Speyer & Rüdesheim, Germany

30 March, 2025

Cruising the Rhine

A slow Sunday with scenic cruising in the morning was quite enjoyable. We were able to linger over breakfast, discuss the news of the day, and work on some crosswords.

We made a stop in Worms for an excursion to disembark for a tour of Speyer (they would meet us later in the day when we arrived in Rüdesheim) but that didn't interrupt our relaxation. Having a "sea morning" on the river was really quite amazing after a couple of days of activity. We were scheduled to arrive in Rüdesheim around 4:00 pm and just had plans to walk around and explore the town, so there was no urgency at all to the day. We did a bit of advanced planning and obtained tickets for the Kiefer exhibit at the Van Gough Museum and the Rijksmuseum for our upcoming visit to Amsterdam.

There was a presentation in the lounge on the making of  Rüdesheimer Kaffee (strong coffee mixed with bandy and sugar, topped with whipped cream) which was a big hit. The recipe is definitely being added to my personal book of libation recipes.

When we arrived at Rüdesheim we went for a stroll around town just to see what was about. Unfortunately on Sunday most everything was closed. We did stumble across an antiques shop where the ladies were able to procure not only Rüdesheimer Kaffee cups, they also found spoons. The shop-keeper was severely lacking in bags, so he wrapped them in newspaper and placed them in a well-worn fabric bag. Miraculously we managed to keep the bag intact long enough to get it back to the boat.

St Jakobus

We discovered a cozy side street, lined with shops and restaurants. In other circumstances this would be the perfect place to eat dinner and linger over glasses of wine well into the evening. Describing it as idyllic falls short of the charm and energy of this village of 10,000 people. There are multiple museums to occupy the large numbers of tourists who visit each year in search of Riesling.

I'm confident that I could keep myself adequately entertained with wine and not have to concern myself with the museums.

The timing of our stop was unfortunate, given everything this area has to offer (especially for those of us who are fans of good wine.) Perhaps we can return one day under different circumstances and explore the area more thoroughly, along with other places we discovered on the trip.

We returned to the boat in time for dinner, procuring a table out on the Aquavit Terrace. In homage to the area we selected a Riesling from the wine list that turned out to be absolutely luscious. The "house wine" for the evening included another Riesling which was also tasty, but the one we selected was a bit sturdier and held up much better against the food. In a display of his good nature our favorite waiter agreed to pose with the bottle. As I understand, Sylva joined the boat with us in Basel. I'm not sure what his background in the service industry is, but his thoughtfulness and attention to detail while maintaining a cool head under pressure will take him as far as he would like to go. He is truly a gem, we would be delighted to encounter him on a future Viking cruise.

Strasbourg, France

29 March, 2025

Strasbourg

Strasbourg is home of one of only four trams in the world that cross an international border, and the second of the group that we've encountered on this trip. It's amusing to cross an imaginary line and have the signs and announcements instantly change from one language to another.

Strasbourg is a charming city, classically French and filled with boulangeries, cafés, restaurants, and magasins, all punctuated by a massive cathedral. As is the case with any town that attracts a large number of tourists, it also has it's share of miscreants and hooligans, so keep your wits about you and your personal items secure. Beware of people in the square trying to "give" you flowers – they'll either shake you down for a ridiculous price, refusing to take it back after you accept it, or they'll use the negotiations as a distraction while their counterpart relieves you of your property. The same warning applies to the Dollar General Disney impostors strolling around posing for photos, they're almost always working the area with thieves. If you keep a sharp eye you may also spot others working the crowd as they tag likely marks.

Strasbourg Cathedral

The cathedral is absolutely stunning. When it first comes in to full view you will likely spend the first few minutes just tracing the structure with your eyes. Construction began in 1015 and was completed in 1439. It was the tallest building from 1647 (when the spire of St. Mary's Church, Straslund burned down) until 1874 when St. Nikolai's Church in Hamburg was completed. The rose window in the west front is 14 meters in diameter, making it one of the largest in the world.

