enemy's advance. Wounded in the leg during the heavy fire, Murphy remained there for nearly an hour, repelling the attack of German soldiers on three sides and single-handedly killing 50 of them. His courageous performance stalled the German advance and allowed him to lead his men in the counterattack which ultimately drove the enemy from Holtzwihr. For this, Murphy was awarded the Medal of Honor, the United States' highest award for gallantry in action."

Site of Murphy's Defense

Audie Murphy lied to enlist in the Army, providing a fake date of birth. By the time victory was declared in Europe he wasn't even 21 years old. The Audie Murphy memorial consists of an American flag, a small wall, and a set of placards. I saw his movie when I was younger, and knew he had performed incredible feats in battle, but I never knew where.

Another point of history mentioned in the periphery (as an American, anyway) was the Maginot Line. After World War I France embarked on the construction of a line of defenses intended to prevent any future invasion by Germany. These defenses consisted of a line of subterranean forts and interconnected bunkers along the eastern border of France, with the greatest concentration along the border with Germany. We passed several Maginot bunkers during our travels across the French countryside.

Maginot Bunker

Special Requests

 

I submitted a "Special Services" request last week for a mattress topper for our upcoming Caribbean cruise. As you may recall from our trans-Atlantic experience, the beds on Odyssey are excessively firm, even for someone who can sleep on a hardwood floor without padding. I was delighted when I received a confirmation yesterday that our request was confirmed. All that's left now is to decide where we want to eat the night before embarkation.