Rose Window

After you've taken in the front façade I strongly recommend checking out the interior of the cathedral. There is no admission fee to enter, but donation boxes are placed throughout the interior of the Cathedral. Other than the stunning stained glass in the rose window and at the altar the most compelling feature is the astronomical clock in the south transept. The first version was installed in 1352 and remained until 1500. The second iteration was started in 1547, but then construction was delayed when the Cathedral was handed over to the Roman Catholic Church. Construction continued in 1571 and after completion it functioned until 1788. The present clock was built between 1837 and 1842. The 18m tall clock shows everything from the time and moon phase to the position of the 1,022 stars viewed above Strasbourg as identified by Ptolemy. If you want to see everything in movement you should be there at 12:30 any day except Sunday.

If you're so inclined the Musée de l'Œuvre-Notre-Dame is just across the square on the south side of the Cathedral. It is filled with artifacts from around the city with a focus on the Cathedral and includes several 3-D virtual reality exhibits that allow you to see missing portions of the archives as well as "stand" near the top of the spire. Museum admission is just a few Euros per person and if you're interested in more details of Cathedral construction and you have the time it's probably worth the investment. Free lockers are provided for backpacks and bags.

Grande Île, Strasbourg

After the museum we took a leisurely stroll towards the tram, stopping at a boulangerie for croissant and macaroons, then continuing across the canal (where we stopped for several photos.) A few blocks away we boarded the tram for a short ride back to Germany and the Viking Hervor.

We arrived back on the boat with ample time to freshen up for dinner, which we enjoyed on the Aquavit Terrace with Sylva. With a late start the next day we stretched our evening for a few more hours, enjoying drinks and the piano entertainment.

Breisach, Germany – Colmar

28 March, 2025

Briesach, Germany

We docked in Briesach, Germany sometime in the early morning hours. A small town (16,500 inhabitants) on a hill overlooking the river, it has been German and French several times throughout the course of history, thanks to the advantageous position it occupies. A wedding occurred the morning we were there and some of our fellow cruise passengers may or may not have ended up in some of the photos.

Colmar Watering Can House

Today we changed plans at the last minute and split up to take different excursions. Some went on the Colmar Pocket excursion, visiting the museum in the town of Colmar as well as the Memorial on Hill 351 before visiting the Audie Murphy Memorial. We boarded a Viking-branded tour bus, which was absolutely immaculate. Everyone had their QuietVox units ready to go (one of the most brilliant inventions, ever, for tour groups!) and we were off. Our tour guide had done a tremendous amount of prep work, as evidenced by the books she distributed with maps, photos, and narratives of the region and the various battles. Unfortunately her spoken narrative was largely focused on her personal life and experiences. While I appreciate the benefit of anecdotes when you're weaving a story together for your listeners, there are limits, and she exceeded those limits by a wide margin. The contingent that opted for the Colmar-centric tour reported that the pace was relaxed, the information was largely educational and not anecdotal, and there was a tram option for those who preferred less walking. The village of Colmar is simply charming, and it seems as if the storks are nesting on every elevated flat surface they can find. The storks are protected, so if they choose to build a nest all you can do is wait for them to vacate after they move on. The prevalence of stork nests made me wonder, if storks deliver babies then who delivers stork babies? 

Colmar

The Colmar Pocket itinerary started at the museum. Growing up with grandparents who fought in WW-II and having older acquaintances who fought, were captured, and spent time in German prison camps, I've always had an interest in both the European and Pacific theaters of the war. I was familiar with Audie Murphy, but had no idea where he performed his heroics, and Colmar was a complete unknown. Over the years I've read numerous books on the topic and visited a concentration camp.

When it comes to WW-II the only thing more impactful than seeing actual Nazi artifacts first-hand was my visit to Dachau. Uniforms, equipment, and documents with insignia of all types was a bit unsettling. They weren't reproductions worn by actors for entertainment, these were genuine items, drawing the reality of 80 years ago to the present. 

21 Corps Monument

Following our visit to the museum we went to the American 21 Corps Monument on Hill 351. This hill was a German stronghold and gave a commanding view for miles, allowing them to direct artillery and mortar fire with deadly accuracy on anyone attempting to mount an attack. The Allies suffered over 21,000 casualties in the Battle of Colmar Pocket, which is staggering when compared to the 10,000 casualties they suffered on D-Day. Coming on the heels of the Battle of the Bulge, the Colmar is generally considered the most overlooked European military offensive of World War II. Audie Murphy is the most well-known hero of the Battle of Colmar Pocket. At age 19 Lt Audie Murphy single-handedly killed or wounded fifty German soldiers while defending his unit. He became the most decorated combat soldier in WW-II and most highly decorated US soldier in history when he was awarded 33 separate commendations for his actions. From his biography at Arlington National Cemetery:

"On January 26, 1945, near the village of Holtzwihr in eastern France, Lt. Murphy's forward positions came under fierce attack by the Germans. Against the onslaught of six Panzer tanks and 250 infantrymen, Murphy ordered his men to fall back to better their defenses. Alone, he mounted an abandoned, burning tank destroyer and, with a single machine gun, contested the enemy's advance. Wounded in the leg during the heavy fire, Murphy remained there for nearly an hour, repelling the attack of German soldiers on three sides and single-handedly killing 50 of them. His courageous performance stalled the German advance and allowed him to lead his men in the counterattack which ultimately drove the enemy from Holtzwihr. For this, Murphy was awarded the Medal of Honor, the United States' highest award for gallantry in action."

Site of Murphy's Defense

Audie Murphy lied to enlist in the Army, providing a fake date of birth. By the time victory was declared in Europe he wasn't even 21 years old. The Audie Murphy memorial consists of an American flag, a small wall, and a set of placards. I saw his movie when I was younger, and knew he had performed incredible feats in battle, but I never knew where.

Another point of history mentioned in the periphery (as an American, anyway) was the Maginot Line. After World War I France embarked on the construction of a line of defenses intended to prevent any future invasion by Germany. These defenses consisted of a line of subterranean forts and interconnected bunkers along the eastern border of France, with the greatest concentration along the border with Germany. We passed several Maginot bunkers during our travels across the French countryside.

Maginot Bunker

Special Requests

 

I submitted a "Special Services" request last week for a mattress topper for our upcoming Caribbean cruise. As you may recall from our trans-Atlantic experience, the beds on Odyssey are excessively firm, even for someone who can sleep on a hardwood floor without padding. I was delighted when I received a confirmation yesterday that our request was confirmed. All that's left now is to decide where we want to eat the night before embarkation.

Viking Hervor

27 March, 2025

We enjoyed a nice breakfast and discussed the best options for our transfer to the pier. Brent was up and about early and took the tram to the pier and scouted out the situation. We decided that a taxi would be much more civilized than wrestling luggage down the sidewalk and on the tram, and the front desk quickly arranged for a suitable van to pick us up at noon, which happened to be check-out time for the hotel and the beginning of check-in for our cruise. Our cab arrived at the appointed time, our luggage was loaded (a bit of a challenge thanks to a bit of shopping) and we were off to the St Johann pier.

Upon our arrival we were greeted by Elizabeth, our Program Director. She checked our names off her list and corralled our luggage to be transferred from curbside to our cabins. We were directed down a small set of steps, then down the gangway and to the left when we entered the reception lobby, where we would be given our stateroom keys.

All Aboard!

After a brief stop for photos we were on the boat, and the check-in process consisted of checking our passports and handing over our keys. We were informed that our cabins were ready and our luggage should be delivered momentarily. In just over thirty minutes time we were completely unpacked, suitcases stowed, and off to explore our home for the next week.

Brent and I made our way to the bar while the ladies dealt with some finer organizational details. We surveyed the available spirits and developed a strategy before opting to start things off with a nice glass of beer. Iro (ee-roh) the bartender introduced himself, we introduced ourselves in turn, and our cruise vacation began in earnest. Take note that you don't get your beer in just any glass, it is presented to you in a proper glass. We took a couple of sips and proceeded to the bow to continue our exploration. Given the mild temperatures the Aquavit Terrace was open to the outside, which creates an enticing space. We went up to survey the top deck and then claimed a seat at one of the tables on the bow to sip our beer and simply relax.

Cheers!

Those who booked the Viking pre-cruise extension were touring Basel, as were many who had just arrived. We opted for a relaxing afternoon after our previous day in the city, so we stayed on the boat.

Our wives joined us about the time we finished our first beers, and we sat in the fresh air enjoying the anticipation of all the experiences before us in the coming days. Although nothing was spoken, I think this is about the time we came to realize that this couples vacation "thing" was going to be quite different than previous trips, but in a wonderful way. We had another beer (maybe two?) and migrated inside as the shadows began to grow longer and groups began returning from their excursions.

Brent and I shifted gears from beer to scotch for a pre-dinner libation and we returned to our cabins to freshen up a little before dinner. I will say that as much as we loved our Viking experience, dinner in the main dining room was our least favorite aspect of the trip. The gentleman serving wine was keen to push the "house pours" and we were more interested in selecting a wine that paired with our meals. We practically had to wrestle a wine list from him, and then it was equally difficult to order a bottle. After the second night in the main dining room we avoided it the rest of the trip if at all possible and had amazing service from our waiter Sylva on the Aquavit Terrace.

Farewell, Basel

In the early evening the lines were cast off and our longboat pivoted in the channel to head north (downriver) to our first stop. We passed through three sets of locks on the first night, and not altogether cleanly! I think our arrival in the second lock was the boat-wobbling event that startled me from a sound sleep. As someone who grew up on the water my initial thought was that we had run aground, but fortunately that wasn't the case.

Basel – Cheese & Chocolate

26 March, 2025 

When we began our initial planning we thought we would fly to Zurich, spend a couple of days, then go to Basel on the morning of departure. As our flight planning progressed and we discovered that flying directly to Basel was significantly more economical our focus shifted. Brent's current employer is based near the Black Forrest, less than 70km as the crow flies, so he was in possession of a rudimentary knowledge of the general area. But the details remained a mystery to us all. Google Maps is an amazing tool, but you can only learn so much from maps and photos, so once again I turned to TripAdvisor.

With zero knowledge of the area I leaned heavily on posted reviews and location. We didn't have a docking location for our Viking longboat, so I used the information I could find online to come at an average location. Armed with all of that information I started comparing prices and features of hotels in the category that suited us. Hotel Gaia rose to the top of the list and they offered attractive rates for a pre-paid stay, so I booked them and hoped for the best. 

Breakfast Room

Upon arrival the front desk staff displayed Swiss efficiency, checking us in to our rooms quickly and presenting our Basel Cards (an excellent tourist perk!) before giving us the layout of the hotel. The property is architecturally quirky, but not in a Escherian way. Every area we observed on the way up to our room was spotless, walls were clean and carpets were fresh. Signage was in excellent repair and decor was thoughtful and nicely presented. We shuttled luggage up to our rooms using the lift, opened the door to our room, and entered what can only be described as an exceptional accommodation. 

Our "Gorgeous Junior Suite" was not "Junior" by our standards and left me wondering what a "Regular" Suite looked like! Coming in the door you are faced with the bathroom, which was immaculate and appointed with some of the most lush towels I've ever seen in my life. My wife was concerned about the height of the tub, but that often happens in European hotels. A large sitting area was adjacent to the bathroom, and the king-sized bed faced the sitting area. A large flat-panel TV hung on a swivel mount above a desk along the wall between the sitting area and the bed, with a large closet (replete with safe) near the foot of the bed. When I went over to examine the closet I discovered the SECOND bathroom, with step-in shower! (Worries about the height of the tub immediately evaporated...) 

To reiterate - our "Junior" suite came with king size bed, sitting area, desk, and TWO full bathrooms. I was absolutely gobsmacked. The amenities were equal to the quality of everything else we encountered, the water pressure was phenomenal, and the hot water was ample. 

The next morning, despite jet lag, I awoke rested and (fairly) energized, only to be equally shocked when I entered the breakfast room. A beautiful space, tended by friendly and attentive staff, with an assortment of delicious items and EXCELLENT cappuccino. There are croissant almost as big as your head, fresh scrambled eggs and sausages, cereals, yogurts, fruits, juices, more pastries, jams, butters – with vegan and gluten-free options aplenty.

The breakfast staff is as friendly, attentive, and efficient as the front desk staff. I am absolutely stunned at our good fortune with the choice of this hotel. It's enough to make me look for a reason to return to Basel in the future.

To get us out and about, and in an effort to overcome jet lag as quickly and easily as possible, we booked an outing through Tours of Switzerland on Trip Advisor. We chose Basel's Cheese, Chocolate, and Local Pastry Tasting Private Tour for a couple of reasons. First, our group has some mobility challenges, and we didn't want to feel rushed, nor like we were slowing others down. Second, all four of us have the capacity to see something that grabs our interest and stop or wander off, so we wanted the freedom to adapt on the fly. Jonas, our guide, made it seem as if everything we wanted to do was part of his plan. As we strolled along (and it was quite literally a stroll, Jonas didn't urge us along a single time) Jonas filled the walk with a steady stream of conversation and information. No lectures on medieval conquests and inane detail on which feudal lord overthrew another one – just history to provide context and understanding, and inspire a quest to know more. We started with an introduction to the Basel tram system. It's a simple hop-on, hop-off system, monitored by random ticket inspectors. The cost for locals is affordable, and if you're a hotel guest your pass is included with your Basel Card, which also provides discounts on entry fees at museums and the zoo, among other sites. LED panels indicate the endpoint of the line the tram is on, so navigating is as simple as finding your destination on the map, then figuring out which direction you need to go on which line. Then it's just a matter of getting off at the right place. The Basel tram is the only system in the world that services three countries (France, Switzerland, and Germany) and one of only four in the world that cross an international border. 

We took the tram to the Marktplatz (Market Plaza) and strolled up the hill to our first stop at Gilgen, an amazing bakery that's been around for just under 100 years, housed in a couple of 13th century buildings. In the pre-Easter season we were treated to a wall filled with chocolate bunnies that defies description. Signs proclaim "No Self Service" (In German, a reminder that just because you can't read a sign doesn't mean you should ignore it – break out your translation app and figure things out, the locals will be impressed with your initiative.) The chocolate work is detailed and delicate, and the wall changes seasonally. I'd love to see the Christmas display. Jonas introduced us to the local treat, Basler Läckerli (translates to "Basel Delicious") a spice biscuit created in Basel sometime in the 14th century. There are several large-scale producers, but family recipes have been handed down for generations. We're currently in the process of gathering recipes so we can make our own, if that gives you an idea of how tasty it is. The danger of Gilgen is tailoring your purchases to your travel situation. Your eyes and mouth say "buy it all" but unless you're driving a delivery truck you may face difficulty. 

We continued on towards the primary focus of our tour - cheese and chocolate!

Shamefully none of us took very good notes due to our travel induced haze. I can tell you that if you ever see an Appenzeller that has been aged for six months, try it! We tasted 8 or 10 cheese variants, different styles of cheese and different ages of the same cheeses. I've met very few cheeses I don't like, and these were no exception. Jonas explained the style the various cheeses were made in and the changes in the attributes imparted by the aging process. After the cheese we moved on to chocolate, with a similar treatment – but more focus on the variation in process and how it effects the flavor profile of the chocolate. What a wonderful, and tasty, education! 

Jonas delivered us back to the hotel and bid us safe travels. Thankfully we had a couple of hours to recharge before dinner, which was a great relief on many levels, but not before a quick trip down the street to a yarn shop!

The tram delivered us just a couple of blocks from Taverne Johann, which is a restaurant we found on TripAdvisor. We arrived on time for our reservation and were given a long table near the back of one of the dining rooms. We all enjoy good food, and usually take photos to share with family. One of our collective sons is a trained chef and the other two sons are pretty serious amateur chefs, so we like to show them what we're describing. 

 I have two photos from our meal - the wine bottle and a dessert. Not because they were the only things photo-worthy, quite the opposite. Because everything else was so tempting, and so amazing, that we completely forgot to catalog anything until the end. (Hence the dessert photo...) 

 Local, farm-to-table, unique, delicious – how much can I say without being redundant? Venison meatballs, duck, amazing ice creams. They focus on "slow food" (as opposed to mass-production suppliers) so the menu is dynamic. If you're visiting Basel put this at the top of your list. 

I would go back again without hesitation. The service was as good as the food. Need I say more? This is a place to savor and linger. If you're in a rush, perhaps you should go elsewhere, otherwise get comfortable and enjoy a magnificent experience.

The walk back to the tram stop was refreshing and we headed back to the hotel to make sure our luggage was in order to transfer to our Viking longboat in the morning. We were glad we made the decision to spend our pre-cruise time in Basel instead of Zurich.

Bahnhof Basel

Planning

I've been researching flights for our 2026 Alaska trip for several weeks, and the airlines should release our dates in the coming week. We have an Air BnB lined up for our time in Vancouver, so our flights are the last piece of the puzzle.

Our New Year's 2026/2027 cruise will largely be a repeat of our upcoming Caribbean cruise (logistically speaking) so planning for that has already been worked out, so that is simply a matter of time.

The "Big 60 Birthday Bash" with Viking River Cruises is still in flux, and over two years out - plenty of time to determine our flights to Budapest and our return arrangements from whichever city we decide to depart from (Munich appears to be most likely, but Prague is an option.)

In the meanwhile we consider other possible adventures. Northern Lights? Antarctica? A Christmas Market river cruise? A Trans-Pacific cruise? Backpacking by train in Europe? Something entirely different? The Scottish Highlands and Ireland are on our list - but certainly don't fit any of the previous mentioned travel methodologies (except the train, on a limited basis.)

Long London Layover

25 March, 2025

All the times I've landed at Heathrow I'm fairly certain I can count the number of times I have NOT been in a holding pattern on one hand with several fingers left over.

Lucky Photo

This was no exception. As I was watching the racetrack patterns replicate on my flight path display I glanced out the window and captured a shot I've never been able to grab before. As the old saying goes, I'd rather be lucky than good any day – this image was nothing but luck.

After a couple of more laps around the circuit we had descended to the bottom of the stack and were cleared to land. We touched down about 30 minutes behind schedule and my cell phone lit up as we taxied to the gate. Julia and Brent were making their way to the American Arrivals Lounge, just a few minutes ahead of us. With the luxury of time in our pocket we took a few extra minutes to make sure our bags were organized before heading up the jetway to the terminal. 

London Fog

 We wound our way through Terminal 3, through passport control, and up the elevator to the Arrivals Lounge. If you ever have reason to take advantage of this space I highly recommend it. There is comfortable seating, a wide selection of food and beverage to choose from, and shower facilities if you're heading into the city to an imminent meeting or if you just want to freshen up before continuing on to the next phase of your journey. Based on the length of our layover and the majority of my prior red-eye flight experiences (I tend to sleep rather warm and arrive in need of a wash) I made plans to shower on arrival. By some stroke of either miracle or luck I was none the worse for wear from my pre-departure shower and decided to forego the process.

We gathered around a table and caught up on the previous two weeks or so, enjoyed some snacks, a fair bit of coffee, and a lot of water to catch up from eight or so hours in a pressurized metal tube. We charged devices and made a plan for our relocation to Terminal 5 for our afternoon flight on to Basel. Passengers can transfer between terminals via a bus system (crowded and uncomfortable, but convenient) or using the Heathrow Express (much less crowded, much more comfortable, but less convenient.) Assuming time isn't a concern, if you are dealing with more than a backpack or shoulder bag and/or you're in a group larger than two then the Heathrow Express is less stress-inducing. There's more walking, but it's almost exclusively over open, flat, smooth, surfaces. The buses usually involve a few steps, cramped spaces, and standing. 

BA Club Europe Lounge

We made our way to Terminal 5 and back through security after having our  British Air boarding passes re-printed; the originals would not scan to allow us  through the turnstiles. As the most electronic-laden member of our party I was surprised that my backpack wasn't selected for additional screening. In the early days of residue swabbing (pre-9/11) I was "randomly selected" every time I flew out of SFO, without fail. With my assortment of power cords, outlet adapters, power banks, and USB cables of every description I assumed it would take me longer. Ironically I was the first out. We strolled down the concourse, past Fortnum and Mason and WH Smith, making note to return to both on our way to the gate.

The various First/Business Class lounges in Terminal 5 are in a stack near the south end of the concourse. Signage is ambiguous and you'll encounter gatekeepers who will direct you to the proper place. If you're a Club Europe customer be warned that you may be met with an edge of condescension as you're directed up additional levels. After going through this process I think I know how Rapunzel felt.

In a crowded lounge we lucked out and were gifted a table by passengers preparing to depart. By now we we had a bit more of an appetite, so we augmented our coffee and water with fruit, pastries, and some random offerings from the buffet.  After a few more hours, and after a second wind, we left the lounge to take care of our required shopping. We had a specific request for biscuits from F&M, and I was in need of chocolate and sport mix from WH Smith. The difference in quality between convenience store candy in the UK vs in the USA is simply staggering. Properly supplied (well, as "properly" as I could manage given the room we had to carry things) we waited for our gate to be posted, then made our way to the other end of the concourse to board our flight. The jetway was so long I was sure we were going to emerge in Bath, if not Swansea.

France or Switzerland (background)?

I've reported on the travesty that is BA Club Europe in part of my Rome post, so I'll not repeat myself here, other than to say the seating has not improved. The service was excellent and afternoon tea was quite nice, but a bit of comfort would have been appreciated.

When we arrived in Basel our trek from the gate to the main terminal was only slightly shorter than the jetway at Heathrow. We were pushing up against 20 hours of travel and everyone was a bit punchy and physically drained. We collected our luggage, where we encountered another "first" – I've never arrived at an airport that afforded you a choice of passport control. The Basel airport nearly straddles the border of France and Switzerland, so they provide two exits, depending upon your destination. 

After collecting a passport stamp we exited and found our Transfeero driver waiting for us. A short walk across two lanes of traffic (without having to dodge a single vehicle) had us at his van. We climbed in as he loaded our luggage and whisked us off to our hotel. I booked our transfer on Viator – a source I have found to be highly reliable for well over a decade. For those interested in searching, it is titled "Arrival Private Transfer: EuroAirport (BSL MLH EAP) to Basel in Luxury Van" and at the time of writing the link can be found here.

Our driver was exceptionally kind to his travel-weary passengers. At times like this the subtle touches can have huge impact. A smooth ride, considered conversation, pleasant background music, and an easygoing demeanor. We arrived quickly, safely, and conveniently to the front door and our luggage was placed in the foyer as we registered. The lack of urgency was wonderful.
 

In die Schweiz gehen

24 March, 2025

(Going to Switzerland)

"The" message

It all started innocently enough, a simple text exchange one summer afternoon. The idea took root over the next couple of weeks, an itinerary was selected and deposits made. In the blink of an eye we were looking at flight arrangements and hotels, travel insurance, annual weather trends, and things to do before and after the cruise.

This was monumental for us. We'd been together almost 40 years and had never vacationed with anyone other than family for more than two or three days at a time. The idea of taking a trip to Europe with good friends for three weeks was equally exciting and scary. 

Julia and I have known each other since fifth grade at Tileston School, two years longer than I've known my wife (who I met in seventh grade.) The three of us graduated high school together, then Brent and I were at NCSU at the same time, but never met. Careers and growing families kept us separated until our late 30's when we reconnected while planning a class reunion. Since then our friendship has grown far beyond anything I might have imagined. Together we've seen children married, grandchildren born, parents die, and been incredible support systems in times of life-threatening illness. We all communicate incredibly well. Always kind, but open and honest – often discovering that we were thinking the same thing before the conversation even started. Our concerns ended up being mutual, and discussing them at the outset obviated them entirely.

To the Airport!

Planning gives me great satisfaction. Assembling an itinerary and organizing the specifics of what's going on when provides a dopamine release. I'm pretty sure it's related to a primitive urge to make lists. Assembling lists from lists provided by others and then editing them down to a master itinerary was pure bliss.

We studied flights of every permutation we could conceive. Multiple departure cities, arrival cities, dates (on both ends) – you name it, we probably considered it. Ultimately we booked an itinerary that had both of us departing home within an hour of each other and meeting at JFK to continue the trip, ultimately arriving in Basel (not Zurich) BUT with an eight hour layover in London. Considering the tickets were Business Class for 57,500 miles and $22.70 in fees each, the time investment in London (which came with lounge access) was trivial. More direct/time efficient itineraries were double the miles and 20x the fees. 

As the saying goes "No plan survives first contact with the enemy" and our plans were not immune. A couple of weeks before departure I was informed that our flights had been changed and we'd miss the connection in JFK, putting us in London several hours behind Brent & Julia. 

After several hours unsuccessfully wrangling the American Airlines website ("You can make changes on our website" was never a less accurate statement.) I ended up on the phone, which was only slightly less painful. Ultimately we wer re-booked to London via Charlotte, with a slightly earlier departure from home, arriving at Heathrow just ten minutes later than our original flight.

Other than a small glitch at check-in (the phone rep I spoke with did not, as she stated "have everything fixed") which was handled quickly and efficiently by the agent with a short phone call, our flights were uncomplicated and service was excellent.

The Admiral's Club in Charlotte was packed, but we secured comfortable seats to wait out our two hour layover before heading to our gate for boarding. We departed in a rain shower and enjoyed a mostly-smooth flight all the way to London.

Everyone even managed a bit of sleep.